Quoted from Karetaker:Were you doing any kind of work to it lately? Changing bulbs or anything at all? Try testing BR1.
Unfortunately, there is not a BR1 on the WPC95 driver board that is in NBAFB.
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Quoted from curban:I pulled each of D11-D14 from the board and tested and they all seem to be fine.
For what it’s worth, when I try testing the diodes in place, D7-9 and D11-14 all show ‘flow’ in both directions…but I believe that’s why you have to pull to test.
These in this particular part of the board can be tested on the board. Normally, if it needs to be pulled, someone will remind you to do it. A diode on a coil definitely is a time when the diode needs to be removed to test the diode.
What are the results measured on the diode test? Were they all within. 4 to .6 volts?
On some meters, you have to press select in order for the diode symbol to be displayed on the screen. Meter was set up that way?
Did you put the red meter lead on the non-banded side of each of the diodes and black lead on the banded side when doing this diode test?
The one direction with the red lead on the non banded side and black lead on the banded side is the most important measurement when the diode is in the circuit/board. Sorry that the video did not really cover that part of it. It was more about theory, in that case.
Since F106 is blowing, we were expecting a shorted diode, which would be zero volts on the diode test.
It would not hurt testing all those big diodes in the one direction. It at least will give you more familiarity with the diode test.
I see that you have many or all the connectors unplugged during those measurements. So if the diodes are .4 to .6volts, then it would seem something in the playfield might be the cause.
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