(Topic ID: 212607)

Need Assistance With Wiring a Rectifier Board


By BrooklynBaller

2 years ago



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  • Latest reply 2 years ago by BrooklynBaller
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    #1 2 years ago

    I was hosting a party at my house and my Playboy machine (1978), which has been good to me for over 20 years, went out on me. Of course, it would happen after I had played it during the week before and all was fine. I’m not an electrician, but I have dabbled into some of my games with good results. This time on the Playboy machine, I noticed that there were a few burnt areas around some of the molex connectors that are connected to the rectifier board seated on top of the transformer assembly. So, I ordered a complete new set consisting of new rectifier board, the 3 molex connectors and associated hardware. Somehow, I was able to disconnect the wiring on back of the rectifier board and transfer all the wiring to the new rectifier board. When I got to replacing all three Molex connectors J1, J2, and J3 somehow I misplaced the J1 connector and still can’t find it anywhere. So, I will get another one tomorrow. I also cut all the pin wires from the old Molex boards (J2 and J3) and reconnected them with the kit’s trifulcon pins. Wow…watta job, but I think I did it correctly by doing each of the wires separately. Now, the hard part. The old J1 Molex (still connected) looks like it’s been tampered with and the red wire is attached to the orange wire by someone who soldered them together. Therefore, the sequence of the wires doesn’t match the diagram in the manual. Nor does the amount of wires connected to J1. So, another pin fanatic friend of mine, suggested that I just put the wires, as they are, in the new Molex J1. Since I don't have one at this time, I just reconnected the old J1 molex to the new board since all of the other connectors on the board looked OK except for the burnt one on the end. I attached it to the new board and turned it on...while my friend was on the other end of the phone in case I blew up the machine and me. So, when I turned it on, only the illumination on the playfield is the only thing that happened.

    Does anyone have, or know, the colors and the sequence, of the wires that attach to J1 (a schematic of the J2 and J3 would be of help, tool)?? The manual shows the sequence but not the colors. Even more frustrating, is that the red and orange wires are soldered together!!! And, even though there are supposed to be 6 wires connected to the Molex connector, there are only 5. Maybe the red wire is supposed to be connected to one of the terminals???? I tried to send a few pictures but I can’t seem to get my cell phone to send the pictures to my computer (????). I can try again tomorrow if anyone can assist me. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.

    #2 2 years ago
    Quoted from BrooklynBaller:

    I was hosting a party at my house and my Playboy machine (1978), which has been good to me for over 20 years, went out on me. Of course, it would happen after I had played it during the week before and all was fine. I’m not an electrician, but I have dabbled into some of my games with good results. This time on the Playboy machine, I noticed that there were a few burnt areas around some of the molex connectors that are connected to the rectifier board seated on top of the transformer assembly. So, I ordered a complete new set consisting of new rectifier board, the 3 molex connectors and associated hardware. Somehow, I was able to disconnect the wiring on back of the rectifier board and transfer all the wiring to the new rectifier board. When I got to replacing all three Molex connectors J1, J2, and J3 somehow I misplaced the J1 connector and still can’t find it anywhere. So, I will get another one tomorrow. I also cut all the pin wires from the old Molex boards (J2 and J3) and reconnected them with the kit’s trifulcon pins. Wow…watta job, but I think I did it correctly by doing each of the wires separately. Now, the hard part. The old J1 Molex (still connected) looks like it’s been tampered with and the red wire is attached to the orange wire by someone who soldered them together. Therefore, the sequence of the wires doesn’t match the diagram in the manual. Nor does the amount of wires connected to J1. So, another pin fanatic friend of mine, suggested that I just put the wires, as they are, in the new Molex J1. Since I don't have one at this time, I just reconnected the old J1 molex to the new board since all of the other connectors on the board looked OK except for the burnt one on the end. I attached it to the new board and turned it on...while my friend was on the other end of the phone in case I blew up the machine and me. So, when I turned it on, only the illumination on the playfield is the only thing that happened.
    Does anyone have, or know, the colors and the sequence, of the wires that attach to J1 (a schematic of the J2 and J3 would be of help, tool)?? The manual shows the sequence but not the colors. Even more frustrating, is that the red and orange wires are soldered together!!! And, even though there are supposed to be 6 wires connected to the Molex connector, there are only 5. Maybe the red wire is supposed to be connected to one of the terminals???? I tried to send a few pictures but I can’t seem to get my cell phone to send the pictures to my computer (????). I can try again tomorrow if anyone can assist me. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.

