(Topic ID: 168368)

NBA Fastbreak - No cabinet sound, No in the paint....help with both


By Guzz4851

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 34 posts
  • 2 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by Guzz4851
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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flipper opto board (resized).jpg

#1 2 years ago

I don't know what to check....I have an NBA Fastbreak..has sound coming out of backbox speakers....nothing out of the bottom cabinet speaker. Checked and reseated wiring. Nothing seems to work. Any ideas as to what I can check and/or where?

Also, after watching gameplay videos online, it seems that when the IN THE PAINT is lit and the ball is shot in the back, the player has the option to use the flippers to switch shooters and then shoot. My game has yet to do this. Even took glass off and hit switches, rolled ball into back and nothing. The game just automatically shoots the ball from whatever eject hole it lands in. I began investigating and noticed that a wire was broke off player 4 upkicker coil. I will try and resolder that..not sure if that would cause it? Any other ideas? I am fairly new to this game. Thank you.

#2 2 years ago

Try another speaker in the bottom cabinet. Speaker might be blown.

#3 2 years ago

Go into the switch edge test and push the left flipper and right flipper buttons. Do they register Left EOS, left button, Right button, and Right EOS? If not, then try cleaning the flipper button optos on the inside of the cabinet with windex or alcohol and Q-tips. Scrub on the inside of the U-shaped opto. There is a transmitter on one side of the U and a receiver on the other side.flipper opto board (resized).jpg

#4 2 years ago

Thank you.
Speaker wise, does it have to match the ratings from the original? Want to get one that is the same.

Yes both register in switch test...left, left and right, right. I will try cleaning anyway and see what happens. If they both register could it be something else? Thanks.

#5 2 years ago
Quoted from Guzz4851:

Speaker wise, does it have to match the ratings from the original? Want to get one that is the same

Not for a quick test. You could even try the speaker in another game if you want. Could be possible the A/V has a bad speaker channel.

Quoted from Guzz4851:

Yes both register in switch test...left, left and right, right. I will try cleaning anyway and see what happens. If they both register could it be something else?

Definitely need to know if they are registering correctly. Are you able to enter in high score initials ok or does the machine automatically select AAA for you?

What other games you have in your collection?

#6 2 years ago

Would you mind posting a picture of the MPU and the wiring connected?

#7 2 years ago

Was thinking car audio speaker....I will look into it...I may have an arcade speaker. I also have a demo man and could use that too.

Yes switches register. I am able to put initials in no problem. I will take a picture of mpu and wiring when I get home later from work. Thanks.

#8 2 years ago

Tested speaker in another cabinet....it doesn't work. Assuming then it's blown. I will have to locate another....if anyone is selling one cheap let me know.

Here are pics of boards for help. Machine switches register....both sides. Will fix coil wire tonight although unlikely problem here.

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IMAG3542 (resized).jpg

#9 2 years ago

Is working trying a working speaker in NBAFB to verify the A/V board is working ok on the sub channel.

#10 2 years ago

Tested a small speaker 8 ohm. Didn't hear much out of it, however it was vibrating during game music and seemed to work. Old speaker wouldn't even do that.....didn't vibrate or respond at all...

#11 2 years ago

Hmm...sound like the sub channel has an issue. Have another game to test the A/V board in?

#12 2 years ago

I think you should test out all the switches on the playfield. Need to see if you have a more than one switch failure that will lead to a solution to the other problem.

#13 2 years ago

How much resistance do you measure across the bad speaker and the one you just tested?

#14 2 years ago

Still stuck on the in the paint. I don't know much about the game so it makes it hard to know what is normal.
I cleaned all switch, opto. Both flipper sides register in switch test. In solenoid test the defender inches along almost like it bogged down...goes to one side very slowly...not sure if that is right.
Switches entering in the paint on both sides register in switch test. During attract mode the defender moves to one side (like it normally should) then stops .So it seems the motor is working. The defender always moves out of way when basket is made too to let ball roll down. I fixed coil for shooter 4...it works but no in the paint mode. Every time it's lit, ball goes up, lands in hole and it immediately shoots. The defender doesn't move ...only to let the shot ball roll down again....any other ideas? Very fruastrating. Thanks.

#15 2 years ago

Not sure how to measure resistance on speaker, sorry I'm new at this....do I use the multimeter? What setting?

#16 2 years ago
Quoted from Guzz4851:

Not sure how to measure resistance on speaker, sorry I'm new at this....do I use the multimeter? What setting?

Ohms. That would be the horseshoe symbol

#17 2 years ago
Quoted from Guzz4851:

The defender doesn't move ...only to let the shot ball roll down again....any other ideas? Very fruastrating.

Sorry to let you know, I don't know anything about the game play. I had messaged a friend of mine that has the game and will see if he has ran into this issue.

