Possibly looking at a Nascar... anything common that fails or wears out? Would you guys recommend it?

anyone have any luck with new or reprint apron stickers?

my pf and cab are nice, but for some reason those apron stickers look faded or something..

anyone thinking of changing their translite? ive NOT been working on something and it will NOT be printed on translite material and it will NOT be offered and you can NOT PM me on the pricing.

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NO thank-you for your compliments and i would NOT post a larger image up if someone asked but i've sent it to the printers and hope to pick it up on the weekend.

Now NOT taking orders. PM for details.

Printed on mylar backlit material, double pass to display color correctly when lit.

It looks a touch dark when not lit, but i think thats all lightbox prints.

To give everyone an idea of how it looks, its beside standard led lit games. My nascar has an LED tube in the backbox.

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Ive worked on a few pins from em, ss, sys11, wpc and this is my first semi modern dmd stern..

Im hoping i never need to tackle that garage mech - ever!!!!

I pity having to change over the game to LEDs... when did pins change over to that wierd plasticky clip bulb holder housing? They seem super fragile.

If anyone is having trouble with that center scoop firing stdm, make sure the bolts holding the assy to the pf are tightened up before making any adjustments.

Helped mine out.

Looks solid!! I cant get enough of playing mine.

Just figured out that the spinners and the captive ball control which mode is awarded... go figure.

Can anyone reliably tell me that their diverter is smart enough to allow them to alternate ramps? Mine usually goes to the left flipper almost all the time unless
1. Lock is lit
2. Collect race letter on left ramp is lit.

But thats about it.... anyone else?

Curious if anyone here has had any trouble with the garage not lowering? I ran it in test and the switches activate properly, and the coil does attempt to fire, but its almost like the pulse is too short? The horizontally mounted coil will pull in the angled plunger most of the time, but there are odd times where in game it will try to pull this in a few times and eventually give up. I hear the coil trying to pull in the angled plunger and the plunger is totally clean and free of any debris or residue.

any ideas? anyone else have this issue? IN test mode garage up/down, the up works 100% of the time but the down will attempt to fire and sometimes pulls in, letting the garage fall, or it pulses and fails. If i try again, it seems to work correctly, but intermittently.

diodes for all the switches look good and the switches themselves test fine.

Thanks grumpy, the coil stop bracket is the upgraded unit.

Just not sure why its firing but not registering sometimes, either frlm switch or from test,

Btw i havent forgotten about that translite - toronto has been on covid lockdown....

Also, switch 39 tests good, if garage is up, i can trigger 39 and it will fire the garage release coil without any issues

EDIT: maybr i screwed around with it enough last night cuz its working fine from what i can tell so far.

Will update.

Played a few longish games.. no issues thankfully.

I am pretty sure its not mechanical since everything is free, clean and moving nicely. Will update!

I am down a left flipper bushing tho....

Corrected, down both bushings.

If any of you have a guillotine fetish, i put my phone inside the game while running the garage up and down test.

Interesting as the raise coil actually engages for a fraction of a second while the release coil pulls in.

I did some digging and Grumpy is right in that there were changes but , From the firmware changelogs, this appears to be normal operation up starting at v4.00

CPU Release Version 4.00
Date October 25, 2005
File nascpua.400 (American release, checksum $32FF)
nascpul.400 (Spanish release, checksum $F1FF)

– Improved the driver for the car mechanism to prevent wear on the
release coil latch.
– Improved and more efficient firing of lower track exit diverter.
– Better compensation when the Test Car switch is broken. Modes will
start properly now.

Woah now, i did not see that in the Changelog.

Im on 4.20 tho

Nice job!!! I was just looking at ideas to dress up the diverter as a flag tower earlier today...

Stacking modes like test car and speed shots and multiball all at the same time is pretty satisfying.

More details on your test car replacement?!

Id love to upgrade the car on my game.

Even if someone just came out with a sticker skin to wrap the car, id be fine with that.

I was even thinking of making it a building and the car goes up into it when the garage is open.

And some of us dont want to bash on toyotas

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At least something that looks more like a car.

And less like a bar of soap...

Anyone have an led ocd board in their nascar? Any videos?

I notice nascar has a lot of nice bulb fade effects and half lit bulbs to make it look like sequenced animations... im not sure what other games utilize these effects on dmd games... i dont think wpc era games did this.. it was either on, or flash or off...

I really like the orange bands on your game. Tasteful touch.

Ill eventually figure out the car on mine.. until then ill get some decals done..

Just to let you guys know i closed out taking orders and will be shipping a few out this coming week.

I have a couple extras that are unclaimed so if you are considering a new translite for your nascar, pm me for more details.

