(Topic ID: 240319)

My Sky Jump Restore.. ( Its Complete!!!)

By tscottn

1 year ago

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  • 60 posts
  • 13 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by PinballPimp
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#1 1 year ago

Well after a few months of getting this EM pin mechanically sound enough to the point that I am now comfortable to start the cabinet restore without having to worry too much about it not working correctly when I put it all back together.. I have decided today was the day to start. The wife is out of town for a few weeks so i am left to my own devices.. I figured this was better than spending my time and money on hookers and blow.. so what the hell....just kidding ))

My plans are a full strip down, wood repair, repaint, then back together she goes. I already have stencils from the Pimp. so im good there.

Ok so I also need to thank markg and howardr for the big help in getting the mechanical issues worked out and also boilerman for the score reel parts he was kind enough to send and anyone else in this forum for all the help thus far...

Here are some before pics of the machine before the tear down begins, as you can see it doesn't look super bad, but the yellowing as well and scratches and chips, dings, etc need to go!

The backglass is actually in decent condition with just a few scratches and a few noticeable touch-ups on the Sky Jump red lettering, but nothing that I cant live with for now.. The play field has been a work in progress.. there are some pretty dirty areas that i am afraid to try and remove due to the age of the PF. I doubt I would be able to restore the PF paint with any type of accuracy to color and artistic value to the original so im gonna leave it alone.. the inserts have some cupping too but the machine plays really well..

I replaced all the plastic posts and screws, the pop bumper bodies and caps and the roll over guides.. the new white clean plastics really make a big difference., I also repainted the apron and upper arch area as well, I think this makes it really pop out nicely. ( BTW, I used Pinball Rescue apron decal and it really turned out nice.. ) I still need to order a new set of plastics from them but will do that as I get closer to cab completion.

This will be fun.. please let me know what you think so far and I am definitely open to suggestions, comments, critics as well.. I will try and update this threads every day as I make any progress,..

I am probably going to do splatter instead of webbing and maybe a few other nice tweeks here and there. This is just my preference as I just love the look of the splatter and this is something I am going to look at everyday. I will probably never sell it either, mostly because I am a collector and not a flipper..( no pun intended )

Stay tuned..
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#2 1 year ago

As you can see there is a bit of rust on lots of the metal parts.. i am planning on using evaporust on the lockdown bar and all the smaller metal pieces. I did purchase a new coin door from PBR since this one is really dinged up. Looks like someone tried to break in it. I also ordered new legs and I will clean these up and im sure reuse them on another pin down the road.. the lower cabinet mechanics are pretty dirty, but this is something I will tackle after the base coat of paint on the cab as it will be awhile in drying time before I can lay down the stencils.. So I will have some time.. probably going to cut a new bottom board for this as well.

#3 1 year ago

Siderails removed.. they came off pretty easily using Vids method with a drywall scraper. once pried just a bit i used needle nose plyers to pull and twist just a little then regular pliers to get them out the rest of thew way. not too bad. you can see the paint underneath looks a lot better.

Tomorrow I will start stripping her down.. im thinking of replacing the bottom of the cab with something more solid.. the thin wood in there is easily bending and pretty fragile.

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1 week later
#5 1 year ago

Just thought I would share a few updates with you since I have been busy at work on my SJ cabinet. Much has happened so here it is..

I completed removing all the paint from the cab. For this I used a Random Orbital Sander with 60 grit. The sander made short work of all that paint. In addition it should go without saying I am always wearing a respirator when doing this kind of work. That lead paint is nasty stuff.

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#6 1 year ago

Next is the bondo and sanding.. after I got the cab to where I felt it was good and smooth, I primed with Killz original. I used the rattle cans but I think next time I will roll it on since I have to re-sand again afterwords anyway..Rattle cans way to expensive for what I needed. So after I primed it I was able to see all my mistakes and the flaws really were apparent, so I bondo again and re-sanded then primed again to check for any more issues.. Probably did this a few more times until I was happy with the finish and felt it was ready for its first coat of base

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#7 1 year ago

Also the Killz rattle cans are so high pressure you really need to be fast sweeps because you will get runs in the blink of an eye. I had a few runs which I was able to remove and sand down ..

#8 1 year ago

Last coat of primer and light sanding with 400 then 800 grit by hand for a nice smooth finish. Little bit of the bondo showing through as you can see but I wasent too worried about it..

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#9 1 year ago

I added a new bottom on top of the old one with some scrap wood I had. This really made the bottom of the cab way more sturdy. I left the medal security plate sandwiched in between the wood. I wasent gonna try and pull that thing off.. it seems fine where it is..

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#10 1 year ago

I did about 5 coats of base.. here it is.. the pics make it look a little more off white than it really is.. Also added a splatter effect to the base coat. I used the kempler splatter brush with great results. practiced on a piece of scrap first.. one thing I noticed with this brush is the paint likes to accumulate at the top and if it does you will get some bigger drops so I always made sure there was no paint at the top before I gave it a twirl..

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#13 1 year ago

Here is where I am at as of today. 4-16-19 .. I added the first blue stencil to the head. I think it really came out good. I need to go to home depot tomorrow and pick up a roll of masking paper so I can get the blue done on the cabinet as well.. then ill wait a few days before I get the red done..

there were a few minor issues with the pimp stencils but these were mostly all my issues and not the templates themselves. first the stencil is very low tack so as I was pulling up the top film, the stencil itself wanted to come off too.. maybe I didn't go slow enough or clean the area that I was laying the stencil down on enough so I will definitely do that better next time .. also the registration marks,( X ) wanted to easily come up when pulling the stencil up, so next time I will be more aware of this.. im glade I did the head first so I can do a better job on the cab but overall so far so good. you can see one minor issue where the paint got through the corner of the stencil but other than that it came out almost perfect so far.. I can touch that up later.. ASlso you will notice that the side art really makes the base coat pop.. I am happy with what it is starting to look like..
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#14 1 year ago
Quoted from Calipindave:

Looking great How did you apply the white?

all low pressure rattle cans..

#16 1 year ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

I did one of these a couple of years ago. I found that installing a playfield protector made the playfield look much nicer and eliminated ball interference from cupped inserts.
Good luck with the restore. Following your thread.

thanks.. I have been thinking about the playfield protector as well.. This is definitely something I am interested in.. do you have any pics of how it came out on your SJ?

#20 1 year ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

Why Yes. Yes I do. . .
I tried LED lights in my Sky Jump but decided that they were too bright. These pics are with the LED lights. I later replaced them with incandescent lights. These pics are with the playfield protector on.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

for some reason your pics are not showing up..
never mind i see them..

#22 1 year ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

This was my first ever attempt at a restoration. The pin was in pretty bad shape when I got it. I spent many hours troubleshooting, repairing and polishing everything. I retained almost all of the original parts except for the rubbers, flippers, pop caps, backglass and legs. I used the same apron decal that you did.
I also upgraded to a grounded power cord and ran grounding braid throughout to all of the appropriate areas/parts.

Same here, my first resto as well.. Your PF looks great. I really like the protector.. All the innards look really shiny and clean. The relays really look super shiny too. I can tell you spent a lot of time doing this. I like the apron decal. Mine looks good too.. yeah its not original but truth be told, I really felt the apron and arch needed some sprucing up to make it pop! I just couldn't get all the grime and scratches off of it like it was..

I also plan on running a grounded power cord and grounding wire .. as soon as I am done painting cab i am going to dig into the mechs and start cleaning everything up. all of my rusted parts have been soaking in evaporust for 3 days now. time to get them out tomorrow as well.

#24 1 year ago

Thanks.. BTW, Where did you buy your protector from?

1 week later
#28 1 year ago

Hi Everyone.. Im back with a update.. it took awhile because i started my 7 day hitch at work so working 12hr days for 7 days straight takes a lot out of me.. However now im off for the next 7 so its back to work I go. Full steam ahead... I feel like this thread is not only about my success while restoring this pin, but about my failures as well..I think both are equally important and serve to create a learning process for myself and anyone else who is new like me to pinball restoration.. so here we go..

After shooting the Backbox with the blue stencil i was fairly confident that i could now safely start to stencil up and shoot the blue on the cabinet as well.. so after starting the process of stencil laying I started to notice that the stencil just was not sticking to the cabinet as good as I had hoped for..so as I started to peel back the top film to reveal the actual stencil, the whole stencil started to lift and move as well as stretch.. At first I thought it was something I was doing wrong, so I started to pull slower and use smaller pulls at a angle downward, careful not to pull the entire stencil at once. this helped a little but it just didn't tack to the cabinet well.. But somehow I made it work and got both sides laid down.. it was decent but I was really worried about shooting now because there were so many little pockets where the stencil was lifting.. I managed to get it where i thought it would work out and started to shoot my blue paint quickly before the stencil started to lift again.. once i finished one side i did the same thing for the other..

After shooting both sides i waited about 20 minted for the paint to dry enough and started to lift the stencil off the cabinet. As I stared pulling it up. low and behold the paint started to tear and pull as well.. it was so bad I had to stop, wait a little while longer and pull up the stencil again.. same effect.. both sides of my cabinet were now toast! It looked so bad to me I was ready to strip both sides again and start over.. well I decided to sleep on it and try and figure it out..

After looking at it the next day, my thought process was to try and clean it up my using a few different methods of paint remover and to repaint the really bad parts and the jagged edges from where the paint pulled up.. this took me almost about a whole week after work, just doing fine detail work and small section repaints where I could. I am no artist by any means, but somehow as you will see in these pics the blue stencil started to look like I could actually pull this off..

After all this was done I decided to start shooting the red stencil on the head, figuring I woulds start small again since I just had a major failure. Thinking that maybe my cabinet just was not clean enough before laying the stencil the last time, i cleaned the head really well.. As I started to lay down the red stencil it started to lift again.. this time it just wouldn't even tack to the head at all.. OK Now im just confused because I have not heard of this happening to anyone else.. I shot off a email to Jeff to ask him if he knew what could be wrong.. He asked me to give him a call and the first thing he asked was what type of paint I was using.. the second question was " was I using a gloss or a semi gloss"? I told him that I was using a matte finish and he immediately pointed me back to his instructions where it says to use a gloss or semi gloss. His answer to me was that his stencils will not stick to a matte paint..Its like tape trying to stick to sandpaper.. Well after discussing with him for a bit I decided that short of me redoing the entire cabinet again, I would clear coat what I have already to give the next stencil something to adhere too.. which is where I am at now.. so here are a few pics of the process and where I am today.. this is before the clear coat..

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#29 1 year ago

After doing a lot of research about clear coat I decided to try Benjamin Moore Stay Clear, as this product was recommended to me in my other thread asking about clear coat products.. I knew I wanted to stay with a water based acrylic as I think it would have the least chance of reacting with the paint already laid down, and the fast dry times was something I really wanted and the non yellowing was formula was what I was after as well. .. Unfortunately I could not find this product around my area and would have to have it shipped. So more research led me to Minwax Polycrylic. https://www.minwax.com/wood-products/clear-protective-finishes/interior/minwax-polycrylic-protective-finish

Went to Lowes this morning picked up a quart and decided to give it a try.. Tested on some test wood first that was painted and it seemed to work no problem.. well, three coats later this is where I am at.. I think it came out pretty good.,. hopefully I will be ready to lay my red stencil by Saturday..

I know its hard to tell in the pics but the cabinet now has a nice semi glossy sheen too it.. I will try and take better pics tomorrow..

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#30 1 year ago

By the way, if anyone is interested, this was my weapon of choice when removing all the over spray and paint drips from the blue stencil spray.. these little makeup removers are awesome.. they are little absorbent foamy things on the tips.. not like a cotton swab.. so dipping in a little Goof Off I was really able to get into the fine details and clean up as best as I would be able to.. I got these off of amazon..

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#33 1 year ago
Quoted from lowbeau67:

Can you provide a link. For swabs.Thank you.

here you go.. a little pricy but you get 100 of them and they work great.

amazon.com link »

#34 1 year ago
Quoted from jasonspoint28:

Thanks for sharing your progress and the challenges you have faced. Keep up the good work!

thanks for the encouraging words, I know it can be a bit wordy, TL:DR, but I felt it important to be specific about the issues that I have had..

#36 1 year ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

Looks like it's coming along well. Fantastic work and troubleshooting!

thanks.. the real test will be doing the red part because of the problems I had had with the blue stencil sticking down and having to lay down a clear coat over the blue, i have now lost all the registration marks.. so getting the red lined up perfectly will probably be a challenge.. Hopefully it wont be impossible..

#37 1 year ago

Decided to shoot the red today on the head over the clear coat. it seemed pretty damn hard so i figured what the hell.. I was worried how a oil based paint product would react when wet on top of a water based clear, so I did a few tests on some scrap wood... it seemed OK to me..

Regarding my previous issue with the stencil not sticking to my flat paint, well the clear coat completely solved the issue.. the stencils stuck perfectly.. unfortunately without the registration markings it was a little pain to get it all lined up.. while not perfect im calling this a win.. will shoot the cab maybe tomorrow.. more pics to follow..

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#38 1 year ago

Well, here it is.. today I finished shooting the red on the lower cabinet. As you will see from the pics I had a few challenges ahead of me with regards to the stencils.. ( not the stencils fault but my own ignorance as this is my first pinball restore) As you can see because of my mistakes when shooting the blue stencil ( you can read about above) I had no registration marks to go with to line everything up for the red part.. So I decided to make life easier I would split the stencil into two or three parts and apply each on its own to make it easier to line everything up. Well for the most part it worked out really well. Here are the three parts ready to be applied..IMG_5722 (resized).JPG IMG_5717 (resized).JPG Lining up the arm with the blue wrist worked out only because it was its own piece so it was easy to line up..IMG_5718 (resized).JPG Once it was all down I removed all the backings and made some modifications with tape to cover parts that were missed due to the misalignment.. as you can see below the little red helmet piece was way off on one side of the cabinet so I had to remove this part and replace it.. not so bad really.. IMG_5729 (resized).JPGIMG_5730 (resized).JPGIMG_5731 (resized).JPG Once all the clean up was done I covered all the other areas that needed to be covered and I was ready to go.. this all took about an hour or so.. IMG_5732 (resized).JPGIMG_5733 (resized).JPG Outside we go.. It was a beautiful morning with little to no wind so I figured I might as well take advantage of it now..IMG_5734 (resized).JPG Ok red is done.. gonna wait about 20 minutes or so for the paint to set before I remove the stencil. IMG_5735 (resized).JPGIMG_5736 (resized).JPGIMG_5737 (resized).JPGIMG_5738 (resized).JPG I used about 1.5 cans of spray paint. which was about three coats on all sides.. Ok now lets see what we got.. here we go.. Tada!!!IMG_5740 (resized).JPGIMG_5739 (resized).JPGIMG_5741 (resized).JPG
IMG_5742 (resized).JPG Ok time to disect, here you can see a few miss alignment issues.. you will notice the balloon strings dont quite line up on one side.. IMG_5743 (resized).JPG The pants legs on one side of the cab need to be filled in.. that was easy with a little scotch tape and a brush and some paint in a cup.. IMG_5745 (resized).JPGIMG_5751 (resized).JPGIMG_5752 (resized).JPG next I had to fix the helmet issue as you can see.. the arm is misaligned.. Not to hard of a fix with some foam swaps and paint remover.. not perfect but it will work fine..IMG_5744 (resized).JPG IMG_5750 (resized).JPGIMG_5755 (resized).JPG Overall im very very happy so far.. while far from a museum quality paint job, I think this will be something that will easily fit into my game room and I can be proud of.. Gonna let this all dry a day or so and then apply the clear coat.. more updates soon..IMG_5756 (resized).JPG IMG_5757 (resized).JPG
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#41 1 year ago

thank you very much..

#43 1 year ago

here she is in all her Sky Jump glory! Last 3 coats of clear over the red done.. Thats about it for the cabinet restore.. Now on to all the rest of the machine!
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#45 1 year ago

Looking at your pics I definitely see what you mean.. Looking closely at a factory painted cab you would not think there would be so many little things that dont line up.. etc.,. but you have to remember that this took me weeks to do, ( and its not even close to perfect, and if you looked real close at mine you could pick things out as well.. ) That factory cabinet was on a assembly line and probably completed its paint journey in a day or so by factory workers who would lay the big metal stencils on the cabinet by hand, spray and move to the next cabinet.. But I do appreciate your comment.

#47 1 year ago

I thought I would give a little update on what I have been working on with regards to my Sky Jump.. I installed the new coin door, my old one was so beat up there was no real way for me to save it and look at least half way decent.. The big problem was that I guess someone must have tried to break in to it while on route so the edges were all bent.. I guess that explains the extra holes for the security bar.. so here is the new coin door installed However I did manage to use the original coin slots and lock down receiver. just a little clean up and new 25 cent stickers and its as good as new, well not really, but its decent.. There is a few dings and dents that i cant seem to get rid of but its not too bad.....IMG_5801 (resized).JPGIMG_5802 (resized).JPG Next I decided to work on the lock down bar, chimes and back box door channel. They had a lot of corrosion and gunk on them, even after the evaporust bath I gave them a few weeks ago.. So I read somewhere that a bath of Kleenstrip will get rid of that, so I gave these parts a bath in it Then used a wire brush to scrub the gunk off. Worked well .. IMG_5779 (resized).JPGIMG_5785 (resized).JPG Ok now time for some polishing.. I was really impressed with how well the chimes turned out.. IMG_5788 (resized).JPG next on to the lockdown bar.. there is still lots of little scratches and I just cant get that mirror finish I was able to get with the chimes but all in all, this works for me.. IMG_5789 (resized).JPGIMG_5790 (resized).JPG Ok on to side rails.. these cleaned up nicely with Brasso, and scotchpads, steel wool and sandpaper.. again no mirror finish but they look so much better than before.. I also used a old blanket over the cabinet and laid the side rails on it so I had someplace to work without messing up the paint job.. IMG_5791 (resized).JPGIMG_5795 (resized).JPG Ok now to finish up the chimes unit.. I completely dissembled the unit and cleaned everything, including the coils, sleeves and all the metal.. I needed it to be worthy of those nice shiny chimes.. oh and new foam too.. IMG_5797 (resized).JPG and here it is installed. IMG_5798 (resized).JPG well I guess that is it for now.. going to try and get the side rails installed tomorrow.. Im contemplating substituting the twist nails for nice screws.. if anyone knows a good replacement screw please let me know.. stay tuned

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#50 1 year ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

Steve at Pinball Resource has new twist nails if you want to keep it authentic. I just used some to replace the side rails for a buddy's Eight
Ball Deluxe.

thanks.. I already have the new twist nails from him.. I probably will us them

#51 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinzzz:

Looking good! Where did you get the new red plastic side channels for the playfield glass?

those are original.. I just cleaned them up and they were as good as new..

#52 1 year ago

Just a few more updates today.. I decided that I needed to lock down the plastic glass channel as my staples alone were not secure enough.. So I used some Liquid Nails I had laying around.. granted I will probably never be able to get them off again in one piece but oh well, I dont ever foresee that ever being a issue.. They lasted 40 + years on there without ever being removed so if I can get another 40 + out of them then I will probably be dead my then, and if not then im pretty sure I wont care anyway.. IMG_5803 (resized).JPG then some staples just for good measure.. IMG_5806 (resized).JPG Also, after thinking about it for awhile, I decided to use screws instead of new twist nails for the side rails.. Why did I do this..? Well my reasoning was that it was easier to put on. easier to take off, other than that.. not really sure.. but I think it does look pretty good.. IMG_5812 (resized).JPGIMG_5813 (resized).JPG IMG_5805 (resized).JPG I also cut a new bottom board and clear coated it.. Next is to clean and transfer all the mechanical bits to it..IMG_5814 (resized).JPG

1 week later
#53 1 year ago

Well, after a few weeks of making small progress almost everyday, today was the big day that I decided to finish this beauty up and call it done..( almost , still a few minor things to do tomorrow)

OK I needed to start cleaning all the parts on the bottom board.. wow were they dirty.. IMG_5826 (resized).JPG also I drilled the holes in my new board.. IMG_5825 (resized).JPG All the relays, metal parts and wires look better now that I cleaned them.. IMG_5827 (resized).JPGIMG_5828 (resized).JPG Now to start swapping boardsIMG_5833 (resized).JPGIMG_5836 (resized).JPG Now I started to clean up the coin mechs.. very dirty and the coins would get stuck half the time.. I like to use this stuff pictured.. its made local and has never failed me.. doesn't gum up and is a amazing lubricant.. So after I cleaned it up I sprayed it with this and worked all the mechanics.. I can honestly say that the quarters no longer get stuck and the things worked 100% like new now.. IMG_5844 (resized).JPGIMG_5847 (resized).JPG Finished up drilling and wiring up the bottom board.. I ran a new 14ft grounded power cord as well.. IMG_5849 (resized).JPGIMG_5851 (resized).JPG Coin mechs installed, and tilt all setup with a new backboard. IMG_5853 (resized).JPG IMG_5852 (resized).JPG knocker and chimes wired up.. I added a couple of molex type connectors.. not sure why.. but I did.. might make it easy to disable if I ever wanted too.. IMG_5855 (resized).JPG Backglass back in and starting to button everything up.. IMG_5856 (resized).JPGIMG_5857 (resized).JPG one thing to note, I did remove the screws in the siderails and went back to the twist nails.. looks much better, and I removed the red cabinet protectors from the legs.. I think it looks better without these items. but thats JMO. Playfiled back in with a new PF glass, and to my surprise everything tested out 100% on the first go.. I was a bit surprised that it all worked first time without needing any real adjustments.. but TADA.. its done! IMG_5860 (resized).JPGIMG_5861 (resized).JPGIMG_5862 (resized).JPGIMG_5864 (resized).JPGIMG_5866 (resized).JPG Few minor things to do tomorrow.. clean and paint the backbox door and clean up the coin box.. maybe paint it as well.. clean the stepper unit in the backbox for the ball count. and also fix or replace the total play meter and clean some items on the playfield..

Im torn if I should get a new PF or not.. this one has wear but it is not in horrible shape.. Im still contemplating this issue.. I want to thank everyone on this site for all the info I have received along the way.. its been a fun journey, I learned a lot and for my first pin restore i think it came out pretty good.. one thing i am disappointed about is that I dont have a tumbler, so I couldn't polish up all the screws and the really tiny parts.. but im gonna get one in a few weeks to be ready for my next restore.. now to move this baby in the house and figure out whats next!

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#56 1 year ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

I disagree - you'll never be be "done". I've been there - I know.
Fantastic work! Beautiful results.

so true.. thanks!

#57 1 year ago

Thank you.. I would like to give a shout out to Pinball Pimp for his fantastic stencils.. I couldn't have done it without them., and his customer service was amazing.. When I had a issue ( my fault) he was quick to answer and offered lots of great insight..

Also, The Pinball Resource, because Steve has just about every part I needed at very reasonable prices.. Never once did I feel like something was over priced.. Steve was very helpful and was quick to ship. Im just amazed at the level of customer service I received from PBR.

#59 1 year ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

Steve is amazing. Very dedicated to oldschool - both oldschool Pinball and oldschool way of doing business.

yes I was a bit surprised.. didn't think there were any old schoolers like that anymore.. but i guess there are.. I have a local hardware store by me that doesn't even have a card machine, so if you want to use credit card they have to run it the old fashion way by making a copy of it with that 1970 era imprinter thing.. and your there for like a half hour while they do all the paper work associated with your order..) its comforting to know that that level of dedication to the old ways still exists...

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