(Topic ID: 154682)

Mylar Removal on Bally Lost World

By GPS

8 years ago


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  • 26 posts
  • 11 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by mjthompson
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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#1 8 years ago

Hi Guys

I have recently acquired a Bally Lost World and the Mylar is bubbling don't has to go. The beauty of this game is the artwork and I would like to save the game if possible but that means the Mylar must go

Read some older posts where TJ freeze method is discussed as well as heat. Wondering what the consensus would be regarding this game.

While I do not have a great deal invested in the game, I would like to bring it back and thus learn the process.

Thanks guys for your input

G

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#2 8 years ago

Mylar removal is risky on older games. May lose a lot of paint in the process.

#4 8 years ago

I have gone tonyiutube and it appears as though I would be most comfortable having never done this before using the heat method. The freeze method looks too risky for me given my lack of aptitude in the subject as well as I have a heat gun that I can easily put my hands on.

Any thoughts pro or con?

G

#5 8 years ago

Ok. Started with the heat and so far so good. Never done this before. So far paint loss is minimal if any. Got to remember to take my time. May not be a great game but it is very attractive to look at. That backglass is great!!

#6 8 years ago

ive found freeze method to be considerable less risky when it comes to artwork loss.best of luck.go slo with heat method too much heat and art will lift,not enough heat and you will lift artwork.balance is the key to success.

#7 8 years ago

Thanks hot tubr Guess that each method has its potential issues. Just read a post about someone who was using the freeze method who ended up taking off a chunk of his artwork. Just going to proceed slowly and keep my fingers crossed

G

#8 8 years ago

Update. What I am finding is that there is aftermarket Mylar on top of factory installed Mylar or whatever was used. The top layer is coming off easy enough but the bottom layer is far thinner and coming off in little pieces. Just wondering if freezing would be more appropriate here.

Your thoughts

#9 8 years ago

Coming of in little pieces as in how little? And how sticky? Pictures would help.

#10 8 years ago

Hi lb1

The original Mylar is coming off in pieces about the size of ones thumbnail. Again much thinner than the second layer which is much thicker and thus easier to work with Blues the big question is this; given the game is it worth it?

Thanks all

G

#11 8 years ago

I use the freeze method and it works great. I have even done a gottlieb system 3 with it and worked great. The main thing is the playfield being in good shape under the mylar. I have also done a Cyclone Earthshaker and Police Force with freeze and had good success. But again there is always risk either way.

#12 8 years ago

Only peel off what is interfering with the gameplay.

Don't take unnecessary risks.

#13 8 years ago

Thanks all. Realize that this machine is not going to be my retirement nest egg. Ha ha. Retirement. Yeah. Right. As I remove the Mylar I find that I occasionally will chip off a piece of the paint underneath. Oh well. I will work at touching up the playfield after it is all clean and goo free. Treating this as a learning machine. I have lots to learn and feel this is a good way to learn some of the techniques that I have found here and elsewhere. Guess ibwoukdnlike to prove to myself I can bring this particular machine back from the dead to be a decent player. Time will tell

#14 8 years ago

I never heard of anything like this. Probably some thin low quality early mylar that's all dried up and brittle. Good luck.

#15 8 years ago

All dried up and brittle pretty much sums it up.

#16 8 years ago

Any suggestions out there for a device (rag or scotch brute or something) to use in addition to the alcohol and flour method of getting the goo off the playfield. I would like to be able to save my fingertips

Thank you

#17 8 years ago

I used 91% alcohol, lot of paper towels (preferably the blue shop kind), and an old credit card to gently scrape the glue. I would absolutely stay away from the flour. Flour gets in holes and it is a pain to clean up.

#18 8 years ago

Goo gone or naphtha. You might have better luck with naphtha.

#19 8 years ago

I pulled it using freeze spray on my lost world. I've done it both ways for classic Bally's. I don't feel one way is better than the other. If you take your time, you can keep the paint loss to a minimum.
However, we go back and color match and paint brush for touch ups. Usually mylar over the top.

#20 8 years ago

909 Heavy Duty Orange Power Plus

This stuff cuts mylar residue like crazy. It's like goo gone x 1000.

Gotta be careful though. It's powerful stuff and works great. Goo gone will kill your elbows!

#21 8 years ago
Quoted from GPS:

Any suggestions out there for a device (rag or scotch brute or something) to use in addition to the alcohol and flour method of getting the goo off the playfield. I would like to be able to save my fingertips
Thank you

Remove Mylar.

Pack the flour down hard into the adhesive. Really pack it in.

Lightly moisten the flour with 94% isoproypl.

Let alcohol evaporate 90%.

Start at the edge and roll the adhesive into little logs.

Clean up any remaining dots with Naphtha.

#22 8 years ago

Thank you fellas. Always grateful

G

#23 8 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

909 Heavy Duty Orange Power Plus
This stuff cuts mylar residue like crazy. It's like goo gone x 1000.
Gotta be careful though. It's powerful stuff and works great.

It's harder to find since Pinrestore quit carrying it, but turns the glue into jelly in about a minute. They you just scrape it off with a plastic razor blade.

#24 8 years ago

Yep. That's where I got it.

Stuff is amazing

It's super caustic though. It took some varnish off a really nice porttery barn coffee table I was working on.

Good stuff for Mylar glue

1 week later
#25 8 years ago

Just an update. All mylar has since been removed. Boy, lots of fun!! Now to touch up the playfield where this is missing paint and wax the beast. Then onto light sockets and the more mundane stuff. Yeah, it wasn't any fun but pretty straightforward. The heat method worked best for me for whatever it was worth. Did try freeze but with far less success.

G

1 month later
#26 7 years ago
Quoted from Leeb18509:

It's harder to find since Pinrestore quit carrying it, but turns the glue into jelly in about a minute. They you just scrape it off with a plastic razor blade.

I just went to Pinrestore to buy some 909 Heavy Duty Orange Power Plus and found out they no longer carry it Is the stuff I've read so much about a spray can? I see that on other sites.

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