(Topic ID: 285567)

Need help fixing Big Brave and help with rules

By Sauce

3 years ago


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  • 18 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Sauce
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#1 3 years ago

Hi all,

I just got my first pinball machine, a Big Brave . It's a lot of fun to play and seems in pretty decent shape.

I'm excited to join this community, I've been reading up and watching videos in advance of buying a machine and it looks like there's so many awesome people around here!

I've already pulled apart 3 digits of the score counters since they were getting stuck and causing it to not reset properly or to miscount. The 1,000's digit was the worst of the lot. They seem to roll more smoothly now.

With respect to the game rules, I have two questions:
1. What exactly causes the two bumpers to light up? Mine DO light up, but I'm not sure what the trigger is yet
2. The "Special" light -- tied to the drop targets, seems to give me a random number of points when hitting the last drop target. I've got 10,000 points up to 40,000 points for hitting it. Is that right?

Continuing my questions with some technical ones, here are some issues I'm still having and since I don't have the schematics I'm at a loss for how to fix them.

3. The top of the star rollovers -- the one tied to the letter 'B', does nothing when lit. It works fine when not lit, so the switch is ok. I understand from other posts that reviewing the schematic would show me some relay to look at, but again, I don't have them... The two stars below it both work fine, they award points and advance the bonus.
4. Credits decrease ok, but do not increase. I hear the knocker for bonus credits (at score multiples or matching last two digits), but nothing. Same for adding a coin.
5. The leftmost and rightmost "gutters", which cause you to lose a ball, sometimes get stuck giving me a ton of points. They are only supposed to give 5,000 points when lit or 500 + advance bonus when not. I'm not sure yet, but I think the many, many point bonus only happens when lit (5,000 points).
6. Occasionally all the lights on the PF go out but the ones on the backbox are ok). Slamming the coin box door or just playing a bit will bring them back to life. My guess is the problem is with either the fuse or the fuse holder for these lights (or the wire attached to them) is at fault here, but I'm not sure which it is.

I'll probably have some other questions later, but if anyone can help with the game rules or tech issues I have above, I'd really appreciate it!

Nice to join your community.

Sauce

#2 3 years ago

To answer one of my questions about the game rules:

Quoted from Sauce:

1. What exactly causes the two bumpers to light up? Mine DO light up, but I'm not sure what the trigger is yet

B lights the left bumper, G lights the right one.

From what I can tell, on Big Brave the B activates 3 features (left bumper, top roll-over star, and the light just next to the left flipper), the I activates 5 features (middle roll-over star, two outer "gutters", and the two bullseyes) , and the G activates 3 features (right bumper, bottom roll-over star, and the light just next to the right flipper) . Of course, the three combined activate the special.

Sauce

BIG Targets.jpgBIG Targets.jpg
#3 3 years ago

First question

Do you have a schematic?

#4 3 years ago

Welcome! It's great that you've got a Big Brave. This is one of the better-playing Gottlieb multi-player EMs. I have this game, and I really like it.

Here are some answers to your questions.

You should be getting 5000 points when you knock down the last drop target. 10K points or more is definitely not right. If I had to guess, I would say your drop targets may not be resetting properly. All the drop targets should solidly and firmly pop back up on the first 5000 points scored after getting them all down. If they aren't, check the reset bar on the drop target bank to see if it is binding mechanically. The plunger and sleeve on these bank reset assemblies are often very gummed up and so they stick. Cleaning the plunger and the inside of the sleeve (or better yet, replacing the sleeve) often helps.

For star rollovers that don't score, it's probably due to dirty and/or mis-adjusted switch contacts on the sequence bank (relay bank) mounted on the underside of the PF. There is one relay for each letter B, I, and G. There are make-break switches on each of these relays that connect the corresponding rollover switch to one circuit when the relay is latched, and a different circuit when the relay is tripped. In this way, a star rollover can score one thing when not lit, and something else when lit. So if the rollover is dead when its corresponding relay is latched, the make-break switch points are probably not making good contact.

Also note that the sequence bank frame fits into two end brackets and there are wing nuts that hold the frame in the brackets. On Gottlieb EMs, if the frame is loose and has slipped out of the end brackets even a little bit, then the relays will not operate correctly. So you always want to make sure the relay frame is properly seated in the end brackets, and the wing nuts are cinched down very tight.

If your replay unit isn't adding credits, it most likely is that the pawl on the drive arm that pushes the gear is stuck on its pivot. If the pawl is stuck, you can put some penetrating oil on the pivot of the pawl on the drive arm and work the pawl back and forth by hand to free it up. Then you should start getting added credits again.

