(Topic ID: 119980)

Need Crescendo parts *advice*..


By Frax

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 17 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by bflagg
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#1 4 years ago

I really really want to have this thing playable at TPF, really pushing my luck at this point, but if I can make it happen...it's going to happen. I only have a few gaps in my knowledge on what I need to order from PBR at this point.

Most critical is I have absolutely no clue at all what the leg length for this era game is. The legs I have are crap, I won't have time to un-stick the rusted levelers before TPF. Don't want to pay for new legs at this point, but I have little choice, so I do want to make sure I get the "correct" ones for the game.

Next is the flipper shafts. I need to order parts probably ASAP, I may not be able to get the game pulled out for a few days, anyone know offhand if this game uses the thick or thin flipper shafts? Frankly, I could probably get away with not even replacing these, but I figure it would just be easier to bulletproof mechs now while doing the playfield swap. Flipper seemed plenty strong when I fired it up to test but you know how it goes.. I never trust anything to work 6 months later, much less in a show environment.

Last is the side rails and flipper buttons.. this is really non-critical, I'm not doing this before TPF. There's just not time to get into cabinet/coin door restoration work with everything else I have going on. I tried to measure the bottom of the flipper button hole to the bottom of the rail, but I don't have calipers, I can't tell if there's a difference or not. If someone knows if these are supposed to be symmetrical or the non-symmetrical (one side with a slightly lower flipper button?) would appreciate the info so I don't end up ordering a 90$ incorrect part at some point.

#2 4 years ago

Maybe this will help with legs.
http://www.pbresource.com/legs.html#most

I use a PVC tube and generic clr to remove rust and refurbish legs. A shot or two of pb blaster has worked wonders on leveler bolts, though I sometimes still need to put a wrench on the leveler and tap it repeatedly(similar to an impact wrench) to get it loose.

#3 4 years ago

Josh,

Hit up Ken Head for 31" legs. He should have a few spare sets. At least one set available. (used) Also hit him up for flipper parts or just EM parts in general. He has a set of side rails from my central park that I sure he would sell you. They weren't bad by any means and I shouldn't have paid 80 dollars for new side rails when mine were easy to regrain. My loss will be your gain and Ken Head's gain for selling them to you. Changing out side rails is stupid easy with a putty knife. Again hit up Ken Head. He could be your one stop shop for spare EM parts.

#4 4 years ago
Quoted from btw75:

Maybe this will help with legs.
http://www.pbresource.com/legs.html#most
I use a PVC tube and generic clr to remove rust and refurbish legs. A shot or two of pb blaster has worked wonders on leveler bolts, though I sometimes still need to put a wrench on the leveler and tap it repeatedly(similar to an impact wrench) to get it loose.

Been wanting to try the PVC tube and CLR for a long time, but without a garage and kids around....I don't really want a 3 foot long pipe full of chemicals sitting around in my living room. =\

I could probably bust the levelers loose with WD and the heatgun and like you said whacking on a wrench, but really...this game is going the full restoration route anyways.. I'm never getting my money out of it. Might as well have the new legs.

I will probably talk to Ken about the same time I am ready to get the cabinet done, Dan. I can't imagine having anyone else do it as long as Ken is an option for me. If he can clean up the side rails, great, if not....80 bucks isn't horri-bad when I will already have about 1500 in a Crescendo.

#5 4 years ago

^^^

well, you could always just put the tube outside...

that being said, i tried cleaning legs exactly 1 time, and have ordered repros from pbr ever since if needed... i spent a boatload of time and didn't get the results i wanted...

as far as the siderails go though... as long as they are straight and aren't REALLY bad, it's pretty easy to regrain them and make them look as good as new... i was able to clean up a pair that were scratched quite badly in a couple hours...

#6 4 years ago
Quoted from ccotenj:

^^^
well, you could always just put the tube outside...
that being said, i tried cleaning legs exactly 1 time, and have ordered repros from pbr ever since if needed... i spent a boatload of time and didn't get the results i wanted...
as far as the siderails go though... as long as they are straight and aren't REALLY bad, it's pretty easy to regrain them and make them look as good as new... i was able to clean up a pair that were scratched quite badly in a couple hours...

Where?

