(Topic ID: 64892)

Mystery Castle Fan Club


By DirtySouth

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 228 posts
  • 38 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 22 days ago by davebart5
  • Topic is favorited by 16 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 86 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

IMG_0548 (resized).jpg
IMG_0562 (resized).jpg
Target.pdf (PDF preview)
DSC01267 (resized).JPG
DSC01276 (resized).JPG
DSC01262 (resized).jpg
IMG_1730 (resized).JPG
IMG_1729 (resized).JPG
IMG_1732 (resized).JPG
IMG_1731 (resized).JPG
IMG_4040 (resized).JPG
IMG_4039 (resized).JPG
IMG_4038 (resized).JPG
IMG_4035 (resized).JPG
A3A4C84C-3A2D-4D3A-9506-9C9A11127041 (resized).jpeg
49E938D0-6284-43B4-9C29-27EA843AEEE6 (resized).jpeg

There are 228 posts in this topic. You are on page 5 of 5.
#201 5 months ago

I wanted to post some pics of my Mystery Castle restore. A big thanks to Matt Elder for answering lots of questions and providing some hard to find parts. My main goal was to be able to see more of the beautiful artwork on the plastics that are hidden under the ramp decals. I ended up using the organ decal, but none of the others. I fashioned new decals for the ramp entrances based off of the bridge ramp entrance. I also removed the ramp entrance banner lights as they obscured the view. Instead of the banner lights, I used LED strips under each of the 3 ramp entrances (and at the top of the rail for the dungeon/ballroom shots) and tied these into the banner lights. They light/flash just like the banner lights did...just without the banners obscuring the view.

Here's the list of things I've done in the restore:

Clearcoated playfield and cabinet
Powdercoated Armor (black with a baby blue/pink sparkle to match the artwork)
Chrome on rear metal coin door pieces, prop bar, lockdown receiver, playfield hangers, etc
Metal lower backglass channel and playfield glass receiver (also powdercoated)
Stapled GI light sockets replaced with standard sockets
All NOS coils
NOS ramps
NOS plastics
All boards refreshed by Clive @ Coinop Cauldron
NOS drop target banks, slings & pop bumpers
Blue plasma
Comet LEDs
Titan Rubbers

IMG_3947 (resized).JPG
IMG_3948 (resized).JPG
IMG_3949 (resized).JPG
IMG_3951 (resized).JPG
IMG_3952 (resized).JPG
IMG_3953 (resized).JPG
IMG_3954 (resized).JPG
IMG_3955 (resized).JPG

#202 5 months ago

Beautiful...You have 2 of these?!!!

#203 5 months ago
Quoted from kciaccio:

Beautiful...You have 2 of these?!!!

Yes - and oddly I acquired them both last year in Oklahoma - they are 7 serial numbers apart. It was super handy to have the 2nd one when re-assembling mine.

#204 5 months ago
Quoted from Damonator:

I wanted to post some pics of my Mystery Castle restore.

I'm curious about the guide to the inner orbit ramp. On my machine it seems slightly over-curved, making it more difficult to make the shot since the ball isn't directed straight up it, but more to the left side wall. I've only seen two examples, but they both had this issue. I'm tempted to fix this.

Are yours like that? Did you modify anything on your restore to make it play better?

Do you have any leftover parts? I need a few more things to build a second as well. The rear diverter is one thing I'm still searching for.

#205 5 months ago
Quoted from HighVoltage:

I'm curious about the guide to the inner orbit ramp. On my machine it seems slightly over-curved, making it more difficult to make the shot since the ball isn't directed straight up it, but more to the left side wall. I've only seen two examples, but they both had this issue. I'm tempted to fix this.
Are yours like that? Did you modify anything on your restore to make it play better?
Do you have any leftover parts? I need a few more things to build a second as well. The rear diverter is one thing I'm still searching for.

Here’s a pic of my tower entrance. The guide seems to send it straight up the ramp. All of the shots are smooth for me.

49E938D0-6284-43B4-9C29-27EA843AEEE6 (resized).jpeg

I don’t have a diverter sorry. I have used pops, drops and slings. I have a *few*
NOS plastics and most of the used ones, 2 used ramps and 1 NOS main ramp.

#206 5 months ago

It's hard to see from that angle: if you look straight down from behind the bridge ramp, does that guide really line up straight with the plastic ramp?

#207 5 months ago
Quoted from HighVoltage:

It's hard to see from that angle: if you look straight down from behind the bridge ramp, does that guide really line up straight with the plastic ramp?

Here’s a pic looking down the ramp.

