Disconnect J1 and J3 from the lamp board. Do all the playfield feature switched lamps still stay on? If yes, you've accidentally connected the common bare braid power wire running to the feature lamp bases across to the bare braid power wire running to the G.I.

What indications are you getting from switch test mode for these switches?

Is this the same machine you mentioned had all the feature lamps stuck on?

What exactly does this mean? They flash normally or they all stay lit?

Can you raise all the drop targets and remove all balls from the machine. Then go into switch test mode and activate all switches one at a time starting from switch 40 down to switch 1 (as listed in the manual)?
Let us know any oddities you find, it will help to diagnose why those switches aren't working. Feel free to post pictures of the spinner and left flipper feed lane assemblies/wiring as pics will help too.

The dual white-yellow wires on the outlane switch are on the wrong lug. Those dual wires should be on the side lug where you have the single white-yellow wire running to the inlane switch.

Can you post more angle pictures of the spinner switch? Looks like you might have the wires crossed over but I need to see the diode side of the wiring on that switch.

Post some pics of all the 30 point rebound switches if you can showing which wires are connected to the lugs including pics with the diode in view.

Can you tell me again what happens when you do what I mention in post #2? I'm only interested in what the problematic machine does when you remove those connectors. Sorry, mentioning how it should work and how the other machine behaves with the lamps have only confused me

Those lamp driver board connectors are unrelated to the G.I. lights. Those connectors are for feature lamps that switch on and off.
I think you need to post pics showing the lighting you're having problems with.

Take a deep breath
Coincidentally, I'm working on the lamp wiring on a friends Xenon playfield at the moment - it's at his house though.
The common bare braid wire running to the feature lamps is indeed power, not ground. You'll have to carefully follow it around the playfield to see if it's connected to any G.I lamps braid.
From memory this feature lamp power braid wire is connected to thick light blue wires only. I'll check it tomorrow.

Feel like posting some pictures underneath the playfield showing as much of the lamp braids as you can?

BTW, have you done any work on the swing out wooden lamp/display board in the back box behind the backglass (i.e. reconnect any lamp sockets there?) Maybe that's where the short between the feature and G.I lamps is.

With the machine OFF, disconnect the playfield connector (J1) off the rectifier board.
Grab your multimeter and set it to Ohms Resistance mode.
Do you measure a short circuit (zero ohms) between the feature lamp power braid (thick blue wire) and any of the G.I. lamp power braids that have the thick Red or thick Orange wires?

You've got the braids touching some playfield nuts - see the 3 green circles below. Are the two nuts at the back of the playfield connected together by any metal on top of the playfield?

Xenon_LampPowerM.jpg

If you power on the machine with the J1 playfield connector disconnected from the rectifier board, are all the switched feature lamps behind the backglass still stuck on?

If not, can you post some clear pictures of the J1 connector? Did you re-terminate that J1 connector by any chance?

Where does the thick blue power wire for the switched feature lamps end on the playfield? I see two down the back of the playfield, two on the yellow arrow lamp near the drop targets and what looks like two near the front of the playfield that goes to the credit indicator lamp. Somewhere the blue wire has to end with a single wire..

So the problem is not on the playfield.

This time, reconnect the J1 connector onto the rectifier board. There might be one or two floating rectangular connectors behind the backbox swingout light board that connects the backglass lights to the rectifier board. If yes, disconnect them and power up the machine.
Are all the switched feature playfield lamps still stuck on?

How about the infinity lamps around the backglass? were they still stuck on, or not on at all?

This time, disconnect J1 off the AUX lamp board.
Any change?

Can you post some pictures of the back of lamp/display swinging wood board - including those 3 connectors you disconnected? Also one showing how the infinity lamps are connected.

Ah crap. Sorry man, I don't know what I was thinking about the feature lamp power and G.I lamp power lines being shorted. It has nothing to do with your problem.

For all the playfield lamps to be stuck on, something must be enabling all the SCRs on the lamp driver board.

Do you have a logic probe?

BTW, please confirm whether or not you have the same stuck on lamp issue with a normal Bally lamp driver board.
Also, please install the Bally lamp driver board, it will make it easier for me to tell you where to probe.

If all feature lamps are always ON, then they are finding a path to ground somewhere. You need to find that path to ground and remove it.

Don't focus on lamp "power", focus on lamp "ground".

All feature and GI lamps should always have (DC on some 80's pinball games and newer) or AC voltage fed to them by design. Feature lamps only "light" when they are switched to make a connection with ground. Same concept with coils.

I feel like when you were in the process of swapping the play fields, you incorrectly connected the GI braid to some other part of the feature lamps "braid" that was not really "GI". Hence, all your feature lamps are on, just like GI is intended.

You see, GI always has a return path... that's why it's always on, unless a relay flashes it off by design briefly (as in some later Stern and Bally games).

GI voltage-return and feature lamp voltage-return are all four completely different paths/connections. See photo below of rectifier board in Xenon...

Just because it's braided under the play field, does not necessarily mean it's part of the "GI" circuit. Likewise, GI can have no braid at all. Sometimes at the factory they just used whatever wire they had lying around.

You could also have a socket wired incorrectly, making a connection that it should not. In other words, two lamps right next to each other, one GI and one feature, and you switched the GI return line with the feature lamp line. You see?

I agree with others suggestions to remove as much wiring/connectors as possible and try to determine why the feature lamp(s) are being grounded through your GI bus... Also, double check you fuses... surprised one has not blown with so many extra lamps being fed where they should not be fed.

You could also accomplish this by unplugging EVERYTHING on the play field and even removing it from the cabinet, and just use a 9V lantern battery to determine where your GI/feature lamps are crossing/shorted.

Only other place the short could exist is the feature lamps in the head. You unplugged it in the last post so that's not it.

Just curious, did you install LED bulbs in the entire game?

I ask because that could make troubleshooting it more difficult, depending on the voltage range/brand of LED that you used.

Screen Shot 2018-03-29 at 4.14.06 PM (resized).png

Can you do me a favor.
Grab a jumper wire. With a Bally lamp driver board installed, connect one end of the wire to TP2 (GND) on the lamp driver board. Connect the other end of the wire to the lower leg of resistor R75 on the lamp driver board. R75 is located near the top left of the board.

This jumper wire will stop the lamp board from switching on any feature lamps.
What result do you get from the switched feature lamps?

If all feature lamps are always ON, then they are finding a path to a "return" rail somewhere. You need to find that path from the PF to the rectifier board in the lower cabinet and then remove it.

This sentence does not make any sense. Feature lamps do not have a common path to ground. EACH lamp is only lit WHEN the MPU+lamp driver board tells it to be on. Each feature lamp has a single wire for this ability to turn on/off. Each of those wires runs back to the lamp board. The other side of the feature lamp circuit is a daisy chained wire that contains only one piece of the circuit (the supply voltage in this case).

However, GI does share a common return path for BOTH sides of the circuit because the bulbs never need to individually switch off or on.

I would remove most or all of the LEDS from either the GI or feature sockets and see what happens connecting them one at a time. Maybe defective bulb or bulbs?

It's time to get the meter out and trace some wires on the play field. Something is connected where it should not be or you have defective LED bulbs. You are certain the problem is on the PF so find out where/how the feature lamps are lighting. I suppose you could have a pin in a harness wrong... I forgot if you mentioned that you repined any PF connectors at all. I thought no.

Is this is a different Bally lamp board to the first Bally lamp board you had?

Anyway. Yeah, check the trough switch and make sure the switch wire lever doesn't occasionally get stuck in the slot of the ball guide.