There is a steel roller on each stud so it can go up and down smoothly, one of yours may be missing.

A photo will shead alot of light.

You will have to make them rollers yourself, I have not found them for sale yet.

I did not know these were the correct parts, hard to tell from the discription. Mine has play too, but not as much as you have. If the studs on your bracket are not worn I would try new rollers.

Yes make sure the ball rests on the kicker fork and not ball plunger rubber. It needs to be touching the fork for a solid hit.

The spring #4 will become compressed over time and allow the plunger tip to move forward. You can adjust it back by adding some washers #6, but there is a limit to how many you should add. Once 3 or 4 washers isn't enough you need to replace the spring #4 and go back to 1 or 2 washers.

Marco has the newton wire form.

Mine had 3/4" piece missing on the right hand side, I cut and shaped a piece of stainless to cover and installed it with double sided tape. Looks and works just fine.

Looks better than I can do! Very nice.

The decals are available from Marco's

I will measure the flag on mine for you.

First off the flag measures 1 inch high and 2 3/8 wide and it wraps around the wire and sticks to itself. You end up with a flag that is 1 inch high by 1 1/8 wide after wraping.

MustangPaul that is very nice of you to offer, you have a great collection. The next time I need to go to the cities I will give you a PM, Thanks. And the same goes to you, you can play or go fishing, if your in my neck of the woods.

Did you mean lost once in a while.

Its not a paper sticker, more like a stiff plastic or mylar.

There is only the one flag on my game.

With two votes it's official, one flag only.

You need to have voltage on both lugs of the coil, if not the coil has a break in the winding.

Just make one out of a piece of stainless steel and install with double sided tape. My right ramp is missing @ 3/4 inch of the right side. The piece I made is about 5 inches long and extends over the missing part of the ramp.

I looked 2 year ago for a new ramp, nothing.... so I made my fix.

When you pull it back out of the way the ball rolls back and touches the fork, that's why it works then. The ball must contact the forks. The reason your shooter is in to far is because your spring on the outside of the game has compress over time and now needs to be replaced. You can try and stretch it but it might not last very long. It should be around a inch long.

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=285
It happened to me too.

It could be made to work if you want to.

I think this is Q-5 not Q-9.

This is because its wired incorrect. All switches must be wired just like the picture.

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The pinouts on switches isn't the same from brand to brand. But you can only wire switches one way . Green wire to NO. Band side of diode to the COM. Non band side of the diode and white wire to the NC. You need to double check all the wires on all the switches on the garage.

Good luck finding one. I just made my own and it works great.

You need a piece of thin stainless @ .040-.060 thick. I use the long paddle blade off a flow switch just because I have them and there free. I make a paper template to fit the ramp and transfer it to the stainless. Cut it out and file the edges smooth, bend it the shape of the curve of the ramp and install it with double sided tape. My ramp had a hole in it @ the size of a ball and this covered it up and made the ramp 100% usable again.

TIP is a transistor, P22NE10L is a mosfet.

Replace it with this.
http://www.thepinballwizard.net/index.php?p=product&id=515

No you don't have to replace the sound chip. However you must upgrade the display and CPU roms together to work correctly.

Here are my old set of roms. I didn't change my sound roms, as I didn't think there would be that much difference in them.

IMG_20180806_210649 (resized).jpg

KingBW if your right ramp entrance isn't cracked yet, you should make a protector for it. Mine was missing @ 3/4 inch on the right hand side of the ramp and I took a piece of stainless flat stock to cover the hole. I attached it with double sided 3M tape after cutting and shaping it to fit. Also you should add a piece of lexan under the test car so the ball stops hitting the car and hits the lexan instead. I also opened up the mounting holes of the garage mechanism so that i could twist it slightly to aim it where it needs to be, then drill a new small hole and add a screw to lock it in place after aiming it correctly. Now I only have 1 ball out of 100 go down the middle instead of 1 out of 3 when I got the game.

This is your problem, this must be fixed first.

Voltage doesn't flow, current flows. Voltage is present or it isn't. So with DMM set to DC volts and black lead stuck under the ground braid, use the red lead to test for voltage. First check both sides of the fuse, if present on one side then the fuse is bad.
Then check the coil for voltage on both lugs. If only present on one lug the coil is bad.

Oh Yeah don't mess with people from HELL.

Solenoid #14 is also transistor #14. The corroded transistor is #5 and is another issue all together.

If you look at page 8 of the manual, follow solenoid #14 to the right and it shows a separate fuse for the garage coils. Its a 3 amp fuse mounted under the playfield to the left of the garage. This most likely blew when the bracket broke and the coil shorted out.

I noticed the same thing with mine after the upgrade. Try replacing the coil sleeve to see if that is enough to fix it.

Use a Q tip dipped into a mixture water and 10 % baking soda and wash off Q-5 and the board around it. Do this a few times and then rinse with 97% alcohol a few times. Then let dry for an hour before turning on the power.

I noticed the car attaches to the garage with two different nuts, one has a raised bushing that fits the hole in the bracket. Should they both be the same? I found it worked better with the bushing nut on the right side

They both need to be the same. You tighten the screws and nuts tight holding the bushing in place and the car will pivot on the bushings.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/530-5698-00

Marcos still has them in stock.

I removed the garage from the play field and opened up the mounting holes with a drill. Then I remounted it to the play field and I could move it slightly left and right. After a few slight adjustments it hits the left flipper 99% of the time.

Let me check my parts drawer when I get home tonight. I remember buying a spare, but I don't know if I sent it with the game when I sold it.

Sorry man, I must have left the parts in the coin box when I sold it.

Since your not selling these and I sold my pin and I would not hang this on my wall. What would the not for sale price be for me not to hang on my wall and throw in the trash?

There was an upgraded coil stop and rom update for this issue. Marco's use to have them for sale and they are still in stock.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/502-5043-86

That is part of the changes when using the updated Rom chip.

Your past the 3.40 update. I noticed that a few coils acted different when I updated from 1.02 to 3.40 code. Mostly a bit softer hit. I sold the game a few years ago and my recollection is a bit fussy now.