Need help resurrecting TAXI

(Topic ID: 224301)

Need help resurrecting TAXI


By bkaelin

83 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 56 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 12 days ago by PinballManiac40
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

  • Taxi Williams, 1988

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There are 56 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 83 days ago

Got a Taxi, fresh off the boat.
Converted to 120 power
Swapped out the acid-damaged main board with Rottendog board that I have used and tested before.
Checked, replaced and installed correct fuses on auxiliary power board, power board, etc..
Checked under playfield for obvious shorts and problems
When I power it up with all of the connectors attached, it runs quickly through some menu items, then appears to reboot, then repeats, and never goes into attract mode.
When I remove the J10 connector on the auxiliary power board, it goes into attract mode, but wont do much else. When I try to start a game, it says a ball is missing and that is about all.
See videos. Any help would be much appreciated.

Taxi power up with the all of the connectors attached.
. Taxi power up with J10 disconnected from the auxiliary power board #1
Taxi power up with J10 disconnected from the auxiliary power board #2

#2 83 days ago

Disconnect j-14 from the cpu and retest.

#3 83 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Disconnect j-14 from the cpu and retest.

I reconnected J10 on the auxiliary board, and disconnected J14 from the cpu.
Result: Game goes into attract mode now. When I try to start a game, it says pinball missing....just like the third video.
What does it mean?
thanks in advance!

#4 83 days ago

I realize there may be multiple issues here...
one related to booting and moving into attract mode,
and one related to the missing pinball.
and who knows what else...

#5 83 days ago

For the scrolling issue in audit screen, be sure you have the correct wiring connections at j13 and j14. 20180829_212349 (resized).jpg

#6 83 days ago

First thing is that one of the coin door switches is stuck on. That is why it went into ad mode. Disconnecting j-14 disconnects the switches. The second issue is that it thinks a ball is missing because you dont have the correct number of balls installed or that a switch is bad not sensing the ball.

#7 83 days ago
Quoted from bkaelin:

I realize there may be multiple issues here...
... one related to the missing pinball.

Do you have two balls in the game? Are switches #12&11 (trough) working?

#8 83 days ago

So if the switches at J14 are disconnected, does that account for why the test buttons won't work?

On the other issue,
Two balls in the game.
I found a broken switch wire in the trough, so I will address that, and post back.

#9 83 days ago

Take care of that wire and you should be able to start a game.

#10 83 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Take care of that wire and you should be able to start a game.

What about the test buttons not functioning?

#11 83 days ago

As Pinballmaniac40 was saying, do you have j-13and j-14 switched around? If they're correct then you will have to do some trouble shooting later on the coin door switches. But for now it should play games with them disconnected.

#12 83 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

As Pinballmaniac40 was saying, do you have j-13and j-14 switched around? If they're correct then you will have to do some trouble shooting later on the coin door switches. But for now it should play games with them disconnected.

Bingo! The J13 and J14 connectors were reversed!
Thanks so very much for the clarification GRUMPY, and Pinballmaniac40, and that picture really helped.

Now I just need to fix that switch!

#13 83 days ago
Quoted from bkaelin:

Now I just need to fix that switch!

Easy peasy lemon squeezy!!

Play ball!

#14 82 days ago

Can you post a picture of the original MPU? I sure would like to see how bad the battery corrosion is on it. If it is not too bad then, it may be worth saving.

#15 77 days ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Can you post a picture of the original MPU? I sure would like to see how bad the battery corrosion is on it. If it is not too bad then, it may be worth saving.

will do asap.

Tonight I totally rebuilt the drop target assemblies, along with one pop bumper. All of the coils need new sleeves, so that is my next thing, along with the other two pops.

#16 77 days ago

Also, I replaced the trough switch and the game starts up! Yeah! All of the switches are working, but the coils all need new sleeves, and of course there are a bunch of plastics that need replacing.

#17 77 days ago

Oh, and I have some GI bulbs out on the right side....

#18 77 days ago

and the jackpot display is dead...