For the playfield lights, in addition to the fuse holder, check for a dirty switch on the tilt hold relay. This switch needs to be making good contact when the tilt hold relay is energized, or the PF lights will go out. This switch is what causes the PF to go dark when you tilt the machine during game play - the tilt hold relay drops open, shutting off both the lights and the power to the PF coils until the ball drains.

Have fun and again, welcome! - TimMe

#5 3 years ago

By the way, the over-scoring of your side drains may have the same root cause as the over-scoring on your drop targets. I believe on this game, they are scored by the same relay. Your 5000 point relay may be sticking mechanically. If it is, you can remove the coil from the relay frame and clean it. Here is a recent post on the EM tech forum with details on that topic:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jumping-jack-scoring-relay-sticks-sometimes#post-6014112

- TimMe

#6 3 years ago

The only thing I could add here is if your credit unit won't step up it could be the max credit switch on the credit unit is open.

You've got an ace of techs in Tim helping you. So I'll bow out of here. Stay in my lane.

#7 3 years ago
Quoted from EMsInKC:

The only thing I could add here is if your credit unit won't step up it could be the max credit switch on the credit unit is open.

Good point on the max credit switch, I forgot about that. And no need to bow out, it takes a village to help a newbie.

- TimMe

#8 3 years ago
Quoted from EMsInKC:

First question
Do you have a schematic?

Hi, unfortunately no. I mentioned it in my original post but I guess it got lost in the wall of text

Sauce

#9 3 years ago

Hi Tim,

First off, thanks for your long and detailed reply. There's a little bit of terminology for me here to figure out. The biggest challenge will be to find out where these circuits are.

Quoted from TimMe:

Welcome! It's great that you've got a Big Brave. This is one of the better-playing Gottlieb multi-player EMs. I have this game, and I really like it.

Thanks and I will say that the reviews on this site helped me figure out whether to buy it or not and what to offer. While I enjoy pinball, it's been a while for me and it is hard to know if this is "the one" I want to move forward with. Let's just say it is looking lonely in its spot and will have some friends one day, but it is hard to know which to start off with. My kids love it too.

When you hit the vari-target, how fast does it reset for you? I can't tell if it is behaving as expected. It always resets, but it doesn't travel super fast.

Quoted from TimMe:

You should be getting 5000 points when you knock down the last drop target. 10K points or more is definitely not right. If I had to guess, I would say your drop targets may not be resetting properly. All the drop targets should solidly and firmly pop back up on the first 5000 points scored after getting them all down. If they aren't, check the reset bar on the drop target bank to see if it is binding mechanically. The plunger and sleeve on these bank reset assemblies are often very gummed up and so they stick. Cleaning the plunger and the inside of the sleeve (or better yet, replacing the sleeve) often helps.

They do reset fine, but I'll look to see if there is a 5k point subsystem as you mentioned below. Since 5k seems to "misbehave", I assume this is a problem in one spot affecting all 3 5k targets. Do you only score 5k when the "SPECIAL" light is lit up for the drop targets?

Quoted from TimMe:

For star rollovers that don't score, it's probably due to dirty and/or mis-adjusted switch contacts on the sequence bank (relay bank) mounted on the underside of the PF. There is one relay for each letter B, I, and G. There are make-break switches on each of these relays that connect the corresponding rollover switch to one circuit when the relay is latched, and a different circuit when the relay is tripped. In this way, a star rollover can score one thing when not lit, and something else when lit. So if the rollover is dead when its corresponding relay is latched, the make-break switch points are probably not making good contact.

Again, since I don't have the schematic, I'll have to do a bit of sleuthing here, but I assume that the star switches are probably similar to the 5k points in that their behavior ties to one shared set of switches for the actual behavior. Since the other two star buttons work, the actual "100 points + bonus" must work and it is just the thing that links together, which is, as you say, either the switch for the rollover or the wire between that switch and the mechanism to give the points.

Quoted from TimMe:

Also note that the sequence bank frame fits into two end brackets and there are wing nuts that hold the frame in the brackets. On Gottlieb EMs, if the frame is loose and has slipped out of the end brackets even a little bit, then the relays will not operate correctly. So you always want to make sure the relay frame is properly seated in the end brackets, and the wing nuts are cinched down very tight.

Ok, I'll look for this. I assume this is the bank of switches running left-to-right behind the coin box. There's two other long banks of switches / relays running front-to-back deeper in the cabinet.