Though, it sounds like defender may run on a coil, but I am unsure. Can you ohm out all the fuses on the driver board? Use the horseshoe symbol to make sure all are measuring less than 2 ohms. (Touch your leads together to make sure you see about 0.5 ohms or so, which is a dead short, which is what the fuses also should measure if they are good.

#18 2 years ago

Good news....I was messing with the exit switch on left outlane....Seems it wasn't depressing all the way....bent it so it registers and in the paint works. Now I need to bend it with my fingers enough to undistort it so the ball rolls over it and registers. Seems to be working now! I need to adjust both sides...so thank you for sticking with me!!!!!!! Now onto the speaker....should I attach old and take a reading?

#19 2 years ago

Here is my meter...if you could walk me through how to measure the speakers I can do it and report back. Thanks again!

#20 2 years ago

Congrats on locating the issue with the switch. Make sure you use a ball to be sure it does register every time. When testing with fingers it is best to make sure it registers when pushed no later than half way down.

Test the ohms on the speakers when they are disconnected from the game.

#21 2 years ago

IMAG3543 (resized).jpg

#22 2 years ago

hook the red to the horseshoe and the black to the COM connection.
Set the meter to 200 ohm (horseshoe symbol)

#23 2 years ago

You should take some time tomorrow and test out all the switches and optos in the game with a ball to make sure you are not noticing something else in the game play that is not working and needs adjustment.
Happy to see you had some success so far.

#24 2 years ago

Also, I cannot see your battery pack. So in case you have alkaline batteries installed, I suggest upgrading to Lithium batteries, which do not leak and last up to at least 5 years in a pinball machine. Though the best solution would be to get rid of them and install NVRAM, which I would be willing to help you with. Do you have any other games in your collection?

#25 2 years ago

5.5 from the cabinet one.
5.3 from the mini one I had from an arcade.

I have been testing the opto and switches....it seems as they all work in switch test. I discovered that those two rollover switches on each side entering the paint area need adjusting. When I press with my finger they work, however, when ball rolls over them quickly they do not register. I have been adjusting to try and get it right. No luck yet I'll keep at it tomorrow. If ball rolls over slow then it works....so I know the paint mode works I just need to get the switches right so when ball flies through there it will register.

I have batteries, lithium. They are mounted in the side on a remote battery holder. If I do decide to go nvram I will most certainly ask for your help. Thank you for the offer.
I own demolition man as other pin.
I am going to continue tomorrow. If there is anything I am missing let me know. If it is just a bad speaker I can just buy one and be done. Thanks again for stepping up. I appreciate your help.

#26 2 years ago

My bad...missed the earlier post about game disconnected and off...
So the cabinet speaker registered nothing. Meter didn't move
The arcade speaker I had to test that was vibrating during the game tested at 8.1 It is an 8 ohm speaker.

#27 2 years ago
Quoted from Guzz4851:

So the cabinet speaker registered nothing. Meter didn't move

Sounds like the speaker has high ohms or is completely open.
Speaker needed for sure then. Not sure yet of the A/V board. I know the cabinet speaker is not as loud as the ones in the speaker panel, but should at least be half the volume anyway, if not louder. I need to do some checks tomorrow on my speaker on CV, which is similar sound setup.

#28 2 years ago

At least with Lithium, no hurry to move to NVRAM. Just when you go out of town for a week or weekend, probably be a good time to send it down.

#29 2 years ago

I will consider that, thanks!
When I push on the old cabinet speaker I hear squeaking....so sounds like it is blown? I did try this speaker in the Demo Man and nothing happened. So I would seem logical that it is the speaker...
Found this on Ebay....ohms match, but power handling is a bit more...would this work in the pinball machine?

ebay.com link » New 6 5 Woofer Speaker 4 Ohm 6 1 2 Mtm Bass Replacement Six Half Inch Mid

#30 2 years ago

The speaker does sound blown.
No problem with the power handling being more, but hard to say if the spec they used is meaningful or not.

#31 2 years ago

Mounting hole measurements are closely matched. Ohm rating is the same. Since power handling doesn't seem to matter then maybe I will try. Pretty cheap too. I just didn't want to damage boards etc. by using the wrong speaker....sounds like I wouldn't then.
I will report back with the switches and the speaker update if I get this.

#32 2 years ago

Sounds good. I've been meaning to buy a couple of new speakers for a couple of my games as well. Just hadn't had a chance to do any research on potential buys.

#33 2 years ago

I would even clean those 2 rollover switches. Use a dollar bill and squeeze the 2 contact with the dollar bill between them as you pull it out. I would think a couple of times would be enough.

#34 2 years ago

I will try that.
I ordered on of those speakers. I will report how it works, if it does. I will re-post about switches too when I get to it. Thanks for the suggestions.

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