Elvira and the Party Monsters
Bally, 1989any thoughts on removing mylar from a EATPM? The pop bumper area looks pretty beat up. The main large sheet it pulling up by the kick out hole up top. Pull it? Or am i opening a can of worms. I read some are easier than others to pull and factory mylar i said to be the toughest and best left alone. I know the process im just not sure i should attempt it.
I pulled the Mylar on my F-14 and I'm glad I did. F-14 is notoriously difficult to lift the Mylar and clear the glue (which it was), but worth it. I can't imagine EATPM being more difficult. Just read the threads, get at least 3 cans of freeze spray, and go slooooow. Have fun with the adhesive removal!
Yea i already know its going to be a b!tch but im really considering clear coating it. I have axcess to free automotive clear coat by the guy who repairs our trucks at work. He does nice work amd knows quite a bit about the process. I should take advantage since i have the opertunity. Thanks man.
I heard goo gone is the best for the removal process so i think im going to try that route. Its coming up so i have an edge to work with.
If you're not getting it cleared by someone who has done system 11 games before, don't lift the mylar - it's the only reason the paint has survived that long. Even waxed it'll start to wear pretty quickly.
If/when you start to remove the mylar get a heat gun and soften up the glue so it don't tear up the play field planking. Thats what happened to my SOF and it's going to be a PITA to repaint and look good. Thats after I fill the hole up with clear coat to level it...
Quoted from Mudflaps:I recommend Goo Gone gel vs regular Goo Gone. It doesn't run and will absorb better into the adhesive. I didn't use alcohol or naphtha.
Oh, and don't forget the shop towels. You'll need them!
^^^ +1
Mudflaps..., did you have paint come up?
System 11...., ellaborate please. Does the paint underneith require a certain type of clear over the top? The guy thats going to be clearing it does amazing work. He knows a lot about paints and which ones are safe to use an automotive clear over. He's been doing it for a very long time, just cars obviously and our trucks now. I will be removing the mylar and prepping it for him. Do you think im going to lose mad paint?
I recommend using the freeze spray method to remove the mylar off the playfield and for the left over adhesive glue use flour plus isopropyl alcohol. I removed mylar off an I500 playfield earlier this month and sent over to my friend Drano for clear coating. Pics and explanation posted on my local pinball forum here:
Alright guys, i'll keep reading up though i dont think there is much more for me to read, looks like i just have to tackle it and pray. Thanks for all the tips.
System11, i understand what your saying, i intend to clear coat it after removal.
Thanks again
Mwong , i read through your link. I get the same thing from my lady, im ussually up very late, its the only time i find where i can work undisturbed.
Quoted from pinstyle:Mudflaps..., did you have paint come up?
System 11...., ellaborate please. Does the paint underneith require a certain type of clear over the top? The guy thats going to be clearing it does amazing work. He knows a lot about paints and which ones are safe to use an automotive clear over. He's been doing it for a very long time, just cars obviously and our trucks now. I will be removing the mylar and prepping it for him. Do you think im going to lose mad paint?
I think everyone has covered this -- just work slowly and carefully. Personally, I didn't lose any paint, but I also went through about 5 cans of freeze spray. Just when I thought it was good, I blasted again. Listen for that nice crackling sound. Hit the top and underside with plenty of spray.
The bittering agent is a pain. It stayed in my clothes and on my skin for days.
Freeze spray worked great, i didnt lose anything. Glue removal isnt too bad but the glue left on the inserts is a nightmare to remove. Im useing a rag with alcohol and a dry rag behind it. I'll be touching up the paint soon. Its going to look awesome clear coated.
Flour and rubbing alcohol worked well for me to get the glue up.
Do a search web search and you will find several write-ups. But basically you are sprinkling on dry regular baking flour which sticks to the glue covered area, then dip your finger in a small bowl of rubbing alcohol and rub your now wet finger on the flour/glue area. Vacuum up the now glue covered flour, repeat.
The alcohol seems to loosen up the glue and it coats the flour instead of it getting spread all over the place like when I used a rag.
I probably should have used the flour, it would have saved me some time cleaning. Anyways, im not afraid of mylar anymore.
Thanks for the reasurance guys.
I am still trying to figure out if anyone has just put down new Mylar instead of clearcoating after removing the old stuff. My BK has ball swirls under the mylar someone added at a later point. I want to remove it, clean it, and put new stuff back down. Anyone done this? I have an f-14 I thought about doing the same on two, you can still by the die cut to shape mylar for that one.
I thinks that certainly an option. I did a little research and found mylar by the roll at Pinrepair.com. Personally if i was going to take that route, i would cover the entire surface. Stick it down, trim the edges, use an exacto knife and carefully cut out all the holes for switches and such.
I know for fact my HS PF was never mylared. They never were mylared at the factory. When purchased new Williams threw the mylar sheet in cabinet and it was the purchasing owners responsibility to apply the mylar. My paint has held up just fine, some wear spots but nothing major.
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