Thanks for the comments on it!
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I notice a slight flicker when they are on half brightness, with the fade effects mainly... i am in the waiting game as its making its way crossing the boarder...

Got to both wizard modes

And fumbled them..

Posting this as its 5yrs old.. if anyone has an extra, let me know.

Its a decal that soapman had made to wrap the vehicle.

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anyone else sometimes have their ball caught caught up right here? (yellow circle)

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Pops operate great and snappy as u mentioned, skirts are free as a feather.

Ill check the rubber

Not my pic, but i will make sure that rubber goes on tight.

Insert magnum joke here*

Glass cutters can do it. Just need to provide dimensions. I know a Dino Zorbas handles Toronto.. it probably wouldnt survive the shipping....

It will be worth it

And wow lowes eh damn thats cheap.

Love it!! It looks great!!

If anyone has a Last Action Hero in their line up, ive stumbled upon some art for that one too.

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Make sure to tell the new owner about us! Its a fun pin.

Very welcome and glad u like it!!

Re garage, what does switch test report when garage up?

Damn, flip flop chip? Hmm im going to have to read up on that one as most games ive fixed are not at the ic level of needing repair just yet...

Im thinking it has to be simpler as most pin repairs typically are... but i have been known to be wrong more often than not ...

Something is grounding the coil on power on. Hmm... hoping bumping this will jump start the thread

Thx for the bump, pin jim! Awaiting how this will turn out.

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Balls seem to be pretty good. I have a last action hero and believe me, the scoops on that thing see ball strikes at all angles and balls are fine.

There are t nuts on the upper left side of the pf race track that are hardened steel and make sure they are covered with mylar.

Dont worry about a car taking some hits, it wont harm the balls! Oh i should also mention, the car is mounted on a hinge, so even when its stuck, it can absorb the hit.

Its pretty good actually. And i dont find it as unrobust as some ppl say

Does the coil have a diode on it? Is it loose?

Also, press down on that u1... never know!

I think we need more pics of that topper!! Thanks for the shout out to my translight!!! And great score up at 89 mill!! Def happy to be back!

Actually i think a tour of all the mods would be great, colordmd, funky speaker panel, modded car for the garage etc.

If it helps, ive played the crap out of my nascar for at least 2-3hrs a day for the first 6 weeks of ownership after getting it dialed in. Its been behaving well after getting over the garage latch and hasnt done anything unexpected! Agreed the garage mech should be on rollers but after looking at it closer, the slider should do fine for a long time as mine appears to float between both brackets even tho that magna lube is called for for contact.

I do admit the light show is amazing witb leds and led ocd and the game play really needs to be recognized for how smooth it feels for a fan layout. It makes you really want to shoot for the spinners with how the spinners select the modes and the shots flow so nicely. And when those spinners are rippin, its great.

Get good at em, super jackpot and mode jackpots app day over here with those 3 drops.

Yah actually the game looks nice (nicer now with that translite heh) u should share some pics on the work!

Two wizard modes and a bunch of diverters to add!!

Yes every new game has a lot of modes and cooperative play but.. nascar is a hidden gem when it comes to straight forward gameplay and the modes are fun.

Dont get me started on the dmd, however.... the dots are well... forgettable at best.

Wowzers!! Nice work MustangPaul

Ur all fine no display update required

Let us know what turns up?

I want to think its low 12v or 5v to the mpu... and causes the optos to lose signal intermittent or a bad capacitor that goes out of spec after the game warms up...

Nice work!! Those u201 through hole would be a tough catch.

Well here is some motivation:

I got to the 2nd wizard mode and handed it over to my daughter so she can share in the excitement!

Ledocd on this one, wish i recorded it in 60fps.. but it looks great.

@mustangpaul, i just sent herg a msg on this, can u let me knoe what settings u are using jn your ledocd?

Ive noticed after a few games, the circular scrolling of the mode inserts dont work along with the CHAMP1 INSERTS. It comes back in gameplay, but for some reason (im guessing matrix scanning), the inserts do not light in attract mode.

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Play a few games, does the attract mode appear correct in displaying the mode design light pattern.

Do u still need this?

Check mpu 5v? This is a bit above me but disconnect one of the wires going to the machine gun sling switch, see if the flippers still act up?

Man, i hate intermittan errors...

Im also dealing with oddly missing light sequences with an ledocd board..

Timing or something seems to randomly miss certaib sequences but they also randomly reappear like normal so i dont know what setting in led causes the issue!

Nice! I give it a listen now.

Thanks for the link ! Would have never known about it otherwise!

Dave sounds a lot like one of the guys from the, 'stuff you should know', podcast.