I have no garage, no yard, and my patio, which is my only "private" outside area to my condo is behind five pins to get to the door. =P

Anyways...siderails are the least of my concern right now. The cabinet is gonna be ugly for TPF if it shows up at all, no biggie.

#7 4 years ago

$1500 in a Crescendo???

Step away from the game.

But seriously, $1500 in a Crescendo?

#8 4 years ago

well, yea, now that you put it that way... that does kinda eliminate outside as an option...

#9 4 years ago
Quoted from MikeO:

$1500 in a Crescendo???
Step away from the game.
But seriously, $1500 in a Crescendo?

If you don't like it then don't buy it.

Oh wait, it's not for sale, and won't be.

Did you see my playfield thread?

Yes, when you have no space, no EM parts stash to rob, and have to pay everyone to do things like clearing a playfield and restoring the cabinet, it gets spendy fast. A lot of parts out of my game are going to go back out into the community for other people to restore, simply because I do not have the space to polish coindoors, redo rails, etc etc...

Roughly:

150 for the core game.
60 for the spare playfield we repainted
150 Harbor Freight parts for airbrush and compressor
100 Paint supplies and frisket
150 to have the PF cleared
20 Playfield glass
600 PBR parts, on the list I have so far... full rebuilds for pops, flippers, score reels and restoration parts.

That's 1280 right there, and that's not even touching the cabinet repaint, and assuming a very cheap 50 bucks shipping for the PBR parts, which isn't realistic most likely considering siderails and legs in there...

#10 4 years ago

I was feeling a bit snarky this morning. No offense intended, Frax. I should have put some kind of a smiley face after my comments.

I did see the playfield thread. Under a black light it will be amazing.

I've overspent on a game before that was worth it to me. Instead of restoring a game I try to buy (at least) two examples and make the best of them into one that I keep and get the remaining game(s) running well and sell it/them off.

Good luck getting it running for TPF. It's an EM and I love a good playing EM. I look forward to playing it if it makes it.

#11 4 years ago

No worries. I know some of my projects are outside what people consider practical occasionally.

I did check around to see if I could buy a parts game, but honestly, this game and it's sibilings are so rare at this point, spending 400 plus another 400 shipping just wasn't practical, neither was spending 600 to buy the NOS playfield. Frankly, we bought the game for the backglass, and for me to have a playfield to learn frisket+airbrush repairs with. But as we got more and more done, I just love the cheesiness of the retro-flower-hippie thing, and having it be UV-reactive was just the over-the-top part that really got me in the "okay, we're gonna keep this thing" mood.

I liked the two EM's we've had before, but it's either relatively rare or people are not letting them go (seems that most of these have been destroyed at this point....took us two years just to find this game, and we were really only looking for a backglass..), it meets my minimum criteria for keeping an EM (drop targets OR spinners, 2" flippers, and shots that require skill not luck), it's stuff I know how to work on (Gottlieb, lol...), and it fits my wife's art criteria (since she wanted it for the backglass and playfield in the first place!).

I also like the fact it's the first drop target game for Gottlieb, so I think just on a historical level, it's worth restoring for that reason too. If I could do it any cheaper and still have it come out looking like a new game, I would... I'm a cheapskate, after all. At the end of the day, I want to end up with four or five REALLY super-clean games. This, Metallica, Tron....those are all staying. I don't know about the rest yet.

#12 4 years ago
Quoted from Frax:

Been wanting to try the PVC tube and CLR for a long time, but without a garage and kids around....I don't really want a 3 foot long pipe full of chemicals sitting around in my living room. =\

I have had very good success with Evaporust in the PVC tube. You can get it somewhat locally (autoparts stores)A gallon is about $25 but you can reuse it several times. About 3 quarts in a tube big enough to do two legs at a time. Reason I quoted your concern is this product claims to be totally safe, even for casual disposal. Just rinses off with water, no harsh fumes.

#13 4 years ago
Quoted from stashyboy:

I have had very good success with Evaporust in the PVC tube. You can get it somewhat locally (autoparts stores)A gallon is about $25 but you can reuse it several times. About 3 quarts in a tube big enough to do two legs at a time. Reason I quoted your concern is this product claims to be totally safe, even for casual disposal. Just rinses off with water, no harsh fumes.

