(Topic ID: 278820)

Need help figuring out my Flight 2000 please (resolved)

By Tomass

3 years ago


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  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Tomass
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Flight2000_SolenoidOrder1.gif
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#1 3 years ago

I have been trying to track down a problem with my Flight 2000 for a long time and need some advice. I just replaced the rectifier board and I am getting correct voltages at the test points. I was not getting proper voltages on the SDU so I swapped in a working one to no avail. I am getting 11.9 at TP 5 and my high voltage looks good too, but I am not getting 5v. TP 1, 6, and 7 all show no votage (.5v). Can anyone point me to my next step? Any help is greatly appreciated.

#2 3 years ago

Is there something that shows where each connector leads from board to board? Can't understand how a working sdu with correct voltages coming in does not show 5v on the test points.

#3 3 years ago

Got these pics from ipbd schematics. The 5vdc is produced on the solenoid driver board. It leaves on j3 pin 15 to the mpu on a white green wire. That connects to the mpu on j4 pin 17. Check tp 1 on solenoid driver board. If good, then check all the pins and connectors in between for 5v. May need to reflow pins or replace the connectors.

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#4 3 years ago
Quoted from PinZig:

Got these pics from ipbd schematics. The 5vdc is produced on the solenoid driver board. It leaves on j3 pin 15 to the mpu on a white green wire. That connects to the mpu on j4 pin 17. Check tp 1 on solenoid driver board. If good, then check all the pins and connectors in between for 5v. May need to reflow pins or replace the connectors.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Thank you! Not sure why I find that schematic so hard to follow. I repinned the whole j4 mpu connector and it booted. I am going to repin all those .100 connectors, trying to head off any further problems. I will change the topic to resolved once it is up and running fully.

#5 3 years ago

Happy to help. Good luck on the f2k. Hope to pick one up some day myself, fun game.

#6 3 years ago

So I put my original board back since I need this one for another game. I get 15v at TP5 but all my 5v lines read 1.5v. I replaced caps and that lm323 before, trying tp get it running.
Also the LED on the mpu is solid lit.

#7 3 years ago
Quoted from Tomass:

I replaced caps and that lm323 before

Post a clear picture of the LM323, could be a Chinese fake.

#8 3 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Post a clear picture of the LM323, could be a Chinese fake.

Probably is. I will post one as soon as I get home today.

#9 3 years ago

Here is one of the ones I put in it.

20201007_160742 (resized).jpg20201007_160742 (resized).jpg
#10 3 years ago
Quoted from Tomass:

Here is one of the ones I put in it.

Can you post a picture of the other side of the regulator where the pins come out?

#11 3 years ago

1602129403148368317585824560169 (resized).jpg1602129403148368317585824560169 (resized).jpg

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#12 3 years ago

Looks fake. The large blue isolators around the pins are the giveaway.

See this post for more details:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-solenoid-driver-voltage-regulator-board-woes#post-4929361

#13 3 years ago

I will look at replacing that lm323 at another time. Oddly enough my SBM had a stern driver board and this had a Bally driver board. I swapped them since SBM is a future project and now I am sorting some other problems. Now I am having a solenoid issue. Only 1 pop is firing, and it fires when either pop is hit. Same with the slings. Either one gets hit and only the one activates. Also the drop targets are not resetting. Someone suggested that it may be a diode problem.
Would that be a diode on one of those coils?

#14 3 years ago
Quoted from Tomass:

Now I am having a solenoid issue. Only 1 pop is firing, and it fires when either pop is hit. Same with the slings. Either one gets hit and only the one activates. Also the drop targets are not resetting.

There's four signals used in a binary fashion from the MPU board to the solenoid driver board that select momentary solenoids.
The pop bumper/slingshot issue sounds like the lowest binary signal has a bad connection at either end on the MPU board J4 pin 4 or downstream at the Solenoid Driver Board (SDB) J4 pin 6 (Blue-Yellow wire). This bad connection will affect other solenoids.
Check the soldering on the J4 pin header on the SDB. If it's ok, you probably need to crimp new connector terminals at SDB J4 and/or MPU J4.

