I would like to announce I have purchased fiftyquids NASCAR and am part of the club. I love buying machines that have the major issues dealt with.
A fun game that fits my auto theme (High Speed, Checkpoint).

I am looking for some ideas for a topper. I have a relative going to the Michigan race so it would be nice to have a few ideas.
Post some pics of your custom toppers.

I am having a few on and off micro switch issues. The odd time I get problems with pit row. But tje bad one is when the garage will not open. But I fired the game up the other day and everything was working just fine.
I am going to have my tech check the identified microswitches and I have ordered some spares.
I am considering a scale model pace car for a topper. I guess if I was a watcher of racing I would go with a favourite driver.

Any tips on rubber replacement? Looks lile the top left by the infield will be a real pain to get at.
I also wouldn't mind lubing the hauler while I am already tearing things down.
Just wondering if there are any been there done that tips.
Not in any hurry right now. Nice weather = yard work. Lots and lots of yard work....

I was considering drilling a hole in the scoop to put in a rubber mushroom coil stop to give the ball a bit more of a random kickout. Less sdtm
Using a self adhesive felt for a chair foot.

Didn't tell me the secret and I bought the game from you fifty...
Great game. Learn to lock from the left flipper. Way easier.

So what's the best mode to be in when starting multiball?
I have had right sides only going and so far the best for scoring was having hard racing active.

I just did superfan and multiball 40+ million.
The outer track was scoring.

Plan on swapping out your garage bushings. Keep the action smooth.

Looking forward to the Laughing Clown Malt Liqour side art re-theme.
Wonder Bread is a bit too 'white bread'.....

Having an issue with pit row. Claims the coil but I am leaning toward the opto first.
Sometimes it doesn't hold a lock. Others it won't register and can't find the ball in pit row.
I cleaned and put the assemblies back on.
No luck. Still get pit row errors on both coils. Coils firing during play when they should be idle. Drains noy registering and new balls being released.
Looking pretty weird.
Gonna have to call my tech.

Added over 8 years ago: Removal of assembly and cleaning all contacts has currently put the issue to bed.

Big massive pile up/crash translight is the way to go...

I am having some trouble finding an era specific Rudd plate (Rusty is pretty easy) so I am using a Harvick plate for a glare guard until I can get all 3 plates for a topper.
Did a flipper coil cleaning today.
I may have to re-adjust the angle a little as I am crashing (what I call airballs on Nascar) a whole lot more than before the cleaning.
The left flipper was just filthy.

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No OCD board. There is a nice empty space for one in the bottom left of the cabinet.
I looked some up. I am a bit leery about "should" work.
Epecially when I live hours from the nearest pin parts store.

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Thanks.
My hauler coil doesn't always fire every tme and I was wondering how the heck you get into that area a bit easier.
Even when I had the area torn down for a rubber swap it wasn't readily accessible.

Two years of casual play and still not there yet.....
Good for you.

Any problems with the pinblades?
I was considering them. The whole ram the pf forward to get it in makes me a bit leery about narrowing the gap. Plua the whole scratching the crap out of them.

Yeah fast shots will be by before it deploys.
I would guess that the right spinner during infield party mode is the trigger to deploy.

Last damn mode to come on.....
The switch in the pf above either spinner activates the post during infield party.
Tried both sides. Both activate the up post/infield diverter.

I myself have a felt chair foot pad stuck under the scoop.
I was considering drilling a hole and using a rubber coil stop.
Some have suggested mounting the garage a bit off amd making new holes.

Watched the video.
Definitely NOT getting a tach mod.
Does not appear to match up well with play. Either at 0 or stuck redlined.
Probably better on a Checkpoint but it already has the PF tach.
I am thinking custom painted/skin for the test car is the way to go. Especially if you have a favourite driver.
Maybe, maybe mirror blades for some more flash from leds. (no real added value like leds or a color dmd)
The flipper bat mod just looks cheesy/cheap (imo).

Look at the bright side.
As Grand Prix was the export model you should actually pay a bit more for spare parts. As they will be coming from all over the globe.

Just love how ipd calls Dale Jr a GP le.

I heard Nascar racing is dying. Just didn't think we were all jumping on the F1 bus...

