(Topic ID: 58362)

My WoZ experience, first impressions, and lighting

By markmon

6 years ago

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  • 299 posts
  • 87 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by GaryMartin
  • Topic is favorited by 9 Pinsiders


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#28 6 years ago
Quoted from sturner:

Is there a way to lower the intensity of the inserts in the middle? Obviously can swap in lower powered LEDs, but wondering if there is a setting to lower the intensity.

Not so obvious. In fact, not even possible. The inserts are lit up by surface-mount components on light boards, not socketed LEDs. I imagine future software upgrades will allow owners to adjust average brightness levels of both inserts and GI. (Heck, you can adjust individual coil power, why not 2 brightness settings?)

#58 6 years ago
Quoted from Sunfox:

Yes, as soon as the GI is at a more comparable level to the inserts, the inserts will no longer seem so bright. A JJP employee said some time ago that WOZ's GI was only set at 36.5% of maximum brightness, so there's theoretically a lot more light they could be producing.

Y'know, there's no problem with overly bright inserts or lack of GI if you simply turn on a light or 2 in the room with the pinball machine! Does everybody here really play pinball in the dark? Best mod for a pinball room is to add indirect, dimmable lighting. Really. Or any lighting at all, I guess.

Quoted from Jvspin:

I don't have WOZ yet and usually play with some lighting in my game room because I also found that many of my games were not that playable in a completely dark room.

Ah, common sense! Thanks! Far better than throwing tons of aftermarket hacks into a new game, imo.

#64 6 years ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

To hard to move around after that many beers in the light...let alone pitch black.

Which is why I have 2 circuits of dimmable lighting in my gameroom (wall sconces and a track light). And a kegerator. Mellow lighting and you can see the playfield in all the different types of games. Even after all those beers.

#92 6 years ago
Quoted from John_I:

Very cool! I didn't even notice them and I had a good long look at WOZ last weekend. Looks like a little more frosting and a little brighter lighting might help throw some more light out onto the playfield.

Another option would be to use variations of the frosted tubes, maybe even (semi-)clear ones for more brightness. They would be easily replaceable and cheap. I'll wait to see what will be done via software first before altering the stock components, tho. (OK, I'll also wait to get my WOZ before modding ANYTHING! )

#110 6 years ago
Quoted from tonycip:

and for how long. as far back as the ohio show. at least 5 monts ago. gi were dim back then.
I'm sure the'll get it worked out.

I wonder if Alex still lurks here; looks like he was 'retired.' Or Lloyd? I think a couple of small bumps could be added to the GI LED boards so they can be reliably centered over the light posts during assembly (and stay there!). They could even be added to the existing stock of GI boards--no waste!

#117 6 years ago
Quoted from Half_Life:

Absolutely correct observation. The light tubes are performing exactly as designed.

Using a semi-clear tube would not provide more brightness. In fact, quite the opposite. The physics of the light tube is based on total internal reflection (TIR) and the index of refraction (I sub R) plus a few other things. Index of refraction basically states that light waves propagate differently when transiting from one medium to the next (glass to air; water to air). If the light tube sides are clear, more light energy escapes the tube boundary and is dissipated outward. If the light tubes are opaque, that interface (clear acrylic / frosted) reflects more light energy inward. However, the light tubes as shown will still dissipate light energy along its length. The light tubes would need to be "opaque" along the entire length except where it protrudes on the top of the playfield. Think of it as encapsulating it in a sleeve. The optimum would be a mirror finish to reflect all light back into the light tube but that may not be practical. The biggest factor would be to ensure the light is coupled to the light tube optimally; that is, aligned correctly. Light transmitted into any medium, to remain coherent, must be "launched" correctly.

Good thought but this ill have the opposite effect. It will actually break the light into its separate waves, much like a prism.

Some points there, but I was thinking of a more efficient/directed structure. Regardless, the biggest effect (after making sure the LEDs and tubes are aligned) would be to increase the output of the LEDs, for sure. (And if there was TIR, the tubes would be dark! )

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