(Topic ID: 11744)

Need help! How to remove edge connector pins w/o spending $100 for the tool?

By SunKing

9 years ago


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There are 54 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 9 years ago

So I'm working on the sexy, but dirty Genie - and I'm having a real hard time getting the edge connector pins removed the connector housing. I bought the cheap tool (http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-HTA1884): ...but I'm not having any luck. Do I really have to buy this $100 tool (http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-465195-2), or is there any easier way? What am I doing wrong? Any suggestions would be appreciated - THANKS!

#2 9 years ago

SunKing

The cheaper extraction tool should work fine.

You need to insert the tip of the tool into the slot and push gently under the pin locking tang.
Don't push too hard as you can break the tip of the tool very easily
While pushing with the tool, Pull on the wire connected to the pin you are trying to extract.
The pin should pop out of the Housing.

Are the pins in the connector acid damage with bluish/green corrosion?
If so sometimes this makes the pins stick to the housing.
What I do then is dip the whole connector, Housing and pins into a small container of 50/50 water and white vinegar. This will break gown the corrosion on the pins and the bond to the housing. Rinse with water then alcohol.

Then try extracting again.

If you are still having trouble let me know and I can make and post a video to utube.

#3 9 years ago
Quoted from pdman:

You need to insert the tip of the tool into the slot and push gently under the pin locking tang.
Don't push too hard as you can break the tip of the tool very easily
While pushing with the tool, Pull on the wire connected to the pin you are trying to extract.
The pin should pop out of the Housing

Thanks pdman. This is what I was trying to do....but I wasn't having any luck. I even used the new connectors as a reference to make sure I was putting the tool on the under side of the pin and pushing in the correct direction. Yeah, most have heavy acid damage, so I'll give it another try tonight with the water/vinegar. Thanks again for the help!

#4 9 years ago

I never used the tool, I just used a small jewelers type screwdriver and it worked fine.

#5 9 years ago
Quoted from RWH:

I never used the tool, I just used a small jewelers type screwdriver and it worked fine.

This is what I do too. Easy peasy...

#6 9 years ago

Normally, I think I'm pretty mechanically inclined. In this case, I must be an idiot... Perhaps the problem was I wasn't drinking. I'll fix that tonight.

#7 9 years ago

I've modified a jewelers screwdriver and a coping saw blade and both worked OK. However they don't work as well or consistent as the proper extraction tool does. The correct tool however is very easy to break the tip. If this happens you can use a bench grinder to reshape the tip.

Sunking, the acid damage needs to be cleaned to make the contact pins easy to extract. You can even use a stronger 75% vinegar to 25% water ratio as well for stubborn acid damage. Let the connector soak for an hour or two and agitate it a few times per hour.

After this the contacts should come out easily.

#8 9 years ago

Those of you saying "easy as pie"....you are talking about Sys 1 edge connectors? Worst thing I've ever dealt with in the pinball world in my opinion. My fingers cursed me for days after the last time I did a re-pin job.

SunKing - If you have new replacement housings (GPE sells most of them) just cut the damn wires and crimp on your new connectors. SOOOO much easier.

I ultimately had best luck buying a pack of cheap jewelers screwdrivers and having a go at them with my grinder. Much trial and error and I ended up with a stubby little pointy "shank". Because it had the plastic handle, I could slide the point into the housing, then rest the handle on the bottom of the backbox (or anything solid) and push down real hard on the housing to get the pin to pop out. Other guys use a small nail hammered into a piece of wood, and then of course you have to grind it appropriately too. Same concept though.

#9 9 years ago
Quoted from examiner:

Those of you saying "easy as pie"....you are talking about Sys 1 edge connectors? Worst thing I've ever dealt with in the pinball world in my opinion. My fingers cursed me for days after the last time I did a re-pin job.
SunKing - If you have new replacement housings (GPE sells most of them) just cut the damn wires and crimp on your new connectors. SOOOO much easier.