#15 3 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

There's four signals used in a binary fashion from the MPU board to the solenoid driver board that select momentary solenoids.
The pop bumper/slingshot issue sounds like the lowest binary signal has a bad connection at either end on the MPU board J4 pin 4 or downstream at the Solenoid Driver Board (SDB) J4 pin 6 (Blue-Yellow wire). This bad connection will affect other solenoids.
Check the soldering on the J4 pin header on the SDB. If it's ok, you probably need to crimp new connector terminals at SDB J4 and/or MPU J4.

Thank you for the response. I am not sure how you read that from the schematics but I will dig through them to try to understand; not that I don't believe you, but I want to better understand. I find the sys 11 schematics much easier to follow. Maybe I need to print these to see the whole picture.
Tonight I will follow your instructions and hopefully find my issue.
Thanks again for the help! Much appreciated.

#16 3 years ago
Quoted from Tomass:

I am not sure how you read that from the schematics

There's four momentary solenoid select signals from the MPU board to the SDB. These are signals PB0, PB1, PB2 and PB3 which come from pins 4, 3, 2, 1 respectively on J4 of the MPU board and go to pins 6, 5, 4, 3 respectively at J4 of the SDB.
From the Solenoid Driver Board (SDB) schematic around the 74L154 chip, below are the four PB0, PB1, PB2 and PB3 signal states and which solenoid the combination of states select. The four digits in the leftmost column are binary numbers - "0" means zero volts, "1" means 5 volts.

One of these four signals is not reaching the SDB circuit. The solenoids listed on the left are what should activate, the incorrect solenoids on the right are what you are probably getting based on the partial detail you gave.
The PB0 signal isn't getting from the MPU board to the SDB and the SDB is always seeing PB0 as a "1". This results in the SDB incorrectly activating the same slingshot coil for each slingshot side switches, and ditto with the pop bumpers.
This is a Blue-Yellow wire from the MPU board J4 pin 4 to the SDB J4 pin 6

Flight2000_SolenoidOrder1.gifFlight2000_SolenoidOrder1.gif

#17 3 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

There's four momentary solenoid select signals from the MPU board to the SDB. These are signals PB0, PB1, PB2 and PB3 which come from pins 4, 3, 2, 1 respectively on J4 of the MPU board and go to pins 6, 5, 4, 3 respectively at J4 of the SDB.
From the Solenoid Driver Board (SDB) schematic around the 74L154 chip, below are the four PB0, PB1, PB2 and PB3 signal states and which solenoid the combination of states select. The four digits in the leftmost column are binary numbers - "0" means zero volts, "1" means 5 volts.
One of these four signals is not reaching the SDB circuit. The solenoids listed on the left are what should activate, the incorrect solenoids on the right are what you are probably getting based on the partial detail you gave.
The PB0 signal isn't getting from the MPU board to the SDB and the SDB is always seeing PB0 as a "1". This results in the SDB incorrectly activating the same slingshot coil for each slingshot side switches, and ditto with the pop bumpers.
This is a Blue-Yellow wire from the MPU board J4 pin 4 to the SDB J4 pin 6
[quoted image]

Thank you for that explanation! I always try to learn from each repair and this helps me understand. I have all older games so repair is necessary.

#18 3 years ago

Ok the wires seem good so I will pull the board and reflow those pins. I already repinned the connectors. I need to wait for a fuse before I can check it though. No more 1.5 slow blow fuses now.

1 week later
#19 3 years ago

I got the fuse in and still the same thing. I guess I need to test those paths with a logic probe to see what is happening with those signals next. That will be tomorrow.

#20 3 years ago

Quench thank you! It ended up being a bad crimp on the blu / yel wire. Now I need to find a lift bar or fix this homemade one that is on mine and it will be back up and running.

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