(Topic ID: 220549)

My poor, poor Getaway :( - (RESOLVED)

By DML1001

5 years ago


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  • 48 posts
  • 18 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 years ago by DML1001
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 5 years ago

Hi everyone,

So, I seem to have really messed up my getaway

It was working absolutely fine until a few weeks ago, when I pulled out the power driver board in an attempt to diagnose some problems on my T2. I ran into some additional problems on the T2, so I gave up for the time being and went to return the power driver board to the getaway.

Well, now the machine doesn't work properly. I got the power driver board back in and reconnected everything. The machine powers on OK, the MPU board completes it's bootup sequence, and the playfield lights up as it should and begins attract mode. Also, if I press the start button, a ball is launched into the shooter lane, and I can fire it into play with the shift lever...

HOWEVER, none of the boards other than the power driver board and the MPU board seem to be working at all!

The symptoms are:
-Flippers don't work (the getaway has a fliptronics board)
-No sound, just a little hissing from the speakers during boot up
-The DMD is blank and never shows anything

My power driver board is a rotten dog board. I tested all of the test points, and they are all good. I also tested for power on the 3 boards that aren't working right (sound, DMD control board, and fliptronics), and they all seem to have power.

Next, I suspected the ribbon cable might be bad, since these 3 boards are connected to the MPU board via one ribbon cable with 4 connectors. However, replacing all of the ribbon cables with new ones didn't change anything.

I also tried disconnecting the ribbon cable and tried booting with one board connected to the MPU board at a time (for example, I just connected MPU and fliptronics, then MPU and sound, then MPU and DMD control board). However, none of the 3 boards worked when connected solo like this either.

I even grabbed a new power driver board, in case somehow the board went bad in the T2, but the behavior is exactly the same with the new board as well.

I'm currently totally stumped by this. The game WAS working fine, as of when I pulled the power driver board. I don't see anything wrong or burned out, and I double checked every fuse in the machine. Is there anything else anyone can thing of that could cause this behavior? At this point, I'm starting to wonder if the MPU board somehow went bad, but this seems absurd to me since it boots properly, controls the playfield properly, and it's a new rottendog replacement board that worked fine as of when I yanked the power driver board.

Thanks!

#2 5 years ago

If the pin worked perfectly fine, and all you did was unplug and then plug back in the power board and now multiple problems occur, then it sounds like a simple communication error. Did you:

A) Plug back everything correctly? Switched some cables around by accident perhaps?

B) Blow a fuse?

Is taking the power board out the ONLY thing that changed between working and not?

#3 5 years ago
Quoted from ThePinballCo-op:

If the pin worked perfectly fine, and all you did was unplug and then plug back in the power board and now multiple problems occur, then it sounds like a simple communication error. Did you:
A) Plug back everything correctly? Switched some cables around by accident perhaps?
B) Blow a fuse?
Is taking the power board out the ONLY thing that changed between working and not?

Thanks for the reply,

I believe everything is plugged in correctly. I've double and triple checked everything, and I got help from another pinsider who sent me detailed photos of their backbox so I could match everything up. While I can never be 100% sure of this, I have gone over this many times, and I think it's all correct. Is there anything specific you know of that could be connected incorrectly that would produce this behavior?

I tested every fuse I can see on the 5 boards in the backbox, and all have continuity and negligible resistance. Are there any others to test? I know the main fuse isn't blown since the machine mostly powers up. Is there any particular fuse that could be bad that would cause this?

To clarify exactly what happened:

-Getaway was working 100%
-T2 was experiencing multiple strange issues with power, and I suspected the power driver on T2 might be bad
-I swapped the getaway power driver into T2. The T2 issues persisted.
-I replaced the power driver board in the getaway, and had the issues described
-Now, here is the thing... I can't be certain the power driver board wasn't damaged while in the T2 machine. I never got the machine working properly, and the issues I was having on the T2 persisted.
-Because of this, I purchased a replacement rottendog power driver board for the getaway, just to eliminate that possibility. However, the problems persisted in exactly the same manner with the new power driver board.

