(Topic ID: 98004)

myPinballs New System 80B CPU Board

By applejuice

9 years ago


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  • 106 posts
  • 30 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 39 days ago by applejuice
  • Topic is favorited by 22 Pinsiders

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    #3 9 years ago

    Definitely go to a ribbon cable connector for driver connection. Those double sided edge connectors are getting pretty scarce as are replacement contacts. With proper pin out, can work with driver board from Ni-wumph.

    Wouldn't take much in added parts to make this work with 80 and 80A's. Main difference is to replace the the 80/80A 7448 with a CPLD that can toggle between 7-segment decoder and 80B display driver. Then go through buffer (as it appears to on your board).

    And, you really do need some sort of 40 pin interconnect for diagnostics. We all know how reliable them 6532's are - especially as the stock of residual ones dries up. If you can, break the three IRQ's apart and tie them into 3-input AND gate to facilitate narrowing down which 6532 in the weeds. That shared IRQ is one of the hardest things about testing these boards.

    With right choice of parts, can use the still manufactured Western Design Center 65SC02 and with a bit of talking, maybe talk them into making 65SC32's (I tried...and failed).

    And... is this going through the Gottlieb lawyer if being sold in US?

    1 week later
    #11 9 years ago

    Good to see 40 pin header to replace that tough to find double sided interconnect.

    Seriously consider separating the three IRQ lines. You are using -OLD- 6532's and the shared IRQ makes it much more difficult to locate the offending part.

    Also consider a few more debug issues --
    1 - a jumper or switch setting to completely disable on board ROMs
    2 - a 40 pin connector to match original TC1 would be nice (either DIP or header) to allow test connection (and related to Ken's question).

    May also sell these to 80 and 80A people if you were to add selectable display drivers. Very easy to do with a simple PLD.

    #19 9 years ago

    Do not gold plate the edge connectors!

    #26 9 years ago
    Quoted from thedefog:

    Just curious as to why this would be bad. I thought gold was just about identical in conductivity. Does it alter the resistance enough to make a difference? Hoping to learn something new.

    As Chris said -- don't use dissimilar metals on connectors.

    https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/Information.asp?region=140

    From an old Intel study: "Studies show that fretting occurs when tin comes in pressure contact with gold or any other metal. Tin debris will transfer to the gold surface and oxidize. Continued transfer will build up an oxide film layer. Mixing gold and tin leads doesn't always cause an immediate problem, the problem usually occurs over time."

    If OP uses gold plated edge connector fingers on the new board then the end user would need to either convert to gold plated contacts or be stuck with cleaning the oxide off the edge connectors.
    Can avoid oxidation by using gold plated contacts but switching from tin plated to gold plated contacts is VERY expensive. For the single sided edge connectors, tin plated contacts cost roughly $0.10 each and the gold plated are about $0.80 each...about 70 contacts so it would run about $50 to repin single sided edge connectors. Then you have the double sided Molex edge connectors -- gold plated ones are now unobtainable (tin plated are almost unobtainable).

    Ed

    #28 9 years ago

    We use ENIG on all our boards, it's very good to use when you have fine pitch BGA's. Not needed on this board.

    You also don't want this gold plating finish on the Gottlieb edge connector - this would be asking for trouble in the future. Might check with your board maker to see which type of tin finish they have available to meet RoHS and still not oxidize with age.

    1 month later
    #50 9 years ago

    What are you doing about game ROM's?

    1 year later
    #74 8 years ago

    Didn't notice until now. There appears to be a header to replace the TC1 connector. If so, did you remember to 'swap sides' on the pins so that it would work with any DIP adapter cable? Or with a standard ribbon cable where the DIP connection was presumed?

    Pinouts, for example --
    DIP:
    Pin 1 Pin 40
    Pin 2 Pin 39
    .... etc

    Header:
    Pin 1 Pin 2
    Pin 3 Pin 4
    .... etc

    In converting from a dIP to a header, people often just tie pin 1 of header to signal that was pin 1 of DIP (DB7 for this board), pin 2 of header to signal that was pin 40 of DIP (AB4 for this board), etc. BUT - using an adapter (simple ribbon cable) does not follow conventional pin out and the left and right sides must be swapped. The result would be what was pin 1 of DIP (DB7) would be tied to pin 40 of DIP on the opposite end.

    Put through a ribbon cable DIP to header adapter without swapping:
    DIP pin 1 would connect to opposite end header pin 2.
    DIP pin 40 would connect to opposite end header pin 1.
    DIP pin 2 would connect to opposite end header pin 4.
    DIP pin 39 would connect to opposite end header pin 2.
    ... etc

    So pin 1 of header must be what was pin 40 of DIP (AB4) and pin 2 of header must be what was pin 1 of DIP (DB7).

    Lets say somebody used the TC1 connector with a cable that has a DIP plug on one end and 40 pin header (or DIP plug) on the other. If you then change this TC1 from a DIP connector to a header connector and that same person then tried to use this TC1 connector with a simple ribbon cable - it won't work The left and right sides would be reversed - you would be putting 5VDC down their reset line and vice-versa.

    5 years later
    #88 2 years ago

    Just so people can see what you really have for testing purposes -- is your test header pinned as shown below?
    And please fill in the blanks in the right side table:

    Fill_In_Blank (resized).jpgFill_In_Blank (resized).jpg

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