Leeds
Quoted from G-P-E:What are you doing about game ROM's?
The board uses your original roms, or you can buy a fresh set from the copyright owners to use.
(Topic ID: 98004)
New Kensington, PA
I'm not sure if this was asked before, do you sell just the board and parts?
I'd love to solder one up on my own.
Or even just the bare board, with a parts list?
Quoted from Whysnow:great.
As an owner and lover of both TX and Robowar I will be buying 1
Same goes for me!
Quoted from Elevatorman:Same goes for me!
our tastes in pinball are so similar it is kind of creepy!!!
Quoted from PghPinballRescue:I'm not sure if this was asked before, do you sell just the board and parts?
I'd love to solder one up on my own.
Or even just the bare board, with a parts list?
Yes you can buy a full kit or just the bare board if you'd like. I have a BOM (Bill of Materials) that i can supply. Contact me directly with your email address.
Quoted from applejuice:Back from the UK Pinball Party (this weekend just gone) and now assembling boards. This one is destined for The Goonies Pinball Project.
Also helping out with adjusting the text on the game. Homebrew pinball at its finest
rev3 cpu assembly.jpg 187 KB
Thanks so much for the little extra love on this. The custom text for the display will be the icing on the cake for my project.
Zeist
Just a quick update for people wanting the blank board to assemble themselves. A little autumn/winter project maybe. I have a full Bill of Materials with all part numbers for element 14/farnells. I am also happy to guide you through how best to assemble them.
The cost here would be £60 plus £7.50 shipping standard or £15 shipping tracked to USA. I can work out a US dollar price to if that works better for anyone. (I am in the uk ) Payment is via paypal.
Thanks
Buy with confidence from Jim. Shipping actually does not take long to the US.
Great work again Jim.
--Scott
Quoted from mikeatsparkys:Thanks so much for the little extra love on this. The custom text for the display will be the icing on the cake for my project.
Quoted from applejuice:IMG_2977.JPG 157 KB
That's a beautiful thing right there. Thanks!
Quoted from Chitownpinball:This is BADASS! Nicely done! Now to look for a Gold Wings....
Gold Wings is fine choice! I love mine, which is what started this whole project!
1 week later
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3 months later
Didn't notice until now. There appears to be a header to replace the TC1 connector. If so, did you remember to 'swap sides' on the pins so that it would work with any DIP adapter cable? Or with a standard ribbon cable where the DIP connection was presumed?
Pinouts, for example --
DIP:
Pin 1 Pin 40
Pin 2 Pin 39
.... etc
Header:
Pin 1 Pin 2
Pin 3 Pin 4
.... etc
In converting from a dIP to a header, people often just tie pin 1 of header to signal that was pin 1 of DIP (DB7 for this board), pin 2 of header to signal that was pin 40 of DIP (AB4 for this board), etc. BUT - using an adapter (simple ribbon cable) does not follow conventional pin out and the left and right sides must be swapped. The result would be what was pin 1 of DIP (DB7) would be tied to pin 40 of DIP on the opposite end.
Put through a ribbon cable DIP to header adapter without swapping:
DIP pin 1 would connect to opposite end header pin 2.
DIP pin 40 would connect to opposite end header pin 1.
DIP pin 2 would connect to opposite end header pin 4.
DIP pin 39 would connect to opposite end header pin 2.
... etc
So pin 1 of header must be what was pin 40 of DIP (AB4) and pin 2 of header must be what was pin 1 of DIP (DB7).
Lets say somebody used the TC1 connector with a cable that has a DIP plug on one end and 40 pin header (or DIP plug) on the other. If you then change this TC1 from a DIP connector to a header connector and that same person then tried to use this TC1 connector with a simple ribbon cable - it won't work The left and right sides would be reversed - you would be putting 5VDC down their reset line and vice-versa.
2 weeks later
Quoted from G-P-E:Didn't notice until now. There appears to be a header to replace the TC1 connector. If so, did you remember to 'swap sides' on the pins so that it would work with any DIP adapter cable? Or with a standard ribbon cable where the DIP connection was presumed?