Quoted from TimMe:

If your replay unit isn't adding credits, it most likely is that the pawl on the drive arm that pushes the gear is stuck on its pivot. If the pawl is stuck, you can put some penetrating oil on the pivot of the pawl on the drive arm and work the pawl back and forth by hand to free it up. Then you should start getting added credits again.

When I de-gummed my score wheels, I pulled them out dismantled them and cleaned things thoroughly. Are you talking the same, or just doing this in place?

I'll also check to see if there is a switch that triggers on the far end of travel (for maximum credits) that might be stuck.

Quoted from TimMe:

For the playfield lights, in addition to the fuse holder, check for a dirty switch on the tilt hold relay. This switch needs to be making good contact when the tilt hold relay is energized, or the PF lights will go out. This switch is what causes the PF to go dark when you tilt the machine during game play - the tilt hold relay drops open, shutting off both the lights and the power to the PF coils until the ball drains.

I assume you mean two switches tied to the same relay, correct? Because the game plays when the lights are off. I also noticed the tilt bob doesn't seem to work well, even if I put it up against the ring it is in, it doesn't trigger easily. Wonder if there's some need for cleaning.

Quoted from TimMe:

By the way, the over-scoring of your side drains may have the same root cause as the over-scoring on your drop targets. I believe on this game, they are scored by the same relay. Your 5000 point relay may be sticking mechanically. If it is, you can remove the coil from the relay frame and clean it. Here is a recent post on the EM tech forum with details on that topic:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jumping-jack-scoring-relay-sticks-sometimes#post-6014112

I figured this may be the case since I think_ the drop target was coming in increments of 5,000 points.

In any case, thanks for all the help. I have a number of things to look for later on this evening after I'm done working for the day.

Sauce

#10 3 years ago
Quoted from EMsInKC:

The only thing I could add here is if your credit unit won't step up it could be the max credit switch on the credit unit is open.
You've got an ace of techs in Tim helping you. So I'll bow out of here. Stay in my lane.

Quoted from TimMe:

Good point on the max credit switch, I forgot about that. And no need to bow out, it takes a village to help a newbie.

I certainly appreciate the help from both of you!

Sauce

#11 3 years ago

Buy the schematic. PBR or Marco should have it.
Manual also.

#12 3 years ago

Well, you definitely have a learning curve ahead of you, which is (hopefully) part of the fun. There are resources online that give you information on the basics of EMs. You can do a search on this Pinside forum to find posts that are addressed to new game owners. Some of those posts should have pointers to the online information that will help you get educated about EM pingames.

As lowbeau67 says, you will want to get a schematic for your game. You can order one from The Pinball Resource. Learning to read a schematic is yet another education task, but a valuable skill to have.

If you don't know about the IPDB (the Internet Pinball Database), you should. Here is the entry for your game:

https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=234

Looking at the instruction card on one of the playfield photos, I notice it says that "Completing drop target sequence scores 5000 points and resets drop targets." So from that, you can assume that you should get 5000 points when you get all the drop targets down, whether the special is lit or not.

Quoted from Sauce:

Since the other two star buttons work, the actual "100 points + bonus" must work and it is just the thing that links together, which is, as you say, either the switch for the rollover or the wire between that switch and the mechanism to give the points.

Correct. The "switch for the rollover" is on a relay for one of the B-I-G letters that determines what the rollover is connected to (that is, what it is going to score). Because of the symptoms you are seeing, the switches on that relay would be the first thing to check.

That relay is located on something called a sequence bank. The sequence bank is a row of relays ganged side-by-side in a single steel frame. It is mounted to the underside of the playfield, all the way in the back (that is, just under the B-I-G rollovers at the top of the playfield). You need to raise the PF all the way up to see it.

The steel frame with relays mounted just behind the coin box, down inside the cabinet, is not the sequence bank. It is called the control bank. The relays on that bank are for overall machine control, such as starting the game, setting the number of players, tilting, and game over. The control bank is mounted on a rectangle of plywood called the bottom board.

The relays on the sequence bank are for things that are unique to the play of this specific game (such as remembering if the B-I-G letters have been made). The sequence bank does look a lot like the control bank, but like I said, the sequence bank is mounted on the underside of the PF.

And, the row of individual relays on the bottom board running front-to-back are not a relay bank, they are the set of individual relays needed to carry out various game functions. For example, from your above quote where you say "the mechanism to give the points" - that mechanism is one of these relays.