THANK YOU!!! ...I knew it had to be harder than people were saying. I sure wish I'd seen this post an hour ago, as it would have saved me some time. HOWEVER - I did find all the part numbers for the connector housings here: http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_1#Connector_Designations With the part numbers, a quick google search lead me to Great Planes Electronics (GPE) - where I went ahead and ordered the 10 housings I needed. For about $16 including shipping, it's more than worth it to me (my time and fingers are worth more). The only issue I see is that they don't have the 21 pin (part # 09-01-6211), so I went ahead and got the 22 pin instead. I figured if nothing else I could cut/grind off the extra hole.

#10 9 years ago

I also soak the original connector housings in the Vinegar solution, water rinse, alcohol rinse and a thorough dry.
No sense inserting new contacts into a cruddy housing!

#11 9 years ago

I don't mess with flaky connectors anymore, off with their heads and make a new one up.
Replace the male pins on the board also if you want to do it right.
Once you get used to the crimp tool you can do this in minutes.
Get the pins and housings as long as you can get, I have 20 pin and you just cut and grind to make the length you need.
If in doubt ask GPE he knows what you need.

Eric

#12 9 years ago

Thanks for the help guys - very much appreciated. I do have plenty of experience rebuilding connectors, but this is my 1st Gottlieb System 1.

Replace the male pins on the board also if you want to do it right.

Just FYI - with the exception of the power board, Gottlieb System 1's don't have male pins - they are all 'edge connect' (see pic below). Regardless, I'm getting all new boards so it won't be an issue either way.

s1cpu1.jpg

#13 9 years ago

Oops, should have read you post a little better I have B/W and Sterns so I assumed.

Eric

#14 9 years ago
Quoted from examiner:

Those of you saying "easy as pie"....you are talking about Sys 1 edge connectors

If they are the same as the IDC connectors in my system80 game then yes. I didn't have much problem at all, could just be dumb luck but it went easy for me. I didn't have to modify my screwdriver or anything. Mabe mine were worn the the point they were already getting loose in the housing, who knows.

#15 9 years ago
Quoted from SunKing:

Just FYI - with the exception of the power board, Gottlieb System 1's don't have male pins - they are all 'edge connect' (see pic below). Regardless, I'm getting all new boards so it won't be an issue either way.

You know you can re-tin those connector edges and it makes a hell of a difference in how things work (reliability wise).

#16 9 years ago

Nope, they aren't IDC. Here's what I'm dealing with.....

s1con3.jpg

#17 9 years ago

Those look just like mine. I think they are IDC card connectors. They take .156 molex replacement pins if I recall correctly, is that what you had to order??? IDC just refers to the type of connection made with the wires not the board edges. I may be wrong so please don't get offended, I'm not implying your wrong just trying to help.

#18 9 years ago

I'm no expert - just going by what I see on Clay's system 1 guide:

"No System1 game should have "IDC" (Insulation Displacement) connectors (IDC connectors were introduced with Gottlieb System80 games.) If a system1 game does have IDC connectors, someone probably transplanted them to the game you're working with."

But yes, they do take .156 molex pins, and look exactly like the picture above. ....and hey - no offense taken at all - my bad if my posts came across that way. I'm happy for the help!

#19 9 years ago
Quoted from SunKing:

For about $16 including shipping, it's more than worth it to me (my time and fingers are worth more).

You'll be so happy you took this approach. For the cost of a pizza, it's more than worth it to anybody in my opinion. These things are just a whole different beast than the typical "slides onto a male header pin" connector.

And all of this work truly is mandatory to get a good solid playing Sys 1 game. It's next to impossible to troubleshoot any problem on a Sys 1 until you've gone thru the effort of doing this (because ultimately, 90+% of the problems fall back onto the damn edge connectors).

My first real project solid state game was a system 1. In hindsight, probably not the wisest move, but it forced me to learn a bunch of new skills right out of the chute, which was a good thing.

#20 9 years ago

You my be correct, I'm no expert by any means either and I too use clay's guides but was not aware of the fact that IDC's were not used until system80's which is what I have (Star Race that by the way I just got back up and working perfectly) I only mentioned not taking offense because some get really aggitated on here if you mention much counter to what they say. Good luck you'll get it done I'm sure.