If the original power driver board was damaged while in the T2, perhaps that caused damage to some of the other boards? I'm not really sure. There is nothing visibly damaged on them that I can see, but I'm not an expert by any means. It also seems unlikely to me that all 3 boards (fliptronics, sound, dmd control) would have been damaged, so if one board went bad I would guess the MPU?

However, if it was damaged, it was damaged in such a way that the main game functions (lights, switches, solenoids) seem to work fine. Even though the flippers don't work currently (presumably due to the fliptronics board, or a communication issue with the fliptronics board), I can manually trigger targets and the game responds appropriately, and the supercharger works.

-1
#4 5 years ago
Quoted from DML1001:

I know the main fuse isn't blown since the machine mostly powers up.

Not 100% true. Did you by any chance take the fuses out of the original power board and put them in the replacement board? If so, I'd find 6 NEW sow-blow fuses (I think it takes 6?), replace them, and restart.

#5 5 years ago
Quoted from DML1001:

-Getaway was working 100%
-T2 was experiencing multiple strange issues with power, and I suspected the power driver on T2 might be bad

If the Getaway power driver board does not have a relay and other parts populated in the top left corner, then it will not work in T2. That relay and circuit is for flipper power and enable.

Not sure if the other issues other than possible that a connector is not plugged in. Please post a picture of the current board configuration in T2 with power on.

#6 5 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

If the Getaway power driver board does not have a relay and other parts populated in the top left corner, then it will not work in T2. That relay and circuit is for flipper power and enable.
Not sure if the other issues other than possible that a connector is not plugged in. Please post a picture of the current board configuration in T2 with power on.

But does that really matter? He said he bought a new board and the Getaway still has the same issues.

#7 5 years ago

My post was mainly targeting why T2 flippers may not be currently working. More info for the OP, the better.

And yes it would matter if he was planning on leaving the Getaway power driver board in T2 if it was all working.

#8 5 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

er, and I suspected the power driver on T2 might be bad

If the Getaway power driver board does not have a relay and other parts populated in the top left corner, then it will not work in T2. That relay and circuit is for flipper power and enable.

Not sure if the other issues other than possible that a connector is not plugged in. Please post a picture of the current board configuration in T2 with power on.

Quoted from ThePinballCo-op:

Not 100% true. Did you by any chance take the fuses out of the original power board and put them in the replacement board? If so, I'd find 6 NEW sow-blow fuses (I think it takes 6?), replace them, and restart.

No, the rottendog board came with new fuses populated in it already.

#9 5 years ago

One of your ribbon cables is off 1 row, it is easy to do and hard to see.

#10 5 years ago

Please post pictures of the boards with the game on.

#11 5 years ago
Quoted from ArnieC:

One of your ribbon cables is off 1 row, it is easy to do and hard to see.

Have to agree with this. Double check the ribbon cables red stripe is on the "1" pin. And make double sure its seated correctly.

#12 5 years ago
Quoted from DML1001:

I know the main fuse isn't blown since the machine mostly powers up.

Yes, 100% true. If his line in fuse was blown he would have no power anywhere past the fuse. No booting, no lights. Probably the service outlet would work and that's it.

#13 5 years ago

Thanks for all the help so far everyone.

Here are some pictures I took of the machine powered on. I double checked & re-seated the ribbon cables again, but perhaps I still messed them up. Please let me know what you see!

