What leds are on or off on the Power driver board and the CPU board?

Unplug the game. Check all the connectors from the power cord, inside of cabinet to where it comes in, to main fuse/on off switch, to transformer.

Then to power driver board.

Be sure nothing came loose along the way.

LTG : )

And Lloyd just hit my second to do list if all the LEDs were normal.

Check each and every fuse again in the game? To confirm you did not miss any, use a schematic? I know you said you checked but sure sounds like fuse to this non-pro.

When you lose everything does the game reboot?

When you turn the game and booting the LEDs should be as follows:

201- on
202- on
203- off

Once Booted:

201- off
202- on
203- flashing

Lift the socketed chips on the cpu and press them in firmly .

after boot how many flashes on the center LED?

Blink Once - G11 ROM Failure
Blink Twice - U8 RAM Failure
Blink Three Times - G10 Security Chip Failure

Jim,

Just to be sure, which LED is flashing all the time? 202 or 203?

It's normal for 203 to flash all the time. (The bottom one of the three)

Have you checked the test points on the CPU to see if proper voltage is present? If proper 5v is there, have you tried reseating the CPU data ribbon cable that comes from the Power Driver board, or replaced with one from a working machine? I think it's J102 on WPC-95 machines...

Lets look at this, what are the LEDs doing on the power board 100 - 105?

Should be:

100 - On 12VDC Reg
101 - On 5VDC Digital / CPU
102 - On 18VDC Lamps
103 - On 12VDC Unreg
104 - On 20VDC
105 - On 50VDC Coils (will be off with coin door open)

Ok so your symptoms are specific enough to see that your CPU has booted based on the flashing of the blanking led. If it were me, I would check every fuse on the power board using a dmm. Report back with those results.

I would also suggest reseating every ribbon cable that goes to / from the CPU board on both ends and make sure they are attached with the red line on pin 1.

You could try swapping the Dmd itself with another one of your Dmd games and see if the display comes on. It sounds like there could be multiple issues. But it really feels like a CPU to other board communication issue to me. Too bad you don't have other wpc95 games to swap more parts.

I also like DeathHimself's suggestion. Please report back that data.

This is a strange problem. Usually, with power problems, there's the complete reset or a fully dead CPU rather than such a sporadic interference. Just thinking out loud here...

So, the voltages are theoretically good on the power driver according to the LEDs; however, there could still be some fluctuation in voltage from bad filter caps, etc. That might be enough to drop the 5v for the rebooting of the CPU.

On the CPU board, it would seem the LEDs are reverting back to boot up config when the die down occurs, so it is visible when the interruption is happening. Try powering down, removing all connectors except the power connector from the CPU and firing back up to see if the LEDs exhibit this behavior. If not, try replacing cables one at a time until the error occurs. This will help narrow down if you have a power issue from the power driver board or something else bogging down the system, a different cable or connector.

If the interruption occurs with just the power cable in, check for cracked solder joints on connector of CPU first, then work your way back testing and probing from the connector back through thr power driver board. If all power, solder joints and connections are within spec, there's a possibility the U9 reseat might work in this instance. At that point, it might be worth a shot, just make sure to buy the proper extraction tool.

trade ya for a working and nice NBA FB lol But dont hammer it!

Trade for a working Police Force, Jungle Lord, or Firepower 2..

Nice job answer our questions at least . Any chance you can film the resetting you see? It's hard to understand exactly what it's doing.

As for trading the game away, pinballs all break. You will need to learn to fix this stuff sooner or later. May as well be now when people are here to help.

I had an issue on my WD recently, and it boiled down to a small capacitor C2 on the driver board that had died and leaked.

It damaged a trace on the driver board between the ribbon cable(from CpU board to driver board) and pin 3 U1 and thus caused lots of probs.

Its worth a look around this area for damage!!! C2 on driver board to the right of Fuse 115

Swap out boards and cables one by one with another Bally/Williams pin.

don't do anything rash!

take a step back and breath, it is only pinball (trust me, I get the same way sometimes)

With a little help from the knowledgeable guys here I am sure you will find a fix. Just take more pics and video and we will all learn something along the way.

Most likely because we cannot see actually whats happening and all the time you put into it and time is money, why not just pull the cpu board and powerdriver board and send them to Chris Hibler for repair. If it costs you a $100 or $125 for example, you are getting back 100% operable boards that will now last. That being said its up to you but IMHO that's a better choice rather then selling it a nice hard to find machine.

Three hours of work pushed you over the edge! Don't attempt any play field swaps.

I noticed on Chris's site recently that he was focusing on his personal machines for awhile and not taking new repair work from others. Not sure if that's up to date information or not, but just FYI.

Not sure how old or new that info is, but just had a repair done by him last week, flawless as usual. If OP wants a simple PM to him and we'll know for sure, but that might be an outdated update

Have a working Goldeneye i would trade u

I'll take it for $1500, since it does sound unfixable

To OP, I second opinions of several others on here. Don't give up yet, there's always a solution -- it just takes a little longer sometimes than others. Looking forward to seeing your video over the weekend that will hopefully shine a little better light on exactly what's happening.

Is Congo even a $2,100 game working these days? Maybe. But not broken.

Yeah, that is weird it would actually work to a degree. LED 202 is power and 203 is diagnostics. It sounds like you're definitely getting a flutter in your +5v power...I really think a failing or failed filter cap could be the culprit, as it might be just enough to "flutter" the DC power enough from the Power Driver board to cause a flashing power LED. With unstable power, it's probably never getting to proper diagnostic state.

The other issue on your LED readouts is the LED103 should normally be OFF, rather than ON. This is the +18v DC lamps. What voltages are you getting at TP100, 101, 102 and 103 on the Power Driver board? It should be: ~12v, ~5v, ~18v, ~12v DC, respectively.

Sold my congo for $3,500. Not sure where you have been on this title lately

You aren't implying that on average Congo is a $3,500 game, are you?

Jalpert,
Seems you'd be hard pressed to find a working congo for under 2500.

They are out there but not too many. good luck in your hunt.

No, but you are asking if it even fetches $2,100, which is not the case in the slightest.

From what I've seen, $2,100 is a fair price for a working Congo.

Have you played Congo Jalpert? doesn't seem to be the case. This is one game that the gameplay far exceeds even some "A" titles. Of course this is just my opinion, but many are coming around to my way of thinking these days.

PM sent

Good luck with the repair. If you change your mind, I have cash in hand.

Joe

That isn't how you phrased your response though. You were questioning if $2,100 was even what they were going for. Meaning, that wasn't even close. I'm just reading what you posted