#21 9 years ago

The .156 refers to the spacing between connections, which is the same on the System 1 edge connectors as on most other type of "molex" connectors. (lots of .100's out there too tho)

The difference being that on the edge connectors, the housing don't slide onto pins protruding from the board. The literally slide onto the edge of the board. On the back side of the board are a series of "pads" the connectors touch to complete the signal path.

You actually should use a slightly different pin also. Typically, you would use a "trifurcon" pin, which has the little wings to grab the male header pin from 3 sides (hence the "tri" I would assume). For the edge connectors, you should use the flat pins (GPE sells them too). You want the entire body of the pin to rest against the pad on the back of the board. Otherwise, those little "wings" on a trifurcon could cause the pin to sit up slightly higher from the board and give you less physical contact area.

#22 9 years ago

I need to pick your brain Examiner!!!

#23 9 years ago
Quoted from RWH:

I need to pick your brain Examiner!!!

ha! actually, my overall knowledge is quite limited compared to lots of folks here. The stuff I do contribute just comes from actual practical experience of having done it/fought with it/cussed at it at some point before. I just try to hopefully help people avoid those same frustrations when I can.

I'm also not one to quickly suggest cutting off an old part and buying a new one (after all, there isn't anything wrong with the edge connector housings themselves). But when dealing with these edge conectors, the cost/reward ratio isn't even close. If you've gone to the point of fabricating a good pin extraction tool, OK, maybe it isn't a completely horrible job (still not fun though). But for the typical hobbyist (that includes me), I found this was the best/easiest way.

#24 9 years ago

Please read my earlier posts.
If you use the correct extraction tool the pins WILL come out.
I have repinned at least 100 of these connectors . The only time extraction proves difficult is if there is a lot of acid damage to the pins. This causes the pins to
"bond" to the connector housing.
If this is the case, you need to soak the connector in the Vinegar mix.

This will allow you to extract the pins more easily.

Again, trust me as I have done this to over 100 connectors.

#25 9 years ago
Quoted from pdman:

If you use the correct extraction tool the pins WILL come out

I'm not doubting you - but evidently, I'm just not as skilled. I was trying with the same tool shown above, and even tried on several pins that were not corroded - but still no luck. Maybe if I had three hands...

Anyway, I got new connector housings from GPE - and that was the best $16 I've spent. I finished re-building the connectors last night, and installed the new Pascal board. ....now I just need to rebuild the flippers, and give it one more good looking over before powering it up. ....getting close.

#26 9 years ago

Was the tool you were using "exactly" as in the original picture?
It isn't the W-HT-1884 (which looks identical)?
The proper tool is 11-03-0016. The W-HT-1884 is a hair wider than the 11-03-0016 -- not much but enough to make it difficult to use as it doesn't fit into the end slot properly. The 11-03-0016 fits perfectly - but, of course, costs considerably more.

I've also found out that if you push slightly on the wire into the plug while inserting the tool also helps - it removes some of the pressure of the tang hitting the back side of the retention slot. After doing a few of these, you tend to get the hang of it and it gets easier...unless there is dirt/corrosion/other crud within the contact area.

Ed

#27 9 years ago

Thanks for the info Ed. It looks like I had the wrong tool. Here's the one I purchased:

Extractor Tool .156" crimp terminals
#77-HTA1884
Pin extractor tool for single and dual row connector housings.
Weight: 0.11 oz

...figures. Oh well - live and learn.

#28 9 years ago
Quoted from G-P-E:

The W-HT-1884 is a hair wider than the 11-03-0016 -- not much but enough to make it difficult to use as it doesn't fit into the end slot properly. The 11-03-0016 fits perfectly - but, of course, costs considerably more.

SunKing

If you have a bench grinder or even a dremel you should be able to grind the width down of the extraction tool so it fits properly.

