(Topic ID: 282116)

My mini homebrew -- updates and advice

By Nokoro

3 years ago


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  • Latest reply 2 years ago by Nokoro
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    There are 310 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 7.
    #101 3 years ago

    Just out of curiosity, what brand and model of 3D printer do you all have? It is becoming increasingly clear to me that in order to effectively move this project forward, I will need one at some point. And, that point may be coming sooner than I realized. The Ender 3 seems like a good low budget one. But, it also seems that if I pay a little more, I can get one with an enclosure and some self-balancing features. I may be willing to do that. I have cats, and I don't want them bothering the prints. I know you can get an enclosure for the Ender, but that just adds to the cost. I also know that people make their own enclosures, but I don't want to tackle an added project right now.

    Also, it seems like PLA may be the best choice of polymer for printing, as it is the least toxic (perhaps non-toxic), and I don't have a great place to put the printer where there is a lot of ventilation. I assume PLA is perfectly acceptable for the types of prints I would be doing, is that right?

    #102 3 years ago

    PLA is great, it should hold up for most purposes just fine. Just don't expect to print a coil-stop and or something that will repeatedly take that kind of impact But you can model stuff beefed up in areas and control the print infill (for example, the top of the VUK). I got the ender3 on Toyota Boy's recommendation and have been super happy with it. It's running constantly these days for ramps, switch brackets, and some playfield models.

    #103 3 years ago

    I've got a cheap Anycubic Mega S. Been using PLA, and it's held up fine so far most of the time (just one casualty so far). A lot of people use PETG but I haven't had any luck with it yet. Maybe just got a bad spool though

    #104 3 years ago

    PETG was a PITA to try to get printing w/out stringing issues. I finally gave up. At the time, I didn't realize it was also toxic to breath when printing. Now that I know that, I probably wont try again anytime soon as I print in my home office w/out an enclosure.

    #105 3 years ago
    Quoted from Nokoro:

    I should have listened from the get go rather than try that funnel tube. This got it to work

    I would have used thinner cardboard, especially at your scale (think office folder).. but it sounds like you're going to plunge into 3d printing which is good.

    Ender3 is a great, simple, easy to build printer. Are there better printers that are more expensive? Sure, but it's huge diminishing returns. I've owned a prusa, great printer, not sure it's worth 3-4 times the cost. I owned three ender 3's, decided maybe 6 months ago to upgrade them all to the anycubic mega S after I had issues after I upgraded my boards (Chuck from spooky owns five of them).

    Ender 3 will need a PEI sheet almost right away. The buildtak sheet they use is crap. The wheels work for the 3-axis is fine, but know as they wear you may have to re-adjust the tension on them because they literally hug the aluminum rails.

    Anycubic: little pricier (maybe $100 more), but it adds a textured glass bed that lasts forever, filament runout sensor, touch screen, and more importantly linear rails spread apart (so you don't get teetering).

    Of any chinese printer, I highly suggest upgrading the cooling fan. If you don't care if it prints a little slower, it's fine. I like printing at 5,000mm/min.

    As far as an enclosure, don't let that dictate your printing choice. If you have no skills I got you covered:
    https://www.instructables.com/3d-Printer-Enclosure-from-Upcycled-Furniture/

    Don't let that scare you, you do NOT have to be that fancy. At the very least buy the 2 cheap Ikea tables, go to your home depot and have THEM cut some 1/2 plywood to size (I can help with dimensions). You can literally screw that wood to 3 sides, and then the front side just tape a piece of cardboard that you can lift. I would suggest some sort of lamp inside. you do not need an enclosure (especially with PLA), but it's always a good idea to keep it enclosed (especially if you have cats).

    #106 3 years ago

    Thanks guys for all the advice and input. After doing some research, I’m thinking about this one:

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TJG431N/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_MvB.Fb5GRW9HK

    It is a little pricier than the ender 3, but it is fully assembled and enclosed. Also, based on some research, people seem pretty happy with it and it’s software. The printing area is a bit smaller than the ender at 6” cubed. However, that should be large enough for most prints. It won’t be large enough if I want to print ramps, but I assume I can do those in parts and attach them together in some way, correct?

    toyotaboy I hear you about the ender and the ability to make my own enclosure. I just don’t want to get sidetracked and am willing to pay a little more for one that has a bit less hassle to get started.