    Some nice well lit pictures would help if you could put some up.

    #3 2 years ago

    I've gotta call AT&T and see what the problem is. I'll try to get the pics up ASAP. Thanks for your reply, cottonm4.....

    #4 2 years ago

    Each wire has a two digit code in the schematics which designates its color and the color of the stripe if it has one.

    There is a table at the bottom of one of the pages that lists all of the color codes.

    #5 2 years ago
    Quoted from dothedoo:

    Each wire has a two digit code in the schematics which designates its color and the color of the stripe if it has one.
    There is a table at the bottom of one of the pages that lists all of the color codes.

    Thanks for the reply. However, I don't see it. I have the original manual. Looking at the bottom of the page for "Transformer Assembly" there is a box that is located towards the right/middle that has 3e, 2d, 2c, etc. but does not show colors. I'm not sure where else to look. Can you be more specific?? Thanks..

    #6 2 years ago

    JUST FOUND IT...The "Wire Color Code" is on the last page of the Manual. THANKS!!!!

    #7 2 years ago

    I spoke too soon. Although I did find the wire color code, on the page for the transformer assembly that shows the J1, J2 and J3, it does NOT show the numbers for the color for any of the terminals. If there is another page that shows the associated numbers, please let me know.

    Another idea I had is if someone that owns a 1978 Playboy can take a picture(s) of the J1, J2, and J3 connectors on the rectifier board, that shows the colors/wires it would be greatly appreciated. I know it's asking a lot, but that's what we're here for, isn't it?? Thanks......

    #8 2 years ago

    The backbox wiring schematic has all the color codes of the wires. If you are missing it you can download a copy here. http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/1823/Bally_1978_Playboy_Schematics.pdf

    Pay attention to the A2 transformer connections

    #9 2 years ago

    It is easiest to transplant the "E" transformer hook up wires one at a time so you don't get mixed up.

    http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#How_To_Hook_Up_a_Bally_AS-2518-18_Rectifier_Board

    Pages from Dolly Manual Complete (resized).png
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    #10 2 years ago
    #11 2 years ago

    WOW, Spiro. I used to hate you years ago, but now I think I'm falling in love....in "like" anyway. The wiring for the J1, J2 and J3 is exactly what I needed. I'll get back to this issue when I have connected the dots. In the meantime, I have been on the phone with AT&T about my issues of not being able to send pictures through my cell phone.

    Also, want to thank all that have assisted in this 'project'. If, after I successfully attach all wiring, and double checked it, I hope the machine works...else I was told that I may need an MPU board. We'll see....

    #12 2 years ago

    Was just about to post this. I did my Paragon rectifier board. J1 wires were soldered directly to the board, and this with the other wires on the connector, was a good reference to ensure everything was pinned to the right connector.

    Lots of other good info on his site as well.

    #13 2 years ago

    I'm still working with AT&T to get my cell phone to send pics. They've sent me to Apple. Waiting for a call-back from Apple. Wait until you see my pics of the wiring that I have to deal with. Pics do make the job so much easier. I'll be sending pics of my messed-up wiring that I can now figure out (I hope). Stay tuned.....

    #14 2 years ago

    OK...I'm still working with AT&T and Apple...both at the same time, believe it or not. To be continued tomorrow as to sending pictures. So, no pictures now.

    Next...I double-checked all the connections I made yesterday to the back of the Rectifier Board and they were all correct as to the picture (numbers and associated colored wires). I connected the (new-er) Molex connector, to the wires, on J1. I check all the connections on the J1, J2, and J3 Molex and compared them to the pictures (from Spiroagnew, above). All looked correct and in the correct order. Placed the Molex connectors into their respective pins on J1-J3. Plugged the game in. Stood back, phoned a friend (just in case) and turned the machine on. Nothing new...only the playfield lights came on, same as yesterday when the red and orange wires were soldered together (I separated them today and attached to their appropriate pin). Not the flashing that's supposed to be on the MPU board as it specifies in the manual. My friend has an extra MPU board, so I plan on swapping the out and see what happens.

