(Topic ID: 123562)

A Boob Job: My "This Ain't No HEP" Funhouse Restoration - COMPLETE

By beelzeboob

8 years ago


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  • Latest reply 4 years ago by tomm1963
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There are 324 posts in this topic. You are on page 6 of 7.
#251 8 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

This post made intentionally while you type to interrupt your flow

Flow foil foiled! I'm doing the next posts tomorrow. Got too tired and didn't want to rush (good advice for restorations and resto documentation!) Hope to see you soon, Brent!

Quoted from mof:

Awesome!
-mof

Thanks, buddy...means a lot!

#252 8 years ago

About time you posted some pictures.

In all seriousness, thank you for sharing.

#253 8 years ago

Noob question o' the day...

Should I install new mylar around the pop bumpers or just leave it because it will now be HUO? I've got sheets of that Avery mylar that I've used in the past with success. Just don't know if it's necessary.

#254 8 years ago

I tend not to mylar any home use games

#255 8 years ago

Nice photos. Must be that new Android phone

#256 8 years ago
Quoted from Rferullo:

Nice photos. Must be that new Android phone

Wise ass. It's a compact camera.

#257 8 years ago

Chapter Ten: Bottoms Up!

Before moving to the underside, I had to disconnect all the things that were still wired topside from underneath. That meant the three GI sockets and the ball trough coil. I didn't take any general PF pictures underneath (for the most part), but every photo was incredibly detailed, showing me where every wire and nut went. Check out the Stern coil on a Funhouse:

IMG_1001.JPGIMG_1001.JPG

I began removing mechs/solenoids from the top of the playfield, moving my way down. When I got to the subway, I removed the scoop and subway to get them out of the way. While doing that, I realized I was getting annoyed by the light boards as well, so those came out, too.

IMG_1033.JPGIMG_1033.JPG

Last to go were the pop bumpers. Being in the hobby less than two years, the pops have always been a mystery to me. I had no idea how they worked. So I took tons of pictures during the teardown, starting with this one:

IMG_1066.JPGIMG_1066.JPG

McCune was a huge help (I didn't leave him alone much!) and Vid's guide to rebuilding pop bumpers was also a big help to me while I was trying to figure out the disassembly of these things, which are an absolute work of genius, if you ask me. If you don't have a McCune or Kelly to bother all the time, Vid's guides are absolutely essential for diving in and learning how things work, and I'll be referring to them often during the rebuild.

Once the pops were out, it was harness removal time. I took off the solenoid harness first. I didn't have to worry too much about where everything went because of the "memory" of the wire bundle and the fact that the end of every wire was labeled. Next to go was the lighting harness. I took detailed shots of the location and wiring of every bulb, like this:

IMG_1100.JPGIMG_1100.JPG

After those two harnesses were gone, I was left with the switch harness and was almost home.

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Took detailed pics of the location of every switch and removed the harness. Removed the hinges and harness guides, and I was left with a completely stripped playfield.

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Now it's time to figure out just what the hell I need to put this all back together again...

#258 8 years ago

Chapter Eleven: Taking Stock

A lot of restoration threads skip this step in their documentation, but I think it's an important one to point out. Now that everything is apart and sorted, I'm taking some time to look over everything to see what is damaged or too rusted to clean properly. That way I can place an order for most or all of the parts I'll need to complete the job, and get busy cleaning while I'm waiting for them to arrive. This includes looking over Rudy (although I know I'll be using the Pinbits eye kit when I rebuild him):

IMG_1125.JPGIMG_1125.JPG

I also know I'll be replacing both ramps, but the rails, guides, and scoops are completely salvagable (even the nasty rusted ball guide):

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All the plastics will be replaced, but I'll check over all the bagged and numbered hardware bags to see if I missed any corrosion or rusting that I'm not happy with:

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Light boards and controller boards are fine...they just look like they've been living in somebody's chimney for 25 years:

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All the solenoids are labeled. When I disassemble them to check for wear and when it comes time to rebuild them, I'll tape the labels to the table and keep all associated parts in one area next to that label. That way, when I'm cleaning them and go to rebuild, I know exactly what parts go with which mech:

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Finally, there are the harnesses, which will be thoroughly cleaned. I know that I'll be replacing every switch, but some of the light sockets look new--and all the lights worked before teardown--so I'll keep a good portion of those and just scrub them with small wire brushes from pinrestore.com:

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This could take some time...

