(Topic ID: 39046)

Mylar pulling problems


By videobrain

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 19 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by rmancini
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 6 years ago

So I finally built up the courage to pull the mylar on my TFTC. There was already a bit near the outlane where it had raised up a bit so I thought it would be easy to spray under there and use that as my starting point. When I gave the mylar a little tug, a tiny piece of the edge just broke off. I grabbed another piece and again it just cracked off as though the mylar was really brittle. Now there were no raised bits left in that area, so I moved to another edge and started to pick at it with my fingernail. The mylar just started flaking off again! All the pics I've seen, people just seem to be able to get it off in one piece. What am I doing wrong? It's going to take weeks to chip it off bit by bit!

#2 6 years ago

I just did my Funhouse with no freeze spray. I did it slowly by hand and not a single piece of paint came off. I'm in no way saying that will work for you. But I got lucky. In some areas I used a plastic razor blade to get the lift started. Good luck and be sure to use the goo-gone and flour trick. It made the adhesive come up 10 times faster.

#3 6 years ago

try some heat with a hair dryer.
on high working back and forth over an area.
pull up lightly and heat while pulling.

#4 6 years ago

I had a go with a plastic razor blade and got one of the corners to raise quite well, but then as soon as I use the freeze spray, it turns the mylar brittle and makes it snap off. Going to get the hair dryer out now and combine it with the plastic razor blade

#5 6 years ago

Please keep us posted

#6 6 years ago

So far, so good with the hair dryer method. The highest heat setting definitely gives the best results

#7 6 years ago

It was going really well until the very last bit, I could see paint was starting to come off over an insert I went from a different angle to try and minimise the damage, and saved most of the paint apart from a chip on the corner, which came off with the mylar. But the paint that's left has lifted and it still has the glue on it that's left over from the mylar. Not really sure where to go from here

#8 6 years ago

I have a question for everyone though now? My Funhouse now looks great. Its not a diamond plated PF so how do I keep it in good shape? Just keep using novus 2? Will it eventually wear over time?

#9 6 years ago
Quoted from rmancini:

I have a question for everyone though now? My Funhouse now looks great. Its not a diamond plated PF so how do I keep it in good shape? Just keep using novus 2? Will it eventually wear over time?

Keep it clean and waxed with a good quality carnauba. There are lots of brands and types of wax, but expect to pay $30/can and up for the good stuff. If you do that, it should last pretty much forever.

#10 6 years ago

oh nice thanks! I just am nervous with the paint exposed but I will wax for sure!

-Rob

#11 6 years ago
Quoted from videobrain:

Not really sure where to go from here

The freeze method should have worked bechasue it doesn't require you to pull. it seems like you were trying to spray the freeze spray under the mylar. This is incorrect. You want to blast the topside of the mylar with plenty of freeze spray... maybe 10 seconds if neccesary. The glue will simply let go of the mylar and the plastic lifts up easily.... almost by istelf. It just leaves the glue behind.

With the heat method, you likely had to pull; and now you have paint lifting.

Naptha, goo gone or even alcohol & flour method are your only options for removing the adhesive. With raised paint this will be sacry and I am sure that touch-up will be neceesary.

Post a picture and lets see how bad it is. Maybe it can be easily salvaged.

#12 6 years ago

The damage is on the 3rd door insert. The top right corner has chipped off but I still have the piece, might be missing a tiny sliver. The paint is lifting on the bottom left a bit and the bottom right. I'm thinking the best option might just be to cut a piece of mylar to cover the area..

IMG_20130206_194334.jpeg

#13 6 years ago

That would be a very easy touch up.

Once you get the glue off, I would see if there is any more of that art wanting to lift off the insert. If so, inject a little bit of "thin CA glue" underneath. It will find its way into every crevice.

Once that has set, you should be able to paint that area and either use Mylar or mask off the area around and do a spot clearcoat from a can and buff it out.

Good luck

#14 6 years ago

Ok, thanks for the advice, I'm starting to feel a bit better about it now. I'll order the glue and it should be here by the time I get the mylar glue off the playfield. I will look into the spot clearcoating as that would definitely be preferable to putting down more mylar.

#15 6 years ago
Quoted from videobrain:

Ok, thanks for the advice, I'm starting to feel a bit better about it now. I'll order the glue and it should be here by the time I get the mylar glue off the playfield. I will look into the spot clearcoating as that would definitely be preferable to putting down more mylar.

Replacment mylar is not as bad in my opinion, plus you really only need to cover the area you are touching up, but if you feel comfortable spot clearcoating I say go for it.

#16 6 years ago
Quoted from rmancini:

Just keep using novus 2?

I would not keep Novus 2'ing it. According to the manufacturer, Novus 2 is equivelent to 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Looks clean afterwards because you're sanding the surface paint off. I use a good citrus cleaner, others use Novus 1.

#17 6 years ago

Sounds like some real good tips available in this thread

#18 6 years ago
Quoted from Drano:

That would be a very easy touch up.
Once you get the glue off, I would see if there is any more of that art wanting to lift off the insert. If so, inject a little bit of "thin CA glue" underneath. It will find its way into every crevice.
Once that has set, you should be able to paint that area and either use Mylar or mask off the area around and do a spot clearcoat from a can and buff it out.
Good luck

I'm using the alcohol and flour method, but it's still taking quite a while to remove. Is it a bad idea to glue the paint down with the thin CA glue before I remove the mylar glue from that piece? I'm a bit concerned that I'll damage the piece if I attempt to clean it before i've glued it down.

#19 6 years ago
Quoted from terryb:

I would not keep Novus 2'ing it. According to the manufacturer, Novus 2 is equivelent to 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Looks clean afterwards because you're sanding the surface paint off. I use a good citrus cleaner, others use Novus 1.

Thanks!!!

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