(Topic ID: 116047)

Need help fixing a Gottlieb Scuba, never stops saying game over

By Whats_a_relay

9 years ago


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#1 9 years ago

Right up front I should say that I don't have experience with pinball machines, but I have been reading some things about EM machines, and I have a fair amount of electrical knowledge (don't let the user name fool you).

I have a Gottlieb Scuba machine that I'm trying to get working. It seems like it's close to functioning, it just never seems to start a game. Both the playfield and backglass light up when I plug it in. When I press the start button, both the scoring motor and the player unit go through a cycle that lasts about five seconds. There is a youtube video titled "Gottlieb pinball reset sequence animation", and what's happening looks very much like what that video shows (can't link to it with so few posts on this forum.) During this time, the ball in play display cycles through its range of 1 through 5, and the score reels will reset to zero if I had manually set them to something other than zero. It should be noted that the game over light stays on continuously while all of this is going on.

But after this cycle ends, I'm basically back to where I started. No ball in play numbers are lit up, just game over. The flippers don't respond, and neither do any of the bumpers. If I manually trip the far right coin switch, the scoring motor seems to go through a shorter cycle, maybe only 1/3 of a turn. Three credits also get added to the credit wheel, but the machine still doesn't act like a game is in progress. If I push the start button again, it just goes through the same cycle I described before, and the credit display decreases by one.

I thought maybe the game was in the tilt mode, but if manually trip the tilt switch, I can definitely see the tilt relay energize, and all the playfield lights shut off (this persists even if I unplug the machine, until I hit the start button again and the machine goes through the whole cycle again.)

The only other odd thing I noticed is that if I trip the far left coin switch (there isn't even a coin slot installed here) the machine seems to go through the same cycle as if I pressed the start button. None of the coin switches appear to be stuck on. All relays along the right side of the lower panel seem to move freely.

Any ideas? It just never seems to start a game. I do have the schematic for this machine, so that's good.

Thanks.

#2 9 years ago

Hey Whats_a_relay, welcome! I hope we can help you out. There are some Gottlieb wizards on Pinside who will hopefully be along in a second.

If you're not already reading the EM info on pinrepair.com, I'd recommend that you do. It's the best I know of.

A few things did come to my mind while reading your account of your machine's behavior. When you say it doesn't "start a game," you mean that a ball is never kicked out to the shooter lane, and that the flippers never work, and that the ball-in-play number remains unlit. All correct? Anything else?

I would check that:

1) There is a ball in the outhole. Well of course there is, unless there isn't. If yes, then,

2) Check the outhole switch. If it's not closing with a ball in the outhole, the kicker will be unable to serve the ball to the shooter lane -- in fact the startup sequence will stop right about where it sounds like yours is stopping.

3) Then maybe the outhole relay switches? I can't remember if this machine has an outhole relay.... but I imagine it probably does... which is close enough to the truth for tonight.

Hopefully somebody else can confirm or contradict the above as needed. Good luck!!

#3 9 years ago

I have not had a ball in the outhole for a lot of my testing since I have been swinging the playfield up and down a lot to get into the machine. But I did put one in the outhole and ran it through the sequence again... Doesn't seem to make any difference. It does appear to be closing the outhole switch.

I even tried manually pushing the ball from the outhole back into the shooter lane after I pressed the start button, just to rule out a faulty solenoid that launches the ball into the shooter lane... No difference. And it does appear that the switch between the outhole and the shooter lane is tripping correctly.

I don't see that this machine has an outhole relay per the schematic, unless they call it something different, which is totally possible. Thanks for the help.

#4 9 years ago

On the schematic it will be called the Ball Return.

The right coin chute is considered the "2nd chute" and will add credits. The left coin chute has the option of being set to follow the 2nd chute settings, or to start a game. There should be adjustment plugs on the bottom cabinet board for this.

