So, innocently enough, I adjusted my TOM eddy outlane boards cuz the left was sporadic and the right wasn't working at all. Adjusted, switch test...all good. Played some games...when the right magnet fired for the first time, the right flipper powered up & all the other coils went dead...then the game just froze. The lights and inserts were still on but the DMD was all scrambled. I turned the game off and on...got the boot up beep & attract lights but the DMD is just scrambled non-sense. If you hit start you can kind of see through the DMD garble & the insert lights that a game has started but no ball kicks out and there is no sound. If I try to go into diagnostics it resets.

WTF happened!? Seems like my right magnet has something to do with it but how could it take out my whole game?

So I just took a look at stuff...F112 was blown. Obviously there's more wrong than that, but I replaced it. Now when I turn the game on, it won't even boot up...it turns on for about a a second & the right flipper powers up....then it shuts off...tries to power on again...shuts off.

K, just did that...my game has a Rottendog power board...all voltage lights are lit.

So weird ...when I disconnected the CPU it made the "bong" sound when turning it on. When I connected the CPU again, now it just makes that "click" speaker sound - no "bong", no flipper getting stuck up now...nothing...just dead.

Strange that adjusting the Eddy sensor seemed to be the catalyst of this implosion.

My TOM doesn't have a Rottendog MPU...it has a Rottendog Power and DMD board.

...but yeah, I could swap my RS's MPU into my TOM. Actually I have a 2nd TOM that I was going to finish shopping out and sell that I could swap boards with too...but then I might F up the TOM that's gonna be for sale lol ...oh, pinball.

CPU and MPU are the same thing. If there's some ground issue on the game - putting a repaired board in there will just blow up again.

Seems that the problem happened when the magnet and flipper got stuck on - would it be worth putting the RS MPU in TOM and turning it on with the HV off - just to see if it boots up? Then press the interlock switch for a sec to see if the flipper gets stuck up again? At least that way I'll know for sure if my power board is damaged & I prob have to replace the flipper's transistor.

Will do! Gonna wheel this poor dead game out to the garage and test further out there...

K, Rob - just did this. When I turn the game on, the top and bottom LEDs are on...then after it goes "bong" - the bottom one is lit solid,the middle one just blinks rapidly forever, top one is off.

According to repair guides, that means normal...right?

Man the behavior on this thing is so odd...OK, so - I reconnected everything after doing the "Rob test". Now, the game comes up in attract mode - but no sound and DMD is scrambled (solid, no "ghost" images). When I turned on the game with the CPU detached, I got the "bong" sound. Now that it's attached, no sound. When I closed the coin door, this time BOTH flippers powered up and the 50v fuse blew instantly. If I press start, the game goes into the start sequence, but no ball launch, no sound. Eventually the trunk starts turning (ball search).

Soooo...maybe the CPU isn't the problem? Maybe this is all related to the Rottendog power board? Hmmmm

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K, thanks for all the great troubleshooting ideas! When I start tinkering again I'll report my findings.

You can remove your thumbs-downs for Rob & Carl because....

DING DING DING DING DING. I finally got around to monkeying with the game yesterday - and it turns out the ribbon cable going from the CPU to Fliptronic to DMD board was what was causing the problem. As soon as I swapped that w/ the one from my Shadow, the game came right up and played fine! Amazing that a ribbon cable would randomly go 'bad' causing the 50v fuse to blow, DMD to garble, and sound to go out...WTF...but YAY, my ToM is back in action! Ready for ColorDMD!

Thanks man! Really glad to have gotten my Road Show and Theatre back in business with very minimal work (just a lot of confusion!). My Road Show resets seem to be resolved by making sure the CPU was attached better.

Only 2 games left to fix and all my games are up! BSD has some battery leak damage on the CPU - I can probably fix it (or get lazy and send it to someone ). Shadow's brick wall target is still acting like a butthole. 2 games down ain't bad, though!