I believe 206 & 208 are interchangeable with 207 & 209. What those other connectors are for, not sure. Someone may have run new wire. I'd leave them out and see what doesn't work.

The answer to your question is on page 2-40 of your manual; the left Phurba control switch runs through a green/orange and white/yellow pair of wires to the CPU. The right Phurba control switch runs through a green/brown and white/red pair of wires to the CPU. The two connectors in your picture do indeed connect to J206/J208, so go ahead and reconnect them.

That doesn't address the issue with the right Phruba, though. Put your game in switch edges test (T.1) and see if the game registers closure of the right Phurba control switch; if not, it's possible you have a broken wire on that switch, a broken diode, or some wiring issue there. The pictures I have on hand don't show the wiring of the right switch, so you'll have to trace wires to see where it connects. My *guess* is that it ties in to the coin door interface board somewhere...

Also make sure right purba is well connected under the PF as well. If I remember right both had molex style quick connects.
If you do not find the answer you want send me a PM and I can take you some pictures of whatever you need to help.

And this stops when removed?

Are you testing this with a game started, or are you in the diagnostic menu when this happens?

Put the game in test T.3 then press the advance (+) button until you reach switch 21; now press the left Phurba control button. Does the game slam tilt? Does the DMD show that switch 21 was actuated? Advance to switch 34 and repeat the test; what happens?

With the power OFF disconnect the J3 connector at the opto switch-10 PCB (under the front left corner of the playfield). Turn the game on, enter T.3 in diagnostics advance to switch 21, and try the left Phurba button; what happens now? Advance to switch 34 and try the left Phurba button; what happens now?

If no switch closure is indicated on the DMD while on switch 21 and the left Phurba button is pressed, then the opto switch-10 board is defective (likely a bad diode D4).

Certainly does seem like an issue with the opto switch-10 board. If you're comfortable with board repair work here are some things to try:

1) Remove the board from the playfield and carefully examine the solder connections around the J3 header pins - look for any shorts between adjacent pins.

2) Does it look like U1 might have been replaced at some point? (Look for signs of fresh solder on the pins of the chip.) If so, check for shorts between adjacent pins.

3) Try replacing D4 on that board; if that doesn't fix the issue the next thing to do is replace U1 on that board. (You could do some in-circuit diagnostics of the board, but it's probably easiest to just replace D4 and U1 as one/both of those are likely the culprit.)

Good Evening jadziedzic,

I found this thread from 7 months ago and it seems to be my case exactly as well. Left Phurba working normally then one day the green wire from the phurba control come off and when I reattached it my problem surfaced. I followed your steps above and I think I may have a problem with my opto switch-10 board as above or a problem with wiring? Ok so here are a couple of images for your review. You sound like you know this game VERY well so I am hoping you might be able to confirm the part to replace for me.

Notice the difference on switch 21 AND 34 when i press the left phurba button! See all of the switches that are actually activating? It is actually a 21-28 and 34. I included a photo of opto switch-10 and it appears pristine. I work in technology and know that often times you cannot visually see problems with boards so any advice you can provide would be great.

Thanks in advance.

Ray

IMG_1537.jpg

IMG_1536.jpg

IMG_1531.jpg

IMG_1534.jpg

IMG_1532.jpg

IMG_1535.jpg

Could it be that you soldered the wire at the wrong side of the diode ?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/shadow-right-diverter-switch#post-2371754

It is interesting that you said that. To be honest I might have but it would be on the button connection where it initially came off of if anything. I didn't touch anywhere else. I am going to attempt to switch it now. I'll let you know! Thanks for the idea.

Well it didn't make any difference same result. bummer.

Was..
IMG_1550.jpg

now...
IMG_1551.jpg

Don't support that diode there could be bad? I'm guessing not because it does register open/close its just opening and closing a bunch of switches.

Ray

Try it this way:
the shadow knows.jpg

btw. yesterday I posted this picture:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/switch-and-diode-question-relating-to-tom#post-2601551
It's the same setup

The ZaZa knows! Thanks that was it! When it broke loose I reconnected it to the wrong damn post! Thanks for saving me.

Found this thread when googling my issue with my Shadow….

Left Phurba Control switch works in Test (T1 & T3) but not during game play. Solenoid fires in Solenoid test.

Green wire came off of the leaf switch. I soldered it back to the correct lug on the switch. Verified it with the picture of this thread. I also have swapped the switch with the same switch from another shadow. No change.

Help?

I just went through this process on my shadow and the phurba switch did not toggle the slam tilt either time however it did toggle Mongol targets 26 27 and 28.

The issue on the surface I'm having is the same. When the left phurba is triggered but the button, a column lights up starting with slam tilt and going all the way down to the Mongol targets in column 2 . With it disconnected the games internal switch to change the diverter works just fine as long as the button is disconnected.

Hi every time I shoot the ball into the scoop where the ball goes to the upper playfield nothing happens. Not even ball search helps. Any advice would be greatly appreciated

The ball goes somewhere and nothing happens. Even ball search doesn't help.

The first thing to check is mechanical. Is there trash (a small piece of plastic, a screw, a broken part) preventing the ball from getting where it should go or messing with switch activation?

The second thing to check is the switch. The ball is supposed to activate a switch so that the game knows that it should activate the coil to kick the ball out. Does the switch have broken wires? Tug on them to make sure. Something mechanical with it's operation? Go into 'Switch Edges' test. Can you get the switch to register in test mode?

Not kicking the ball out in ball search. The coil that kicks the ball... are the wires connected to it? Tug on them to make sure. Go into coil test. Can you get the coil to activate in coil test?

Let us know what you find!