I have a fair amount of experience fixing mechanical issues/resoldering, but board issues and electronic problems are still mostly out of my league.

dmd (resized).jpgdmd (resized).jpgflip (resized).jpgflip (resized).jpgmpu (resized).jpgmpu (resized).jpgoverview (resized).jpgoverview (resized).jpgpowerdriver (resized).jpgpowerdriver (resized).jpgsoundflip (resized).jpgsoundflip (resized).jpg
#14 5 years ago

Here are a few more showing some of the ribbon connections up close

20180705_154802 (resized).jpg20180705_154802 (resized).jpg20180705_154810 (resized).jpg20180705_154810 (resized).jpg20180705_154822 (resized).jpg20180705_154822 (resized).jpg
#15 5 years ago

Here is a quick description of how the machine behaves when powered up:

-I turn the main power switch on
-Power driver and MPU board light up (MPU starts with 3 lights as normal)
-Speakers make a slight hissing noise that increases in pitch over a few seconds
-D19 on the MPU board goes out, D20 starts blinking
-A few seconds later, I hear the startup 'bong' and the playfield illuminates and begins the attract mode.

At this point, the game can be started with the start button, and the trough and launch solenoids work. However, the flippers are dead, the speakers just emit occasional crackles, and the DMD is dark (but powered).

Sometimes the machine remains running indefinitely, other times it reboots in a loop after 30-40 seconds.

#16 5 years ago

Make sure the 4 connectors at the bottom left corner are in the right spots.

#17 5 years ago

This connector seems wrong or hacked.....

Getaway.jpgGetaway.jpg

#18 5 years ago

Also I’m curious why the driver board doesn’t seem to be seated properly. The center right screw doesn’t seem to be in the right place. Sometimes a connector can sneak under the board. Maybe check that again, esp the bottom ones by the GI connectors. Also that connector below j106 looks hacked.

Also check the dmd cable for tightness on the display itself, and on the display board.

#19 5 years ago
Quoted from Haggy38:

This connector seems wrong or hack.....

Nah, that’s just GI input. Would not effect anything.

#20 5 years ago
Quoted from Haggy38:

This connector seems wrong or hacked.....

It definitely looks different than mine

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19
#21 5 years ago

Is it just me, or does it look like two pins are sticking out on the right hand side of J202 in one of the photos above?

https://images.pinside.com/8/02/802cc148623ace84e13a8c0ee37add6d76d210df/resized/large/802cc148623ace84e13a8c0ee37add6d76d210df.jpg

#22 5 years ago

And mine

697E346F-75BE-4353-A369-911F902D25C6.jpeg697E346F-75BE-4353-A369-911F902D25C6.jpeg
#23 5 years ago
Quoted from Kronlar:

Is it just me, or does it look like two pins are sticking out on the right hand side of J202 in one of the photos above?
https://images.pinside.com/8/02/802cc148623ace84e13a8c0ee37add6d76d210df/resized/large/802cc148623ace84e13a8c0ee37add6d76d210df.jpg

Yes they are out of the connector, good eye!!

connector.jpgconnector.jpg
#24 5 years ago
Quoted from Haggy38:

Yes they are out of the connector, good eye!!

Whoa good eyes man!!!!!!!

#25 5 years ago

Wow, I looked at that connector many times and never saw that. It's pretty dark in there, and hard to see that spot. I'm going to address that now and see if that fixes it.

Regarding the hacked connectors, I didn't do any of this work. Many of the connectors were badly repaired or spliced together. I was looking into fixing them, but there isn't enough slack in the wires to re-crimp most of them without extending everything, or getting entirely new wiring harnesses.

#26 5 years ago

Well perhaps it’s time to invest on a good headlamp????

171E98F0-8D37-41A7-90BF-84A64EE6B5CC.jpeg171E98F0-8D37-41A7-90BF-84A64EE6B5CC.jpeg
#27 5 years ago

Back in business!

Big thanks to everyone who took the time to read this, and especially to Kronlar for spotting the issue. I must have checked that connection half a dozen times, but I didn't see the bent pins at the end.

I'm glad it was so simple, but sorry for wasting everyone's time with this. Lesson learned I guess.

Thanks again.

20180705_181343 (resized).jpg20180705_181343 (resized).jpg
#28 5 years ago

Glad to hear you machine is ok again, don't relax too much on those molex connectors though....