Fair enough. To be honest I'm more worried about my kids opening it up when we aren't looking and making a god-awful mess than the actual chemicals themselves... wood parquet floor tiles means that any kind of liquid really goes right through it to the base where you can't get at it. It was great flooring when I lived alone and had no pins. Now....not so much.

I dunno. I gotta look and see if we even have all four legs. Kinda at the point though where it's like...you spend 25+cost of the PVC parts, and the time to make the cleaner setup, or 54 bucks and shipping for brand new legs? Kind of a wash to me.

#14 4 years ago
Quoted from Frax:

I dunno. I gotta look and see if we even have all four legs. Kinda at the point though where it's like...you spend 25+cost of the PVC parts, and the time to make the cleaner setup, or 54 bucks and shipping for brand new legs? Kind of a wash to me.

For just one set, you're right, though shipping heavy legs to Texas will cost you. I restore pins as a hobby, so use it 3-4 times a year. Tube expense is one time. I use the rubber end caps that have stainless steel hose clamps. Never had a leak and if your kids are an issue, they would need a wrench/nut driver to open it. The other factor there, is the original legs are better IMO, slightly heavier gauge, no added threaded insert on bottom, and the finish (assuming you don't have deep pitting) is much, much better. PBR has to keep the cost reasonable, so the plating is not a mirror finish (just like their other repro parts) I give PBR all my parts business, but if original is an option, I prefer that (admittedly, being a bit OCD/purist here)

#15 4 years ago
Quoted from stashyboy:

the original legs are better IMO

I'm with you on this, however, the legs I have are pretty yuck, I don't even know IF I have *four* of them (we didn't look that hard the other night ), and they are just legs the guy picked up..he basically had a huge barn full of games. I wouldn't say it was mis-managed the way he was storing stuff, but you could tell that to him, legs did not go with a specific game, neither did stuff like leg bolts or other generic hardware. He just picked up some legs the same size, and gave them to us.

I still don't even know if 31" is the right size for this game or not. If Steve doesn't know, just going to assume it is. PBR site says legs on multiplayer games varies. Doubt anyone would know unless they have the parts manual/loadout book or whatever you call that thing for that era of games.

With what I did for the playfield, this game couldn't ever be billed as an "original" anyways.

#16 4 years ago

Josh, buy the legs from PBR at this point since you are going the full restore route. Enjoy a new coin door and coin chute when the money is right especially when you are keeping the machine. Buy the rails that Ken has. The rails that Ken took off my Central Park were more than fine and can be regrained with ease. I am sure Ken could fix your current rails *shrug* Yeah, I am still astonished and amazed by my repaint of my Central Park along with Howard's North Star that Ken painted. Well, well worth the money.

As for the nay sayers of 1500 on a Crescendo. Take this into consideration. I have a title I spent 600 on and I am putting another 500 in a repaint and 200 dollars in PBR parts into it. Why you ask? Because it is my game and a few hundred dollars over budget doesn't mean jack to me. I am not going to say which game it is yet but even repainted on a good day the game is maybe worth 800-900 dollars.

My Central Park math of what I spent.
900 for base game
700 for PBR parts on two different PBR orders I took out all shipping and parts like bulbs and balls that I ordered for other games.
500 for a repaint - credits for parts that the restorer wanted for his game. So lets just call it 500 dollars.
100 dollars for some miscellaneous stuff like redone bal arch with new sticker. installation of 10 targets (re-rivets and installing a new monkey) some very, very minor touchups on the play field. Many hours of researching the proper paint match and many hours of working out gremlins in scoring issues. 100 dollars was a GIFT in my honest opinion.

Grand total 2200 dollars for a game worth 1600-2000 (on a good day) in restored condition. Do I care about going overboard by about 400 dollars? Not really because it would have costed me 400 dollars in shipping. Plus it was great to see the talents of a local friend and restorer work his magic. I can proudly display this game. People will ask "Who restored this game?" and I will be able to point in Ken Head's direction and have them even meet the man and say hello.

#17 4 years ago

If you want to split shipping on some legs from PBR let me know. I need a set of 28 1/2 plain chrome. - Barry

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