    HOWEVER, I'm not positive if I've installed the J1-J3 connectors in the correct directions/positions. I know, you're saying that there are 'spares' or 'keys' so as to make it easy to put them in only in one direction (one way) so you can't make a mistake. Or, so I thought. I'll give an example later once my head clears from all the 'cell' phone calls today. In the meantime, looking at the pictures of the J1-J3 connectors, and associated colors: does the #1 start at the left in each picture or are the Milox connectors upside down? I don't have pictures of the boards before I started (I know...I should have). Maybe I put one (?) of the boards in backwards. Some of my wires are missing. For instance, I don't have a wire for J3 in the 12th position that shows as Gray (Zero Crossing Input). How important is that???

    Thanks, again....More to come....Whew!

    #15 2 years ago
    Quoted from BrooklynBaller:

    I'll give an example later once my head clears from all the 'cell' phone calls today. In the meantime, looking at the pictures of the J1-J3 connectors, and associated colors: does the #1 start at the left in each picture or are the Milox connectors upside down? I don't have pictures of the boards before I started (I know...I should have).

    The "KEY" position on each connector lines up with the spot where there isn't a male pin on the board.

    Pin #1 should be marked on the board with a "1", if not, it's the first in the row of pins on the rectifier.

    Try to get those pictures up. They'll help us help you!

    #16 2 years ago
    Quoted from BrooklynBaller:

    I'm still working with AT&T and Apple.

    That should be fun. AT&T says its Apple's fault and Apple says the problem with AT&T

    #17 2 years ago

    This is the next installment of "Why Does My Head Not Follow My Brain". Still no pictures to send you. Waiting for call from Apple and then, hopefully, connect with AT&T so they can put their 'heads' together and figure out why I can't send pics (or just an email) out through my cell.

    Now back to the program:

    I know it's difficult to work with me not having any of my pics and I know it's frustrating for you guys and it's the same for me. At this point, I just want to make sure that my J1-J3 Molex are connected in the correct direction/position. So, here's my current 'bottom-line' question. "Am I connecting the Molex connectors in the correct direction?" Here's why I'm asking:

    Specific to J2 Molex - The pictures of the 3 Molex connectors with their associated wires and colors are very helpful. HOWEVER, the pins that are attached to the rectifier board do not match to the pin sequence on the Molex. Specific" There are 10 'slots' on the Molex. There are 7 wires that are attached to the Molex. There are 3 slots that do not have wires attached: Numbering left to right (1-10) the 3rd and 4th position are marked as "spare" on the diagram with the 8th slot marked as "key". OK, so far? Continuing: The Rectifier Board: When viewing it in it's correct location on the right side of the backboard, going left to right, there are 10 pins attached to the board, with number 8 being the only one that does not have a pin. Since the Molex has 3 open slots and the board has only 1 open slot, this Molex can be placed right side up OR upside down. I understand that the 'key' is shown to be in the 8th position on the Molex but since there are 3 open pins on the board, I just want to make sure that I am attaching this Molex in the correct position.

    Now, take a deep breath, stop calling me "stupid" and get back to me with an answer that I will understand. Just imagine what I'm going through. Be patient and gentle...it's my first time.

    As I say in my "sign-off" signature on my emails at home, "'I Try To Think..But, Nothing Happens'...as said by a Distant Relative, Curly Howard"

    #18 2 years ago

    I knew there was an issue with the wiring. On the J3 diagram showing the pin connectors and related colors, it shows a "white/yellow"wire (marked as "selenoid bus") in the 13th position. There is no "white/yellow" wire connected to my new, or old, P3 Molex connector nor is there a "white/Yellow" wire connected to the transformer as per the diagrams. Maybe this is why my machine is not working. I was able to identify all of the other wires and connectors and know they are correctly installed. Not sure what to do at this time. To those of you that are still interested, I'll keep you posted. Thanks again, for all your assistance.

    #20 2 years ago

    In my original Playboy schematic, it says N/U next to the 13th wire. So I'm guessing Playboy didn't need it.

