if you want the art gone and have it look like nice new wood. Use goof off.

Flour. Sprinkle, rub, remove. Done. Please leave the chemicals off the now unprotected play field.

Shawn

Goo gone will also do this!

Alcohol and Magic Eraser worked better than anything else I tried, including the flour.

i've never seen it happen in 12 years of doing playfields. In fact, I can't even get goo gone to take off the adhesive. That stuff works for shit. Rubbing alcohol or Orange power works great. orange power is actually the best, but have to be careful on some playfields.

Goof Off is nice and powerful!!!!

Use electronics spray upside down. It will peel right up.

Never Goof Off.

Next - You did not list the game. Anyone giving Mylar removal advice without knowing the game is just throwing out standard crap without proper thought and warning.

how did you find blue ones? those used to be impossible to find.

Be EXTREMELY careful using magic erasers. Namely with the pressure and speed you use. They will quickly eat away through artwork.

I used "orange power" from Pinrestore on a Road Kings playfield a few years ago, after it was recommended by some other pinsiders. It worked great and I have also been using it to clean playfield rubber, standup targets and more.

http://pinrestore.com/Supplies.html

Sorry, I just checked the website and didn't see it there anymore. It may be worth the effort to contact them and ask about it or search for the product somewhere else.

Naptha will take it right off. I use naptha and an old credit card to scrape it up.

https://www.emisupply.com/catalog/imagemagic.php?img=ztDJyNPalMK1r7eispau2sbKzZC%2B2dTR2sbc1J261d%2FG3N%2FC55bY5J6ToY%2FY18w%3D&w=111&h=400&page=popup

As someone said earlier, not all Mylar/games are the same. Some come off easy and some are a nightmare. Just don't rush it. I use freeze spray and then flour and tr-6 which I think is about the same as mineral spirits. I had a blackout that almost nothing would take off the glue and a DE that the glue came off in 5 seconds. There is no "one solution" that works on every game every time.

I like to use goo gone and plastic razor blades for glue, and of course melamine foam and 90% alcohol for cleaning out dirt and swirls.

Just to be clear: this is the one to stay away from.

Unless you are working with a very dry old playfield that has no protective coating left Tuffcoat, lacquer, or clear coat, Goo Gone works well at removing final final glue traces and getting started.
Use it with moderation.
No solvent of any type should be used on playfield that is simply paint on wood, including repairs.
Additionally, if you are scrubbing your playfield like a metal pan with a Brillo pad (including Magic Erasers), you are going to have problems.
Even Magic Erasers are not going to remove deep ball swirls that are ground into the playfield surface.
Let Goo Gone soak and do its work, and then remove it immediately.
Ensure final cleanup with denatured alcohol.
Flour is not always the best option, as it depends on the type and age of the mylar, and how the playfield is coated.
Most people that use the flour option are performing mylar removal on games made from 1991-today.
I still personally do not recommend removal mylar on games older than 1985 based on potential for paint removal due to heat infused mylar on inserts.
Any "lifted" mylar on these type of games along the edges should still be cut away such as areas of pop bumpers.

I tried the flour and alcohol method my 1986 GTB Raven, and did not get the hoped for results. I applied the flour to the glue residue, rubbed it in as much as possible and vacuumed off the excess. Sprayed on the 91% alcohol, let it sit until almost dry and then tried to rub it off without much success. Applying more alcohol and a lot of rubbing is taking the residue off, but slowly.

Should I apply more flour than last time, use more alcohol and not vacuum? Use gluten free? Is this another f#&%@n' GTB grounding issue?

The old dried glue can be a major pain to remove. I had the exact same experience with a 86 HS. Keep on using alcohol, be patient and you should eventually be able to remove it all.

I was also told once to never remove the Mylar unless you are ready to remove the glue. If you let the glue sit uncovered for a while it becomes harder to remove. Not sure if it's true but I always follow this advice. I had a blackout that had some big bubbles under the edges and those areas were much harder to remove than the areas where the Mylar was still stuck.

This is true.
Clean immediately.
It is just like using epoxy for repairs in reverse mindset.