(Topic ID: 108647)

Nascar J10 is causing F21 to blow

By V8haha

9 years ago


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  • 23 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by phishrace
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nascar metal.JPG
nascar Q3.JPG
nascar bottom jet.JPG
nascar bridge.JPG
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Nascar photo.JPG
#1 9 years ago

hello

i have a HUO nascar
J10 is causing F21 to blow instantly as soon as i turn on the game I've tryd a few different times.
i know its J10 because I've tested the other coils.
the 4th pin on J10 looks like its a little burnt (see photos)

ive tested all coils for resistance with my DMM
all coils came back between 12 and 4.

all coils look good with no signs of issues.

the bottom jet pop bumper coil however has no diode on it (see Photos) every other coil in the game has a diode.

i took a photo of Q3 transistor as it looks different from the rest. (see photo)

also took a photo of the diode next to Q3 as one end looks like there is no solder on it at all. no other diodes on the board look like this not sure what its from. (see photo)

also took a photo of a bridge that looks a little burnt. (see photo)

i have no idea where to go from here. any suggestions?
I've already updated the rom and they changed nothing.
No coil seems to be stuck as their all in the resting position.

please help

#2 9 years ago

what would the 4th pin on J10 control on Nascar? i have tryd to look it up and i can't make sense of it. The williams manual seems a lot easier to read then sterns.

also noticed metal shavings by the box in the cabinet any idea what that could be from?

Nascar photo.JPGNascar photo.JPG nascar diod.JPGnascar diod.JPG nascar bridge.JPGnascar bridge.JPG nascar Q3.JPGnascar Q3.JPG nascar bottom jet.JPGnascar bottom jet.JPG nascar metal.JPGnascar metal.JPG
#3 9 years ago

bump if anyone has ideas

#4 9 years ago
Quoted from V8haha:

hello
i have a HUO Nascar
J10 is causing F21 to blow instantly as soon as i turn on the game I've tryd a few different times.
i know its J10 because I've tested the other coils.
the 4th pin on J10 looks like its a little burnt (see photos)

Pins 4 and 5 on J10 power a bunch of different coils. Find the coil chart in the front of the manual to see which ones. If you don't have a manual, you can download one from Stern's website.

Quoted from V8haha:

ive tested all coils for resistance with my DMM
all coils came back between 12 and 4.
all coils look good with no signs of issues.
the bottom jet pop bumper coil however has no diode on it (see Photos) every other coil in the game has a diode.

It likely has a diode on the other side of the bobbin.

Quoted from V8haha:

i took a photo of Q3 transistor as it looks different from the rest. (see photo)

It's definitely been replaced and it connects to J10, but I wouldn't replace it yet.

Quoted from V8haha:

also took a photo of the diode next to Q3 as one end looks like there is no solder on it at all.

Should be soldered. Solder it. Once you've soldered it, put a good fuse in, plug in J10 and power up the game. Watch for coils locking on as you power up the game. If the fuse blows but no coils lock on, you likely have a short on the wires from J10 pins 4 and 5 to the coils, or you missed a bad coil powered by one of those wires. Check the coil chart in the manual to make sure you've tested all the coils powered thru J10. If they all test good, check for a short on the wires from J10 to each coil. If any coils lock on when you power the game up, test the transistor driving that coil, which is also listed on the coil chart.

#5 9 years ago

It likely has a diode on the other side of the bobbin.

i checked both sides and neither side has a Diode. The jet bumpers all worked flawlessly before this issue.

It's definitely been replaced and it connects to J10, but I wouldn't replace it yet.

I'm surprised its been replaced as this is a home use game and the owner didn't mention it at all.

in the past when i turned it on i didn't notice any coils sticking on ill check again.

that diode with no solder on one end what could have caused that? do you think that may be my issue? like i said the game hasn't given me any issues at all its worked perfectly then all of a sudden this happened.

#6 9 years ago

Fuse 21 (3 amp slo blow) protects J10 pin #4 and #5. This is a 50 volt output . Wire color is yellow/violet. Follow these wire out to the play field to ensure that they are not pinched or the wire insulation has not rubbed through to ground. C

#7 9 years ago

J10 pins 4&5 feed coil # 1,2,3,5,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,13 and 14. If the fuse blows as soon as you boot the game up and no coils are locking on, then you have a short to ground on one of the 50 volt feed circuits to one of these coils.

#8 9 years ago
Quoted from V8haha:

It likely has a diode on the other side of the bobbin.
i checked both sides and neither side has a Diode. The jet bumpers all worked flawlessly before this issue.