    #21 2 years ago
    Quoted from BrooklynBaller:

    I understand that the 'key' is shown to be in the 8th position on the Molex but since there are 3 open pins on the board, I just want to make sure that I am attaching this Molex in the correct position.

    The molex plug is supposed to have a little key in the eighth hole so that it can only be put in one way. The key in the plug must align with the missing spot on the rectifier board.

    #22 2 years ago

    I understand where the 'key' comes into place. The schematic that you mention that says "N/U" would, probably, account for why my wire is not present. Tomorrow, I'll order a new MPU Board. I don't know what else to do to get it working. Only the playfield lights come on.

    #23 2 years ago

    OK. Deep breath. In... Out... In... Out... If your GI lights are coming on, that means your outlet, filter and transformer are all fine which means you have power to your rectifier board. The next step is to see if you have power where you need it on the board. Disconnect J1 and J3 from the rectifier leaving only J2 plugged in. Turn the machine on and read the test points. I'm assuming at this point that you have a multi-meter and know how to use it. If you don't know how to read it I can help. If you don't have a meter you should get one. 40 year old pinball machines, while reasonably reliable, will get cranky at some point.

    Shawn

    #24 2 years ago

    Is the LED on the mpu coming on? If so how many times does it blink?

    #25 2 years ago

    Mk1Mod0 - Thanks for the 'pick-me-up' email. I've had it for today. Yes, I have a really good multi-meter. I'll get with you tomorrow...just not sure how to use it on the Playboy.

    Barakandl - No, nothing comes from the MPU. I know about the 7 times it's supposed to blink. Thanks, anyway. To be continued tomorrow.

    BTW: I can send pictures now. Wow! G'night All....

    #26 2 years ago

    You have been playing with the rectifier board that supplies ALL power to everything else in the machine.

    I think it's wise to get out the schematic and your meter and make sure that ALL voltages are coming from the power supply as intended before going much further.

    It won't be much use fitting a replacement MPU f the existing one isn't being fed the correct (or any) voltage from the supply. The new one would also NOT work just as well as the board that's fitted now.

    It's pretty simple wiring but not terribly well annotated on the board and the wires loosely soldered to the underside of the board from the transformer don't help matters as far as identifying things.

    If you identify and work through each set of wires you should be able to confirm correct connection.

    #27 2 years ago

    Thanks, Homepin for your information. Sounds a lot like Mk1Mod0's post, above. I'm OK with testing continuity, but I'm not familiar with checking voltage and such.

    Mk1Mod0: I sure would like to save some $$ if my MPU board is good. If you can walk me through this testing phase as you suggested, it would be most appreciated. Just not sure how to proceed. If you're still willing to help me with this diagnostic testing maybe we can communicate through my personal email, or phone call. I'm not sure if we want to take up other member's time going back and forth with the testing on Pinside. Or, is this type of communication is actually allowed on this site?? What's best for us?

    Once again, thanks to all...

    #28 2 years ago

    Power Supply "Test Points" (TP's).
    Bally rectifier boards have five "test points" where the proper output voltages can be checked. To do this, the game need to be powered on and in "attract" mode. The best place to pick up ground is at resistor R1, at its lead closest to the fuses (or on rectifier board AS2518-54, on the right side of the resistor). This info applies to all three generations of rectifier boards.

    TP1 (on AS2518-18) = 5.4 volts DC +/- .8 volts (4.6 to 6.2 volts). Fuse F1, bridge BR1. Used to power the "switched illumination" (feature lamps).
    TP1 (on AS2518-49) = 6.5 volts DC (5.8 to 7.2 volts). Fuse F1, voltage regulator RP1 and RP2. Used to power the "switched illumination" (feature lamps).
    TP2 = 230 volts DC, +/- 27 volts (203 to 257 volts). Fuse F2, diodes CR1 to CR4. Used to power the score displays.
    TP3 = 11.9 volts DC, +/- 1.4 volts (10.5 to 13.3 volts). Fuse F3, bridge BR2. Used to power the regulated +5 volts DC for the game's logic circuits.
    TP4 = 7.3 volts AC, +/- .9 volts (6.4 to 8.2 volts). Fuse F5. Used to power the general illumination.
    TP5 = 43 volts DC, +/- 5.4 volts (47.6 to 48.4 volts). Fuse F4, bridge BR3. Used to power all the coils.
    If getting a voltage below the above value ranges, that associated bridge rectifier is probably bad and needs to be replaced. If TP4 is out of limits, the transformer may need to be replaced! TP4 is an AC voltage that doesn't get converted to DC, and hence doesn't have a bridge rectifier.