2 years later
#29 7 years ago

Sorry to revive an old thread, but I just wanted to say I was so happy when I found this thread today! So happy I'm not alone! I was planning on repinning all my connectors today for my Gottlieb System 1 boards but I could not get a single wire to come out easily. I got so incredibly frustrated. I'm not really a novice to wiring or anything either, so I was not expecting this. The pictures make it seem like the pins will just pop right out. So I'm with examiner here, that I am just going to cut them off and get all new connectors. Like SunKing said, GPE has all the connectors needed but one. I still don't know where to get the 21 pin molex (09-01-6211). If anyone knows where I can get one, that would be most helpful. Otherwise I did order a 22 pin connector like SunKing too, in case it would work. So SunKing, I'd be interested in knowing if that worked for you too.

#30 7 years ago

markronz
Read my posts in this thread. Here's something I wrote that should help.

You need to insert the tip of the tool into the slot and push gently under the pin locking tang.
Don't push too hard as you can break the tip of the tool very easily
While pushing with the tool, Pull on the wire connected to the pin you are trying to extract.
The pin should pop out of the Housing.

Are the pins in the connector corrosion damage with bluish/green corrosion?
If so sometimes this makes the pins stick to the housing.
What I do then is dip the whole connector, Housing and pins into a small container of 50/50 water and white vinegar. This will break gown the corrosion on the pins and the bond to the housing. Rinse with water then alcohol.

Then try extracting again.

#31 7 years ago

I did read your posts. My pins did not have corrosion on them. The pins simply would not come out, and I did verify that I did buy the right tool. A tool which cost me $11 something for a tiny piece of metal. After removing 3 pins in 20 minutes and cursing up a storm, on my 4th pin removal I broke my tool. So last night I did order the molex connectors (granted I had to buy 22 port ones instead of the 21 port ones). Coincidentally the most of the molex connectors with shipping was $11. So if the end game is to get the wires out and cut the connectors off anyway, then I would have just been further ahead to go get the new connectors as a whole, cut the wires outright and avoid myself some frustration. I should have just did that instead of buying the tool. Same cost, same result, less headaches.

I get that in the long run, had I already owned the removal tool, that using it would save me money in the future down the road, if it worked and i was able to use it multiple times. But I'm not sure that I will have more than one pinball machine. So owning this specialized tool, which is now broke anyway, does nothing for me.

Don't get me wrong I appreciate the help. And I don't doubt the authenticity of your procedure you listed, the fact is it wasn't working for me. So maybe like someone else said, you're just more skilled that us at the removal.

So with all that said, the only thing left up in the air, which I won't know until my GPE order arrives, is if the 22 pin connector is a suitable replacement for the 21 pin one. If someone has any idea, I'd love to know. Or if you know where I can purchase a new 21 pin connector, I'd love to know that too. I couldn't find them anywhere. Otherwise if the 22 pin one does not work, and I can't find a 21 pin connector, then I will probably go buy an eyeglass screwdriver tool for 99 cents and suffer through removing the pins from just those 21 pin connectors. I'm not going to buy another $11 tool that I will just break again.

#32 7 years ago
Quoted from markronz:

I did read your posts. My pins did not have corrosion on them. The pins simply would not come out, and I did verify that I did buy the right tool. A tool which cost me $11 something for a tiny piece of metal. After removing 3 pins in 20 minutes and cursing up a storm, on my 4th pin removal I broke my tool. So last night I did order the molex connectors (granted I had to buy 22 port ones instead of the 21 port ones). Coincidentally the most of the molex connectors with shipping was $11. So if the end game is to get the wires out and cut the connectors off anyway, then I would have just been further ahead to go get the new connectors as a whole, cut the wires outright and avoid myself some frustration. I should have just did that instead of buying the tool. Same cost, same result, less headaches.
I get that in the long run, had I already owned the removal tool, that using it would save me money in the future down the road, if it worked and i was able to use it multiple times. But I'm not sure that I will have more than one pinball machine. So owning this specialized tool, which is now broke anyway, does nothing for me.
Don't get me wrong I appreciate the help. And I don't doubt the authenticity of your procedure you listed, the fact is it wasn't working for me. So maybe like someone else said, you're just more skilled that us at the removal.
So with all that said, the only thing left up in the air, which I won't know until my GPE order arrives, is if the 22 pin connector is a suitable replacement for the 21 pin one. If someone has any idea, I'd love to know. Or if you know where I can purchase a new 21 pin connector, I'd love to know that too. I couldn't find them anywhere. Otherwise if the 22 pin one does not work, and I can't find a 21 pin connector, then I will probably go buy an eyeglass screwdriver tool for 99 cents and suffer through removing the pins from just those 21 pin connectors. I'm not going to buy another $11 tool that I will just break again.