#259 8 years ago

In a slightly related post, I have a Funhouse playfield for sale that would be an excellent candidate to be restored...

#260 8 years ago

You've been hard at work Randy... can't wait to play it.

#261 8 years ago

Chapter Twelve: To the Top of the Pops

Let's get something out of the way first: Regraining ball guides sucks big hairy donkey balls.

Here's how I approached rebuilding the playfield: I disassembled a batch of solenoids with the exact same type coil. This kept me from ever mixing my coils up. I started with the greenies (the 26-1200s). That meant the pop bumpers and a few others. It's the most popular coil in Funhouse.

IMG_1137.JPGIMG_1137.JPG

While metal parts were in the tumbler overnight, I kept all other parts separated and labelled. Coils got scrubbed with purple power and a paint brush cut in half, and all plastics were replaced (because, hey...they're cheap!).

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At no time is there nothing getting done. Even overnight, parts are getting tumbled. During the day, that gives me time for the labor-intensive stuff...like those f**king ball guides. Here's a particularly worn one:

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First I scrubbed it with purple power, which already made it look a hell of a lot better...

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Then, after sanding it by hand with 120-grit sandpaper until my puny arm was getting sore, I said "F**k this!" and got a detail sander out with 180-grain paper:

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After that, it was back to hand sanding with 320-grit:

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And finally, with a Scotch Brite pad. The discoloration by the spot welds are just that, and (at least for me) there was no real way to get it out without screwing up the rest of the guide. I didn't care anyway because the entire thing gets hidden under ramps:

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All coils had extra solder knocked off of them via the Bryan Kelly method:

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When I got tired of regraining ball guides, I took a break and did a little of the underside stuff. Why? Because it was easy. And sometimes when you're doing a pain in the ass job, you need a little easy. I decided to replace the subway rather than clean and flame polish it. My subway had black spots that seemed to be melted into the plastic. So instead, I'll be practicing my flame polishing skills on the subway I won't use in case I accidentally melt the thing. Light boards and sockets were scrubbed with Simple Green and a paint brush.

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I got some new ramp flaps from Pinbits, which I put on using the riveter from pinrestore.com. But now that I have the stainless flaps on, I think I like the blue ones better. Might have to switch back.

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Finally, with the posts out of the tumbler, I put all the posts and ball guides back on (along with the topside kicker and three new light sockets...rails were repainted, of course). After putting the standard black and yellow post sleeves on, I realized that black post sleeves just weren't Funhouse-y enough. There's nothing fun about black, let's face it. So I ordered all yellow superbands posts and put those on instead.

I reassembled the top of the pop bumpers, and that signified that it was time to start putting all of the solenoids back into their places on the underside...

...which is the next chapter in this seemingly neverending saga.

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#262 8 years ago

Harbor freight sells an abrasive ball you use with a drill. Works great on ball guides.

#263 8 years ago

Yeah...I have those. Someone here suggested it for my lockdown receiver earlier in the thread (you, maybe?). I just felt like I had more control getting it to look right if I did the latter stages by hand.

#264 8 years ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

Yeah...I have those. Someone here suggested it for my lockdown receiver earlier in the thread (you, maybe?). I just felt like I had more control getting it to look right if I did the latter stages by hand.

I agree with doing it by hand. I've tried the flaps and balls in the drill and I just don't get even, straight lines. I do all mine by hand and it takes about an hour for an entire game. I start with the ugliest ones and end up with the simplest ones to do last. FWIW, being kicked in the nuts would be less painful than regraining ball guides. I hate it!!

