Wizard of Oz
Jersey Jack, 2013You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider cal50.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Quoted from Breadfan:So your saying all the new Sterns look"tacky"with spot lights? It's the way it's done now days.
Actually those are you're words making a Stern reference.
It is a surprise that a machine with lots of LED's needs extra lighting out of the box. Hopefully something can be done at the factory level (code / hardware) to make it brighter.
Does the WOZ LED's have any markings on them to ID the LED?
If you know the forward voltage (MAX) of the LED you can measure the actual current at the LED and figure out the headroom for voltage that can be applied to drive them.
I doubt its a liner curve but you would know if you are running near max or the low end of the LED.
Quoted from JoeJet:Thats pretty unbelievable that a user had to figure this out despite all the complaints about GI.
The more eyes looking at something the sooner issues will be noticed and / or corrected.
Quoted from Aurich:I believe he's only taking a week off.
This seems like a pretty terrible quality control issue, I've been really impressed with just about everything about the WOZ cabinet builds ever since I saw Jack demo the features at PAGG, but this ...
It an oversight and likely considered "good" if the tube lights up.
When optics are involved small misalignments can = huge performance issues. Speaking from an automotive perspective the headlights on your car must pass photometric testing. Its basically putting a headlight on a motorized aiming fixture and measuring the beam and dispersion in a dark tunnel. If the candela values drop off in certain areas the headlamp fails inspection. This can be caused by a small ( 1MM or less) variation in the bulb shield, reflector housing, bulb socked fit, etc.
In the case of WOZ a misalignment ( LED / optic tube) can be seen with the naked eye and made a big difference. This is where your tooling & fixtures come into play for quality and consistency.
Quoted from dkpinball:First, I agree that the GI lighting is far too dim. I put a scope on each of the LED leads when the GI was bright white and I found that that the PWM duty cycle appears to be at 60%. This being someone else’s game, I was afraid to poke at it too hard. I couldn’t get a good place to connect the ground on my test lead so the signal was noisy, but we all agreed that 60% seemed right.
If that’s the case, there probably isn’t a lot of room for improvement coming from the software.
A 40% boost might seem like a lot, but where PWM and LED brightness are concerned, the increase from 0% - 100% isn’t linear. The most dramatic light differences happen in the mid-range. While 30% to 60% might be dramatic increase in brightness, 60% to 100% will probably be almost imperceptible.
Good info-
The max light output would likely be correct alignment of LED / tubes vs frequency change or voltage increase. Fortunately this costs nothing and just some handwork and inspection of existing light tube / LED alignment on the game itself.
I wonder if you can see the difference in light output comparing a correctly aligned light tube / LED vs a misaligned one using a night shot camera? It might save time looking at every light tube / LED.
Quoted from dkpinball:Disconnect the Gi chain from the machine. Use the Arduino board as the driver and have it light up the GI at 100%. It would remove all doubt about whether or not the GI can ever be fixed with software.
That is what needs to happen.
or
If the software is revised a setting for GI = 100%
Then you will know , by eye, if its enough or needs fixed by other means.
Quoted from viper001:As an outsider to past nasty debates (and hopefully therefore an impartial 3rd party observer) as much as the JJP haters get thrashed for causing problems on the forum it does seem like the JJP crusaders deserve a lot of the blame. What is actually refreshing about this thread is that actual, legitimate problems with the game can be discussed without the people reporting them being shouted out of the room as "haters", etc.
If the JJP version of Mr. Scott "I'm giving her all she's got Captain, but it's no use!!!" can't solve this issue it will be pretty interesting to see the reaction from the company. I personally think the solution should come from them instead of 3rd party add-ons, but that is just my opinion.
I think you pretty much nailed it.
There was a lot of taunting back and forth from both sides of WOZ buyers and the so called WOZ haters which got nasty and personal in some cases. The lighting issue will be interesting to see how or if it gets resolved. You can have the best built item in the world but an engineering oversight or missed spec part make build quality a moot point if performance suffers.
Some of WOZ H8TRS may have been over the top but some JJP supporters were just as bad.
Quoted from markmon:So v1.18 did brighten the GI. Now you can see it as part of the light show. Especially in the back through the ramp. Looks nice. However, it does absolutely nothing to light the playfield in the dark.
Makes you ask woz-up with the GI?
Quoted from DCfoodfreak:Dude at what point will you admit you love coming in to start shit with everyone as well.
Lighten up Francis.
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider cal50.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/my-woz-experience-first-impressions-and-lighting?tu=cal50 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.
St. Clair Shores, MI