It's possible to lube the pawl on the replay unit while it is in place. If you can get to it, that will probably be the least amount of work. The replay unit does not slide out easily for service like the score units. Even if you remove the mounting screws, movement of the replay unit is limited by the attached wires. But if you can't lube the pawl with it in place, you'll probably be able to get access to it by removing the mounting screws and moving the frame, even with the wires still attached.

As for the tilt hold relay, yes, I meant that there are two switches on the same relay - one to control the lamps, and a different switch to control the coils.

- TimMe

#13 3 years ago
Quoted from TimMe:

Well, you definitely have a learning curve ahead of you, which is (hopefully) part of the fun. There are resources online that give you information on the basics of EMs. You can do a search on this Pinside forum to find posts that are addressed to new game owners. Some of those posts should have pointers to the online information that will help you get educated about EM pingames.
As lowbeau67 says, you will want to get a schematic for your game. You can order one from The Pinball Resource. Learning to read a schematic is yet another education task, but a valuable skill to have.

Yup, not afraid to learn, looking forward to it. Also logic done entirely through switches is fascinating, and very old school

As you and lowbeau67 suggest, I'm trying to order the manual and schematic (and a few spare parts), PBR is hard to get in touch with right now. No email orders & busy signals on the phone, but I'm working on it.

The left flipper buzzes like crazy when the button is held down, I think someone put in the wrong coil so that's one of the things I want to order from them. Also, one of the plungers in the credit mechanism reduces, and the other... does nothing. Maybe some parts are gummed up like you said.

I'll work on it tonight or tomorrow and let you know how I do. Thanks again!

Sauce

#14 3 years ago
Quoted from TimMe:

Have fun and again, welcome!

Forgot to ask you a critical question, TimMe ... As a seasoned pinball machine restorer, would you say it is ok to consume an alcoholic beverage while working one one's machine?

Sauce

#15 3 years ago

Here's my update:

Quoted from TimMe:

For star rollovers that don't score, it's probably due to dirty and/or mis-adjusted switch contacts on the sequence bank (relay bank) mounted on the underside of the PF. There is one relay for each letter B, I, and G. There are make-break switches on each of these relays that connect the corresponding rollover switch to one circuit when the relay is latched, and a different circuit when the relay is tripped. In this way, a star rollover can score one thing when not lit, and something else when lit. So if the rollover is dead when its corresponding relay is latched, the make-break switch points are probably not making good contact.

I found the relay responsible, and tried nudging the contacts slightly while the game was on. I found one contact that "woke up" the rollover when pushed slightly, so I gave it a tiny bend. The star rollover seems to work well now. I'm including an image of what I did. Some of these relays are self-documenting, at least the contacts look pretty clear in terms of being NC or NO or toggle.

Contact that needed to be bentContact that needed to be bent

Circled in red is the contact I bent slightly to make sure it comes into good contact with the lever that moves back and forth as the relay is engaged.

Quoted from TimMe:

Also note that the sequence bank frame fits into two end brackets and there are wing nuts that hold the frame in the brackets. On Gottlieb EMs, if the frame is loose and has slipped out of the end brackets even a little bit, then the relays will not operate correctly. So you always want to make sure the relay frame is properly seated in the end brackets, and the wing nuts are cinched down very tight.

The only wing nuts I found are in the relays near the coin box.

Quoted from TimMe:

For the playfield lights, in addition to the fuse holder, check for a dirty switch on the tilt hold relay. This switch needs to be making good contact when the tilt hold relay is energized, or the PF lights will go out. This switch is what causes the PF to go dark when you tilt the machine during game play - the tilt hold relay drops open, shutting off both the lights and the power to the PF coils until the ball drains.

I touched the various cables / fuses. Found one that even the slightest touch made the lights go on / off. Removed the fuse, it looks fine but there was some green stuff (hate green stuff in electronics) in the fuse holder. Scraped it off a bit and the lights seem to be behaving better. The PF lights seem to be protected by the middle fuse in this picture. I think you can still see some green on the top of two of the fuse holders.

Fuse Holders.jpgFuse Holders.jpg

Quoted from TimMe:

By the way, the over-scoring of your side drains may have the same root cause as the over-scoring on your drop targets. I believe on this game, they are scored by the same relay. Your 5000 point relay may be sticking mechanically. If it is, you can remove the coil from the relay frame and clean it. Here is a recent post on the EM tech forum with details on that topic:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jumping-jack-scoring-relay-sticks-sometimes#post-6014112

If the little cheat sheet in the machine is to be trusted, that relay, labeled 'E' is all the way in the back right of the machine. I was very excited for a moment when I found that the cables going to the PF were resting on that relay, and when I moved them out of the way there was a PF wire tangled in the switches. Sadly, that didn't help. I'll pull the relay out later to look at it, but it may be easier to do so after removing the PF since it is under where the PF "hinges" so that'll need to wait until I can give it proper attention.