Then it's probably on a terminal strip attached to the bottom of the playfield. There should be a page in the parts section of the manual showing the location of all the terminal strips.

The diode should be soldered. If you know how to use a meter, you should test the diode before soldering it. Get the diode squared away before you go any farther.

#9 9 years ago

thanks guys so much for the help!

as for the diode on the board itself thats missing solder. how does something like that happen?

also if a wire is grounded somewhere how would that happen without lifting the play field or moving the machine. no adjustments had been made before these issues.

#10 9 years ago

You have moving parts under the playfield that can rub wires if they are too close, and over time cause the insulation to wear off and contact the wire causing the short.

#11 9 years ago

Update!

So it's the trucker ramp eject coil. I looked at the wires going to the cable and their punched by a metal bracket on the game 4 wires total 2 for the switch 2 for the cable.

The rubber was rubbed off on the two wires leading to the cable.

I disconnected the coil and switch at the Z connector on the game turned the game on and no blown fuse everything worked except for that coil of course.

I took electrical tape wrapped all the wires plugged the coil back in and turned the game on. The fuse blew instantly.

Do I need a new coil or the wires? Or both?

The coil still reads 4 on resistance.

#12 9 years ago

Nice work. Before the fuse blew, did the offending coil fire (lock on)? The short may have also shorted the driving transistor. If the coil did lock on before the fuse blew, you need to test the transistor. The manual will tell you which transistor to test and the pin wiki should have some tips on testing transistors.

#13 9 years ago

no the coil didn't seem to lock on at all. it just stayed dead, there was no ball in the hole to trigger the switch.

i will say i tryd before i knew where my problem was and put a ball in that eject spot and put a fuse in. the coil fired normally once and shot the ball out before it blew. that time i tryd a 4amp fuse instead of a 3amp. (i know not the best idea but i was running out of 3 amp fuses.

any idea what i do from here guys?

#14 9 years ago

Disconnect one side of the diode on that coil and test the diode.

#15 9 years ago

which side do i disconnect?

im guessing I'm trying to see if the diode is still working properly but only letting current go in one direction?

also could the wires be causing it or not because now they are wrapped in electrical tape...

thanks in advance this problem is over my head so I'm trying to keep up

#16 9 years ago
Quoted from V8haha:

which side do i disconnect?
im guessing I'm trying to see if the diode is still working properly but only letting current go in one direction?
also could the wires be causing it or not because now they are wrapped in electrical tape...
thanks in advance this problem is over my head so I'm trying to keep up

Cut or unsolder either side. Yes, testing to see if the diode is working properly (or shorted). You need a meter set to diode test. Tutorial videos on youtube if you haven't done it. Replacement diodes available at Radio Shack. 1N4004

Assuming you properly separated the wires before taping them, they shouldn't be causing the issue.

#17 9 years ago

ok tested the Diode and it tested good. .541 and o.L on the other direction so its stopping current one way and letting it through the other.

coil is testing good.

i know its that coil because when i unplug the Z connector to that coil it plays fine without blowing a fuse.

does stern sell the entire assembly? coil switch and wire?

#18 9 years ago

Cant buy the whole assembly. If the coil resistance is good and the diode is good, you either have a short in the wiring or you reconnected the wires backwards. Follow the wires from the coil back to the driver board and look for shorts. Remove the tape you used earlier and cut and resolder either wire if needed (more than one or two strands broken).

#19 9 years ago

Ok checked lines again put some solder on the cracks in the lines taped them back up. Now when I plug everything back in and power in I see that the coil itself is sticking on.

Q3 is the transistor for that coil and I took a photo of it above as it's been replaced before.

Is Q3 likly the issue since the coil stuck on?

If so how difficult is it to replace Q3 am I better of sending it in for work.

#20 9 years ago

bump any thoughts

#21 9 years ago

what version of the software are you running, I remember reading somewhere about a problem with one of the version that was causes failures related to a coil and or fuses.... make sure you have the latest roms, not to say that is the cause or will fix your problem....good luck!

#22 9 years ago
Quoted from CafeOne:

what version of the software are you running, I remember reading somewhere about a problem with one of the version that was causes failures related to a coil and or fuses.... make sure you have the latest roms, not to say that is the cause or will fix your problem....good luck!

thanks for your input i read the same thing when searching about this issue so i purchased the newest rom and had that installed. No luck it didn't change anything.

Im thinking Q3 is bad.

#23 9 years ago
Quoted from V8haha:

Im thinking Q3 is bad.

Are you sure the switch that triggers that coil isn't stuck closed? If yes, then you need to test Q3. Look on the pin wiki to see how to do that.

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