    I checked mine but used the braided ground wire for ground, instead of the R1 resistor that this says to use.

    All this info can be found at this link:

    http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/ballyss/rep/index1.htm#ps

    This video might help you too:

    #29 2 years ago
    Quoted from Homepin:

    It won't be much use fitting a replacement MPU f the existing one isn't being fed the correct (or any) voltage from the supply. The new one would also NOT work just as well as the board that's fitted now.

    Yeah I agree and why I asked. If the LED is completely out the MPU is missing 12v at the least.... A new one is not going to get you going.

    With just the driver board and rectifier board hooked up check voltages at test points. Start at the rectifier. Then driver. then MPU. Important ones for the MPU is +12v and +5v(driver board takes 12v and makes it into +5v).

    #30 2 years ago

    Finally got my pictures here. See attachments. If you watch the video titled, "testing Bally Power Supplies 1977-1983" you will see that it does not contain the same rectifier board as my pictures show of my new one. My new board has 6 led green lights towards the top of the board that light up when the machine is turned on. So, I don't know where to place the red probe from my meter. In my pics, you can also see what I was dealing with on my old J1 and J3 boards that show burns in some of the slots. Also, in the pic of the old J1 , you can see where the red wire was soldered to the orange wire. I desoldered the red wire from the orange wire and put the red wire in position 1 on the new Molex. Maybe now, some will understand why this whole process was, and still is, so difficult for me. NEXT???

    NEW RECT1 (resized).JPG

    OLD J1 (resized).JPG

    NEW RECT2 (resized).JPG

    OLD J3 -2 (resized).JPG

    OLD J3 - 1 (resized).JPG

    #31 2 years ago

    Although this is not keeping your MPU from booting up, fix the J1 plug or it will burn up again or accidentally short to something. The red wire spliced in with the orange should go to pin eight. If you look at the Plug Connectors page in the manual pin eight is labeled as a red wire (10 code) and pin 5 is orange (70 code). These are high current GI pins, so you have to spread out the load.

    The test points on your rectifier board are next to the LED lights. If your 12v light on the rectifier board is lit up, go to your driver board then and check for +12v there on test point five (TP5).

    #32 2 years ago

    In the third picture it looks like he did fix the GI on the J1 plug. So if all the green lights come on I would assume that means your voltages are within the needed parameters. The next step is to plug in the solenoid board and check the voltages there. Here's the relevant test points.

    Shawn

    SOLtps (resized).jpg

    #33 2 years ago

    The test points for the rectifier are at the top of the board TP1 thru TP6 which is label ground.

    The voltages for each are shown under the test points. Put your red probe on the test point and the black probe on the ground and see what you get. Should be close to what it shown for a voltage under the test point. Put your meter on DC Voltage and check all points but not TP4 that is VoltsAC

    #34 2 years ago

    Thanks for all the replies and info. I'm still not in a position to 'test' anything with my meter. The person in the video points to testing on the rectifier board. Another person here on Pinside refers (I think) to the Selenoid Drive Board (which does not have any voltages shown under each point) unless you are talking about actually removing the SDB and looking at the underside for the voltage?? Sorry, but I'm not very good at this. I need very detailed instructions. Can you guys handle that? I don't know how else to put it. Thanks for your patience.

    #35 2 years ago

    The pictures that you posted are your rectifier which you can test just like the guy in the video. Your test point are on the top of the board with the voltages label under each point. Easy enough. Red probe to the TP and black probe to ground set you meter to volts dc with the exception of TP4 which is volts ac

    The drive board is the picture that, Mk1Mod0 ,posted and show where the test point are at. You do not have to remove the board just leave it in and turn the power on and do the checks just like on the other board.

