Awesome game, and I'm glad it's FINALLY starting to get some love/respect.

Mine had the revision 3 ROMs from the factory, as well as the normally missing display ROM at U6, so I'd have to dig through notes to recall everything that was changed/added. I do remember that the tilt warning animation (creepy guy pointing at you) was added, as well as a change to how the wizard mode is started.

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Check to see if you have a loose connection on one of the coil wires (or if one of the small coil winding wires is broken), or perhaps something is goofy with the coil sleeve or plunger/link if it was just being slow before. It's a pretty simple and reliable mech, so it should be an easy fix.

Yeah, in the last couple years the prices have come up a lot, but it's not just that....it's that we're starting to see a lot more posts with people talking about how much they enjoy it. That's what I truly enjoy seeing, especially being the Alvin G nut that I am.

Oh, it has a direct feed (the secret door), just only during cetain modes. It is frustrating that it ended up like that....but originally there was supposed to be an upper playfield that dropped the ball down in front of that flipper.

I have a hate/hate relationship with the Pandora's box mode. Just as you said, it's a good way to drain a ball.....and not get much for it. I let it time out every time. I will say, the sound effects are cool though.

Doom mode is probably my favorite. Other ones that I really enjoy: dragon idol, coat of arms, and painting. Who am I kidding, the whole game rocks (except for Pandora)

Neo,

Are you sure the game you were playing was working 100%? There is no way on earth someone can play a MC for that long and rack up such a low score. Let's assume you're being a bit sarcastic and you're actually above a few million....that would still be very hard to do! I've had mine for about 6 years and had many piss poor games, but even those were in the 70-80 million range. Some of my better ones getting up around 2 billion.

More to the point, if you play for 20 minutes, you're going to see ALL the modes, several of which have ramp shots worth 5 million+ a piece. Something's not adding up.

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It's great to meet another crazy Alvin G collector here!

Don't forget about the flipperless version of USA Football. Pinside doesn't have an entry for it since it's a flipperless game (mine is added in as just another head-to-head). Only 11 made, and it's pretty boring, but I'll keep you in mind if I run across another one.

I have a friend that's looking into finishing the prototype Slam 'N Jams and doing a small run. So we may have that to look foward to!

Definitely check into what Brian Suggested, but FWIW, I've had a couple failures of the diodes on the top side of these Alvin G light boards. A new diode got the light going again, but be careful, as those traces lift easily....

Yep, just a normal game here, but nice looking. They had a lot of leftover World Tour cabinets (and playfields.... hence the crapload of NOS ones that are out there), so who knows how many ended up getting re-screened for MC.

Regarding the speckled MC cabinets, as Brian said they seem to come and go throughout the run. I asked former art director Dan Hughes about why there were 2 different cabinet versions and he said Churchill screwed up and delivered some without the white speckles. They were all supposed to have them....

This could be, but the majority of them have been going for what Brian mentioned. Have been for a few years now....

Yeah, these would be great. I sold a lot of NOS MC ramp sets over the years and always wished I had decals for them. The old ones can be tricky to take off and salvage/transfer.

I am working on getting flipper pawls reproduced, but still very early in the process, so who knows if it'll happen....

It happens from time to time. One thing that helps a bit is to bend the wall-type ball guide to the left of the kickout hole. Push the top of the guide (part closest to the hole) out towards the siderail, and push the top of the lower part of the ball guide in towards the playfield a bit. Basically, you're slightly twisting the whole thing to push the ball away from the outlane.

Scott,

I always change the lamps from the topside of the playfield. Just strip anything off that's in the way. The ramps can be a pain to remove, but it's a lot less hassle to go this route than to pull staples and remove sockets. I finished stripping a MC playfield from a parted out game a while back (yes, definitely a shame someone trashed one of these rarities!), and it was quite a job removing the staples. I can't imagine doing it with a playfield in a cabinet, especially just to replace burnt out lamps.

Todd,

I will get you a scan from mine. Send me a PM as a reminder though, and keep on me so I don't forget. My scanner at home is broken so I'll have to take it somewhere when I get a chance....

Yes, Marco still has some in stock... http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/DTP-001

No problem. I'm glad to hear that you're enjoying it. It really is an amazing game. The artwork, music and layout just come together perfectly and it really draws you in. Have fun with it!

As Dan and Tom said, the angry moon is just a decal that is stuck to the backside of the backglass, BUT originally the plan was to have an angry moon plastic mounted on the light board with standoffs. These plastics pop up from time to time.

No, the sound boards in these 2 games are different.

Hey Dave. Congrats again on the game! The part number for the drop targets is indeed DTP-001, and it’s correct in the manual. What you saw is the part number for the plastic above the CASTLE drops. The parts are broken up on different pages. What you were looking at was the page for ball guides, plastics and rubbers. Flip back to game specific parts, and in the exploded view of the drop target assembly you’ll see the number. For what it’s worth, Alvin G & Co. tried to make part numbers make sense somewhat, so if you see a number like BUT-M08, you know it’s for a plastic....or Butyrate. Anyway, what Marco has should be NOS, but I can sell you some as well.

As far as the blue translucent targets go, I’m low on the blue ones, but you can try to find round translucent ones and cut the sides off to make them rectangular. I did that a lot when I was completely out of the proper part.

I have an art file for the bullseye drop target decals here, so I can send it to you to print some new ones.

Thanks, I’m glad to help where I can.

I’m going to check out my PCA-028’s here sometime to see if they can be made to work. I would think that they might be backward compatible somehow, but the board footprint and layout is much different, so wire lengths and connector issues might be a problem.

For some reason the angry moon decal was taped on at the factory instead of using the self adhesive on the decal. I’ve left mine alone. I’m guessing you could get that tape off the backglass masking okay, but it never bothered me enough to try.

I should have several still. I'll get it to you with whatever else we send your way.

No, they aren’t normal GI, they’re an alternate set of GI that is activated during Doom mode to give the playfield an eerie red glow.

You can clean the originals with rubber ring cleaner, but I’d just replace them with fresh rubber. Here you go: same part, except blue instead of gray.... https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=689

Without being able to hear it, I’m guessing your “loud pop” is normal. Every Alvin G game is very loud when turned off. That aspect of their system has always driven me nuts.

They are only illuminated in certain modes, so if the machine was just simply on and in attract mode, none of these will work. Go into lamp test to illuminate them.

Ahh, gotcha. Let me get back to you again sometime when I'm free and am near my machine. We'll get to the bottom of it.

I'd have to check, but I'm pretty sure I have more than one ball launch assembly left, and if so, I'll sell one. If not, I may still have just the plunger. Please shoot me a PM as a reminder to look in the stash...

Thank you, Tom, and @ClarkKent! You guys did a great job. I appreciate it very much!

All you other owners with spare ramps out there, please throw some business their way.

My original decal bit the dust about 13 years ago when I tried to remove it in order to install it on an NOS ramp. These can be very brittle, so be careful! I had been looking since then to find someone that could/would make them true to the originals, with all the transparent areas, and these guys came through. Thanks again!