I suppose, you are doing something wrong; normally the tool is good and it is pretty easy to get out teh contacts.

Did you see this french site? I cannot read france, but pictures say more than words ...

http://flipperfrance.com/index.php/articles/94-connecteur-gottlieb-cas-gnral

- Ingo

#34 7 years ago
Quoted from markronz:

The pins simply would not come out, and I did verify that I did buy the right tool. A tool which cost me $11 something for a tiny piece of metal.

Are you really sure you have the right tool? The correct tool that fits is the Molex 11-03-0016 -- 'distributor' cost on these is higher than $11 each in less than 100 qty (embarrassing). That $11 price sounds more like the cheaper Waldom W-HT-1884. The W-HT-1884 looks identical to the 11-03-0016 but there is an ever so slight difference in width...enough to make the job tougher when using the cheaper one. Like you said, both the Waldom W-HT-1884 and the Molex 11-03-0016 are nothing more an expensive piece of metal. I tried to get a machine shop to make a cheaper version for me but that fell through. I'll have to ding his bell again.

Molex still makes the 21 pin plugs (09-01-6211) but there is no factory stock. In order for me to stock up on these, they want me to pay for an entire run - far more than I can afford for just one connector size. Regarding using the 22 pin plug - although I have never done this, I have heard several people say that using the 22 pin plug works.

BTW - the connectors have been shipped.

Ed (GPE)

#35 7 years ago

Ok I see my mistake now. In Clay's System 1 repair guide it says:
"Molex card edge pin extraction tool, part# 11-03-0003 or 11-03-0016."

So from Mouser electronics, I bought the 11-03-0003 part here:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/11-03-0003/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv%252bZqqdCpW8N8I58JeN4OGt
That is $11 but it does not come with the rubber butt end piece. I found that strange, now I know why. So I had to fashion my own end for it.

If I look up 11-03-0016 on Mouser, I see it here for $15:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/11-03-0016/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduilNHMC564LRe0JDDNn1FI1pb4EIEuG%2f6g%3d
So I guess I should have really ordered one of each. I know there's two sized pins according to the repair guide, so that other part, the 0003, must be for that other pin. I guess the wording on Clay's repair guide, what with the use of the word "OR" made me think that it meant OR. Foolish me. So I guess I did have the wrong part after all then.

Regardless, if I need one or both of those tools, they cost $11 or $15 respectively, not including shipping. All new molex connectors cost me $11 and I think that included shipping. So I still stand by my original statement that if you don't intend on repinning multiple different machines or anything, it still makes sense just to buy all new molex connectors. Especially since you said the 22 pin one should work. Either way I have to cut the original connector pin off. So why spend money on an expensive removal tool which can (and did) break when you could just buy new molex and save your self some arthritic pain. Granted the removal surely would be easier with the right tool. But that doesn't change my point about the prices.

Anyway just my two cents. Looking forward to the new molex arriving, thanks Ed. Thanks everyone else too for the help.