Pinouts, for example --
DIP:
Pin 1 Pin 40
Pin 2 Pin 39
.... etc
Header:
Pin 1 Pin 2
Pin 3 Pin 4
.... etc
In converting from a dIP to a header, people often just tie pin 1 of header to signal that was pin 1 of DIP (DB7 for this board), pin 2 of header to signal that was pin 40 of DIP (AB4 for this board), etc. BUT - using an adapter (simple ribbon cable) does not follow conventional pin out and the left and right sides must be swapped. The result would be what was pin 1 of DIP (DB7) would be tied to pin 40 of DIP on the opposite end.
Put through a ribbon cable DIP to header adapter without swapping:
DIP pin 1 would connect to opposite end header pin 2.
DIP pin 40 would connect to opposite end header pin 1.
DIP pin 2 would connect to opposite end header pin 4.
DIP pin 39 would connect to opposite end header pin 2.
... etc
So pin 1 of header must be what was pin 40 of DIP (AB4) and pin 2 of header must be what was pin 1 of DIP (DB7).
Lets say somebody used the TC1 connector with a cable that has a DIP plug on one end and 40 pin header (or DIP plug) on the other. If you then change this TC1 from a DIP connector to a header connector and that same person then tried to use this TC1 connector with a simple ribbon cable - it won't work The left and right sides would be reversed - you would be putting 5VDC down their reset line and vice-versa.
I do include a header output on the board labelled 'Debug/Mod Header' which is an optional install. The premise for this is to add an option for future add ons or test cards that i may, or other people may build in the future. It is not meant as a direct replacement for the old TC1 header, but does include all the useful address, data and control signals you may need for such mods etc.
Currently most orders are not populated with this header as people mostly just want a plug and play replacement for their dead original. Fixing of my stock boards is also a much easier job these days with the more advanced test roms available, the leon test led pre installed and the use of full sockets, so the old TC1 header isn't really needed. I have had a few boards back to repair after users have shorted voltages to the switch matrix etc. These have all been easily fixed and returned to continue their lives keeping old gottliebs running
3 years later
Saskatoon, SK
Quoted from toasterman04:looking for a new System 80B MPU board. Are you still selling these?
Hi, thanks for the message. Yes i am still making these. There are now 160 boards out in the wild. The current order status is I have 5 orders paid for and waiting and about 6 or so on the wait list.
I stopped taking orders upfront for awhile whilst i catch up with them, I got tired of people complaining about the wait times. Making these boards is not a simple task and some people seem to think they are dealing with a company the size of amazon, they aren't. I am a small business
So you can be added to the wait list if you want and when i have more stock i'll contact you with an invoice and shipping etc. just like i do with many of my other products.
2 weeks later
Hi, I would like to get on the list for your System 80B CPU. I can pre-pay through paypal.
PM sent
Thanks
Gary
2 weeks later
7 months later
Quoted from Luzur:Is this still going? Heaps of Sys80b bros in Europe that need this
Yes. I’ve bought 2 over the last couple months. I’ve been extremely happy with them.
1 year later
Hi I am looking for a schematic to this board as the IC numbers don't line up with original Sys80b CPU. Is there one available? The website link doesn't lead anywhere.
I managed to short solenoid voltage to the switch matrix and now have a row of switches that are non responsive. I found a 7404 that was bad but am still not getting a response after replacing it. Trying to figure out what IC is responsible for the switch strobes. I already tested all the 6532s and they report good.
Quoted from frisbez:Hi I am looking for a schematic to this board as the IC numbers don't line up with original Sys80b CPU. Is there one available? The website link doesn't lead anywhere.
I managed to short solenoid voltage to the switch matrix and now have a row of switches that are non responsive. I found a 7404 that was bad but am still not getting a response after replacing it. Trying to figure out what IC is responsible for the switch strobes. I already tested all the 6532s and they report good.
I dont give out schematics for my boards but I offer lifetime support for owners via email for help and advice or repair services for any board
All you need to do is email me or send me a pm quoting your serial number and the problem
Quoted from applejuice:I dont give out schematics for my boards but I offer lifetime support for owners via email for help and advice or repair services for any board
All you need to do is email me or send me a pm quoting your serial number and the problem
I'm glad you offer lifetime support, but would still appreciate some schematics.
I've had two come through for repair. I got lucky and was able to repair them.
While I have you, here are a few comments on the board.