    #107 3 years ago
    Quoted from Nokoro:

    Thanks guys for all the advice and input. After doing some research, I’m thinking about this one:
    amazon.com link »
    It is a little pricier than the ender 3, but it is fully assembled and enclosed. Also, based on some research, people seem pretty happy with it and it’s software. The printing area is a bit smaller than the ender at 6” cubed. However, that should be large enough for most prints. It won’t be large enough if I want to print ramps, but I assume I can do those in parts and attach them together in some way, correct?
    toyotaboy I hear you about the ender and the ability to make my own enclosure. I just don’t want to get sidetracked and am willing to pay a little more for one that has a bit less hassle to get started.

    Ugh, don't buy that. It's a flashforge clone which is only supported on one side of the bed (design flaw). When I owned one it printed ok for a year then started to give horrible fish scale and I got rid of it. You could buy an ender3 and a separate enclosure for less.
    https://www.amazon.com/Comgrow-Creality-Ender-Aluminum-220x220x250mm/dp/B07BR3F9N6/ref=sr_1_2_sspa

    https://www.amazon.com/Creality-Enclosure-Constant-Temperature-Soundproof/dp/B082VS6XDL/ref=asc_df_B082VS6XDL/

    assembly of the ender3 really isn't that bad (took me 20-30 minutes). If that's intimidating, buy the anycubic mega s:
    https://www.amazon.com/ANYCUBIC-Printer-Updated-Extruder-Filament/dp/B08CDB8KWQ/ref=sr_1_3

    It's literally 8 screws, 3 plugs.. level the bed, start printing

    #108 3 years ago
    Quoted from toyotaboy:

    Ugh, don't buy that. It's a flashforge clone which is only supported on one side of the bed (design flaw). When I owned one it printed ok for a year then started to give horrible fish scale and I got rid of it. You could buy an ender3 and a separate enclosure for less.
    amazon.com link »
    amazon.com link »

    Are you sure? The Monoprice Voxel was a flashforge clone so I steered away from it. I didn’t think this one was.

    I probably should just listen to you. You were right about the VUK.

    #109 3 years ago
    Quoted from Nokoro:

    Are you sure? The Monoprice Voxel was a flashforge clone so I steered away from it. I didn’t think this one was.
    I probably should just listen to you. You were right about the VUK.

    The biggest thing you should always check is how well is a printer supported:
    Are there aftermarket mods?
    Are there spare parts?
    Aftermarket build sheets?
    Are there printer profiles for the slicer or are you going to have to hunt for one that's similar?
    Are there facebook groups and youtube channels to help you in case you run into problems? If not, you're on your own.

    #110 3 years ago

    Ok. You’re turning me around in the right direction. This is why I turn to pinside.

    #111 3 years ago
    Quoted from Nokoro:

    I probably should just listen to you.

    yes! He knows his stuff!

    #112 3 years ago

    Ender 3 ordered! Thanks for keeping me on the right track, guys!

    #113 3 years ago
    Quoted from Nokoro:

    Ender 3 ordered! Thanks for keeping me on the right track, guys!

    good choice. if you have questions ask away. dont use the horrible manual to assemble, you are better off following along with a youtube build video.

    also if you need 3d models i can help, just need a sketch with some dimensions.

    #114 3 years ago
    Quoted from toyotaboy:

    good choice. if you have questions ask away. dont use the horrible manual to assemble, you are better off following along with a youtube build video.
    also if you need 3d models i can help, just need a sketch with some dimensions.

    Will do. Thank you! I’m going to try to play around with tinkercad this weekend to learn the basics while I wait for delivery.

    And, I may tackle soldering the second wireform . . . . which I’ve kind of been avoiding.