    TP1 5 volts dc
    TP3 5 volts dc (not 1005 sure on this on, maybe someone can check on that one)
    TP5 11.9 volts dc

    Hope that helps.

    One other thing....you never said if you checked the fuse under the playfield. It's a 1 amp slow blow fuse and I have had just that go out for no reason, so check that just to make sure, quick and easy to check and replace.

    #36 2 years ago

    Thanks for all the info and suggestion. I'll be doing that soon.

    Quoted from timab2000:The pictures that you posted are your rectifier which you can test just like the guy in the video. Your test point are on the top of the board with the voltages label under each point. Easy enough. Red probe to the TP and black probe to ground set you meter to volts dc with the exception of TP4 which is volts ac
    The drive board is the picture that, Mk1Mod0 ,posted and show where the test point are at. You do not have to remove the board just leave it in and turn the power on and do the checks just like on the other board.
    TP1 5 volts dc
    TP3 5 volts dc (not 1005 sure on this on, maybe someone can check on that one)
    TP5 11.9 volts dc
    Hope that helps.
    One other thing....you never said if you checked the fuse under the playfield. It's a 1 amp slow blow fuse and I have had just that go out for no reason, so check that just to make sure, quick and easy to check and replace.

    Thanks for all the info and suggestion. I'll be doing that soon.

    1 week later
    #37 2 years ago
    Quoted from timab2000:

    The test points for the rectifier are at the top of the board TP1 thru TP6 which is label ground.
    The voltages for each are shown under the test points. Put your red probe on the test point and the black probe on the ground and see what you get. Should be close to what it shown for a voltage under the test point. Put your meter on DC Voltage and check all points but not TP4 that is VoltsAC

    OK. Finally was able to test. Here are the results from the Selenoid Driver Board: TP 1 = 4.73 Volts TP 5 = 17.4 Volts TP 3 = 17.3 Volts. What Now??

    #38 2 years ago
    Quoted from BrooklynBaller:

    OK. Finally was able to test. Here are the results from the Selenoid Driver Board: TP 1 = 4.73 Volts TP 5 = 17.4 Volts TP 3 = 17.3 Volts. What Now??

    Also, there is no voltage amount shown under each of the test points.

    #39 2 years ago
    Quoted from timab2000:

    The pictures that you posted are your rectifier which you can test just like the guy in the video. Your test point are on the top of the board with the voltages label under each point. Easy enough. Red probe to the TP and black probe to ground set you meter to volts dc with the exception of TP4 which is volts ac
    The drive board is the picture that, Mk1Mod0 ,posted and show where the test point are at. You do not have to remove the board just leave it in and turn the power on and do the checks just like on the other board.
    TP1 5 volts dc
    TP3 5 volts dc (not 1005 sure on this on, maybe someone can check on that one)
    TP5 11.9 volts dc
    Hope that helps.
    One other thing....you never said if you checked the fuse under the playfield. It's a 1 amp slow blow fuse and I have had just that go out for no reason, so check that just to make sure, quick and easy to check and replace.

    I do not see any fuse under the playfield. Could you please be more specific about it's location? Thanks.

    #40 2 years ago
    Quoted from BrooklynBaller:

    I do not see any fuse under the playfield. Could you please be more specific about it's location? Thanks.

    It is between the flippers.

    #41 2 years ago

    Oh, you mean on the underside of the playfield. I looked down at the bottom of the cabinet which faces up. I'll go look underneath the playfield. Thanks.

    #42 2 years ago

    OK. I did find a fuse, hopefully, the one you are referring to. It is located on the underside of the playfield, almost at the edge of the right flipper. Appears to be OK. Thanks.

    1 week later
    #43 2 years ago

    STSTUS: I checked all the connections everywhere and now the machine blows a fuse each time it is lit. I brought the Playboy to my tech. I'll update when repaired. Thanks to all that tried to help me fix this on my own.

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    $ 64.00
    $ 14.95
    $ 399.00
    Gameroom - Decorations
    Bent Mods
    $ 26.00
    Playfield - Other
    Pin Monk
    $ 39.50
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    The MOD Couple
    $ 7.00
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    3D Tech. Pinball Parts
    $ 30.00
    Playfield - Decals
    Pinball Pimp
    From: $ 218.00

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