Had a South Park that would not boot up right and would start with the flashing lights and clicking relay.

Turns out after a lot of checking for continuity on the CPU board there was one leg on the game eprom chip that was not getting a good contact with the socket. There was the smallest bit of corrosion that was messing it up. Put on a new socket and all has been good ever since. I would start by checking the legs on that chip to points on the back of the board or test points with a DMM to make sure you have continuity through that socket.

I'm no expert, but that's what mine was. Good luck.

You said you already swapped the board. And I don't think the suggestion was a new game rom. It was that in his case, a leg of the EEPROM wasn't making good contact. The solution would be reflowing solder or jumping traces.

So when you swapped "io board" you actually swapped the power board? And then it "came right up"?

Read the title to this thread and immediately the image of a NASCAR race car sitting in pit row with a Denver boot on it popped into my head. Thought I'd share that with you. Now back to the actual thread...

I would also suggest a chip not seating properly.

I just had my Corvette (wps95S) do similar things. One of the chips of the games rom wasn't contacting properly. I cleaned the chips legs and cleaned the socket with some quality Contact cleaner (oil free stuff!)

I also had my TSPP doing similar things yesterday. It was the power feed going to the CPU board. The molex connector on the bottom left hand side if the board. Those molexes can look fine but not be making good contact. I just cut em off and put on a new one. Takes 5 minutes. Plus clean the male connectors (on the board) with some fine sandpaper and then some contact cleaner to clean off all the residue.

Also check the neighbouring connector on the power board, as this has voltages coming in as well. And the ribbon cable that joins them. Again, a quality contact cleaner on the connectors and cables can work wonders.

Sorry I am not at home or I would give you the connector numbers that I am referring to.

Good luck O-din!

rd.

Also .... From left of centre ... Check the plugs that come out of the transformer to the board. Again, those big connectors can go funky.

The TSPP I referenced had been in storage for a while, the jumper plug wasn't making good contact and it wouldn't fire up at all. One of the pins wasn't making contact. I pushed it back in, gave everything a contact clean and away it went.

rd.

Ok so it didnt work after swapping the power board. This is how your original post sort of read. You swapped the power board and "it came right up".

So if you completely remove the EEPROM and power up, does it behave the same way as it does when it acts up and before you hit reset? If so, I'd suspect the EEPROM socket, traces, etc

Also, is this a 5136 or 5300? I suspect a 5300 for NASCAR. Be aware if you try the older white star in a game that requires the 5300 board, it won't have sound.

I am pretty sure you won't see anything without the CPU chip installed.

Did you swap the CPU with your TSPP?

rd.

Man, after working on my TSPP for a couple of hours yesterday and getting a f**king good shock from a broken coil, I would definitely recommend going for the Jack ....

I'm hitting a few beers right now! It's 5.30pm on Friday.

In New Zealand we call that BEER O'CLOCK.

rd

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Oooooooh yeah!

I am coming to LA next April for a week or so, on the way to the IFPA in Denver.

It'd be cool to catch up with you and all the LA crew ....

rd.

Book it in Ooooooooo-Din!

We arrive in LA on the 23rd April and will be there for 7 or 8 days.

Looking forward to it. I've been to LA a dozen times, but not since 2006.

rd.

Looks like a good one!

The good news is you can buy a brand new WPC CPU for about $160.

Not worth repairing them if you can get a brand new one for that price.

rd.

And that I shall!!

I found an Apollo 13 like that a few weeks ago. Was not on my shopping list at all. It was in a guys shed and hadn't been played for a while.

Everything was nice except the powdercoat trim and legs had gone a little rusty.

$100 and they were all nice and black again! Winner!

rd.

Hopefully that will fix it for you o-din!

rd.

That looks pretty minimilist O .... A nice easy one day shop job

rd.

I don't think I have played a Nascar yet. I have played Grand Prix which is basically identical. Pretty cool when the ball loops around the outside of the playfield.

I'll play yours in April

rd

I think Nascar is one of the most underrated games around that price point. I love mine and don't see it going anywhere anytime soon. Getting to wizard mode is a blast, and while its pretty tricky, it not impossible like some other games.

For me the most satisfying shots are hitting the rotating car and moving up a place. And also trying to drop the target on the right for champ letters and bonuses. Shooting the right ramp is also pretty satisfying for some reason.

You power bill will be in danger.

NASCAR has gotten twice the plays Spider-Man has over thanksgiving. These are people that make fun of NASCAR too.

I have this resetting problem as well and will use your advice and experience to see if it fixes mine. I will update as soon as I do it. Gotta love Pinside for all the valuable information!!

So i finally got around to fixing my nascar.
Here is what is was doing - When you turned the game on it just flashed the controlled lamps on and off. If you hit the reset button on the cpu board the game would start up. so anytime you wanted to play the game you had to take the translite off and reset the CPU.
From what I researched I found it had to do with the navram chip the previous owner installed. this specific game would not work with a navram chip due to the power request taking too long to be processed by the chip? (that's a guess). I replaced it with an original chip and just put a battery pack back on and the game is working fine again.

80BCEA27-9C54-4DB9-A759-697B2C91BD96 (resized).jpeg

The picture below shows the board before I changed it. The button I am pointing to is the reset button I had to push to start a game every time I wanted to play it. The circled chip is what I replaced to rectify the problem. I also had to put a new battery pack on it since the old chip was replaced

65F6032E-36BB-481C-A4DA-858B7D396B4D (resized).jpeg

i just fixed a nascar as well. it was the 6264

And was your issue not booting up and the lights flashing?

yes click... click... click..

Interesting