(Topic ID: 171589)

Mylar removal. Goo Gone or Goof Off?


By Riptor

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 26 posts
  • 17 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by xTheBlackKnightx
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    #1 2 years ago

    Which one is the one to stay away from? I have to remove some mylar and need to clean off the adhesive.

    #2 2 years ago

    if you want the art gone and have it look like nice new wood. Use goof off.

    #3 2 years ago

    Flour. Sprinkle, rub, remove. Done. Please leave the chemicals off the now unprotected play field.

    Shawn

    #4 2 years ago
    Quoted from CaptainNeo:

    if you want the art gone and have it look like nice new wood. Use goof off.

    Goo gone will also do this!

    #5 2 years ago

    Alcohol and Magic Eraser worked better than anything else I tried, including the flour.

    #6 2 years ago

    Thanks, I will start with the flour trick and alcohol. If those dont work then I will try goo gone.
    What are you using to heat the mylar prior to pulling? Is a hair dryer sufficient?

    #7 2 years ago
    Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

    Goo gone will also do this!

    i've never seen it happen in 12 years of doing playfields. In fact, I can't even get goo gone to take off the adhesive. That stuff works for shit. Rubbing alcohol or Orange power works great. orange power is actually the best, but have to be careful on some playfields.

    -1
    #8 2 years ago

    Goof Off is nice and powerful!!!!

    #9 2 years ago

    Use electronics spray upside down. It will peel right up.

    #10 2 years ago
    Quoted from Riptor:

    Which one is the one to stay away from? I have to remove some mylar and need to clean off the adhesive.

    Never Goof Off.

    Next - You did not list the game. Anyone giving Mylar removal advice without knowing the game is just throwing out standard crap without proper thought and warning.

    #11 2 years ago

    Its an F-14 tomcat. Im pulling the inserts and replacing them and new insert decals. The original inserts are all raised really bad and faded.

    #12 2 years ago

    how did you find blue ones? those used to be impossible to find.

    #13 2 years ago

    Be EXTREMELY careful using magic erasers. Namely with the pressure and speed you use. They will quickly eat away through artwork.

    #14 2 years ago

    I used "orange power" from Pinrestore on a Road Kings playfield a few years ago, after it was recommended by some other pinsiders. It worked great and I have also been using it to clean playfield rubber, standup targets and more.

    http://pinrestore.com/Supplies.html

    Sorry, I just checked the website and didn't see it there anymore. It may be worth the effort to contact them and ask about it or search for the product somewhere else.

    #15 2 years ago

    Naptha will take it right off. I use naptha and an old credit card to scrape it up.

    #16 2 years ago
    Quoted from CaptainNeo:

    how did you find blue ones? those used to be impossible to find.

    Well, I ordered the set of inserts from planetary pinball. Im still waiting on them so not sure if the set will be exactly like original ones or not.

    I have a really trashed road kings here. I will practice on it before I dive into the F-14.

    #18 2 years ago

    As someone said earlier, not all Mylar/games are the same. Some come off easy and some are a nightmare. Just don't rush it. I use freeze spray and then flour and tr-6 which I think is about the same as mineral spirits. I had a blackout that almost nothing would take off the glue and a DE that the glue came off in 5 seconds. There is no "one solution" that works on every game every time.

    #19 2 years ago

    I like to use goo gone and plastic razor blades for glue, and of course melamine foam and 90% alcohol for cleaning out dirt and swirls.

    #20 2 years ago
    Quoted from CrazyLevi:

    Goof Off is nice and powerful!!!!

    Just to be clear: this is the one to stay away from.

    #21 2 years ago

    Unless you are working with a very dry old playfield that has no protective coating left Tuffcoat, lacquer, or clear coat, Goo Gone works well at removing final final glue traces and getting started.
    Use it with moderation.
    No solvent of any type should be used on playfield that is simply paint on wood, including repairs.
    Additionally, if you are scrubbing your playfield like a metal pan with a Brillo pad (including Magic Erasers), you are going to have problems.
    Even Magic Erasers are not going to remove deep ball swirls that are ground into the playfield surface.
    Let Goo Gone soak and do its work, and then remove it immediately.
    Ensure final cleanup with denatured alcohol.
    Flour is not always the best option, as it depends on the type and age of the mylar, and how the playfield is coated.
    Most people that use the flour option are performing mylar removal on games made from 1991-today.
    I still personally do not recommend removal mylar on games older than 1985 based on potential for paint removal due to heat infused mylar on inserts.
    Any "lifted" mylar on these type of games along the edges should still be cut away such as areas of pop bumpers.

    #22 2 years ago

    Good news. I got all the mylar off with very little effort and zero paint loss. Even all the text on the inserts stayed intact. I used the freeze spray method.
    Next up is to remove all the adhesive. I have an old trashed xenon playfield I will experiment on first.

    #23 2 years ago

    I tried the flour and alcohol method my 1986 GTB Raven, and did not get the hoped for results. I applied the flour to the glue residue, rubbed it in as much as possible and vacuumed off the excess. Sprayed on the 91% alcohol, let it sit until almost dry and then tried to rub it off without much success. Applying more alcohol and a lot of rubbing is taking the residue off, but slowly.

    Should I apply more flour than last time, use more alcohol and not vacuum? Use gluten free? Is this another f#&%@n' GTB grounding issue?

    #24 2 years ago
    Quoted from Alan_L:

    I tried the flour and alcohol method my 1986 GTB Raven, and did not get the hoped for results. I applied the flour to the glue residue, rubbed it in as much as possible and vacuumed off the excess. Sprayed on the 91% alcohol, let it sit until almost dry and then tried to rub it off without much success. Applying more alcohol and a lot of rubbing is taking the residue off, but slowly.
    Should I apply more flour than last time, use more alcohol and not vacuum? Use gluten free? Is this another f#&%@n' GTB grounding issue?

    The old dried glue can be a major pain to remove. I had the exact same experience with a 86 HS. Keep on using alcohol, be patient and you should eventually be able to remove it all.

    #25 2 years ago

    I was also told once to never remove the Mylar unless you are ready to remove the glue. If you let the glue sit uncovered for a while it becomes harder to remove. Not sure if it's true but I always follow this advice. I had a blackout that had some big bubbles under the edges and those areas were much harder to remove than the areas where the Mylar was still stuck.

    #26 2 years ago
    Quoted from Lonzo:

    If you let the glue sit uncovered for a while it becomes harder to remove

    This is true.
    Clean immediately.
    It is just like using epoxy for repairs in reverse mindset.

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