Lawrence, KS
Did you try a 12v strip of 5050s on the top of the backboard, Stern-style to add more PF light? I think I am going to do that next myself.
(Topic ID: 58362)
Linked Games
Wizard of Oz
Jersey Jack, 2013
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Quoted from sturner:Is there a way to lower the intensity of the inserts in the middle? Obviously can swap in lower powered LEDs, but wondering if there is a setting to lower the intensity. Played it on location and had the same thoughts on the lighting as you do, it needs to be in a well lit room. But the inserts in the middle bothered me a lot, perhaps because there is no GI to balance it. I don't mind LEDs or anything, just felt when those got lit up it made it hard to track the ball.
Yes, they're adding controls to the software to let the end user adjust the GI light level and the Insert light levels. You will be able to tweak that to your heart's content. It *may* make the release that's due in a day or two, not sure until we get it.
Quoted from muttonboy:You could use something like this to wire into the existing spotlights. Would cost about the same as a cheap extension cord and the adapter.
http://www.trainaidsa.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=58&products_id=110
I'm sure there's other stuff than this out there, but this is the one I've found and used before.
That's a slick little module, too bad it only puts out 4.5 watts. ;(
Quoted from Sunfox:True, but could they not be tied into the controlled 12V spotlight circuit (drive 76)? Those are cut off when the GI is supposed to be completely out. Now, if there issues adding additional power draw, could not some sort of relay circuit be designed to control any number of additional lights/power draw desired?
That switched 12v GI in the spotlight circuit is what I plan to use for my additions. Going to use a 12vdc 5050 strip at the top of the backboard and then 13v flasher LEDs from Cointaker in a couple spots on the slings.
Quoted from Pindufus:I'll concede the lighting needs to be improved. I think those spots, however, are going to get the hell beat out of them. Even with the coil strengths dialed down, the balls on my game still fly all over the place, especially right after it's been cleaned. I'm waiting to see if they can improve the lighting in future code updates.
Yeah, I'm with you there. Balls flying all over the place on our WOZ, thinking about dialing back the strength on the slingshots myself. The pop bumpers also seem a bit over powered.
Quoted from Sunfox:Tomorrow... ish.
Actually it was posted tonight. Downloading 1.16 now!
Quoted from TaylorVA:Looks like everyone is downloading......slowly.
51% now. Who's hoggin the bandwidth?!?! 
Quoted from Sunfox:Might want to check what's in the photo, what the filename of that photo is called, and how you applied it to a specific individual. It may be passive-aggressive, however that doesn't make it any less offensive or insulting. But... so as to not be "over-sensitive", I do agree that the matter should be dropped out of respect for the original topic in this thread.
And along those lines... I'm thinking that if this is as good as it's going to get, then a few spotlights may indeed be needed. Probably not as many as Markmon used... and I think I'd consider different positions than what I've seen on the two example machines so far, simply because I wouldn't want to block any inserts, hang over the playfield, or obscure artwork unless absolutely necessary.
I wonder where you can buy the larger black spotlight reflectors JJP is using?
Since most LEDs are very directional, I never use those "cone of shame" reflectors on spots. Use some black shrink tubing to make sure the socket stays tight and plug something like a CT Superbright or Ultrabright into it. It's much less obtrusive and in black they mostly dissappear.
You do not have to stick WOZ outside in the daylight to play it. I have ours in a fairly dark room, indirect overhead lighting and it plays fine. I would like it a bit brighter, sure, but I haven't installed 1.18 yet even. (downloading now)
You can't play it in the dark. Just a little bit of ambient light and at least everyone here is able to play it fine.
I'll post pics tomorrow. Took some tonight of the WOZ next to the AFM. Light in the room is a pair of 15 watt white flourescents, two 40 watt blacklight flourescents and an indirect LED strip around three walls in the room that slowly rotates through different colors (not white).
It's plenty bright to play great by. After installing 1.18 tonight I hit a new high score for myself breaking the 500k barrier.
I'll post pics tomorrow. Took some tonight of the WOZ next to the AFM. Light in the room is a pair of 15 watt white flourescents, two 40 watt blacklight flourescents and an indirect LED strip around three walls in the room that slowly rotates through different colors (not white).
It's plenty bright to play great by. After installing 1.18 tonight I hit a new high score for myself breaking the 500k barrier.
Pics as promised. The AFM is lit with CT Superbrights and a 5050 blue strip on the backboard. Has mirror blades installed as well.
Quoted from DCfoodfreak:Whats this and where can I get it? Your AFM is rocking!
Thanks, that's a basic 12vdc 5050 LED strip. I get them from Aliexpress in China. They're available in a half dozen colors or you can just get RGB versions, and with a cheap (under $3) controller you can create any shade you want. You can also get it off Ebay. The stuff isn't expensive and looks like this:
You can cut that strip where you see the copper solder pads, every third 5050 LED. Size it to fit for what you want. Most of the strips come with a double sided adhesive on the back to mount it.
There's sixteen feet of it on a roll.
Use a cheap controller that will run 12vdc and you get basically any color you want. When the pin powers up, it reverts to last color set so it always powers on right.
Basic controller:
2 weeks later
Quoted from Chitownpinball:Monkey broke (like others)
Dark/Bright at same time (As said already)
Software was weak (could be old version not sure)
- Wizard kick out hole did literally nothing but play a barking sound effect and kick out
- Shots for middle right flipper were limited to skill shot as far as I could tell
Yep, shots to the Wizard's throne room just have Toto bark and kickout. It does add letters to "WIZARD" but nothing happens when you fill it (that I have seen) Seems to just be a place holder at this point.
The upper right flipper has a couple of things going on that many people miss besides the (hard) skill shot between the bumpers. Bank shots off the right hand bumper and off the witch sensor are about the only way to intentionally get at least the "R" in Rainbow and sometimes the "A" as well. Also the "Collect" for Horse of a Different Color is shot by raising the right flipper and shooting a bank shot off the bottom of it from the lower left flipper, going back to the shooter lane. (Though I usually find I can make it easier as backhand shot off the lower right flipper) Lastly, when starting Munchkinland modes, you want to hit Rainbow targets to increase the target value. The ball is held on the magnet above the UR flipper at the start of the mode, so you can quickly bank into Rainbow targets. It's a timed mode so the faster the better.
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