1. I'd avoid machine pin sockets.
2. If you have to respin the board, please include the normal 40-pin TC1 socket. Without that socket, neither the GPE QS80 or Marco's ROM w/PiniTech adapter can be used.
3. Do you provide any documentation such a how to use the "Leon Test ROM" feature? I noticed there is an LED on the board.
4. It would have been nice if the ICs were numbered the same as the OEM board. Alternatively, a cross reference would work too.
Regards.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
So my posting here was an attempt to get support. I can take that to PM but I don't see how that's any different than posting publicly and this way if other people have a similar issue they might see a response that is helpful.
I shorted solenoid voltage into the switch matrix. The scoring switch for a kicking target on my Excalibur got caught in the spring. I replaced a 7400 at IC14 that tested bad. In switch test I no longer show the whole row as closed, but they are not registering. I tested all 3 6532s in my Neoloch and all test good.
The problem might not be on the board, I'm not super familiar with the sys80b architecture and what else I might have blasted. Are there other ICs in that circuit that might have gotten toasted?
The board is a V1.03. I don't see the serial, unless it's on the backside.
IMG_20211104_212746768 (resized).jpgQuoted from frisbez:So my posting here was an attempt to get support. I can take that to PM but I don't see how that's any different than posting publicly and this way if other people have a similar issue they might see a response that is helpful.
I shorted solenoid voltage into the switch matrix. The scoring switch for a kicking target on my Excalibur got caught in the spring. I replaced a 7400 at IC14 that tested bad. In switch test I no longer show the whole row as closed, but they are not registering. I tested all 3 6532s in my Neoloch and all test good.
The problem might not be on the board, I'm not super familiar with the sys80b architecture and what else I might have blasted. Are there other ICs in that circuit that might have gotten toasted?
The board is a V1.03. I don't see the serial, unless it's on the backside.
[quoted image]
All i was meaning was if you want a quicker reply then its best to contact me via my site, facebook page (@mypinballs) or email as this thread isnt something i check very often. I've been making these boards for along time now (over 7 years) so the serial (which yes is on the rear of the board) helps me identify what board you have so i can see how old it is, who originally bought it and the parts used.
From your message above i would check the other switch matrix parts like the column driver next. The info for this area is:
IC14 & IC15 - 74HCT00 - Switch Row Buffers (sacrificial)
IC37 - 74HCT240 - Switch Column Strobe Driver
IC9 - Switch Matrix RIOT IC
Also you MUST replace with the exact spec ic above or i can sell you a service kit. The timings on the board are important so don't put a 7400 in etc.
Hope that helps. And remember its always best to make playfield adjustments with the game switched off on games where there is no hv disable, or remove the coil fuse pn the transformer panel
Quoted from ChrisHibler:I'm glad you offer lifetime support, but would still appreciate some schematics.
I've had two come through for repair. I got lucky and was able to repair them.
While I have you, here are a few comments on the board.
1. I'd avoid machine pin sockets.
2. If you have to respin the board, please include the normal 40-pin TC1 socket. Without that socket, neither the GPE QS80 or Marco's ROM w/PiniTech adapter can be used.
3. Do you provide any documentation such a how to use the "Leon Test ROM" feature? I noticed there is an LED on the board.
4. It would have been nice if the ICs were numbered the same as the OEM board. Alternatively, a cross reference would work too.
Regards.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
You dont need a TC1 socket or test adapter with our board. (Though i do have an expansion socket which shares the same pinout as the tc1 socket). You can use test roms directly in IC8. That is what the leon led is for. You plug the leon test rom into IC8 and it will check the CPU, Ram, RIOTS with flashes act that led then pulse all the I/O pins. Leons test was the original rom to do this and i think iirc other test roms are based on his work. I know i've talked with marco in the past regarding the tests.
We use the leon test rom to check each board when assembled before testing it in our own gold wings game.
Quoted from applejuice:I dont give out schematics for my boards but I offer lifetime support for owners via email for help and advice or repair services for any board
Not to be offensive (I'm blunt, its my nature) people drop dead all the time.
As a single proprietor business with a fair amount of one off stuff I fabricated, I made sure that my wife has a folder to be released in the event I should have an unforeseen medical issue (I'M DEAD) as a final thank you to customers. Just saying.