Credit adjuster will wait until later too, until I can give it some proper attention. It might be easier for me to just take it apart since I'm not positive where to put the penetrating oil (an assembly diagram would help if I can find one between now and then).

Sadly, it isn't mounted very firmly, and I see that on the other side, the back glass is scraped right where the credit counter is. Maybe people jiggled it to give it credits? Or it bumped around during moving... It's only slight, and luckily on an unlit part of the back glass which means repainting it may be a bit easier.

More on the 5k bonus and the credit adjuster later.

As for the game rules, I see that completing the drop targets wants to award 5K. I still don't know what the "SPECIAL" light does.

Sauce

#16 3 years ago

Well, I screwed up and gave you incorrect advice regarding the relays for B-I-G. Yikes. On this game, there is no sequence bank mounted under the playfield, so you won't find any wing nuts there. Instead, there are individual relays that pull in and stay energized for the memory of each of the B-I-G letters. So the suggested fix I gave was correct (make-break switch on the controlling relay) but the place to look for that fix was wrong. Really sorry about that. I'm glad you figured it out in spite of the mis-information.

The issue with a relay bank being seated properly in the end brackets is a real issue, however, and it does still apply to your control bank down on the bottom board. On that bank, hopefully you can see the two wing nuts I was talking about. Just something to keep in mind going forward.

The replay unit is mounted using springs to make it more difficult to cheat by striking the head or backglass in an effort to make the replay unit jump up one credit. Since it is loosely mounted, it vibrates every time a credit is added, and that movement does tend to scrap the ink from the backglass after thousands of operations. There is supposed to be a foam pad on the front metal mask of the replay unit to keep it from scraping the glass, but that pad deteriorates over time.

The special awards a free game, so one credit should be added when you score it. Since your replay unit isn't adding credits right now, you are not seeing the award happen.

Here's a drawing showing the pivot that may be stuck on your replay unit. The red arrow points to the pivot. Note that there is a metal latch above this pivot, which is partially covering the pivot in this drawing. Your replay unit will likely have a similar latch, which will make the pivot difficult to see. You'll need to move the latch out of the way to see the pivot.

stepper pawl pivotstepper pawl pivot

- TimMe

#17 3 years ago
Quoted from TimMe:

I'm glad you figured it out in spite of the mis-information.

You were very helpful, I appreciate it.

Quoted from TimMe:

Here's a drawing showing the pivot that may be stuck on your replay unit. The red arrow points to the pivot.

That's very valuable and very definitely extremely gummy. I didn't even realize it was a pivot until you showed me the drawing. Now I see how it works, that arm (pawl?) gets pulled into one of the little notches on the wheel and advances the wheel a bit.

I'll pull that out tonight and clean it out. Don't have penetrating oil (I have goof off), so I'd rather pull it out and just use lacquer thinner and give that part a good cleaning. Then we'll see if it fires or not (hard to test it when standing behind the machine). The good news is the knock sound that happens when a credit is supposed to be awarded is there, so at least some of the +credit logic works.

Maybe this weekend I'll work on the 5k relay. Looks like it'll be easiest to get to if I remove the PF altogether, that'll take a little longer.

Sauce

#18 3 years ago
Quoted from Sauce:

You were very helpful, I appreciate it.
so I'd rather pull it out and just use lacquer thinner and give that part a good cleaning. Then we'll see if it fires or not (hard to test it when standing behind the machine)

I was able to pull the part out. I just had to remove the knocker switch and detach the long spring, both things I was able to do while the assembly was in place.

gunky credit advancing partgunky credit advancing part

That pivot really wanted some love. It only took a couple of drops of lacquer thinner to get it moving again, but then I scrubbed it all clean anyway. Looks like not only was this pivot necessary to raise credit count, but it was also necessary to make sure that lowering credits happened just one by one. TimMe was spot on on this one.

I didn't test it by lighting up special, but I hit 36,000 points (my first free life mark) and 50,000 points, and they both worked as well as dropping a coin in the coin slot.

Something else I noticed is my varitarget doesn't always work well. For instance, I just hit it up to 3k or 4k, but was only awarded 1k points for it. I've seen that happen before too. So on the remaining todo list to getting all the bits functional are fixing up the varitarget issue and cleaning out the 5k bonus relay which will hopefully fix multiple bonuses being added.

Sauce

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