I posted this in the WCS owners thread, but figured I'd cast a wider net and see what ideas you guys might have.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/world-cup-soccer-94-owners-everyone-welcome/page/151#post-6987221

I recently acquired a WCS in a trade. The game was absolutely filthy, and had gone from many years on location directly into storage. I don't think any bulbs or rubber were ever changed... BUT, it's cleaning up really nicely. I've run into some problems that I'm a little stumped with. I have no flashers in the playfield or backbox. I changed the bulbs and tested them with a bench rig in the actual sockets on the game-- all are good. Someone suggested the interlock switch may be the issue, so I pulled the connectors and cleaned the spade terminals. After doing that, the game will no longer coin up and the coin door adjustment switch set isn't working now. So I suspect the suggestion that the interlock switch is broken is correct... but I'm open to any and all ideas for things I should be looking at.

Here are the things that have been tested:

- All of the test points on the PPB are giving readings within spec.
- I have 20V at J106-5 and J107-6
- All fuses have been tested, both in situ and out of the game.
- I tested voltage on the individual wires connected to the interlock switch... I have 35v at 2 of the terminals, 10v at 2 of the terminals, and no measurable voltage at the other two.

And my questions:
- is there a way to safely bypass the interlock switch (not permanently... just for testing)? If not, I can pull a switch from one of my other games while I wait for a new switch to arrive
- What function does the *other* switch on that bracket have (the manual indicates "memory protection") and could that have anything to do with the problem?
- Do J106-5 and J107-6 go directly to the interlock switch? If so, I need to be looking for breaks in those wires, as there's no 20v at the interlock switch.
- Could the coin door interface board be part of the problem?
- Are there other things I should be checking?

The connector at J120 is a little brown from heat, and is on my list of things to repair... but that one is for the GI. I will check J122.

Bump. Any other ideas? Found an old rec.pinball post about voltages at particular pins on the PPB and mine were all correct.

Hoping I can find an interlock switch at Pintastic, and if I can't, I'll order one. What does the other switch do?

Other ideas for things to test? I can't currently get into test mode because of the coin door issue, so maybe some help to resolve that one first?

So... pictures below. Unfortunately, I sort of painted myself into a corner. I pulled the daughterboard with the battery holder to take a picture of the MPU, not thinking about the implications of doing so when the coin door switches aren't working-- so now when the game boots it goes to "factory settings restored" and won't go into attract mode. Which means I can't test the individual flashers in the way you've suggested. I'll need to figure out the coin door switches first. I assume those are tied into the interlock switch as well?

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https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Direct_Switch_Problems

Dropping this here for future reference. I’ll do this when I have some time this weekend and report back.

Ok... some good news to report. The coin door switches are working again! For future reference, at least on this example, the ground wire for the adjustment switches go to the ground for the left coin switch, which then goes into the harness. As I was pulling the whole coin door harness out for further examination, I noticed a wire that moved a little more than it should-- but appeared to be still connected. Once I got it to the bench, I discovered that wire had broken off, and that it was being held in place by the other wire, which it had sort of bonded to over time. Cut the insulation back and started fresh... and the coin door works!

No change of status on the 20V circuit. Again, I have voltage at the PPB test points. Anyone know offhand which jumper on the PPB carries the 20v to the interlock switch? I want to test from that point to confirm that it's working. I suspect it's going to be a similar situation to the coin door-- somewhere along that chain, a wire has broken (probably a ground wire).

So, I'm open for ideas on how to trace that without cutting all of the zip ties off the harness and making a big mess.

Also open to any other ideas for how to troubleshoot the 20V

Problem may be on the PPB... I do not have voltage at J016/107 (but again, the test point reads fine).

LED 5 is lit. I did pull the spade connectors off the switch, and cleaned the switch lugs with a dremel and a brush, but it didn't fix anything.

I will do so and report back. Pulling to boards tonight for NVRAM on the MPU, and preventative maintenance on the PPB-- I have a feeling there are going to be some interesting hacks on the backside.

I have continuity there. So maybe something else going on?

Either way, the boards are on their way to a trusted repairman. In the meantime, I'm going to trace the wire from J107-6 and see where it terminates- and if there are any breaks along the way.

I opened up the harness, and traced that wire at J107-6. It goes to the flasher at the bottom left of the playfield. From there, I followed it to each flasher on the underside of the playfield. There was continuity throughout. So, I'm no further along than I was when I started.

You've been incredibly helpful, and gotten me started down what is certainly going to be the right path. I've sent the boards to someone with a factory test fixture, so I hope they are able to resolve it quickly.

Tonight's project is going to be tracing the flasher pathways into the backbox, as those aren't working either (and again, all of the sockets have been tested and working with new bulbs on my bench rig). In the end, I'm sure it's going to be something silly (fingers crossed!)

I just had a couple of thoughts...

I think I may have been measuring the voltage incorrectly- does the coin door need to be closed? If so, that's probably where I screwed up.

Also, I should know this, but I don't... since all of the flashers are tied together on the + line (at least the ones on the playfield-- haven't checked the backbox yet), I assume they turn on and off based on ground? If so, what connector controls that? I can start tracing those.

I replaced all of them with new bulbs. I tested every one of the flasher sockets on the playfield with my bench rig, and all of them work fine.

I can test the rest once my boards are back in my hands from getting NVRAM installed and general updating of the PPB.

I can bring this one to conclusion... the problem is on the PPB. I swapped in one from another game, and everything worked perfectly... so it's in transit back to my board guy to take another look at it.