Lifetime support to customers only has value if you are still among the living.
See the Ken Layton thread.
Quoted from applejuice:You don't need a TC1 socket or test adapter with our board.
With respect, I beg to differ.
I use the Great Plains Electronics QuickScan 80 as my preferred diagnostic tool. Next is Marco's test ROM in a PiniTech test fixture. Both connect to the normal 40-pin socket at TC1. For your boards, I'd need an adapter module, which I don't relish building.
Again, I'm glad your boards are available. I'm happy to support repair of them, which increases their value to your customers. The more you can do to help those of us that repair them, the better your business will be. Alternatively, if you don't help us support your product, the opposite will occur.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
Quoted from ChrisHibler:With respect, I beg to differ.
I use the Great Plains Electronics QuickScan 80 as my preferred diagnostic tool. Next is Marco's test ROM in a PiniTech test fixture. Both connect to the normal 40-pin socket at TC1. For your boards, I'd need an adapter module, which I don't relish building.
Again, I'm glad your boards are available. I'm happy to support repair of them, which increases their value to your customers. The more you can do to help those of us that repair them, the better your business will be. Alternatively, if you don't help us support your product, the opposite will occur.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
Likewise. I repair around 25 - 40 Sys80 MPU boards per year for Canadians mostly and the Quickscan 80 is my go to plug and play test tool.
Without provisions to use it and product specific schematics of course, it severely limits the customer's range of service options without the need for expensive out-of-country 2 way shipping.
Brent
Quoted from applejuice:All i was meaning was if you want a quicker reply then its best to contact me via my site, facebook page (@mypinballs) or email as this thread isnt something i check very often. I've been making these boards for along time now (over 7 years) so the serial (which yes is on the rear of the board) helps me identify what board you have so i can see how old it is, who originally bought it and the parts used.
From your message above i would check the other switch matrix parts like the column driver next. The info for this area is:
IC14 & IC15 - 74HCT00 - Switch Row Buffers (sacrificial)
IC37 - 74HCT240 - Switch Column Strobe Driver
IC9 - Switch Matrix RIOT IC
Also you MUST replace with the exact spec ic above or i can sell you a service kit. The timings on the board are important so don't put a 7400 in etc.
Hope that helps. And remember its always best to make playfield adjustments with the game switched off on games where there is no hv disable, or remove the coil fuse pn the transformer panel
This is good info thanks. IC37 tested ok. I had replaced IC14 with a 74LS00 so I will have to pick up an HCT and maybe that will take care of things.
Quoted from ChrisHibler:With respect, I beg to differ.
I use the Great Plains Electronics QuickScan 80 as my preferred diagnostic tool. Next is Marco's test ROM in a PiniTech test fixture. Both connect to the normal 40-pin socket at TC1. For your boards, I'd need an adapter module, which I don't relish building.
Again, I'm glad your boards are available. I'm happy to support repair of them, which increases their value to your customers. The more you can do to help those of us that repair them, the better your business will be. Alternatively, if you don't help us support your product, the opposite will occur.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
What i said above was that when i originally designed the board (around 7-8 years ago) i included the test led into the board so that anyone could plug diagnostic roms into the 1st rom socket without the need for an adapter. If you know, Leon Borre was the guy who created the 'bally style' test roms for 80 and 80b games and that test rom you can use on my board directly. Marcos test rom was based on this and i talked with him/helped him a few times when he was making his improved version of it. I am sure that a 2764 version of that could be made for my board if it currently uses a 2732 etc. The led on the pinitech board is the leon test led on my board afaik.
This is why i didn't include the original TC1 socket anymore but rather a more std 40 pin double ribbon header for test and future expansion possibilities. I also did the same on the driver connector and included the std nuwumpf driver board header. You have to understand that 7 or 8 years ago to there were alot less repair tools around afair.
However, having said all that i am happy to receive feedback and work on improvements that benefit everyone, so if the TC1 socket has become more of a generic std now then i can add it back in the future or make some simple adapter boards that connect to the expansion socket. Or i am happy to document this connector so that others can adapt their test boards to use it perhaps. I will also work on improving the documentation as there are now over 200 boards out in circulation, something that i am very proud of and have worked extremely hard to acheive. I will include more details on the ics and what 'common' problems are and what to swap etc I've only had a hand full of questions really over the 7 years and most of them were because off a user voltage short to the switch matrix like the qu above.
