(Topic ID: 305837)

Need electrical 101 for making a circuit with blinking LEDs

By Lhyrgoif

2 years ago


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    #1 2 years ago

    I'm planning to make my own blinking candles for my scared stiff skull pile. I already had two fake candles at home with a built in blinking LED that operates on a 3v lithium battery so I want to use those.

    My plan is to make this the easiest possible way and hook them up to the GI in the game. First I thought about simply adding two suitable resistors in series (a simple voltage divider circuit) and get my ~3v DC from there. After thinking a bit more I realized that the blinking LED probably won't flicker "randomly" if it doesnt get feeded with continuous DC instead of half rectified AC.

    Is there any simple circuits I could build to fix this or do I have to get a rectifier (basically 4 diodes) to properly convert AC to DC?

    What would I need to go from 6.3AC to ~3v DC?

    I know some basic electrical stuff but AC makes things more complicated imo

    #2 2 years ago
    Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

    I'm planning to make my own blinking candles for my scared stiff skull pile. I already had two fake candles at home with a built in blinking LED that operates on a 3v lithium battery so I want to use those.
    My plan is to make this the easiest possible way and hook them up to the GI in the game. First I thought about simply adding two suitable resistors in series (a simple voltage divider circuit) and get my ~3v DC from there. After thinking a bit more I realized that the blinking LED probably won't flicker "randomly" if it doesnt get feeded with continuous DC instead of half rectified AC.
    Is there any simple circuits I could build to fix this or do I have to get a rectifier (basically 4 diodes) to properly convert AC to DC?
    What would I need to go from 6.3AC to ~3v DC?
    I know some basic electrical stuff but AC makes things more complicated imo
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    Standard pinball diode block used on most power boards. I just did that on my Bally project so I could add a DC buck booster I had kicking around to make back box lighting adjustable.
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    #3 2 years ago
    Quoted from gdonovan:

    Standard pinball diode block used on most power boards.

    Care to elaborate, what's a "diode block"?

    I know I can make my own rectifier with four diodes, is that what you are suggesting?

    That would give my LED about 5.1v DC right (considering each diode lowers about 0.6v)?

    So that rectifier and then the voltage divider circuit after to get down to 3v?

    Edit: somehow I didn't see that picture before answering.

    #4 2 years ago
    Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

    Care to elaborate, what's a "diode block"?
    I know I can make my own rectifier with four diodes, is that what you are suggesting?

    Yes.

    #5 2 years ago

    I would not fuck around changing voltages. Can you solder? If so, I would research Arduino Random Led Circuits. They are simple to build: one Arduino, some LEDs, resistors, etc.

    You can use less than 20 lines of code to control the LEDs. You can use the internal receptacle to power the Arduino. You won't risk fucking up the gi in your game and if you want to remove the LED candles later you simple unplug everything. You can also customize the LEDs later on.

    https://makersportal.com/blog/2018/2/2/arduino-randomly-blinking-multiple-leds-with-only-9-lines-of-code

    #6 2 years ago

    If you wire them in series, will they still run off 5V?

    #7 2 years ago
    Quoted from RatShack:

    If you wire them in series, will they still run off 5V?

    I tried earlier to run one of them on 5v DC and it blinked as it should but no idea if it will burn out after a while (there are no markings so I don't know their specifications).

    My guess is that if I put them in serial when the first LED turns off the second after looses all power and goes off too? Probably only good to put them in parallel as I want the flickering to look random.

    #8 2 years ago

    Looking at bridge rectifiers. If I can choose between a bridge rated to say 50V 2A and another with 600V 6A and all other specs are the same (even price) except for the physical size that doesn't matter in my case then there is no reason to not go for the higher rated one right?

    I know it's overkill for this project but still, why buy an inferior product for about the same price or am I missing something here?

    #9 2 years ago

    I used these for a project maybe they could work for you. https://lighthouseleds.com/20ma-led-current-limiter-driver.html

    #10 2 years ago

    Did this on my Seawitch- Fuse to protect circuit, bridge to change 6V AC to DC, buck booster adjustable DC output to panel strips.

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    #11 2 years ago

    https://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Electronics-Projects-Beginners-Electronic/dp/B017S00DJ2/ref=asc_df_B017S00DJ2/

    I've used kits like this before and they work fine. I'm sure there's a random flame style too.

    #12 2 years ago
    Quoted from pinzrfun:

    amazon.com link »
    I've used kits like this before and they work fine. I'm sure there's a random flame style too.

    There might be kits that fit my needs but the existing led candles I dismantled to use doesn't just flicker on and off but rather fade in and out in a seemingly random pattern, more similar to a real candle. Buying a kit unseen I might end up with something less realistic looking.

    Some may wonder why I just don't buy a finished mod instead but I like having a project that isn't too complicated and be able to learn more about electronics at the same time.

    #13 2 years ago
    Quoted from gdonovan:

    Did this on my Seawitch- Fuse to protect circuit, bridge to change 6V AC to DC, buck booster adjustable DC output to panel strips.
    [quoted image][quoted image]

    Looks like a really neat solution. Having an adjustable output sound very flexible too.

    #14 2 years ago
    Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

    Looks like a really neat solution. Having an adjustable output sound very flexible too.

    Yes, I can adjust the light output depending on which backglass I have in the cabinet and lighting conditions. I was even toying with a relay to change the lamp brightness between attract and play modes.

    I had all the parts kicking around so it was nothing new out of pocket. If you want to save a few pennies could always substitute a fixed resistor value for the buck booster.

    #15 2 years ago

    You can get an LED "Fire" bulb that simulates fire from Comet. They come in bayonet or wedge style. They come in red or blue, but the red actually looks more like fire. See attached link:
    https://www.cometpinball.com/products/fire-bulbs?_pos=1&_sid=d36b3a564&_ss=r

    #16 2 years ago
    Quoted from Dent00:

    You can get an LED "Fire" bulb that simulates fire from Comet. They come in bayonet or wedge style. They come in red or blue, but the red actually looks more like fire. See attached link:
    https://www.cometpinball.com/products/fire-bulbs?_pos=1&_sid=d36b3a564&_ss=r

    The fire LEDs are neat, but they are not random, and look like flashing red and white lights at best. Very very much NOT like fire.
    Don't get wrong, I still use them in certain situations (the candle on the backglass of Scare Stiff comes to mind) but they are terrible as far as 'reality" is concerned.

    I also used the blue flame on Scared Stiff for the TV. Turned out half decent, but its definitely a predetermined pattern.

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