(Topic ID: 41343)

Need a little help understanding LED Bulbs Mine are flickering

By Kzooandy

7 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 19 posts
  • 13 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by John_I
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders


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#1 7 years ago

First off, could somebody define GI lights? I searched and think i'm seeing "General Ilumination". Just need a confirmation or correction.

I'm working on my Fireball Classic, and have used some new LED lights behind the backglass, and in a few spots on the PF. I'd call these areas "GI" if my guess is correct.

Heres what I'm seeing though. If I use the lights in a Pop Bumper that only lights up if certain PF goals are met (like the rollover switch wire), or if i use them for the bonus numbers, 5, 10, 20, 30 etc up to 100 and 150 They are plenty bright, but they flicker like mad. Very annoying. All the regular incandescent filiment type bulbs just burn a steady state, but all the "feature" lights flicker.

Like I said the general lighting is fine, but the bonus, and special sockets cause the same brand of light to blink.

Any thoughts? Thanks for your help everyone.

#7 7 years ago

This sounds easy enough. Is 470 Ohms the magic number for any particular reason? I think for the money, I can solder in a few resistors fairly quickly. I like the lower cost option. I've been getting boarded out lately... lots of problems with the older Bally boards, and the "easy button" is to buy nice Alltek replacements.. but I've been bottom feeding a bit, and it seems every game needs at a minimum of one, and sometimes three boards.

Does it hurt if you had the resistor on the Incandescent socket, or do you have to install and remove resistors every time you switch bulb styles?

#10 7 years ago
Quoted from KenH:

The circuit is designed to drive at least a #44 bulb that draws 250ma.
The resistor will draw about 13 ma (I = V/R, 6/470). If you use a #47 instead, this only draws 150ma, so you would be well under 250ma total (150+13=163ma) using a #47 and leaving the resistor installed.
If you want to use a #44 though, you'd need to look up the current capability of the SCR on the Fireball Classic lamp driver board, and see if it can safely provide 263ma.
EDIT: I looked up the 2N5060 SCR, and it is rated for 800 ma max, so should be OK to leave the resistors mounted, even when using #44 lamps.

This has the 555 style lamps, but it looks like they are rated for the same amp draw about .25Amps at the 6.3 volts. Should also be ok.

Thanks for the tips.

#11 7 years ago

Ok after mulling it over, I broke down and put the new ALLTEK lamp driver in that I had set aside for Strikes And Spares. It required a short grounding cable be attached to the thick braided wire on a Tilt or Ball in play wire. I soldered it in lightly, and the flicker......is gone.
Looks like the problem is solved. I will save the other board for Strikes and Spares I guess.

Thanks for the tips everyone.

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