What probably happened was that the 10 point relay fired and waited for the 10 point score reel End of Stroke switch to open. The score reel solenoid pulled in the plunger and part of the drive pawl but never managed to open the End of Stroke switch since the drive pawl broke. So both coils stuck on until the score reel coil overheated and someone noticed.

I think you need the drive pawl shown here: http://www.planetarypinball.com/reference/partsmanuals/BLY_Parts_1968/index.html#/90/

I don't know much about the availability of NOS Bally EM parts, but a used score reel shouldn't be hard to find. I don't think this is a common failure so I wouldn't worry about replacing it with a used part.

The coil list for Grand Tour on ipdb.org calls for E-184-206 coils for all three score reels.
Ordinarily the loose wire wouldn't concern me unless the coil isn't working, but since it's apparently not the right coil I could be convinced to replace it.
Generally if the score reel is clean and the plunger isn't mushroomed it won't need any lubrication.

/Mark

First I thought you'd be able to knock that plunger out & replace just the coil but I see the drive pawl is broken

Parts catalog is here: http://www.planetarypinball.com/reference/partsmanuals/BLY_Parts_1969/index.html#/112/

looks like this is the correct part by the numbers: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/C-435-6 but you'll have to pull that plunger out of there.

... this assembly has a different part # for the plunger but the whole assembly # is correct https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/AS-2293-5

you'll need a new coil with a sleeve also check your bell coil & match coil as that may have fried as well

Pinball Resource .com may have these parts as well , coils are a tad less expensive so may be worth a call to Steve

The short answer is to have a good look at the three switches and make sure that all three of them open and close (electrically, not just visually) at some point when you manually advance the score reel from 0 through 9. It looks like the two outer switches may be stuck, one always open and one always closed.

The long answer is that there are two different circuits that drive the score reel as you have observed. One circuit adds points during the game and seems to be working fine. The other circuit is used to reset the score reel to 0 and that one isn't working.

Those three switches in your photos are used by different circuits. One switch (the inner one I think) closes when the score reel is showing a 9 so that the next pulse that comes in to fire the score reel gets shared with the next higher score reel an advances it too, going from 09 to 10 for example.

The other two switches are used by the reset circuit. One switch (the middle one I think) opens when the score reel is showing 0 and prevents any more reset pulses from advancing the score reel. The other one (the outer one?) closes when the score reel shows 0 to tell the game that it has reached the reset position. Usually the game keep sending pulses until all score reels show 0 so if one is sticky it'll still get there eventually.

You've got the idea. A switch is made up of two (or three) leaves, each leaf with a contact in it. The longer of the switch leaves in each switch is the one that travels, or gets pushed by something else, and meets the shorter of the leaves. The arrangement of the long and short leaves and the activating lever tells you what kind of switch it is.

So looking at your image you can infer that:
- 1 & 2 form one switch where 2 is the traveling leaf so that switch should be open unless the lever from the score reel cam pushes it closed
- 3 & 4 form one switch where 3 is the traveling leaf so that switch should be closed unless opened by the lever
- 5 & 6 form one switch where 5 is the traveling leaf so that switch should be open unless closed by the lever

That's assuming that the lever is in the right place in the photo. Compare against the other score reels to see how each switch works on those.

You probably won't get shocked if you advance the score reel with the power on, but why would you need to? Doing it with the power off lets you move things slowly and observe how they work.

Well done. To clarify, a switch can look closed but it doesn't count unless it closes the circuit electrically. I meant that you should check that the switches open and close electrically with a meter and not just observe that they appear to open and close.