#36 7 years ago
Quoted from markronz:

Ok I see my mistake now. In Clay's System 1 repair guide it says:
"Molex card edge pin extraction tool, part# 11-03-0003 or 11-03-0016."
So from Mouser electronics, I bought the 11-03-0003 part here:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/11-03-0003/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv%252bZqqdCpW8N8I58JeN4OGt
That is $11 but it does not come with the rubber butt end piece. I found that strange, now I know why. So I had to fashion my own end for it.
If I look up 11-03-0016 on Mouser, I see it here for $15:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/11-03-0016/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduilNHMC564LRe0JDDNn1FI1pb4EIEuG%2f6g%3d
So I guess I should have really ordered one of each. I know there's two sized pins according to the repair guide, so that other part, the 0003, must be for that other pin. I guess the wording on Clay's repair guide, what with the use of the word "OR" made me think that it meant OR. Foolish me. So I guess I did have the wrong part after all then.
Regardless, if I need one or both of those tools, they cost $11 or $15 respectively, not including shipping. All new molex connectors cost me $11 and I think that included shipping. So I still stand by my original statement that if you don't intend on repinning multiple different machines or anything, it still makes sense just to buy all new molex connectors. Especially since you said the 22 pin one should work. Either way I have to cut the original connector pin off. So why spend money on an expensive removal tool which can (and did) break when you could just buy new molex and save your self some arthritic pain. Granted the removal surely would be easier with the right tool. But that doesn't change my point about the prices.
Anyway just my two cents. Looking forward to the new molex arriving, thanks Ed. Thanks everyone else too for the help.

If you already boght the connectors from Ed, why didn´t you buy the tool from him too - the shipping cost are already incurred, so that the shipping costs would have been zero. The price for Ed´s tool, see here
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=11-03-0016
is very good - see, that mouser´s price is without VAT, so that Ed´s price is more than fair.
His toll is highly recommended!!!

- Ingo

#37 7 years ago

I bought other things from mouser, so that's why I bought that tool from them initially. But, that is besides the point. My point is, I don't need the removal tool because I bought all new molex connectors. So I can just cut all the wires and easily re-wire stuff into the new molex. No need for the tool at all. Had I know this originally, I wouldn't have bought the tool to begin with. i would have just bought all new connectors and been done with it.

#38 7 years ago
Quoted from markronz:

I bought other things from mouser, so that's why I bought that tool from them initially. But, that is besides the point. My point is, I don't need the removal tool because I bought all new molex connectors. So I can just cut all the wires and easily re-wire stuff into the new molex. No need for the tool at all. Had I know this originally, I wouldn't have bought the tool to begin with. i would have just bought all new connectors and been done with it.

Totally clear now, an argument one cannot say anything against ... (with the tool, you can win 1mm of the wire )

#39 7 years ago

Yes the tool tip is easily prone to breakage. If it does break, I just use my grinding wheel and refashion the tip.
I have also made extraction tools out of old jigsaw blades and coping saw blades. I posted this info here about 3 years ago.
mark, though you may not think you need an extraction tool, let me throw a few scenarios out there.
What if you get another system 1 Pin? What if you crimp on new contacts and after they are inserted into the connector you find out some wires are in the wrong connector location. Do you cut these off or just extract them?
What if you get your new contacts and connectors all crimped and the Pin still doesn't work. What if you need to isolate a wire run or several runs? Do you cut or extract?

To me the number one reason folks can't extract a System one contact easily is because the contacts become oxidized and corrosive. This causes the contacts to "stick" to the connector housing. I will soak the connector, contacts and all in a 50/50 or 75/25% solution of white vinegar and water. This will break down the corrosion and "unstick" the contact from the connector housing. Also Folks will "pry" with the extraction tool. This will surely cause the tip to break. You "push" gently on the contact locking tang while pulling on the wire. Pop, out comes the contact!

I think I made a video showing how to extract a system 1 contact. Gonna make another one and post it on Pinside to show that it can be done.

#40 7 years ago

Just to add this as an FYI for future readers:

There are cheaper alternatives but they don't fit properly as they're a hair too wide.
Three major tools:
Waldom W-HT-1884
Thickness = 0.020, depth = 0.300, width = 0.055

Molex 11-03-0003
Thickness = 0.025, depth = 0.300, width = 0.055

Molex 11-03-0016
Thickness = 0.020, depth = 0.300, width = 0.035

The two cheaper versions -- W-HT-1884 and 11-03-0003 are slightly too wide
to use in the Gottlieb single sided edge connectors.