#19 76 days ago

Haha...4 updates every 4 hours. Funny.

#20 73 days ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Can you post a picture of the original MPU? I sure would like to see how bad the battery corrosion is on it. If it is not too bad then, it may be worth saving.

Hey PinballManiac40, here are some pics of the board. What do you think? I'm hoping it is fixable/worth fixing.

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#21 73 days ago

That's junk. It might be fixable if the value of your time and effort is zero.

If you want to try and fix it read through this thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terrybs-guide-to-repairing-alkaline-battery-damage

#22 73 days ago
Quoted from bkaelin:

What do you think? I'm hoping it is fixable/worth fixing.

That is ugly.

#23 73 days ago

Uhh...damn!! I was hoping it was some minor damage. One could fix it, but it will take a lot of time and parts. I already have 2 others to work on like that.

Maybe put in a wanted to buy ad for a working System 11B MPU with NO battery corrsoion. Maybe you will get lucky. I personally would stay away from the Rottendog MPU board. Those have a mind of their own.

If you find one, then I would resell this one.

#24 73 days ago
Quoted from bkaelin:

Now I just need to fix that switch!

Did you get that trough switch working and you're playing this Taxi now?

#25 72 days ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Did you get that trough switch working and you're playing this Taxi now?

Actually, yes, and thanks to everyone for the advice.
It is working now, and the restoration is coming along really well.
I have to figure out why the jackpot display isn't working.
Would it be safe to swap out the jackpot display with the working jackpot display in my other Taxi?
I don't want to fry anything, but if it is safe, I could start to narrow down the problem.
This is a fun system 11 BTW. I dig it.

#26 72 days ago

Have you tried swapping out the ribbon cable for the Jackpot display with the one from your other taxi? Or put the non working display into the known good game (unless thats what you meant - i assumed you meant putting good display into project game...)

Taxi is great. One of my fav Sys 11’s.

#27 72 days ago
Quoted from bkaelin:

Actually, yes, and thanks to everyone for the advice.
It is working now, and the restoration is coming along really well.
I have to figure out why the jackpot display isn't working.
Would it be safe to swap out the jackpot display with the working jackpot display in my other Taxi?
I don't want to fry anything, but if it is safe, I could start to narrow down the problem.
This is a fun system 11 BTW. I dig it.

In my experience the jackpot display is almost always outgassed, you can swap your working on in to confirm but its going to need a new glass.

#28 69 days ago

I swapped the display into the working game, and the display didn't work, so it must be dead.
Anyone know where I can find a new one?
thanks!

#30 69 days ago

That's nice, but I would have to replace all of the displays, right?

I found this: https://ksarcade.net/williams-7-digit-numeric-display-c-8364-1.html
which I think would do the trick.

#31 68 days ago

Just get a 7 digit replacement tube and change it. Pb resource has them Marco has them bay area amusements has them. They have gotten a little pricey over the years tho.

#32 68 days ago
Quoted from bkaelin:

That's nice, but I would have to replace all of the displays, right?
I found this: https://ksarcade.net/williams-7-digit-numeric-display-c-8364-1.html
which I think would do the trick.

$85 (w/o shipping) just for a single 7 digit plasma display. Wow! That is pricy. You could resell the 16 digit main display for at least $120 and that would offset the LED display set from Marco, assuming you like how the LED displays look. I have a couple of LED displays and I like them since I don't have to worry about the high voltage burning out on the power supply on top of the LED displays will last years. Guess it depends on if you want to keep the game original as possible or not.

#33 68 days ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

$85 (w/o shipping) just for a single 7 digit plasma display. Wow! That is pricy. You could resell the 16 digit main display for at least $120 and that would offset the LED display set from Marco, assuming you like how the LED displays look. I have a couple of LED displays and I like them since I don't have to worry about the high voltage burning out on the power supply on top of the LED displays will last years. Guess it depends on if you want to keep the game original as possible or not.

That's a good idea. I like LED displays personally. I think they look great.