#265 8 years ago

Always psyched to see a new post on this thread! Keep it comin'!

#266 8 years ago

Looking good Randy!!!

#267 8 years ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

All coils had extra solder knocked off of them via the Bryan Kelly method:

Can you reveal what said method is (do I detect sarcasm) ?

#268 8 years ago
Quoted from phuping:

Can you reveal what said method is (do I suspect sarcasm) ?

Sure.

I picture Chris Hutchins gently caressing the old solder off the leads down there at HEP. But as the thread title states, this ain't no HEP restoration. And I'm white trash, so Bryan Kelly's method works perfectly for me. Here's how you do it:

1. Heat the old solder until it liquifies.
2. Smack the shit out of it against a hard surface.
3. Repeat.
4. If you smacked it too hard and broke off the lead (I didn't), go online and order another coil.

Great system...can't be beat. Enjoy!

#269 8 years ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

Sure.
I picture Chris Hutchins gently caressing the old solder off the leads down there at HEP. But as the thread title states, this ain't no HEP restoration. And I'm white trash, so Bryan Kelly's method works perfectly for me. Here's how you do it:
1. Heat the old solder until it liquifies.
2. Smack the shit out of it against a hard surface.
3. Repeat.
4. If you smacked it too hard and broke off the lead (I didn't), go online and order another coil.
Great system...can't be beat. Enjoy!

Yikes...
-mof

#270 8 years ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

Sure.
I picture Chris Hutchins gently caressing the old solder off the leads down there at HEP. But as the thread title states, this ain't no HEP restoration. And I'm white trash, so Bryan Kelly's method works perfectly for me. Here's how you do it:
1. Heat the old solder until it liquifies.
2. Smack the shit out of it against a hard surface.
3. Repeat.
4. If you smacked it too hard and broke off the lead (I didn't), go online and order another coil.
Great system...can't be beat. Enjoy!

LMAO

#271 8 years ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

Sure.
I picture Chris Hutchins gently caressing the old solder off the leads down there at HEP. But as the thread title states, this ain't no HEP restoration. And I'm white trash, so Bryan Kelly's method works perfectly for me. Here's how you do it:
1. Heat the old solder until it liquifies.
2. Smack the shit out of it against a hard surface.
3. Repeat.
4. If you smacked it too hard and broke off the lead (I didn't), go online and order another coil.
Great system...can't be beat. Enjoy!

I get no love at all.

#272 8 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

I get no love at all.

Wrong. You and McCune get ALL the love for all the help you've provided with this project.

You're just gonna get a little ball-busting as well...

#273 8 years ago

FYI...project temporarily on hold while I await new flipper coils and do a little colon prep for some ass spelunking tomorrow.

Yeah. You read that right.

#274 8 years ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

FYI...project temporarily on hold while I await new flipper coils and do a little colon prep for some ass spelunking tomorrow.
Yeah. You read that right.

Best of luck asshole.

#275 8 years ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

FYI...project temporarily on hold while I await new flipper coils and do a little colon prep for some ass spelunking tomorrow.
Yeah. You read that right.

Led Zeppelin - In Through The Out Door! You should ask the doctor to play it during...

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#276 8 years ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

FYI...project temporarily on hold while I await new flipper coils and do a little colon prep for some ass spelunking tomorrow.
Yeah. You read that right.

Sounds like a lovely Hump Day adventure...

#277 8 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

Best of luck asshole.

That part of me won't get the best of luck, I'm afraid. I'm getting the over/under. If he's using the same hose, he damn well better go over before he goes under.

Jesus...where's the smiling poop icon on Pinside when you need it?

#279 8 years ago

Chapter Thirteen: Solenoids, Flippers, and Pops...Oh My!

First things first. Remember back in Chapter Eleven (Taking Stock) I said you should take a moment to figure out all the parts you'll need a place a huge order so you have everything on hand during the rebuild?

