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(Topic ID: 278191)

Need a little advice about clear coat over cabinet restoration...


By loomis

64 days ago



Topic Stats

  • 11 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 54 days ago by Dono
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 64 days ago

Hello.

I need a little help concerning rattle can clear coating...

My cabinet painting schedule was - acetone to remove lead (nitro?) paint, hand block sand 80-220, then horizontal Rust Oleum flat gray rattle can primer, then 220 sand (4x, shoulda used grain filler first, lesson learned), Rust Oleum rattle can satin Blossom White, then 220 sand (3x, I think I did a 400 sand before the final coat), then Rust Oleum pint can aluminum w/ spatter brush, then a nice wet coat (1x) for each of the stencils, again done with Rust Oleum rattle cans of Poppy Red satin and Seaside satin.

I'd now like to clear coat it with some Rust Oleum 2x clear poly rattle can...

With only one coat for the stencils total, I'm concerned that even a very light block sanding of 800 on the entire body before spraying the clear might go through the stencils, and that would suck. Badly. Like contemplate suicide badly.

Can I clear over it all without 600 or 800 block sanding the body first, or will the clear flake off due to adhesion issues over time?

Mist the clear or get a good wet coat on? Will spray horizontally regardless. Misting this 2x rattle can tends to lead to bad bumpiness; best applied good and wet, but curious about your clear experience in this area regarding the clear...

Thanks
cab14 (resized).jpg

#2 64 days ago

You cant sand it now. You will smear the red and blue into the white, Put on a coat of clear then sand/scuff. Then probably another coat. Use a satin clear, these cabs were never glossy

#3 64 days ago

Looks great.

#4 63 days ago

Thank you. I just had concerns that a clear won't stick without lightly block sanding the cab in an 800 grit, something I do not want to do.

#5 63 days ago

I use semi gloss. They did have a bit of shine to them when new. Put it on thick and it will dry nice and smooth.

You can't sand once the stencils are done.

#6 57 days ago

Ok got it. No more sanding. I bought four cans of satin clear. Been too cold and/or humid to spray. Hoping for a couple warm days left this year...

#7 57 days ago

May be a little late to say this but i have cleared cabinets with varathane polurethane satin. I brush it on in super thin coats. After 3 thin coats i knock down the stencil ridge by sanding it and coat it again.
I do this because i use the colors i need in rattle can and some are gloss, some are flat. The poly makes everything satin finish. The bonus is that i can sand down the paint stencil ridge as well.

#8 57 days ago
Quoted from loomis:

I bought four cans of satin clear.......

Test it first on sample blocks with blosson white, poppy red and seaside colors......just to make sure you don't want to see like this........

abc (resized).jpeg

Quoted from PinballAir:

i have cleared cabinets with varathane polurethane satin......

Me too!
With a HVLP spray gun.....flawless!

IMG_3771 (resized).JPG

#9 57 days ago

You can argue about whether to use satin, semi gloss or gloss but they key here is to use the rustoleum varathane. I spray it on with a HVLP gun. It gives an even sheen, something you will not get with other brands and from a spray can. It will look blotchy and spotty and uneven.

#10 54 days ago

So far so good. I have just the same Rust Oleum 2x brand of paint, only in a satin clear rattle can. I did no additional sanding and just sprayed on a good wet horizontal coat. I got the back and one one side done today. Hoping for more good weather...

#11 54 days ago

Best cabinets I've seen are ones where the clear isn't ultra visible, similar to how Gottlieb did them utilizing a clear lacquer. To each his own as some really like the ultra shiny and deeper look, but I'd go with the clear lacquer myself.

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