#29 5 years ago

Great eye spotting that!
It def had all the symptoms of ribbon cable trouble, I looked and didn't see that.

#30 5 years ago
Quoted from DML1001:

Back in business!
Big thanks to everyone who took the time to read this, and especially to Kronlar for spotting the issue. I must have checked that connection half a dozen times, but I didn't see the bent pins at the end.
I'm glad it was so simple, but sorry for wasting everyone's time with this. Lesson learned I guess.
Thanks again.

damn was hoping you couldn't fix it and i was going to offer you $1.00 for it
lol jk.

#31 5 years ago

Great. Now about T2. Let's have it. More pictures.

#32 5 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Great. Now about T2. Let's have it. More pictures.

=)

So, the last time I turned on the T2, there was a loud pop and it blew the main fuse as well as F105 on the power driver board. This happened instantly after the machine was turned on. It kind of freaked me out, and I haven't had a chance to get back to it. As soon as I have time to look at it again, I will make another thread about that machine.

It was weird, since the game was mostly working OK just prior. All I did between that powerup and the last one was unplug the ribbon cable from the DMD to the DMD control board in the backbox.

-6
#33 5 years ago

Nice Kronlar . Doing God’s work, covering for OPs incompetence

#34 5 years ago

Absolutely not a waste of anyone’s time. Everyone here learned

A) what accidentally replacing the ribbon cables off by a single row does to a game

B) that doing so won’t cause any catastrophic permanent damage to the game or it’s boards.

C) and that it’s way too easy to make that error.

#35 5 years ago
Quoted from Kronlar:

Is it just me, or does it look like two pins are sticking out on the right hand side of J202 in one of the photos above?
https://images.pinside.com/8/02/802cc148623ace84e13a8c0ee37add6d76d210df/resized/large/802cc148623ace84e13a8c0ee37add6d76d210df.jpg

Wow, great catch man!

#36 5 years ago
Quoted from DML1001:

=)
So, the last time I turned on the T2, there was a loud pop and it blew the main fuse as well as F105 on the power driver board. This happened instantly after the machine was turned on. It kind of freaked me out, and I haven't had a chance to get back to it. As soon as I have time to look at it again, I will make another thread about that machine.
It was weird, since the game was mostly working OK just prior. All I did between that powerup and the last one was unplug the ribbon cable from the DMD to the DMD control board in the backbox.

This is the type of result I see where the ribbon cable is shifted up by a whole row of pins. Best to unplug each connector of each end of the ribbon cables, to and from. Also check the short ribbon cable between the MPU and driver board.

#37 5 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

This is the type of result I see where the ribbon cable is shifted up by a whole row of pins. Best to unplug each connector of each end of the ribbon cables, to and from. Also check the short ribbon cable between the MPU and driver board.

That sounds entirely plausible. Do events like this often cause lasting damage?

I have a fuse kit for T2 on the way. I'm going to re-fuse the entire game, double check every connection in the backbox, and then I will create another thread with photos before I try powering it on.

Thanks for all your help.

#38 5 years ago
Quoted from DML1001:

That sounds entirely plausible. Do events like this often cause lasting damage?
I have a fuse kit for T2 on the way. I'm going to re-fuse the entire game, double check every connection in the backbox, and then I will create another thread with photos before I try powering it on.
Thanks for all your help.

Usually it does cause lasting damage once the ribbon cable is corrected, if that is what happened this time too. No need to change every fuse in the game. Pull out every fuse though and make sure it tests good off the board and be sure it is the correct amperage fuse and install it back.

#39 5 years ago
Quoted from Boat:

Doing God’s work, covering for OPs incompetence

Really, is that necessary?
Missing that plug by a pin doesn't really mean incompetence, but thanks for your input.

#40 5 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Usually it does cause lasting damage once the ribbon cable is corrected, if that is what happened this time too. No need to change every fuse in the game. Pull out every fuse though and make sure it tests good off the board and be sure it is the correct amperage fuse and install it back.

