While I don't have any advice on mylar removal, or decal removal-- I can offer at least one bit of advice:

If you buy new insert decals, be careful as to what kind you get. Some have the ink printed "topside" and some have the ink printed on the bottom. Theoretically, the bottomside printed ones are made to be "peel 'n stick" and be done with it, whereas the topside inked insert decals are designed to be cleared over. In my limited experience, I've found that even the bottomside printed decals have lackluster performance if not clear coated over.

Level the inserts first.

I'm thinking that the original insert artwork was probably screened onto the playfield, so in order to get them off, your best bet would probably be to scrape off the old art with a razor, buff up the face of the insert, level it like Taxman said, then apply the new decals. I know some playfield restorers take the time to trim off excess decal bits from around the edges so that it's a better fit on the playfield.

Concerning mylar glue removal - It may not save your fingers, but I use Goo Gone, let it sit until it looks almost evaporated (Playfield should be level), then I use a plastic razor blade (Auto Parts stores have them) and carefully scrape off the glue. Takes two or three applications to really get all the glue off.
Down side is if the razor blade is in a holder and you slip, your holder can gouge the playfield.

Lets get this 100%.......goo gone works great on diamond plate playfields. flour and 99% on lacquered playfields.

once you get a dried out crisp of a playfield with a worn ground in surface you need to switch over to flour.

I've done tons of both and there are reasons to use one over the other depending on the field. goo gone gets laughed at by dried out crusty system 11 era mylar glue. just because goo gone or fancy orange spray worked on your WMS DCS game it doesn't mean it will work on every game. I've done mylar removal on 4 BK2Ks and experimented with the results. for one, goo gone worked, but the glue was soft and supple. the other was a total loss with the same method.

just my 2 cents.

-c

I have done both a High Speed and a Pinbot. Used Goo Gone on one and Orange Power on the other, both with plastic razor blades. Both worked great, but Orange Power was much easier.

Where do you source your 99%? All I can find locally is 91%. I'm not above trying something different - I've just never tried using flour and 99%. Do you still use the plastic razor blade or does the glue "gather up" with the flour? (I have visions of pizza dough mix, add water, and watch it turn into a ball)

your local pharmacy should have that.

Hardware store "Denatured Alcohol" is usually 30-50% Ethyl Alcohol (Ethanol) and 40-60% Methyl Alcohol (Methanol). No water. That's probably as close to 100% as you're going to get when it comes to alcohol.

Works good.

Finger are raw, playfield getting cleaner. Uggggggggggggghhhhhhhhhhh, this blows.

Found if I first cover in flour, then give it a isopropyl soak, rub and rub, takes a layer off, coat in flour again, soak in goo gone, repeat, takes next layer, then coat with flour and basically dry rub it comes off together. Clumpy glue flour bits.

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Good job...never got it to work on my HS.
EDIT: Flour was my last step after naptha and a plastic scraper

This method is so idiotic. Use naptha and an old credit card. Takes it right up. No need to use flour, keep that shit in the kitchen where it belongs.

Well soooory!

I actually got to a good spot where I mixed the goo gone with some isopropyl acl and some flour and scraped, it all clumped up nicely whereas everything was scraping together and took the main layer, then wiped one more coat of goo gone and wiped back and forth with a non abrasive sponge thingy. Took all the last bits and small stuck pieces. Did he second half twice as fast. Happy.

In the automotive detailing world there are solvents designed to remove decal/sticker glue. Very smelly, and very flammable.
Not sure if these solvents will attack the playfield paint/ink. It is surely is a possibility. The glue remover will soften up the adhesive allowing the glue to be wiped off or scraped off. But is on an automotive finish not silkscreened art work.

Some day, some where, some one, should try it on a damaged playfield. There is no point in using a product that will damage the surface of the playfield.

Go on....

Has anyone tried a 3M stripe off wheel? If not by itself, maybe even just at low speed instead of your fingers? I've used one for other things and it's not harsh, but you would want to watch the heat from the friction.

http://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Stripe-Off-Wheel?N=5002385+8709324+8709962+3293162209&rt=rud

-Mike

Agree, seems like a giant mess to me. I use Orange 909 and plastic razor blade. The 909 turns the glue into jelly in a couple of minutes.

Hi all just finished removing the Mylar and the glue residue from my Top Score . Was nervous to start but just used a hair dryer on low to warm it up as i slowly removed the Mylar. didn't pull up , pulled back over the still in place mylar . slow and steady. Took it of in small sections to reduce the pressure. Now for the glue residue.. Soooooo easy with Eucalyptus oil. Splashed it on in sections rubed it and used my fingernails. the glue released in less than a minute . kept it moist and scraped jelly glue off with a small plastic scraper. After i had 90% of it of i just went over it again with an old cotton sock dipped in Eucalyptus oil. Cant believe how easy it was. the sock worked a treat as it is rougher than the old tshirt i first used. will be confident in the future. here are a few pics is now "as new" lol

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Wow looks great pindaz!