Here you go

If he only knew the future...

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I have had mine for around 3 years it was the machine I wanted from the start (big nba fan), No one wanted them, I see people advertising for them these days

I have been playing NBA FB for hours daily in my quest to get rings for all the teams. I noticed tonight that most of the time when I pass from 3 to 2...the ball rolls over to the 1 position - occasionally it stops at the 2. Most of the time the ball skips 2 and lands in 1 and then I have to pass the ball back from 1 to 2.

Is this normal? If not, how do I adjust it so that a left pass from 3 will consistently land in the 2 spot?

Thanks for any help.

That’s normal

Is that the only one that skips a pass? Or should 2 go to 4 by skipping 3?

My machine will sometimes skip from 2 to 4 but not always.

Thanks for the replies. It helps to know nothing is wrong with my machine.

I am wondering if my diverter on the right orbit is working right... When in the paint is lit the diverter is down until the opto at the entrance of the right orbit register and pops it up. I am not sure if my flipper are too strong and/or the diverter is too slow but 1 out of 4 shot brick on the diverter before it is up and goes into the pop... is that a common problem?

3 to 1 is pretty common [mixes it up a bit ]

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Anyone have any fastbreak cabinet decals they would sell me? Really need the head decals and if I can't find those I'm going to have to buy the whole set and apply. Thanks

if you contact the guy on ebay he might sell them alone, as he makes them (from Russia i think)

You can contact Pete at RetroRefurbs. He would probably sell just the head decals.

Reach out to vbobrusev here on pinside.

Thanks guys

Please help

1). Fuse 103 keeps blowing. It’s controls solenoids 1-8.

2). Game resets after the back box flipper shot round happens (also the audio gets really loud right after the back box round concludes)

I do have the pro daughter board installed*

Any thoughts?

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Worked with ColorDMD to successfully correct team colors. Thanks ColorDMD!

For those of you with linked machines, can you please tell me where I can find detailed instructions how on to create the linking serial connector? Is there any place where I can just buy the it?

Thanks!

Go to rec.games.pinball and search "nba link cable."

Seems like a good amount of info there.

There's also this. If this link works, scroll down to "how do I link my nba..."

http://web.archive.org/web/20070927201858/http://www.pinrepair.com/wpc/index3.htm#odd

Thank you for the links. What I don't know is where to buy the "head" of what goes here. Every time I search for Rs 232, it gives me the standard db15 pin layout. Where can I buy a 9 pin connector. I tried searching "molex" but I couldn't find it. Does the "head" go by a different name? If I had the parts, I think I could do it. I just don't know what those parts are called.

Thanks for any help.

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You need a 10 pin housing. Not sure if that's .1" or .156", may want to get both

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=68

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Grizzlies were an expansion team from Vancouver and their colours were green before switching their jerseys. As for the warriors and Knicks, those seem like mistakes. I see the grayed our Bally’s at the start too.

Hey guys! If you want to watch someone stream NBA Fastbreak feel free to follow me at "JustAnotherPinball" on Twich. Here is a link to me beating the wizard mode last night. I've scored higher but this was the first time I got it on stream. Thanks for the support!

https://www.twitch.tv/videos/632251135

Does anyone have the file for the linked championship topper? If there isn't any NOS out there, maybe I could just get one printed. Thx!

With my fully restored NBA Fastbreak, I am selling all the extra & removed parts, almost all are in good working condition. See the list below. Looking to help people out and re-coup some of the cost in a fair hobby type way.

I wanted to post here before anywhere else. Pricing (unless otherwise noted) is half of the new price (I can help locate if needed) plus $10 shipping as an estimate. Will go actual shipping cost if lower/smaller parts, slightly more for the bigger heavier items. Or make an offer, happy to help out. Listing out all the part numbers is quite tedious.

PM for prices, pictures, offers, more info, etc. Paypal via friend method (non-credit card so no fee) is the preferred payment method.

Original Lockbar with hole for shoot button
Receiver bar
Replacement shoot button
Player 1 assembly plastic and connector (have 2)
Player 2 assembly plastic and connector (2)
Player 3 assembly plastic and connector
Player 3 assembly plastic and connector, plastic is in two pieces
Player 4 assembly plastic and connector
Player 1 wire guide shooter to the basket
Player 4 wire guide shooter to the basket
Player 4 assembly plastic
Player 1 coil and bracket assembly
Player 2 coil and bracket assembly
Player 3 coil and bracket assembly
Player 4 coil and bracket assembly
AE-29-2000 coils (2)
AE-29-2000 coils (2) New
Yellow square target switches on right side of playfield (4)
Purple three pointer target switches (3)
Tilt assembly
Left ramp and round to the basket
Center ramp
shot clock glass backboard
red flasher cover
white flasher cover (2)
blue flasher cover (3)
4 legs and levelers
4 yellow cabinet protectors
cabinet interior leg brackets (4)
Side rails chrome
Side rails black glass holders
Original DMD Display
Speaker grills (2)
Wire white/gray 30' 22awg
Slingshot coil and assemblies (2)
Playfield glass receiver under backbox
Magetic post and coil for ball hold under basket
Pop bumper light sockets (4)
Pop bumper assembly (2)
Jet bumper assembly (2)
Jet bumper coil and bracket assembly (3)
Jet bumper cap red outer and inner
Bracket and coil for diverter
Plastics (4)
Cabinet secure bar holders (2)
Reed switch under right ramp
Main Flippers all parts from complete replacement including buttons and opto switches
Backglass translite (2)
Backbox black frame pieces (4)
Backbox basketball
Backbox old clear pieces
Backbox light sockets
Playfield - $250+$25 shipping
Playfield handles (2)
Playfield hanger (2)
misc small pieces if you're looking for anything in particular....

Can someone post pics of the left ramp diverter in the down position? I’m getting tons of rejects on mine and wanted to make sure mines setup right.

Thanks!

Here you go Chuck!

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Thanks. Anyway to get a straight on view of it too? I want to see if mine is sitting low enough. Might have to take the glass off to get that angle. Appreciate it!

My diverter was getting caught on the plastic. Fixed that and it seems to be much better. Thanks again !

Hi guys! Anyone in the MA/CT area looking to sell their Fastbreak?

So you don't need the extra pic now?

Nope. I should be good. Thanks though!

Hello everyone. Joined the club a few days ago. Just a bad diode on player #4 bulb and the ball launch switch was the wrong way so the lockbar wouldn’t fully lock and the switch was shorting sometimes but fixed those and all good. Fun game.
I do have a question I found in the thread that didn’t seem to get a solid answer. When lifting the translite? or whatever it’s called in this case, there is something fighting it getting it up over the speaker panel. The lock is definitely cleared but it feels like maybe near where the flipper solenoid is. I (never again) tried removing with the game on when I first got it fired up and whatever happened back there caused a reset. Lifted again and another reset. Powered down and finally got it out but every time is a chore. Wondering if there is a secret way to get it out I’m missing? I’m a little worried if something is hitting back there I’ll break of a capacitor or something.

Can you take a picture of the front and back of your translite? Especially where the molding on the edges meets the translite? I suspect you may have the wrong molding on it. I have had a couple with the wrong molding and the behavior is as you describe.

There is a specific thicker molding that isn't as tall, that is needed for this translite and tub.

So on further inspection after work, the solenoid on the back box flipper has a rubber protector of some sort that is coming against the cabinet audio amp at u6. You can see where’s it’s discolored.
It’s the correct solenoid on the flipper, thought maybe it was changed to larger. So it has to be forced and when I do get it on they are right up against each other. Little scary. I took a picture holding it with the speaker panel down.
Does what I have matchup with standard? Do you guys have clearance?

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I haven't cracked open my fastbreak to compare, but looking at your photos, I would spin the coil 180 so your lugs are up by the middle of the mech.

The manual is showing the orientation that I am describing...

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Thanks. I hadn’t notice that. I flipped it and it goes in easier. When removing the coil does still hit the amplifier but it’s manageable. Just got to remember to not do it with the game on.

Played a game and nothing blew up. Did have a weird quirk. I got to trophy multiball and I thought it is a timed mode but it just kept going. Stopped kicking balls out but let me keep playing with one. Once it drained it stayed in trophy sounds and lights. Did a ball search but never timed out. Weird. I’ll start it up tomorrow evening and see what happens.

Just finished putting a LED ColorDMD in my Fastbreak. Looks great!

I could do with the clubs help on one issue with my machine. The high power coils tend buzz loudly when they are held on. This is particularly noticeable with the left loop diverter, but loop gate and right loop diverter buzz too.

I guessing this is because the 50V solenoid power is not very well smoothed. My question is this normal?? The 50V solenoid is only smoothed with a small 100uF capacitor. This does not seem a lot for these large coils! Before I start replacing capacitor or rectification diodes I am wondering whether they are in fact at fault or just the physical design of the left loop diverter mean the buzz is easily heard.

What do you all think?

My game does the same thing. No idea If it’s normal.

Sounds crazy but it works,
Replace the coil retaining bracket.
Or swap it with one from the passing coils (they dont get held on as long so they wont hum)
https://www.pinballlife.com/coil-retaining-bracket.html

On mine I just got there was a loud buzz and could feel it in the lockbar. I noticed it only happened when the right diverter was held. I also noticed that it was short of the coil stop when down. Took the bracket off and it was bent. Not at a 90 with the playfield but was close. Bent the bracket a little so it was straight and it moved easier by hand after that and it went all the way to the stop and no more buzz now.
First time that happened to me but make sure things are straight and tightened down. Fixed it in my case.

Cool. Thanks for the help guys. I’ll take a look at mine. I feel mine needs a shop job soon so I’ll be getting to know my game a lot better soon enough.

Thanks for the tips everyone. I'll take a look at the coil bracket and see if I can stop it buzzing.

The plunger base?
It is a diverter, not a normal plunger.
The base either bends the retainer or wears enough of a ring in the retainer due to being held in that position and vibrating to cause the hum.

So I am having no luck with the ball coming down from the pop bumper.... moved around the ball guides many different way, even redid some screw holes but still nothing consistent. I have tried dead bounce foam strip in different spot but it either get the ball stuck or drop off...

I am surprise no one has made a better fix for it... what's the best recommendations?

I’ve just lived with the fact that about 10% of the time that feed is gonna kill me.