F that. Marco and Pinball Life must have gotten over a hundred bucks in shipping from me since I started this project. Just last week I placed five--FIVE!!!--orders. F...M...L...

Anyway, it's finally time to clean and rebuild all of the solenoids in the game. This was my first opportunity to rebuild pops and flippers. I followed Vid's guides for both and started with the pops, which I pictured in pieces in the last post.

I worked my way from the back of the playfield towards the flippers, and finally it was time for a flipper rebuild:

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When the flippers were installed, aligned, and the switch calibrated (exactly 1/8th of an inch when open!), the bottom of the playfield was done for the time being.

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Those of you with a keen eye will notice that the trap door mech isn't installed. That's because SOMEbody sent me the wrong coil wrappers for a few of the coils.

With everything installed on the bottom, the finish line is finally in sight. All that's left is the harnesses, Rudy, and the ramps.

And speaking of the topside, here's where it's at. I installed the plastics just to get them on the game. Yes, I know I'll have to take a couple off to route wires. I don't care. I wanted them out of the way and in place to avoid any damage (you have no idea what a train wreck my garage is).

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I decided to attack the ramps first...

#280 8 years ago

Chapter Fourteen: Ramping Up

You might recall my ramps looked like they had been in a house fire...

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So I had to get brand new ones to start with, along with all new plastics.

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This was actually a more annoying step than I would have thought. I had to drill out rivets to keep the little brackets that hold signs, and re-rivet all the new plastics. All the small harnesses were washed and switches replaced. The habitrails were polished with a combination of Flitz and Mother's. Here are the tools of the trade:

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When it was all finally done, I had brand new ramps...and the garbage men had some pretty weird garbage to collect...

Here are the new ramps with Cliffy's installed. (And I'm sorry, Cliffy...you make great products that extend the life of your machine, but what a bitch to install...even during a restoration. I had to install two posts in the playfield....WHAAAAAAT??? )

IMG_1217.JPGIMG_1217.JPG

Next up, I'll be doing the harnesses and Rudy at the same time...

#282 8 years ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

Next up, I'll be doing Rudy...

Nice job on that creepy Funhouse restoration! Poor Rudy!

#283 8 years ago
Quoted from Pinterest:

Nice job on that creepy Funhouse restoration! Poor Rudy!

Yes...well...his mouth IS open...

#284 8 years ago

Can't wait to play it...

#285 8 years ago

Chapter Fifteen: The Hardy-Har-Harnesses

Ahh! Summer in Italy...and the grapes are hanging off the pergola...

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Wait! Those aren't grapes!

(Short side story: A neighbor asked me, "WTF is THAT???" when he saw the harnesses drying in the sun. I told him and he looked at me like I was crazy. "Do you know what you're doing?" he asked. I shrugged and said, "We'll see when shit blows up.")

So I scrubbed and dried the harnesses, and it was time for the next pain in the ass job: rebuilding all the switches:

IMG_1214.JPGIMG_1214.JPG

I systematically went through the entire switch harness and replaced everything (still waiting on some sling switches...). I was careful to double check for any shorted wires. Being careful now would save a bunch of trouble down the road. And can I just say that actuator wires and big bundles of wiring definitely do NOT mix? The hooked actuators kept getting caught on EVERYTHING and I had to be careful not to rip them off when untangling all the mess.

Here's what insanity looks like...

IMG_1216.JPGIMG_1216.JPG

Finally, it was time to put the harnesses back on. I began with the switch harness.

IMG_1227.JPGIMG_1227.JPG

Followed it with the GI harness.

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And finished off with the solenoid harness, resoldering all the leads and once again careful of shorted wires when replacing any parts. Everything was tied off to clean up the appearance...

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...and the underside was done...

...except for that frigging trap door assembly, which I couldn't finish because USPS "First Class" sucks big hairy donkey dong and the stuff I need STILL hasn't arrived.

All that's left is to finish up the trap door, install the ramps, and rebuild that douchebag Rudy.

Then it's time to plug in and blow shit up.

#286 8 years ago

what a beautiful yard!

#287 8 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

what a beautiful yard!

That's Italy.

#288 8 years ago

No this is Italy Italy 2014 650.JPGItaly 2014 650.JPG
What u got there is the grapes of Wrath!

#289 8 years ago
Quoted from Skypilot:

No this is Italy Italy 2014 650.JPG
What u got there is the grapes of Wrath!

You're damn right.

And my yard is nicer.

#290 8 years ago

I'm guessing it will be ready before the JJP open house? Hope so cause I'm stopping by and want to play it.

#291 8 years ago

It'll be done later this week. Then, after it catches fire, I'll begin work on my second restoration.

#292 8 years ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

Then, after it catches fire

Be prepared !!!

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#293 8 years ago

Chapter Sixteen: I'm in the Mood for a Little Head

Tough day today.

Note to self and other noobs: Did you put your playfield back together correctly? Did everything fall into place better than you thought it would and you found yourself relying on your photos less and less? Well, goody two shoes for you. Now, don't get cocky and under-document your disassembly of something as complex as Rudy.

IMG_1218.JPGIMG_1218.JPG

Many thanks to Eddie, McCune, and LTG for their patience with me. The problem with my Rudy was that, even with pictures, the insides hadn't been reassembled the way they were supposed to. Coils were in backwards, wires were falling off, and there were things like this...

DOUCHEBAG ALERT #1: Who's the j/o that drilled a second hole?

IMG_1219.JPGIMG_1219.JPG

DOUCHEBAG ALERT #2: Let's see if you can spot the problem with this one...

IMG_1242.JPGIMG_1242.JPG

(Hint: It's called a "coil stop" for a reason...)

Anyway, I finally took everything apart. Rudy never looked better.

IMG_1244.JPGIMG_1244.JPG

The big question was the coil in the picture above. (This has been discussed elsewhere on the web, but not nearly enough...so if you're redoing a FH, take note!). In the manual, it states that EVERY coil inside Rudy's head is an SM-30-1100-DC. But that's not true. The one coil that works Rudy's eyelids is, in actuality, an SM-31-900-DC. Mine had an 1100 red wrapper around it, but another white band placed around THAT wrapper stating that it was a 900.

I made the mistake of following the manual and ordered another 1100 coil from PBL. (It was the smart thing to do...I had the wrappers for that coil!). But after talking to Eddie, and doing some research, I found that the manual is WRONG. That coil is supposed to be a 900. So I wrapped it with masking tape and reinstalled it (while I wait for the correct wrapper from PPS).

With all the parts cleaned and properly installed, he looked better already:

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My wife, the artistic one, did the repaints and touch-ups while I struggled with the rebuild. I used epoxy putty to mend the hole in Rudy's head, and once the parts were dry, he was ready to be replaced in the game (open wide, bee-yotch!):

IMG_1247.jpgIMG_1247.jpg

And the hole is history...

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Tomorrow is final reassembly of the ramps, head, apron, and backboard...and the playfield goes back into the machine!

#294 8 years ago

I originally saved this spot to keep yzfguy (which I now understand means "wise f-ing guy") from breaking up my flow, but realized I didn't really need it.

People who wear teal shirts have a tendency to do that, you know.

#295 8 years ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

Chapter Sixteen: I'm in the Mood for a Little Head
Tough day today.

Anyway, I finally took everything apart. Rudy never looked better.

I see you were unlucky and able to re-assemble Rudy - Funhouse might actually be more valuable without creepy Rudy. LOL

#296 8 years ago

CAX had a funhouse where Rudy had a Grouch Marx set of glasses on. Lots less creepy...

#297 8 years ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

I originally saved this spot to keep yzfguy (which I now understand means "wise f-ing guy") from breaking up my flow, but realized I didn't really need it.
People who wear teal shirts have a tendency to do that, you know.