1 week later
#34 60 days ago

Working on fixing the bell. It is currently missing the MOV (came that way, my guess is because it came from Italy).
I found a 25v MOV at my local electronics store, but this is the only one they had.....Will this do the trick?

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#35 60 days ago

I thought it was a cap?

#36 60 days ago
Quoted from pintechev:

I thought it was a cap?

I am very open to being wrong. The manual says it is a cap, but the guy at the electronics store insisted it was a MOV, based on a picture I showed him of what is installed in my brother's game. See below. I'm ignorant on this stuff, so I tend to rely on the expertise found here on Pinside. Normally I would have just left the store, but the guy was pressuring me and said I could return it if need be.

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#37 60 days ago

I thought it was a cap to reduce arcing of the switch.

#38 60 days ago

It's a capacitor. Page 54 of the manual. Bell Assembly (p/n C-8461-1) shows item number 14 is 5043-09072-00 = Capacitor, 0.1ufd, 500V.

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CCD-0.1uF-500V-P5

The one installed (in the photo) doesn't look like the same specification as the manual.

#39 60 days ago

look at page 54 in the manual the bell assembly lists all its parts item #14 part #5043-09072-00 is listed as a capacitor 0.1 micro farad 500v

#40 59 days ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

It's a capacitor. Page 54 of the manual. Bell Assembly (p/n C-8461-1) shows item number 14 is 5043-09072-00 = Capacitor, 0.1ufd, 500V.
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CCD-0.1uF-500V-P5
The one installed (in the photo) doesn't look like the same specification as the manual.

Thanks for the link. I'm ordering two (one for me, one for my brother). Just wondering...what would happen if I had connected the two red wires without the cap and powered up the game?

#41 59 days ago

Nothing. The cap just prevents sparking and arcing on the contacts. For a short period of time, it’s fine since the bell is not used often.

1 month later
#42 13 days ago

Got the bell working with the new capacitor. Replaced a bunch of sleeves, pop bumper ring, all three pop bumper switches/spoons are new, gapped everything nicely, and switched out some plastics. Its coming along nicely. What I need now is for just ONE of the pop bumpers to come alive. The other two work great. Nothing from one of them. Manually depressing the ring will register a score, but nothing on the pop, even in test mode.
I checked wiring, reseated connectors, checked for obvious breaks, replaced fuses, still just one pop won't fire (except for the scoring, when manually pressed.
What can I do? This is the only left to do !!!!

#43 13 days ago

I bought a new switch for the bell from Marco, as per the manual, but the replacement part from Marco is NOT the correct part, it is way longer than the original switch, and doesn't fit.

#44 13 days ago

Time to email Marco about the wrong switch.

#45 13 days ago

What I need now is for just ONE of the pop bumpers to come alive. The other two work great. Nothing from one of them. Manually depressing the ring will register a score, but nothing on the pop, even in test mode.
I checked wiring, reseated connectors, checked for obvious breaks, replaced fuses, still just one pop won't fire (except for the scoring, when manually pressed.
What can I do? This is the only left to do !!!!

#46 13 days ago

Do you have voltage on both coil lugs?

#47 13 days ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Do you have voltage on both coil lugs?

Ok, true confession time, I've worked on games for years, but everytime I deal with a live coil, I jack something up. How do I test for voltage without blowing something up?

#48 13 days ago

Set meter for VDC and wedge the black meter lead between the ground braid wire and the side of the bottom cabinet. Then use the red meter lead to test each side of the coil. You should see the same voltage on each coil lug. If only one lug has voltage, you have a break in the coil somewhere.

#49 13 days ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Set meter for VDC and wedge the black meter lead between the ground braid wire and the side of the bottom cabinet. Then use the red meter lead to test each side of the coil. You should see the same voltage on each coil lug. If only one lug has voltage, you have a break in the coil somewhere.

Thanks for that. Just to clarify....game powered on, right?
The coil is brand new, so I would be surprised if the coil is bad.

#50 13 days ago

Anytime you are taking voltage measurements, the game has to be on.
Resistance measurements you would want to do with the game off.

There are 56 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
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