I am currently in the final stages of getting 30 more boards assembled and sourcing the parts for these so any changes made would be after these are sold.
Also again to re-iterate anyone can contact me if they want help or advice on a board they own, or are repairing.
Quoted from G-P-E:Just so people can see what you really have for testing purposes -- is your test header pinned as shown below?
And please fill in the blanks in the right side table:[quoted image]
Thanks, yes i will do better with documentation and report back on the expansion header pinout. I think i just copied the layout for the tc1 header but i will check. Maybe its something you could add to your diagnostic tools. The header is a std 2x40 pin 0.1" ribbon style header.
A bit off-topic: my testrom was written from scratch and based on Leon's idea, not on Leon's code. I started coding it in 2011 after talking with Leon if he was okay with that before he passed away. It was Applejuice his publication about this system80B remake which decided me to join Pinside and sharing my testroms which I was already using for some years. My posts earlier in this thread were my very first posts on pinside.
You don't need the TC1 connector to run my testrom on this board (and also original system80B boards with a piggyback). I provide 2764 binaries which you can directly run from the PROM1 (2764 gamerom/Eprom) socket. For indication of the testresults you will need to connect an additional LED to addressline 6. I don't know if this LED is installed by default on Applejuice his system80B remakes.
This is how I use my testrom when repairing all system80 boards; i made a piggyback to be installed at U3 (80, 80A) or PROM1 (80B). From this piggyback I can run the testcode in a 2764 Eprom. It also has an LED installed indicating the testresults. It actually is the same thing Gottlieb made for their system80B boards only with an additional LED connected to a6.
Quoted from MarAlb:You don't need the TC1 connector to run my testrom on this board (and also original system80B boards with a piggyback). I provide 2764 binaries which you can directly run from the PROM1 (2764 gamerom/Eprom) socket. For indication of the testresults you will need to connect an additional LED to addressline 6. I don't know if this LED is installed by default on Applejuice his system80B remakes.
Yes the Led marked as LEON TEST is the A6 test led as i was mentioning above. Its already included as standard on my board since day 1.
Its good to hear from you again. Your test rom is great and thanks for clarifying it is already available as a 2764 size, i could not remember properly . There are many great talented pinheads in the Netherlands!
So anyone can plug the marco or leon test rom into rom socket 1 (2764) on my board and help diagnose faults easily. No extra adapters needed
MarAlb ,
applejuice ,
Thanks for taking the time to add the information above. The pinball community and I certainly appreciate it.
I did the comparison and the TC1 connector layout is signal identical to the myPinballs dual .100 connector layout.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ChrisHiblerPinball.com/Contact ... for board repairs
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info
3 months later
need help understanding how to change settings on these boards. Here is a pic of the instructions from MyPinballs and the Gottlieb manual. I want to change the following:
Maximum credits to 20 (does this board have freeplay?)
switch 22 from GOTT manual to OFF
switch 25 from GOTT manual to ON
switch 28 from GOTT manual to ON
switch 29 from GOTT manual to OFF
switch 31 from GOTT manual to OFF
switch 32 from GOTT manual to ON
I see there is an appendix for the layout of the dip switches, but they make no sense to me.
thanks!
Quoted from chuckwurt:need help understanding how to change settings on these boards. Here is a pic of the instructions from MyPinballs and the Gottlieb manual. I want to change the following:
Maximum credits to 20 (does this board have freeplay?)
switch 22 from GOTT manual to OFF
switch 25 from GOTT manual to ON
switch 28 from GOTT manual to ON
switch 29 from GOTT manual to OFF
switch 31 from GOTT manual to OFF
switch 32 from GOTT manual to ON
I see there is an appendix for the layout of the dip switches, but they make no sense to me.
thanks!
Game changes can be made easily using the included 8 bank dip switch which is switches 25-32 top to bottom just line on the original boards
Std boards used to ship with switches 7 & 23 soldered in to give attract sounds, high scores on and 2 replays for high score
You need free play roms for free play, games did not have this function originally and is why the boards shipped as max credits 8 (switch 15&16 off, not installed) as it seemed pointless defaulting it to 20.
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