#41 7 years ago
Quoted from G-P-E:

The two cheaper versions -- W-HT-1884 and 11-03-0003 are slightly too wide
to use in the Gottlieb single sided edge connectors.

GPE
If these two models are too wide, I would use my bench grinder and take just a bit of the width off untill it fits.

#42 7 years ago

pdman, those are definitely valid points. I guess that's a road I plan to cross when I come to it. I just got my first pin and likely won't be getting another any time soon, if ever. And I hope that I can trust in my own work enough that I won't screw up any pins. I really hope I don't mess up the pinning anyway because I don't know how to troubleshoot which individual pin is messed up!

Like others have said, the removal procedure you're describing seems like it might be easier if I had three hands. But anyway, if I have to, I will buy the necessary removal tools and give it another go. But I'm really hoping to avoid it.

#43 7 years ago

I have had success making my own out of fairly cheap lockpicking straight rakes. just using a grinder to shape to what you need. yes the prices for most of those special removal tools is criminal.

#44 7 years ago

I have a question as it pertains to the 22 pin connector replacement for the 21 pin connector. I've rewired all the others and saved those two for last. I've noticed that the little divider notches for the 22 pin connector do not line up with what the 21 pin connector had. So it's impossible to insert them onto the board, at least without some modification it seems. I guess I just wanted to confirm that fact and that's what others have done with the 22 pin molex connector in the past. Wanted to be sure before I break out the Dremel and start modifying things. So am I right on that, that some modification is needed? Thanks!

#45 7 years ago

Anyone? Again, just wanted to check before I start modifying the new parts. Guess if I don't hear anything soon I'll just do it. Worst case I guess I'd just have to buy more connectors.

#46 7 years ago

I'd say hack it the best you can. But make sure you use a Sharpie or something and mark pin 1 on the connector as well as the PCB.

#47 7 years ago

After breaking a couple of the ~$15 pin extractors, I took a good quality small screwdriver and worked it over on the bench grinder, making it thin, an almost a pint. Works great for removing edge connectors.

1 week later
#48 7 years ago

Long story short, I put a wire into the wrong port on my molex connector, immediately noticed and I cursed. But I did purchase the right removal tool along the way. For what it's worth I did figure out how to remove the pins. This picture was the one that really cleared it all up for me.

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/images/e/e6/OfficialMolexPinExtractionDrawing.jpg

Just thought I'd post it because I didn't see this pic on this thread anywhere, unless I missed it. As others suspected, pretty sure I was using the removal tool incorrectly at the beginning.

#49 7 years ago
Quoted from markronz:

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/images/e/e6/OfficialMolexPinExtractionDrawing.jpg

Just thought I'd post it because I didn't see this pic on this thread anywhere, unless I missed it. As others suspected, pretty sure I was using the removal tool incorrectly at the beginning.

Glad to see things worked out. Just take it easy with the extraction tool, don't overpush. You want to flatten the "Locking Tang" of the contact and then hold the connector in one hand and pull on the wire with the other hand. The tool only flattens the tang.
And if the tip does break, bench grind it back to shape

6 years later
#50 5 months ago

G-P-E

I know this is quite an old post but I'm wondering if anyone can offer some clarification. I'm currently working on a Gottlieb #system80 (#TimeLine) that is definitely in need of having the connectors cleaned/repined.

Is it possible to repin these "push style" connectors with .156 crimp style ends? I know the existing edge connectors are hard, if not impossible, to come by so I would prefer to reuse them and not hack something together with the edge connectors I have laying around.

If I am able to repin these with the crimp style (bifurcon?) ends that I have I realize I'll probably have to buy the Molex 11-03-0016 removal tool. But if that makes it easier and ultimately saves time I guess I'm willing to shell out for it.

Thanks!

PXL_20210505_010814953 (resized).jpgPXL_20210505_011212379 (resized).jpg
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