(Topic ID: 177355)

Need a little help from someone with a 40's era Chicago coin

By drsfmd

7 years ago


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#1 7 years ago

Several months back, I acquired a 1949 Chicago Coin Golden Gloves. It was not working at the time, and I've now got it up and running quite nicely, except for the score reset.

Before anyone says to check the schematic, there doesn't appear to be one... I have literally scoured the planet. In addition to checking all of the usual sources for such things, I've been in touch with woodrail collectors all over the world, and no one has a schematic for this (or a schematic for "Football" or "Tahiti" which appear to be nearly identical with different artwork). In fact, I haven't found a schematic for *ANY* CC machine of this era, so I suspect they don't exist.

Anyway, on to the scoring issue... There are two score steppers in this machine. One manages the 10,000s scores, the other manages the 100,000s. The scoring *works* in so far as the targets score the correct values when hit, but when one starts a new game, it does not reset correctly. The 100,000s resets to 0, the 10,000s steps down to some random value (sometimes to 0, but usually not).

Below is a picture of the 10,000s stepper. I took the picture some months ago before I had the machine working. At the time, I thought the unit may have been something "off the rack", that wouldn't have originally had a coil attached at the top (the rusty spot) since there is a clock spring that "unwinds" the stepper when the lower coil unlocks. I came to that conclusion as there's no cut or noticably missing wiring. It now occurs to me that maybe there *should* be a coil there, and that it must be run in parallel to the coil on the 100,000s unit.

Thoughts on that logic? More importantly, does anyone have a CC machine of this vintage and would you be willing to take a photo of your 10,000s unit and explain to me the wiring of the top coil (if there is indeed on there)?

https://images.pinside.com/f/e0/fe0a743c95a8de5f6b668649569521e83897bf82/resized/large/fe0a743c95a8de5f6b668649569521e83897bf82.jpg

#2 7 years ago

A couple things to look at. first, if you pull on the top lever, does the unit reset back to "0"?
if you hold the 2 latch parts on the left side, can you move the gear back and forth?
better yet, look on the other side of the unit, is there a clock spring on the shaft? that would indicate it is a step up/down unit.
it may be only step up???
also, the coil looks burned, and the plunger is full of melted goo. may want to replace that coil and sleeve.
if that turns out to be a step up only, then you need to look at the ind pulse line from the score motor, and follow it to the step unit.
could have weak switch contacts??

#3 7 years ago
Quoted from Dr_of_Style:

A couple things to look at. first, if you pull on the top lever, does the unit reset back to "0"?

No, it does not.

Quoted from Dr_of_Style:

if you hold the 2 latch parts on the left side, can you move the gear back and forth?

Yes, gear moves freely and spins without resistance. It steps up to the correct score values when hit. It just doesn't go back to zero.

Quoted from Dr_of_Style:

better yet, look on the other side of the unit, is there a clock spring on the shaft? that would indicate it is a step up/down unit.
it may be only step up???

No clock spring. These are hinged units-- very easy to access the back side of them.

Quoted from Dr_of_Style:

also, the coil looks burned, and the plunger is full of melted goo. may want to replace that coil and sleeve.

It works. I intend to replace a number of coils and sleeves when (if) I find a schematic-- none of the coils on the machine have value markings - just plain black or yellow wrappers.

Quoted from Dr_of_Style:

if that turns out to be a step up only, then you need to look at the ind pulse line from the score motor, and follow it to the step unit.
could have weak switch contacts??

Hmmm... now you've got me wondering. I created another thread earlier this summer as I was trying to get the machine working, and there was some back and forth about the capacitor on the score motor - and you were part of that conversation (first relevant post in the thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/where-to-find-chicago-coin-schematics#post-3262500). As part of that conversation, I also noted that if I held the coin insert bar in, the score motor would zero out. I had forgotten that point once it started working, and I will try it again that way tonight.

#4 7 years ago

I still can't figure out how the score zeros out.

#5 7 years ago

I'm not 100% sure the following is correct for Chicago Coin games, but I think it would be worth your time to check it out.

For this era of game, the most common method of score reset was to have the 100K stepper reset to a "minus 1" position. In this position, there are one or more reset switches on the 100K stepper that:

1. Make the score motor run.
2. Connect a 5-pulse switch on the score motor to the 10K stepper solenoid.

In this "score reset" mode, what happens is that the 10K stepper, which can only go forward, begins to step around. When it gets to the 90K position, the carry switch on the 10K stepper will also step up the 100K stepper one position as the 10K stepper goes to its zero position. This will put the 100K stepper at zero (since it was at "minus 1" before) and that will open the reset switches on the 100K stepper, which will turn off the score reset function. At this point the 100K stepper is at zero and the 10K stepper is also at zero.

If your game doesn't have a score motor, then the above still generally applies, but the pulses to step the 10K unit around are usually generated by a relay that is toggled by make and break switches on the 10K stepper drive arm.

- TimMe

6 months later
#6 6 years ago

So, I finally managed to acquire a schematic. It's for the game "Tahiti" (http://ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2490) which is nearly identical in playfield layout (has one more pop bumper than Golden Gloves, otherwise everything looks the same).

I'll scan in what I think are the relevant sections and see if any of you can make sense of it.

#7 6 years ago

Here's the relevant part of the schematic. It's quite simple really, but I don't see any sort of hold or something that will stop the score when it gets to zero. Any thoughts?

IMG_0020 (resized).JPGIMG_0020 (resized).JPG

7 months later
#8 6 years ago

Bump. Been quite a while since the last response on this one... maybe someone who missed it before will see it and be able to provide some insight.

#9 6 years ago
Quoted from drsfmd:

I don't see any sort of hold or something that will stop the score when it gets to zero.

There is a switch labeled reset pos. 100M unit. NC. During reset, the motor continues to run until the reset position is hit, then it opens. There are several switches which also feed into that circuit. Hard for me to see from the pic there.

The 100M unit reset coil engages with the slide switch - normally on Chicago Coin, there's a stack of two or three switches that the slide hits as it retracts. One of these engages the reset coil directly (T?) as well as the U relay/coil which is probably ball count reset.

#10 6 years ago
Quoted from bingopodcast:

There is a switch labeled reset pos. 100M unit. NC. During reset, the motor continues to run until the reset position is hit, then it opens. There are several switches which also feed into that circuit. Hard for me to see from the pic there.
The 100M unit reset coil engages with the slide switch - normally on Chicago Coin, there's a stack of two or three switches that the slide hits as it retracts. One of these engages the reset coil directly (T?) as well as the U relay/coil which is probably ball count reset.

Hmmm... Not arguing, trying to work through it in my head...

It would seem to me that if that position were not hit, the score motor would keep running, no? Mine does not-- the score decrements, just not reliably to zero. It's not as though it counts to zero then counts back up to some score, it's a though the condition has been satisfied, so the score motor stops running. I'll have to play with this section and specifically that switch, tomorrow and see if I can make some sense of it.

#11 6 years ago
Quoted from drsfmd:

specifically that switch

Keep in mind that the switch, as drawn, may also be a rivet, just to be more confusing.

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