Actually they both sound like the 'stuff you should know'.

They really bashed the game lol

Not sure if i caught your rom version but see something here

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Wow cool!! Can u spill any deets?

As other games have gone up, i hoped nascar would as well. I cant believe rocky and bullwinkle is more sought after?! Pinball is weird.

Anyway, nascar is a great tournament game and good pace with even scoring.

Wow this is a great idea!!! That translite turned out really nice as well!!!

Ive been wanting to do that hurst shifter shooter rod for a while... ugh, dont want to sink any more coin into nascar tho..

Now it needs a wack load of scene replacements in the dmd using pin2dmd, replacemrnt sounds and bgm using Pinsound and it would be pretty solid.

Now we need a plastics set to help round it out!!

Ok, the display in there IS a stern 5v, and yes you notice the shadowing. I had the same problem when i plugged in a 5v stern dmd to my data east machines.

Surprisingly, there is no shadow when plugged into a wpc game.

I was never able to figure out why the shadowing exists on DE games but not wpc or the era of stern titles that work correctly with that 5v dmd but you can be sure that both the dmd and the driver are not defective... they just have a weird incompatibility.

man alive, LOVE when problems are easy fixes. nice work.

in other news, i have a couple of SECONDS of my nascar translite. I don't really want to see them doing nothing, OR in a landfill, so if you shoot me a PM i'll send these out at a special price.

Demolition Man and Last Action Hero are available as well.

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thanks for the stamp of approval! its a great game and fun layout, if only fixing the sounds were as simple as swapping a translite!

still got 2 more seconds!

THULL85 please let us know when you maxed out how many cars fit lol.

What i really want to do is make a good flag waver stand for the diverter on the right..

Yup, thats the diverter im talking about, too.

Ill find something...

I did the diy pin stadium ($30) and i do prefer it. The pf is a lot more visible with them.

Service the assembly. The code is the same.

I love easy fixes!

So far the only thing would be to jam a pinsound board in it. I think...

Are dale cabs not drilled for a start button on the left of the coin dr?

I think i remember reading this that stern got super lazy and i guess the hole drilling guy went on strike and since tournament mode was not used on dale jr games, they wired the start button to the lock down bar button.

I think you should take a look at the manual for this one. I am not at my game but if someone can take the glass off and shoot some pics im sure it would help to compare.

nice nice, good to hear you made progress.

I got a few extra 2nds translites that I am offering to the group here for a substantial discount. They have minor printing defects but they would basically be moot from playing position.

send me a PM/DM for more details and pricing!!

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Post a gameplay video!!

Just started having the same issue the pinwheel target just keeps rotating and u gotta shoot at it at the right timing. It does stop but just intermittently until another pf target is it and then jt starts spinning again

The optos register in switch test and in the pinwheel test mode.

Anyone have experience in testing this in the test mode? Here is where i suspect its not operating correctly where the target can be either target show/hide/running/stop.
The opto reading reported in the test correctly displays open or closed relative to the pinwheel position.

The target will always rotate. Even if stop is selected.

If i select target show or hide, the target will show that position correctly but only after EXITING that test menu, so the pinwheel will continue rotating but stop at the open or closed once exiting the menu. The stop option never works and the target rotates until i exit the test menu, which is mirrored in game as the car target never holds a positon of open or closed.

I traced back the connectors and everything looks fine. I suspect a ground is loose or that the opto would be bad or not communicating to the mpu but the opto switch is verified in switch tests...

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From connector j8 pin5, driver q4, should the motor have a diode crossing the lugs?

Correction there is a diode crossing the lugs of the motor.

So thinking about this as a coil, the coil would always be energized and in this case, the motor is also always energized.

What it seems like, is that the opto is reporting switch closure back to the mpu, but the mpu does not appear to be controlling the motor or motor not reading those changes in on/off status.

Help!

Thanks for the reply and pointing me in the right direction. Ok looks like I’m going to have to bust out the multimeter..

Both areas look clean…

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The wheel spins all the time. There are times in the game it should stop with car shown or car hidden and it just keeps spinning.
This is confirmed in diagnostics where the opto registers in the test but the windmill/pinwheel target just keeps turning even if STOPPED is selected.

With the rest of the game playing flawless

Only optical switches back there and they seem to be registering correctly. I believe the culprit is a bad driver. Does not test like the others. Diode on motor also tests good.

New driver is on order and I’ll update the thread when i install it.

Most nascar pin owners would never notice it’s even out of spec, but iirc there are certain game modes where it does stop in target open or closed.