Finally got to the winners circle.

I added a plastic Harvick plate for a glare guard and some superbands to speed things up.
Jr is retiring .......

My strategy is get road course lit and start collecting champ letters.
Also helps to have a mode going before starting multiball.
Had some limited success wirh left ramp on ball 1 to move my place up.

Here's a pic of my chips. Hope it helps.

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It may be as simple as the test car being too tight and not regestering hits. Even when it won't raise/lower it will still do modes.
I use zip ties on the test car.

I had the black piece of metal on the inside left of the scoop pop up and stay up during play. Looks like it keeps the assembly tight and discourages lateral movement.
Too bad its not attached in some way.
I would use super glue/epoxy but all the scoop movement would make it temporary at best.
Anyone else had to deal with this?

May as well clean and re-grease the bushings while I have it dis-assembled.

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Whew, had me a little worried when it popped up yesterday. Didn't see it in the manual.

I put it back in as I do like that it keeps it tighter.

Yeah, I could hardly wait to get a third machine so that Nascar wouldn't be my worst title.
Still my B but now I have a C.
The whole outer track is so Nascar.
I call my airballs crashes.

I seem to have broken the garage raise lower switch arm.
Put in 2 switches already. Going to have to have my tech look at it.
Not easy with a soldering gun as opposed to a iron.
Have a bunch of spare switches for everywhere else...
Its going to need some arm bending to have it contact just right.
Hopefully I will see my tech on friday with my sys 7 board.

Ok, now this is starting to piss me off.
I turn on the machine and the garage goes up and down 3 times.
It will do the initial pop up but won't stay up.
Tests out fine in nascar and coil test modes.
I have recently swapped out the switch on the side of the garage assembly (a few times as I had to 'adjust' a generic switch to the task).

Really starting to piss me off.
I was going to take off the garage and have my tech re-install the switch but I intalled it just like the old one.
Just don't know why it's not working right.
I know the 3 up downs is trying to tell me something...

I got my garage back today with a new switch installed on the side up/down area.
I had some trouble getting it to go down all the way initially. I adjusted the rubber behind it as it was binding.
Still doesn't want to stay up when its suppose to.
Works fine in test mode.
Nascar test mode says check switch 39, check coil q9
Switch 39 was just swapped out and works in test mode. Wtf?

I previously had the triangle. Above the garage next to the blue thumper bumper rubber all the way around. Put it to the back of the 2 posts. Can' t recall if it was like that when I put in new rubber.
Could explain how I broke that one after a few months.
Still easier to swap the rubbers than some of the other titles over the years.

My tech suspects a logic problem. Hopefully I will see him on the weekend.

Tech buddy came by yesterday.
Garage still broke.
Nascar test mode claims switch 39 or coil Q9

So we have it narrowed down to:
1) The garage up coil is getting weak and not raising the garage enough for the side coil mech spring to lock it in the up position. This I doubt as it raises just fine in the single coil test.
2) the arm on the side of the mech (service bulletin 160) has somehow failed but not in single coil test. Again doubtful
3) the coil spring in the mech is weak and not deploying fast enough during play, nascar test mode. Maybe
4) coil Q9 on the side of the mech is somehow becoming energized during play and keeping the mech from locking. My gut feeling.

So far no fix. Board component tested fine (I socketed that chip the first time I had garage issues). Even tried the old overpowered coil the came with and all I did was blow the fuse and the board chip.

Tech is hopefully coming back friday.
Could use a few ideas.

Manual is with my tech.
Lucky for me school is back in so he will be by friday.
I replaced the transistor that I blew by putting in the bigger coil.
So I watched as tying and trying to lock in the up position (started game hit the test car switch). Looked inside and it looks like the coil on the side of the garage is powered up.
Let it cool off and tried again.
This time I grabbed the garage and the coil finally let it lock in the open position. I drained that ball after scoring a few points and the garage didn't reset to the down position.
Nascar test now says its switch 39 but didn't complete the test.
Garage does not reset (3 up and downs) on startup currently.
My tech is feeling that the switch chart and the garage schematic don't appear to be the same when it comes to switch 39 being normally open or closed.
2 hours into it so far (with my tech) god knows how many on friday.
Has anyone put in one of the switches with the roller on the end? I got those when I ordered replacements. I am concerned that the mech may not roll and just catch the arm.
We did have some limited success when removing the diode from switch 39.
A pic or two of your switch 39 areas may help. Especially if it's a replaced switch 39.