I think on this era of 2-player game, the playfield won't come alive unless the Game Over relay is not tripped (should be QB on the Control Bank of relays), so it's normally closed switch is... closed. Actually, it needs probably three switches to be closed: a make/break switch on the Tilt Hold relay (H), a make/break switch on a Start relay in the Control Bank (usually SB), and then QB. So the Control Bank needs to have reset following the game reset, to make sure both QB and SB are not tripped and those switches are closed. And the H relay needs to be energized for that make/break switch to be closed. If all three switches are closed and still no good, then they could have dirty contacts. You should be able to see QB and SB switches over on the far right side of the schematic, to see if Scuba has this type of logic.

The Ball Return solenoid won't fire until the Ball Return relay energizes and closes a switch there, and the Ball Return relay won't energize until the ball return switch closes (aka 'outhole') and the normally closed switch on QB is (again) closed.

So, since neither the playfield is active, nor the ball return is working, that all points to the Game Over relay not being reset in the Control Bank and/or it's switches are not closed/making contact (if it is reset).

#5 9 years ago

As I remember from playing around with the machine a little bit last night, I think the game over relay energizes as soon as the reset sequence completes. So, I guess it's logical that this would be preventing the game from starting up. I'm not 100% sure on that though. I'm not at home with the machine right now.

I think I'm going to start by running over all of the contacts in the relay banks with a small file to make sure everything is getting a good connection. There's got to be a corroded contact somewhere because nothing looks physically damaged or bent up inside the machine.

#6 9 years ago

The game over relay is definitely energizing as soon as the reset sequence is complete.

Anyway, I took a small file and cleaned just about every contact there is on the lower panel. The only things I saw glaringly wrong were a contact on the sequence bank relay that should have been normally closed but was bent open, and a contact on the 3rd chute relay that was a normally closed contact, but it didn't actually open when the relay moved. I corrected both of those.

I did manage to get one good play out of the machine though. Just to see what would happen, I ran down the credit wheel to 0, and reset the game again, and suddenly the game over relay stayed reset. There were no balls in play displayed on the machine, and no game over light, and when I put a ball in the outhole, it got pushed over into the shooter lane.

The game seemed to play normally at that point. I had control over the flippers, and it even kept score on the player 1 reel, but as soon as the ball drained, it went back to a steady game over and no more response when I tried to play the game. I only scored 12 points.

The game over relay is back to energizing constantly. So, I guess I need to figure out why this is. Oddly though, now I seem to intermittently have the ball play display showing ball 1 in play. Game over is illuminated at the same time as this.

#7 9 years ago

Check to see that the R relay is staying active.

Game Over (QB) should trip as soon as power is applied to the game via the on/off switch. Then when you start a game, the R relay should activate and stay activated until the game is powered off again.

Once R activates, it should be held active via a switch of its own, plus a normally closed Lightbox Tilt switch (i.e., it's in the backbox, and should be a blade with a round silver weight on it), and a normally closed Bounce switch (this one is on the score motor board). So three switches to check/clean.

If R is not able to stay active, then a switch there closes again, which completes a path to QB and causes it to trip (just like on power up).

#8 9 years ago

It seems like the bounce switch may not have been making good contact. I was a little suspect of it before since it seemed like it was just barely making contact, so I bent it a little so it would hold contact better. I should also say that I was not previously using the on/off switch the way I should have been most of the time since it is hard to get to where I am working on the machine. I had been just unplugging it and plugging it back in. It seems like there is a difference between that and using the switch however.

Anyway, it is a whole lot more functional now than it has ever been. It seems to run through a game properly. However, the score seems to rack up way too quickly. It seems like ten points register more like 110. 50 points registers as even more. The credits remaining also seems to increase rather than decrease, but now that I think about it, it may just be bonus credits because the game thinks I'm scoring so damn well.