Agreed. Don’t replace the fuses - that may cause more confusion to resolve your current issue, and totally unnecessary.

#41 5 years ago

First rule of board diagnosis.

NEVER take a working board out of a game and test in a non working game unless you are 100% sure you fixed the issue on the playfield or otherwise.

Always better to repair the board then test in a working game or test the non working board in a game to see if the problem follows. Otherwise you risk the same damage to the working board.

Shotgunning with working boards can be a VERY costly lesson.

#42 5 years ago
Quoted from ThePinballCo-op:

If the pin worked perfectly fine, and all you did was unplug and then plug back in the power board and now multiple problems occur, then it sounds like a simple communication error. Did you:
A) Plug back everything correctly?

I've worked or assisted on dozens of machines, and the simple solution is almost always the real solution. Other guys on this thread have seen this too, as evidenced by the replies.

For what it's worth, if T2 is having the exact same issue... you know... maybe plug the other board into it and check it there too. It might be the way your plugging the cable into the game that's forcing the pins to bend.

11
#43 5 years ago
Quoted from Boat:

Nice kronlar . Doing God’s work, covering for OPs incompetence

Were you born with innate knowledge of everything you will ever touch or work on? No. We all learn by doing. For instance, you make a completely incompetent comment here... hopefully you can also learn from your mistake.

Your comment was rude. Tech threads on Pinside are normally immune from such douchebaggarry and are usually great places to learn and help. Kronlar was demonstrating the very best of this forum, and you are demonstrating the worst of it. Emoticons and emojis tacked on the end don’t change that.

#44 5 years ago
Quoted from DaveH:

Were you born with innate knowledge of everything you will ever touch or work on? No. We all learn by doing. For instance, you make a completely incompetent comment here... hopefully you can also learn from your mistake.
Your comment was rude. Tech threads on Pinside are normally immune from such douchebaggarry and are usually great places to learn and help. kronlar was demonstrating the very best of this forum, and you are demonstrating the worst of it. Emoticons and emojis tacked on the end don’t change that.

It's sad that I can only give you 1 upvote for this. Well said.

#45 5 years ago

Sorry, guys I think I was a few beers deep when I posted this. Honestly just teasing the OP. Meant in good fun but it was a poor chose of words. Glad we have a resolution.

#46 5 years ago
Quoted from DML1001:

Here are a few more showing some of the ribbon connections up close

J202 looks shifted to the left, its not centered over the silkscreen like the others and there might be 2 pins sticking out on the right.

#47 5 years ago

So back to your Getaway driver board. If it is missing the relay and the other components like in the bottom picture, the flippers will not work in T2. If it is like the -1 driver board in the top picture, it will work in both games. So if it is a -3 driver and you were planning on leaving it in T2 if it worked, you will lose time swapping the board into T2. -1 driver board (resized).png-1 driver board (resized).pngTop picture -1 WPC driver board must be used in non-fliptronix boards like T2, Gilligan's Island, Party Zone, and a few others but will work in any WPC89 or WPC-S game -3 wpc driver (resized).png-3 wpc driver (resized).png bottom picture -3 WPC driver board for fliptronix games

#48 5 years ago

Hi everyone,

In order to keep this thread on topic and relevant to anyone who may find it in the future, I made a new thread detailing the problems with my T2:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/my-poor-poor-t2-

I really appreciate everyone's help and input, and I'd ask that we continue the discussion there. I've gotten immense value from older threads on this forum when I had problems with my machine, and I want to be sure all of the T2 discussion takes place in a thread linked to that machine.

Also PinballManiac40, sorry that I was unclear, but the T2 issue was NOT a flipper problem. I've detailed it in the new thread. Only the getaway had a flipper problem. The original power driver in the T2 has a relay of course, and the rottendog boards have a solid state equivalent I believe.

Big thanks once again for the help with the getaway! The issue has now been resolved.

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