In my opinion it's probably the wiring. I wouldn't be overly suprised.
Especially when we it was working mostly correctly with the switch diode disconnected.
Funny thing is now iy doesn't reset (3 up and downs) so I must be heading in the right direction.
My tech keeps leaning toward logic as the problem.
I am not a tech guy. May as well call Scotty or LaForge to babble something... "She canna take the strain cap'n"
Hopefully this will be all fixed tomorrow and I can post a result.
Doubly hoping it still works fine after my tech leaves.

So on my garage which side of the switch does the piggyback wire go to?
Normally open or closed.
Could use a cross referance on a 22ne10lstp mosfet. Looks like I may as well get a few.
Should be all fixed once I put in the transistor. Traced the wiring to the board, checked the q section. Roller ended switch was no hood as the garage caught it in the wrong spot and couldn't get the bend in it right without compromising the switch.

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Logic probe day for my garage issue.
Fingers crossed.
2:50 np luck again today. Currently game plays around the garage and enters modes.
Better than the constant lifting falling of the garage.
Nascar test said check switch 39. Pulled up the garage and the switch is fine(test light went out on the nascar test). Like its reading backwards.
Tech said it could be some bad data to the cpu and I should try to play ot a bit to see if some new data will fix it.
Otherwise it may be going to his house until ita fixed.

Its acting like open and closed are backwards on the switch. Chased down and marked the 3 wires: normally open, normally closed and piggyback (for the circut that daisy chains through).
It powers the q9 coil when the garage is suppose to be up (the coil on the side of the garage housing). I just get up (falls down), up, up, up, up......

I have tried it on other lugs.
That's why we had to trace the wiring back to be sure n.o. & n.c. were correct.
There's no 'treats' until the work is done.
Could be the generic replacement switches...

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That's the 'piggy back' that moves on to the next circuit. Wiring was 2 on 1 lug and 1 on another. For ease we just spliced it in until this issue is all figured out (metered it all to be sure it's connected).
I haven't zip tied it all back together yet either...

Ah, gee, thanks for selling me your Nascar Fifty.....

Just funning with ya 50.
Its a great game. Aside from a few minor garage issues its a fun game.
I can't say I have had any problems with the ramps.
Pull the garage fuse (right now) and I can still play it (albeit it is way too easy).
I have an upcoming trip to Cambridge to visit another pinsider restoring a Nascar and I will take my garage and know that day if it is a hardware issue. Hopefully a side by side comparison will reveal wtf is going on.

Looking to swap out my Q5.
Anyone have an idea on a more robust replacement?
Not your run of the mill TIP 102

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I will have a peek through my electronic component box. (looks simliar to the other garage transitors I have spares of)
My tech is hopefully coming by fri ot sat to pull it and install a socket.

Well, that wasn't it. Next is the U2 gate. Makes sense as the garage coil locks and the mech rises with the clock pulse.
Will socket along the way as always.

The garage is a pain to keep fixed. But it's too damn easy without it working.
Just socket as you fix stuff in case you need to go back later.

I could use some input on what is compatable with this...

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Don't forget the superbands and copius amounts of novus to make it super fast.
I have an era plastic Harvick plate for glare guard.

I can use either bracket.
My garage problem was identified in Nascar option test mode and further backtracked to be U2 on my board.

Garage was binding on the release where it turns square to go thru the side of the garage mech.
Greased it up for now. Will look for a stronger spring at the swap meet.

My problem was the opposite and it wouldn't stay up. (lubed where the side coil plunger goes through the garage bracket)
Try the nascar (car) test mode. That should identify the area.
Also try running the test with the playfield up and watch what's happening.
Could also be the main lift garage coil. I have not seen too may that have the 'stock' coil. It does get alot of use. Also not a cheap coil for the stock stern replacement.
Another early easy check is the garage bushings. (2 screws on the left side of the garage).