A3A4C84C-3A2D-4D3A-9506-9C9A11127041 (resized).jpeg
#208 5 months ago

Thanks, that does look straighter into the ramp. I'll have to take mine out and try to adjust the bend. Hopefully that's all it takes, otherwise I may "re-hole" the playfield.

#209 5 months ago
Quoted from Damonator:

Here’s a pic of my tower entrance. The guide seems to send it straight up the ramp. All of the shots are smooth for me.
[quoted image]
I don’t have a diverter sorry. I have used pops, drops and slings. I have a *few*
NOS plastics and most of the used ones, 2 used ramps and 1 NOS main ramp.

How are your used ramps? My game is a player's machine and it works just fine, but both ramp entrances are blown out.

#210 5 months ago
Quoted from Damonator:

....... My main goal was to be able to see more of the beautiful artwork on the plastics that are hidden under the ramp decals. I ended up using the organ decal, but none of the others. I fashioned new decals for the ramp entrances based off of the bridge ramp entrance. I also removed the ramp entrance banner lights as they obscured the view. Instead of the banner lights, I used LED strips under each of the 3 ramp entrances (and at the top of the rail for the dungeon/ballroom shots) and tied these into the banner lights. They light/flash just like the banner lights did...just without the banners obscuring the view.

Do you have more pics of these LED strips "lit up" showing the different lighting ramp effect?

Great looking game!

#211 5 months ago
Quoted from fanuminski:

Do you have more pics of these LED strips "lit up" showing the different lighting ramp effect?
Great looking game!

It's hard to capture on camera, but the first three pics show the various locations with the LED strips - it basically flashes the middle of the ramp in white (or the color of your choice). The last pic shows gameplay where it's lighting both the strip and the flashers (blue flashers in my case). It's pretty obvious which ramps are lit without the banners.

IMG_4035 (resized).JPGIMG_4038 (resized).JPGIMG_4039 (resized).JPGIMG_4040 (resized).JPG
2 months later
#212 3 months ago

I posted some pics in the Poor man's stadium lighting thread - but thought I'd post some here.
the lighting makes a huge improvement - can play the game with the overhead lights off now -and
it's great

IMG_1729 (resized).JPGIMG_1730 (resized).JPGIMG_1731 (resized).JPGIMG_1732 (resized).JPG
#213 3 months ago

Sorry ... looks horrible. Rainbow puke ... much much tooo blue ...
But to be honest, I do not like LED in any gemae expect the designers used LED. A bulb is a bulb is a bulb ... nothing reaches original !
Very nice machine but LEDs = no go !
Better take the money for a new DMD, it looks bad.

#214 3 months ago
Quoted from TomDK:

Sorry ... looks horrible. Rainbow puke ... much much tooo blue ...
But to be honest, I do not like LED in any gemae expect the designers used LED. A bulb is a bulb is a bulb ... nothing reaches original !
Very nice machine but LEDs = no go !
Better take the money for a new DMD, it looks bad.

Phone cameras oversaturate LEDs in pictures, so it wouldn’t look this pronounced in person.

Designers didn’t use LEDs in the 90s because they didn’t exist. *NO* modern pinball company uses incandescent lighting - they all use LEDs.

I think the LEDs look great on this game and the stadium lighting really brightens it up - good job! Ignore the silly comments.

#215 3 months ago

Yes. My phone way over saturates the LED (blue). Not like this at all in person. LEDs were put in to lessen the load
On electrical (inherent possible problem I read on MC). Pics were just meant to show darkness vs light with ww stadium lighting. I really like being able to play and see with my overhead lights off.

1 week later
#216 81 days ago

Hello i have a proto MC i geth it years ago from England its a very nice one playfield perfect cabinet only a little wear on the flipper buttons i have put a image for the targets for the enthusiasts

DSC01262 (resized).jpgDSC01267 (resized).JPGDSC01276 (resized).JPGTarget.pdf
2 weeks later
#217 60 days ago
Quoted from scaryflippers:

Hello i have a proto MC i geth it years ago from England its a very nice one playfield perfect cabinet only a little wear on the flipper buttons i have put a image for the targets for the enthusiasts
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I have this same pair! Love those two games.

On a side note and question for the group, has anyone safely adjusted their ballroom lane return to upper flipper? I notice mine doesn't return to the upper flipper as squarely as it should, and tends to deliver the ball on the lower end of the flipper making it hard to connect for a shot back up the ballroom or tower lane. It would make sense to bend the metal guide a little, but I don't want to ruin something.

#218 60 days ago

Hey - I have that Pair of games too! I'll have to check my ball return on those ballroom/tower shots
My problem is that my main flippers are too damn strong (even on lowest setting) and the ball really flys around
the PF...