#9 9 years ago

Alright, well, it looks like the scoring is only messed up for player 1. Player 2 seems to work properly. When I increment player 1's score by ten, I notice that the next higher number place seems to come along for the ride and start rotating before the next lower number place rolls over from 9 to 0. So, for instance, the score will go from 0 to 10, but then instead of increasing to 20, it will show 120. Then just hitting another 10 takes it to 230, 340, 450, 560, 670, then the hundreds place takes the thousands place along with it, so I get to 1780, 2890, 3900.

Obviously I think something is happening with the player 1 score reels, but I have already taken a file to the contacts that register when each number is at 9 or 0. I have also cleaned some of the circuit boards that the decagon wheels rotate next to.

What else could be wrong with my scoring reels? They do seem like someone has lubricated them in the past. Would cleaning this out help my issue? (Obviously at some point I will clean them, I'm just wondering what would cause this.)

Thanks.

#10 9 years ago

Check the Player 1 tens reel "9th position" switch and make sure it only closes when the score reel is on 9, otherwise the next higher reel will 'carry over' too soon.

#11 9 years ago

I would have thought the same thing, but I cleaned all of those switches, and they seem ok. It's also odd how the numbers carry over at the same spot each time, and they continue carrying over for the rest of the rotation of the number until it actually rolls over to zero again.

It's got to be something with the score reels though, considering that player 2 seems to work fine.

#12 9 years ago
Quoted from Whats_a_relay:

I would have thought the same thing, but I cleaned all of those switches, and they seem ok. It's also odd how the numbers carry over at the same spot each time, and they continue carrying over for the rest of the rotation of the number until it actually rolls over to zero again.
It's got to be something with the score reels though, considering that player 2 seems to work fine.

It's not a matter of cleaning, it's about adjusting the gaps on them so they open and close at the correct points. Compare the switch operation (position, gaps) to the ones that are working on Player 2 (for example).

#13 9 years ago

I found that the single contacts that are supposed to close when the tens spot reaches 9 were spread too far apart and weren't ever closing. Same with the hundreds spot, thanks. The only other real issue I see is that the machine always seems to start a new game, even when the credits reel shows 0 credits left.

#14 9 years ago
Quoted from Whats_a_relay:

I found that the single contacts that are supposed to close when the tens spot reaches 9 were spread too far apart and weren't ever closing. Same with the hundreds spot, thanks. The only other real issue I see is that the machine always seems to start a new game, even when the credits reel shows 0 credits left.

not really a "problem" there, it is likely something the previous owner did intentionally... what em owners do to set their machines on "free play" is permanently close the "0 position" switch on the credit wheel... the machine then always "thinks" there are credits on the machine, even though the reel reads "0"...

sounds like you are good to go to me...

#15 9 years ago

Sorry, I was talking about two separate issues there. The contacts I found spread apart were on the scoring reels. But I did check the credit reel, and sure enough someone actually re-soldered a wire so that the 0 position switch was considered to be closed all the time. I actually don't want this machine to free play as the eventual goal is to put it in service for people to use. But, it doesn't look like it does now. The adjustments for how many plays per coin are still kind of a mystery to me though.

#16 9 years ago
Quoted from Whats_a_relay:

The adjustments for how many plays per coin are still kind of a mystery to me though.

There are typically a 'left' and 'right' coin chute (relative to facing the game). The chute on the left is considered chute #1 and the chute on the right is considered chute #2.

One adjustment plug will control whether the "1st chute" just directly starts a game, or whether it will follow the "2nd chute" setting. There will be one adjustment plug for that in its own jones plug receiver.

Then there will another jones plug to set the number of credits the 2nd chute awards, selectable from 2 to 5 credits.

So for example if the first adjustment plug is in the "2nd chute adj." setting, and the 2nd chute adjustment is set to 3, then both coin chutes will award 3 credits and neither will start a game directly.

If the 1st chute adjustment plug is set to just the 1st chute, then a coin in the 1st chute will just start a game. A coin in the 2nd chute will award however many credits it's set to. This setting is useful for when it's set to one dime for one play (left chute), or three plays for a quarter (right chute).

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