This driver is specific to the target. Logically it makes sense why it failed:
Unlike the coils, this target is in motion most of the time, it is stopped and still stops when power to all coils goes out, which made it tricky to understand its operation.

But with it being in motion most of the time, power is also running thru the fet that controls this most of the time, unlike a coil where it snaps on and then controlled power is shut off.

Unfortunately there is no other driver i could swap out for this... ive not been shy about grounding to another driver that could not be in use at the same time, like on de games where autolaunch and trough popper COULD use the same driver but just never at the same time (which is fine because the launcher and tough pop could never activate at the same time)

But the pinwheel target doesnt have that flexibility... since it can be in action while other coils are activated.... will keep u guys posted... there are times where i dont touch tjis game for weeks and now it needs service and i want to play it.

OK, BUT WITH THAT OUT OF THE WAY

Do you guys notice sometimes after a game, attract mode lights mess up the rotating circle of modes and they all fail to light in the rotating attract mode pattern? My game has always done this even after a rom update.

Ive changed bulbs, leds, random mix of both and there is zero rhyme or reason, sometimes the center pattern just doesn't light in attract mode but comes back once the next game is started...

Notice here.

My game sometimes behaves like this regardless if ledocd is plugged in and doesnt matter if im using led or incandescent etc

That wire looks like it got pinched and pulled off of whatever it was connected to.

Check diodes on all coils on the same column as that kicker slingshot and truck ramp exit kicker

My game pf is still up so I’ll poke around for this wire and see where it terminates.

If you need pics of anything, let me know. I’ll keep the glass off until we got some answers for you.

Hey just reviewing my pic above, check here there is another triple aux board. Your wire goes to it

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That purple wire goes to this board lower left corner.

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yeah get that wire stripped and twist it back together, maybe it attaches to a coil and the lug has a diode so now that one diode is missing from the column it doens't know what to do?

you mention your right sling isn't working anymore, and this wire goes up to the sling.. i think you found why its not working!

I think it shorted on whatever metal thing sliced the wire. It was prob grounding it in the process.

Yeah, its rare anyone has the glass off on a nascar, they generally are pretty good cuz they are seldomly played!!! Lol!

Honestly i look at how much crap is packed into nascar and man it deserves betfer....

Imagine if the track was elevated and the pf could be normal size!!

Actually i lied earlier.

I could steal a pop bumer driver and simply tie two pops together to one of the remaining drivers , ala james bond style....
Id just have 2 pops that go off at the same time when only one of them is triggered
Or leave that pop undriven.

I’m wondering if the new coil u put in is wired backwards.

I’m also going to think that the driver on the pcb needs to be changed because it’s shorted.

This sounds tricky.

The new coil and everything looks good on inspection, right?

I’d check further upstream from that transistor.

Also, what transistor are you putting in there if u replaced it a few times? It should be IRL540 or equivalent. Make sure ur not putting a TIP102 or TIP122 in there!

I’ve had this before with a data east. Basically replacing the transistor fixed it. Are u replacing the coil with the equivalent part?

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Trace the wires off the coil and make sure they aren’t shorting against anything.

Agreed, just draw some solder to bridge it.

Keep tracing and inspecting around there. That’s really odd that the leg looks like it blew out, and also, the pcb looks like it may have a light fracture along the legs on the top layer. Check the backside of the pcb to make sure it’s not shorting against anything.

Nice, ok if u kno where that goes just tin some wire on both ends and connect it to the leg of that chip and jumper it direct to that lower pin r247

Did u hear any loud bangs or burning smells? A leg popping off Ike that would have been a sharp snap pop.

Failures at the chip leg generally dont just happen from vibration.

It looks like burn marks around that one tho? Or is it just the photo?

Im gonna check my game tonight. At the office so... stay tuned for later tonight.
Interesting urs are both rev g boards

Google ds1232 u210

Before i get your hopes up.... see attachments.

More here
https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Sega/Stern_White_Star_Repair

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Nurbtadtic, remove the coil and inspect the diode to ensure it indeed making contact across both coil lugs?

Make sure to test the trannys before you install them. You may need to ground them out first which just means bridging the leads with a screw driver before install

Should be many out there! And man it’s such a great game when it’s working as it should!!

Awesome!

So I put in a new transistor for my truck issue and no dice. Same behaviour. Pretty sure that transistor tested back but I guess not..

Back to the drawing board for me.

all fixed up, see the progress in the thread here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/whitestar-driver-board-irl540n-driving-a-motor#post-7586795

these were the settings that seemed to have been misadjusted...

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Those skirts look pretty good.yes the wiring sucks as u get to see how much junk is crammed on the bottom, watch for the diode strip where iirc some of the pop switches have their diodes relocated there.