#219 56 days ago

I sent all of my boards out to Clive for a full refreshing and they're finally back. It's great to have this game up and running again. Everything plays perfectly PF and scoring wise, and the first night my backbox GI lighting was bright and solid. The next day, I noticed the lighting up there was back to being dim, and later that night it went out altogether where it now sits at a very dim state. It appears to come back on and off, go bright and dim, whenever I give a tap on the cabinet head. The lights and flashers for the angry moon, "of doom" and castle doors work perfectly.

Since Clive got the boards to 100%, and some sort of movement/vibration gets it to react, is it safe to say a connector issue? Is there a specific one to re-pin? I looked long and hard, and couldn't really find any burnt up.

#220 54 days ago

In my opinion the boards are not that big problem. Expect powerboard all boards are available. The harder part is to get hardware like coils, coilstop, plunger. Coils are available.

#221 54 days ago
Quoted from TomDK:

In my opinion the boards are not that big problem. Expect powerboard all boards are available. The harder part is to get hardware like coils, coilstop, plunger. Coils are available.

Hey Tom - you once mentioned a GI pin you had to replace for your backbox GI lighting issues. Can you remind me which pin that is or which connector? I looked all over and nothing stood out to me.

Do all Alvin G titles have this sort of issue? I believe I seen others mention once or twice that it's a common thing.

#222 53 days ago

It was the pin for the GI in the backbox !
My pins are in a pinball club location right now so I can not check.
But it was on the right hand side the pins more to the middle of the board.

I have my Alvin´s around 10 years or more right now. From GI this was the onliest problem on one machine so far ! A NIB GoT LE made me more trouble in 6 weeks than all Alvin G.´s in 10 years

Power supplys seems to be weak for many people, mine are working finde.

#223 53 days ago
Quoted from TomDK:

It was the pin for the GI in the backbox !

Thanks again, Tom. I looked in the manual and couldn't locate the connector or pin you're referencing, and so I'll just keep digging, reset every connector again and inspect each one again.

#224 53 days ago

If the backbox GI get dark and it smells burned ... you are in the club. Meanwhile enjoy the game !!

After playing an hour you might check the plugs with the hand if warm or hot. With the years the connection becomes poor so the electric power can not flow and is swapped in heat ... bad to tell in english

#225 48 days ago

Thanks again for the words of advice. I do believe it is a connector and now have the parts to replace the suspected ones, one at a time, to see if that helps matters.

On another note, and I know this is a tall ask, but does anyone have a spare set of plastics, or a really good scan to use for the making of repro sets? I've got a reputable and known resource on stand-by to make them, just need the assets. I'm actually considering having my PF touched up and clear-coated some day soon, and if this isn't done by then, might just mail my set in for the production of these. I'd love to bang around on my game or take it to shows with repros and have the originals safely tucked away for preservation.

Lastly, check out these cool coin door inserts I printed. I've got a few others like a skull, a crown, or a skull wearing a crown, but the spring darkens the lower portion of the insert and so this design looked the best.

IMG_0548 (resized).jpg
IMG_0562 (resized).jpg

3 weeks later
#226 25 days ago

Question for the group... are Mystery Castles (or Alvin G games in general) subject to cabinet fading like say Williams games (BSD, IJ, FT, etc)? I know some game types are more than others, i.e., when I owned Gottlieb System 80's (Black Hole, Haunted House) I didn't have to worry about that so much since it was stenciled art.

My MC is in a room with windows, it doesn't get blasting sun rays on it, but a slight reflection or glow onto it, and want to be safe.

#227 25 days ago
Quoted from davebart5:

Question for the group... are Mystery Castles (or Alvin G games in general) subject to cabinet fading like say Williams games (BSD, IJ, FT, etc)? I know some game types are more than others, i.e., when I owned Gottlieb System 80's (Black Hole, Haunted House) I didn't have to worry about that so much since it was stenciled art.
My MC is in a room with windows, it doesn't get blasting sun rays on it, but a slight reflection or glow onto it, and want to be safe.

I can't say on mystery, but I have seen several al's and the red tends to fade as well as the neon yellow/orange on the pf/plastics.

#228 22 days ago
Quoted from dung:

I can't say on mystery, but I have seen several al's and the red tends to fade as well as the neon yellow/orange on the pf/plastics.

Thanks man. I'm going to play it safe and continue to make sure no direct sun is hitting the games, like I usually do, and keep an eye on those colors mentioned.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 279.95
$ 399.95
$ 279.95
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 279.95
There are 228 posts in this topic. You are on page 5 of 5.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside