Hello I am going to start this repair and thought before I did I would share the before pics to see what type of feedback I can get to the issues that are specific to my pin. This is my first pin and my first shop. I read the sticky's and tutorials from flippers.be. So I thought I would save the $400 to get the thing shopped and put that towards my next pin! So here is a link to the pics and please be sure to read the captions as well and let me know! Thanks!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/69703700@N06/

First off thanks for all the replies!! Now here's a status update:

@ Dr. Azzy, Blinds--check, Cliffy protectors on order, switch is working now you were correct in the alignment it was off and therefore not triggering the switch when needed. But I would like to know where I could get some more switches and the hardware (screws, bolts, etc.) for the pin. I only saw one place online that carried the switches (Witch Dr. but in the UK). Also looking for where I can pick up that reflector and socket.

@ Dr. Gonzo, I hear ya on not breaking this thing down all the way to parade rest--and I agree. However, the left turbo bumper's light is out and that is the one that goes you guessed under the ramp... GRRRR. So it looks like if I want that light I gotta get the ramp out of the way if not at least a little the whole thing. The cat switch was a broken wire!! How bizarre, soldered and gtg now.

@BR, Nice pin!

So now after getting the major pieces that were broken or degraded back up today, I found that the ripper coil or laser coil is not working. I connect a multi-meter and it showed that the coil is good and I couldn't see any compromised wires so I may need some help on troubleshooting coils. Also the magnets I don't think are working either cause when I run the test under diagnostics and put the ball in there I see no deviation from the balls trajectory. Otherwise I got in contact with cointaker and Chris is going to help me piece together a LED kit for this pin too! But definitely having a blast doing this!

Do you know where I can find Clays guide? Also I do have under diagnostics a crane switch and captive ball trigger coming up. However the crane doesn't move unless it needs to (triggered) and same goes for the left captive ball it seems to be working fine.

Also where can I find the driver or the pre-driver transistor to test? Thanks again for the help!

I've got a diode that didn't make it onto the replacement kicker and I think that is the reason why I have no flipper control and none of the coils on the right side of the playing field are now working. With that being said I did hold onto the diode but I'm a little unsure which way it needs to go if anyone has a DE pin or LAH that could tell me which way it needs to go onto the kicker coil that would be most appreciated!

BTW like the new Avatar? "Pinhead"

Hey Brotha no problem.. I'm just kicking myself for not taking a pic of it but, I thought that since the part came from Marco that they knew what they were doing when they shipped it out with no diode. For all I know maybe that's the way coils are shipped ... either way lesson learned!

Thanks TDA--In the Bay area I see. You and Cliffy get together often? I would definitely call that lucky!

I will be posting more pics up on my flicker account. My HD camera takes some awesome photos and the are almost always too large to get them into the post. I hear ya on the pin Dr. I do have one in the area but like you said rather expensive but if this fix ends up coming short of my expectations then that may be just what I'll do next.

ok so I got the diode on the ball launcher and that is not the problem either so atm I have no working flippers, almost all the coils on the right side of the PF are not responding. I started to check the fuses on the flipper board and wouldn't you know it when I took one out I heard a slight *ping* and there went one of the fuse clips. So I tried to get the old clip off don't know if it is the issue of my iron (40 watt) not getting hot enough or the type of solder being used on the PCB. But I couldn't even get the solder onto the wick nor the clip off the of the PCB. To say the least my issues have now exacerbated and I now have a new flipper board on order from BAA. If this doesn't work (which I'm not sure if it will) anyone have any idea's?

It was just one of those things it was up and working fine then it was turned off and when I turned it on again viola--issues.

ok here is a pic of the old and new flipper board, better pics are the flicker site referenced at the top of this post. But after replacing the board I still have no flipper function. I saw that when I press the left flipper button I get a LED on the board lighting up but no action. However when I press the right flipper there is no LED on the flipper board. So I took my DMM and went to the left flipper switch and tested fine but when I went to the right button it showed "short" even though the button was not depressed and I could see daylight on the switch itself it wasn't making any contact. I took the reading right from the solder points under the switch. Any thoughts I feel that I am getting closer to getting to the issue maybe it is a bad switch?

Also Big thanks to Atomicboy for all the help!

6383787409_2fc0966359_m.jpg

*Update* Left flipper working but like a machine gun when I hold down the button. Right flipper still OOC. I'm now also Blowing F5 and F8 fuses on the PPD board.

Correct. The Left flipper when I use the DMM is showing contnuity when I depress the button and is "open" when I let off. Also I see the LED light on the flipper board illuminating. The right one though without depressing the button is showing continuity. The LED though on the right flipper is not illuminating.

No the Ball launcher still isn't working nor the ripper or vuk. As for the EOS switch those are the leaf switches near the coils correct? If so I did DMM those and when closed I have continuity and when I open it no continuity.

And then there is the issue with the F5 and F8 blowing on the PPD there is 5AMP S/B on there but I will recheck and make sure that those are the correct fuses and not something a little higher like a 8A.

Also just to be double sure I could use a good pic of the ball luancher diode and which way the band needs to go.. Which makes me wonder if we had no pictures how do we know which way is common and thus the band needs to go? No rule of thumb? I do have the schematics but there is nothing that I can find for launcher.

*Update* Magnets are NOW working! I replaced the Mosfets only, as Atomic said with IRL540 Mosfets gtg there. Also I replaced the fuse clips that were weak / broken on the flipper board and the PPB and now my old flipper board is good as new and there is no rapid flipper on the left and the right flipper is working again. The other weird thing is now the ripper kicker coil is working which leaves only the ball launcher, extra ball, and the vuk coils that are not working. I am also down to only one fuse blowing on the PPB which is the F8 (PF).

When it comes to PCB repair Solder suckers rule BTW

*Update*

The whole machine is up and running again!! Between broken fuse clips and a diode that was put on backwards then shorted itself in the process only not to be tested by me when I went to solder the diode back in the correct position. Thus the now defunct diode blew my F8 fuse and the rest of the the coils on that daisy chain subsequently were no worky.

With all of the quirks outta the way (for now) I can finally concentrate on making this thing shine! I have put in an order from cointaker.com on an LED kit. Chris was real helpful in sorting out what I needed for all the lights. I also am going to replace all the drop targets and two of them that came with the kit are even re-enforced! Speaking of re-enforcement going to get some Cliffy's on order as well.

Definitely liking this new hobby! And I also want to give a big shout out to Atomic Boy!! Thanks for taking time out to help!!!!

Will be posting some vids on Youtube so stay tuned more to come!