My wife took notice of the pinblade art on the Batman 66 we played on the weekend.
I am still on the fence for pinblades.
Was thinking mirror for Nascar to get all that led reflection.
Just not a real priority. Would rather have my $ ready for a color dmd (when it happens?!?).

Still waiting on the custom test car decals.....

Got back from vacation.
Now the garage won't raise.
Same problem q9 sw 39

Anyone have a spare garage assembly for sale?
Prefer in Canada but if the price is right...

Easy fix this time. A wire was off on the main up/down garage coil.

My nephew (23) and his buddy watched my house while I was away 2 weeks.
They only broke the nascar garage and put up 90 million.
Almost cheating when the garage isn't raising.

I have a piece of tape with 90 mill on Elivis.
HA! They couldn't unseat that high score.

My car is attached with zip ties.
When they break, it's time to clean.
Gives the assembly lots of room to move.

The speaker panel mod looks pretty good.

Still having the odd issue with the garage binding. Appears to be the switch side.
Cleaned and re-greased the bushings and greased the track on the switch side.

Otherwise solid, waiting for the color dmd.....

Did get the keychain? (thanks again fifty)
This machine originally had 2 translights.
One has 'Rusty' in place of the beer logo on his car.

Be prepared.
Have a few spare light sockets and a set of garage bushings.
Be careful of the switch on the slide side. I broke that once seating the assembly.

Maybe you grounded out somewhere. Have a close look around.
I had it happen on my EM after fixing.

I had High Speed and Checkpoint.
Nascar seemed like the natural progression.

Plus it was available at the time and was on my short list.

Is Mustang next?

I could see this working (for me) as a printout or printed on a fridge magnet material.
I like to be able to remove mods.
I see this pin as a mirror blades candidate.
Don't forget the glare guard.

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I gotta say I do like the GP playfield art more but the callouts are a bit 'red-neck-y' for a F1 theme.

It's a fun game and I like the outer track feature.
If you are serious Fifty I will do you a solid.
3500 just cuz you're the previous owner.

Got a pic? I have a good idea of my spare parts by look.
Plus then I know what to keep an eye out for.

My brother is a machinist.
Looks pretty simple if you have a buddy.
Mine tends to bind in the square thru the bracket. I have to grease that area and tab on the other side if the garage bracket.
Could also try reseating the coil stops on the side bracket. If that coil wiggles too much it could cause the binding in the latch.
God knows how many times I have torn the garage apart.

If you are planning on swapping the car out.
Go with the 1/43 action pewter.
There's a #3 Ernhart available.........

Mine is starting to eject 2 balls at start of ball 1. Looks like the 'new' trough board isn't as good as the original.
I swapped them out when I jad to do it to my other stern.
And damn if soft coil pulse isn't fixing it either.
Funny it always runs the trough test just fine.

Nice. I can put that chunck of parrafin wax to good use.
It's for more that just wooden playfield cab guides.

Thank goodness Harvick signed for 4 more years.
Running out of current drivers on the BG
Jr who???

Need a new updated MAGA backglass

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Ricky Bobby conversions!

I have not had those issues.
I am aware that the accelerator magnets tend to attract dirt, debris.

Mine came with zip ties holding the test car on.
Once one of them breaks it is time for some cleaning and new ties.

I think I'll hold out for the pewter 1:43 car.
If your gonna bash it to death it may as well have started off as a decent collectable...
Plus I like the look a bit better. Just have to find a Harvick.

At least the cabinet was a wrap to begin with.
May I suggest looking for suitable replacement for the test car.
In Nascar I am looking for a Harvick
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The Scanner
Outhole kicker for the random prize.
I don't know whos hat or shirt you get.

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Get new garage bushings.

Mine came with these 3.

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Oh yeah, I had a problem with one of my other Sterns with optos.
They were cheap so I did both my sterns.
Personally, I had some trouble with the garage and socketed those components.
Nvram was plug and go.

Area behind the hauler should also get extra attention. Make sure the switches are reading well back there. A hard area to get at later.

Looking for some input.
Game plays fine until multiball.
Ball will sit behind the hauler scoring jackpot a few times before it finally ejects.
Works just fine otherwise.

Programming?