No, sounds like you are saying across the battery pack. It is inline with the battery pack. See attached photo for how it is situated in a four battery pack set up. I think it results in non banded end of diode to positive of battery and then banded end of diode to positive of circuit board
Since you only have a 3-battery pack, install it in-line in the red lead somewhere. Diode Anode toward battery pack, cathode towards PC board. Cathode of diode can be identified as end of diode with stripe.
This allows current flow from the battery pack but blocks current flow into battery pack.
Note -- photo from emsrph is correct only if you have a four-cell battery pack.
Not to be contradicting anyone but I believe there is a diode on the MPU that blocks voltage to the stock battery holder. Would another diode be redundant? Or you could install NVRAM and forget about batteries forever.
I understand how it is installed in a 4 pack battery remote, but I want to make sure I understand how to install it in a three pack remote. If I understand correctly I splice the diode in the red lead with the stripped end pointing to the board and the other end pointing away from the board. Is this correct G-P-E ?
Yes, this is correct.
And as mikat11 stated - some games have a built in blocking diode already installed. Ones that do not include early Gottliebs, Sterns and Ballys. Which machine is this for?
Yeah, the photo that emsrph showed would be easiest.
But - the best method for this would be to eliminate the need for a battery completely with something like this:
http://lockwhenlit.com/anyPin.htm
I don't think so at all. Putting a diode inline I
On the red wire is way easier than jumping a four battery pack. Try to solder it correctly without melting the housing. Please
From your original picture you leave the battery pack alone. Solder the band side of diode right to board. Non banded side of diode add that red wire with heatshrink. Black on the neg side of board your done.
Connect your battery pack to the extension cable.
Yep, agree with CNKay. Just use your 3-pack and put the diode on the red wire covered in heat shrink tubing. Very fine line in soldering the diode without destroying the 4-pack. It's what I had on hand that's why I used it.
Eric
Thanks for all the advice, I had used the three pack and spliced the diode on the red.. Success !! High scores hold, the game "pops" on the scores I set. Now I do have one more question on this matter, when I change the batteries, I guess I'll lose the high score and I'll have to reset my settings?? Or is there a trick to keeping my settings???
Quoted from Doggy:Now I do have one more question on this matter, when I change the batteries, I guess I'll lose the high score and I'll have to reset my settings?? Or is there a trick to keeping my settings???
You can change the batteries with the machine on to keep high scores.
Yes turn machine power on and you can even unplug that extension cable take the pack to your workbench measure the voltage inspect or change and then plug back in. All with machine on. It is very good practice to change yearly just like smoke alarms but you will find that the batteries even after a year are like brand new so use them up in a remote control or game controller.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Bally_6803#Relocating_the_Factory_NiCad_Battery_off_the_MPU
Edit: Oops...the banded end of the diode should face the positive connection on the MPU.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
https://www.youtube.com/c/ChrisHiblerPinball
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
Quoted from 4hammer:It looks like the diode is backwards. The band should be pointing to the + pad.
yeah I screwed it up then fixed it. Seems to be working now. Thanks
Quoted from pacman11:yeah I screwed it up then fixed it. Seems to be working now. Thanks
I screwed up too.
I misinterpreted my own picture in the PinWiki.
Glad you caught it pacman11 ...
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
https://www.youtube.com/c/ChrisHiblerPinball
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
I screwed up too.
I misinterpreted my own picture in the PinWiki.
Glad you caught it pacman11 ...
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
https://www.youtube.com/c/ChrisHiblerPinball
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
Quoted from ChrisHibler:I screwed up too.
I misinterpreted my own picture in the PinWiki.
Glad you caught it pacman11 ...
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact
https://www.youtube.com/c/ChrisHiblerPinball
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
Hey Chris I had you fixed my Banzai Run boards last year but as I play the game the sounds aren’t all there. Something is missing in the sounds it’s weird.. Any ideas?
Reseat the ribbon from the MPU to the sound board a few times. See if that improves behavior.
—
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
Thank you for checking out the PinWiki - http://www.PinWiki.com/
Quoted from ChrisHibler:Reseat the ribbon from the MPU to the sound board a few times. See if that improves behavior.
—
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
Http://chrishiblerpinball.com/contact
Thank you for checking out the PinWiki - http://www.PinWiki.com/
Yeah I tried that awhile ago. Someone else on here had the same problem a while ago couldn't remember what the fix was..
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