I like it too but mine's been down for a couple of weeks. Still trying to diagnose a switch/coil issue.

I have the SDTM issue and will get that figured out when its back up and running.

Ricky Bobby is such a great idea I can't belie love I never thought if it.

I've got a NASCAR and a dale Jr. and trying to figure out what to do with them.

This might be the right project for me now!

Ron you don't seem like a nib NASCAR guy more like a restored Williams GP guy.

Go to std adjustment 45 and set the fast boot to no. It will show the code version when you restart.

Mine is v5.

Guys,

I'm having trouble with the ramp switch behind the truck.

It wasn't activating all the time so I tried to adjust it, now it never works.

Any hints on how to adjust this one? It is so hard to get too, I only want to get back into it one more time.

Mark.

Sorry I wasn't more detailed.

No the switch works, it's the shape of the metal trigger, or whatever it's called.

I bent it to try to get it more consistent but now the ball doesn't activate it.

Saw this on another NASCAR but it wasn't bad enough to deal with.

Was reaching out to see if anyone had a good bulletproofing fix for it.

Well I spent way too much time on the issue this morning, but I got it working.

I hate this pf because I could never get to the back of the ramps and this switch/coil. I figured out how to get to it, but I'm sure most people have already done it before.

I pulled out the pf and placed the end of the rails in the notch under the lockdown bar. Then I lifted the rear of the pf straight up and slid a roll of shrink wrap underneath and across the side rails. I placed it under the drop-down target assembly so I wouldn't bend anything. This was a little front heavy, but it worked great to get to the rear of the pf.

With this easy access, I was able to adjust the switch and get the coil tightened up too. The ball wasn't always ejecting on the first try, so I cleaned up the plunger and tightened the ramp mounts.

It worked out well. You can then take the back black piece off with four screws and one connector. Then you can lift the entire ramp assembly out to clean or work on that switch & coil.

Of course I figured all this out after putting my ramps back in.

I got it all back together after my cleaning waxing and rubbers. Worked on a few other switches to get the pit road/ multi ball working correctly.

Banged out a few dozen games and man it is fun. I've not ever played one this nice and it makes a difference. It is fast, fun, and deep.

I actually have two machines now, the other is out for board repair and is a reg NASCAR. Need to figure out which one to sell.

IMG_2131.JPG

been playing the crap out of this game to get it to break again.

The only thing I have notices is that rear coil is inconsistent. Sometimes it doesn't eject the ball, 10-20% of the time, and other times it shoots it so hard it flies out of the ramp and onto the playfield.

When I shopped it, I didn't replace anything on it, but tore it down and cleaned the plunger, sleeve, spring etc. made sure all the mounting screws were tight.

Now it is exponentially better and acceptable, but still annoying that its not perfect. Does everyone else see this?

I don't think the spinner deploys it, I believe it is up whenever you are in infield mode plus some other times.

If it doesn't work during the coil test, then there is an issue somewhere.

Look at post 130

The initial pop ups depend on the status on startup. Not sure what it is, but it isn't consistent.

Are you able to play everything else OK or are there other symptoms hidden in the playfield?

I had a similar problem a long time ago and it was the transistor Q5 on the MPU board. The garage would malfunction and the ball trough kicked out balls continually. It was a gradual problem, not instant. I played it for a while and it seemed to get worse over a few dozen plays.

I also remember the switch test not being 100% correct as I was diagnosing it.

Play it for a while and see if anything else is acting up. It could be the transistor going bad or switch diodes that are tied into it.

Remember, this was on of the first 'LE's so you got chrome and a start button. That's not how they start racecars by the way, its usually like an inset tournament button.

The manual is for stock NASCAR machine and does not include the start bulb. I busted mine taking off the glass and need to figure out the size as well, so post it if you ever figure it out.

Search starts while there is a ball in the shooter lane? That doesn’t seem right.

Check your shooter lane switch and make sure it is working properly.

No reason to think about a new board unless ther is something major hiding underneath. That’s an easy fix on a board designed to be repaired.