LOL, and here I was gonna make a sincere comment! My Rudy has the same double drill hole on both sides! I threw up a little when I saw the exploded, disassembled head pic. I had to replace that delrin link and gear in there and I took apart each lettle section at a time because of the way that stuff is rigged up in that tiny space. Very nice, thorough job, man

#298 8 years ago

What touch up paint did your wife need to do? Would love to see a before and after. Looks great. Love seeing this come together.

#299 8 years ago

Look at the jaw in the first pic and then the repainted lower lip. She also repainted the lower jaw to match the face color and touched up a scrape on one cheek spot. She had to do the repaired hole as well. And I think she even blended some color on the face because the plastic was uneven in color due to sun exposure.

#300 8 years ago

Chapter Seventeen: Now Fix It, Dumbass!

So here's a little tip from a first timer: Get yourself the Pinrestore.com riveter - it's a huge life saver when you have to do a lot of factory rivets like you do on a Funhouse. But here's the catch: Spring for the extra $30 long head rivet die. It helps you do ramps in a jif. I took forever trying to figure out workarounds for putting the rivets into deep areas like ramps. I finally gave in and bought the damn thing.

IMG_1253.JPGIMG_1253.JPG

I reassembled everything, put the playfield in, and waited 24 hours until my wife came in and said to me (verbatim):

Her: Are you gonna turn the thing on, or what?
Me: Eventually. I'm scared to. I'm bringing the fire extinguisher down just in case.
Her: You are such a pussy. If you don't do it, I will.

Needless to say, I plugged the GI in and turned it on, then did the same with the switch harness, and then the solenoid harness. Nothing caught fire, nothing arced or blew up. And it looked pretty damn nice. (Not a big fan of graphic blades, but the Pingraffix set with apron makes a fun-looking game even more fun-looking. I think the apron on a FH is the ugliest part of the machine. I kept the original, though!)

IMG_1257.JPGIMG_1257.JPG

But here's the laundry list of fixes I'm facing (as far as I can tell with all the tests I've run)...and anybody who can give me any leads to make it go smoother will be forever in my debt:

MECHANICAL:

1. Every time I flipped the flippers, the bottom flippers would stop higher...and higher...and higher. I was able to push them down back into place, and that's how I realized they might be a little too loose.

2. I'm not having a shooter centering problem like some people do. My problem is that the ball doesn't rest against the shooter tip, so I don't have enough power to get the ball around the steps ramp or perform any type of skill shot with the main shooter.

SOLENOID:

1. Right-hand pop (the white one) doesn't fire.

2. Dummy eject doesn't work.

3. Tunnel kickout goes once, then hums (I'm assuming it freezes.)

LIGHTS:

1. Dummy flasher doesn't work.

2. Red and white diamond flashers under main ramp don't work.

SWITCHES (and here's the big problem...):

1. Start button doesn't start a game.

2. Right sling switches don't work.

And the big one...

3. Left outlane triggers the left sling and says "trap door" on the screen during a test. I'm going to have to check all my diode directions on those affected switches, I guess. I thought I was careful about that, though!

This, for me, is the worst part of a restoration. You put all that work into the game, and in a perfect world, you fire it up and can play a game right away. But I know that's not reality. So I'll try to hunt down each of these problems one at a time over the next few days.

Again, any help from anyone who's seen this stuff would be more than welcome!

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Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
From: $ 649.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
$ 17.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
Toys/Add-ons
$ 399.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
8,000 (Firm)
Machine - For Sale
Reno, NV
From: $ 159.95
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
PinSound
Sound/Speakers
$ 27.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
Eproms
4,750 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Fairfield, CT
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
Shooter rods
$ 15.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Gweem's Mods
Sound/Speakers
$ 95.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Pinball Mod Co.
Sound/Speakers
$ 26.99
Lighting - Interactive
Lee's Parts
Interactive
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