Fun project, following!

you're using corrugated cardboard and foamcore right? I'm surprised it wasnt working.. hot glue on corrugated cardboard or foamcore is a pretty crazy good bond usually..

I spent a good spent of time moving things around, yes. I had an initial idea of were I wanted stuff and adjusted, deleted, and added from there. For sure better to try and wrk as much out as possible in cardboard as foam.. adjusting mechs, Ramps, and posts after installed on a whitewood is much more of a pain although probably unavoidable in some cases.

Lol my ‘fame’ proceeds me I guess — thanks! After 3 years in I can say there’s a part of me that wishes I hadn’t bitten quite so much off my first time around.. which is part of why I am really digging your mini pin— I wish I had done something similar before starting fight club. Really enjoyed that foam core process and batting the ball around personally - seems like the complexity just continues to multiply from there

Keep up the good work, I’m stoked to see how this shapes up!

I think you’ve got a fair point with the smaller ball and mini scale, smaller tweaks yield larger results than if it were full scale. I’d agree from your video, the flipper gap looks a bit wide possibly.

Nice job in the rails! I would have suggested brass rails and brazing with a blowtorch but looks like u got it handled with the stainless. Curious to see how the solder joints hold up

I hear ya on the vacation- I took the week off too but didn’t get as much done as wanted and now almost back to the regular routine sigh

I like that little solenoid, that’s fun for the VUK

I was about to say exactly what toyotaboy just said after reading your post — this project is perfect for 3D printing. I was trying to make stuff with cardboard and wood and it was getting to be a pain. toyotaboy helped me out immensely and I was convinced to buy a printer. I’ll never look back.. it’s running all day most days right now.. as fun as it was to try to find parts that work/fit in places and modify them, the satisfaction to just model exactly what you need, tweak it, and then be able to reproduce another or modify later is really really nice.

That said, you may not quite be at that point but it’s really worth it to go down the rabbit hole

Oh yeah, that tube is ‘corrugated’ on the inside isn’t it? You want something smooth and more rigid. A 3D print it great, but you can do this pretty easy with a few pieces of cardboard and hot glue, should hold up fine.

Cut the vuk shape out of 2 sides, then the ‘top’ piece bends to their shape.

That, or another option is PVC pipe and a hacksaw easy to put together and cut to length. I almost tried it on mine, but ended up with cardboard for ramps and a vuk fir prototyping

PLA is great, it should hold up for most purposes just fine. Just don't expect to print a coil-stop and or something that will repeatedly take that kind of impact But you can model stuff beefed up in areas and control the print infill (for example, the top of the VUK). I got the ender3 on Toyota Boy's recommendation and have been super happy with it. It's running constantly these days for ramps, switch brackets, and some playfield models.

PETG was a PITA to try to get printing w/out stringing issues. I finally gave up. At the time, I didn't realize it was also toxic to breath when printing. Now that I know that, I probably wont try again anytime soon as I print in my home office w/out an enclosure.

yes! He knows his stuff!

Love the replacement ramp, that’s fun

Any idea why they are rejecting? Too tight a turn to make the loop?

I’ve also dremeled off the sides of those slim ones fir my game, pretty easy. I’m sure you could just them down to 0.8 or 0.75” tall

Man that ball rockets around that mini orbit! Love it!

Build skypilots rotisserie— it’s like $50 of parts and an hour or two to build. Makes homebrew dev life nice

I’d put the fast blo on the other side of the 24v. As drawn the current would run thru the two fuses essentially in series so you have a fuse protecting a fuse.

Lol edit— beat by 13 seconds, except we have different opinions on that fast blo placement

I think the fast blo on the 5v was fine as you had it, don’t expect those loads to spike current draw too much when they come on. The other one, that is true.. perhaps better to fuse the source of the 24v, so fusing at the 120v side.. that is what I’m picturing. I’m not sure if what you drew as “24v” is the power supply or just a label for the 1-line?

Over voltage is not the same as over current. Over voltage protection would either be protection of internal components from high voltage spikes on input or controlling output voltage — I’d assume the former as voltage output is usually ‘regulated’ +- a percentage, not ‘protected’.

Over current protection is the fusing- if a supply had one I’d expect a resettable one. My supplies def. do not have them.

Ah, I see.. interesting. Probably fine then. I err cautious with homebrew. Anything you plug into the wall like that, technically protected by the breaker anyway. No idea what the overload or short circuit protection looks like on something like that, but whatever they used is going to have some rating. If you overcurrent past that and destroy the supply, your next backup is the breaker. a fuse between the supply and breaker could protect the supply from frying and your relying on appropriately sized protection ..5a vs your 20a breaker.

I think you got a fine setup w/out it - I didn’t realize you were using a wall wort style vs the metal caged ones where you could short against the cage potentially.

It’s not the second production machine after punny factory? Worst teaser videos ever. Not the first time he’s ripped off other peoples work in the videos w/out credit.