    #115 3 years ago
    Quoted from Nokoro:

    Will do. Thank you! I’m going to try to play around with tinkercad this weekend to learn the basics while I wait for delivery.
    And, I may tackle soldering the second wireform . . . . which I’ve kind of been avoiding.

    consider freecad

    #116 3 years ago
    Quoted from toyotaboy:

    consider freecad

    Sure. Will look into it.

    #117 3 years ago

    Been messing around with CAD programs today. I thought I would start with tinkerCAD since it seems very intuitive and user friendly. However, I quickly discovered that it is also very limited. For instance, you can only make right triangles. I wanted to try to model my slingshots since they will be small and non-active. Just triangles with a rubber ring around them. And, they won't be right triangles.

    So, once again, toyotaboy had it right, and I started learning freeCAD. It is definitely not intuitive. However, there are lots of good tutorials and videos to learn various things. I quickly was able to make this model. I need to add a groove around the edge for the rubber ring, and I haven't quite figured out how to do that yet. But, I'm still learning the tools. Once I figure that out, I'll add some holes for screws as well, which I know how to do.

    Slingshot (resized).JPGSlingshot (resized).JPG

    #118 3 years ago

    I've been using onshape. Free for public use, online, pretty powerful but I found it intuitive

    #119 3 years ago
    Quoted from zacaj:

    I've been using onshape. Free for public use, online, pretty powerful but I found it intuitive

    I tried that out a few years ago just to see how it compares. Where are you seeing free?
    https://www.onshape.com/en/pricing

    #120 3 years ago
    Quoted from Nokoro:

    Been messing around with CAD programs today. I thought I would start with tinkerCAD since it seems very intuitive and user friendly. However, I quickly discovered that it is also very limited. For instance, you can only make right triangles. I wanted to try to model my slingshots since they will be small and non-active. Just triangles with a rubber ring around them. And, they won't be right triangles.
    So, once again, toyotaboy had it right, and I started learning freeCAD. It is definitely not intuitive. However, there are lots of good tutorials and videos to learn various things. I quickly was able to make this model. I need to add a groove around the edge for the rubber ring, and I haven't quite figured out how to do that yet. But, I'm still learning the tools. Once I figure that out, I'll add some holes for screws as well, which I know how to do.
    [quoted image]

    tinkercad also tends to facet round edges horribly. I'm considering freeCAD not to model (I use solidworks) but to start tinkering around with CNC gcode. I don't want to invest in a CNC machine until I'm confident I can make toolpaths. Unfortunately I bought SW in 2017 just a year before they started offering CNC plug-in for free.

    As for your groove, I don't know how similar freecad is but if I were in solidworks I could create a plane perpendicular to a side surface, sketch my profile (round), then make a cut using the outside shape as my guide. Another way to do it would be to sketch on top, copy the outside edge, then offset that perimeter line, do a cut but also offset the cut (so it's in the middle). This will give you a square cut, but then you can just fillet the corners. If you truly get stuck with something and just need a model let me know. You can export to IGES, and I can export it back out.

    #121 3 years ago
    Quoted from toyotaboy:

    If you truly get stuck with something and just need a model let me know. You can export to IGES, and I can export it back out.

    Thanks. Appreciate it. I do want to learn this stuff. That said, the groove is driving me a bit crazy. There’s a sweep function in freecad that I think I need to use, but I can’t get it to work right. I think I did stumble on a video that will help and will try again tomorrow.

    #122 3 years ago
    Quoted from toyotaboy:

    I tried that out a few years ago just to see how it compares. Where are you seeing free?
    https://www.onshape.com/en/pricing

    "hobbyist and makers" section at the bottom

    #123 3 years ago
    Quoted from zacaj:

    "hobbyist and makers" section at the bottom

    Ah, didn't think to scroll to the bottom. Onshape is very similar to solidworks / fusion360 which is pretty amazing for a browser based parametric modeler. They have some odd EULA rules that basically say anything you model they own the rights to (at least the free versions). Not an issue if you're just tinkering making pinball models, but I could see someone modeling something significant and not owning it.

    "free" programs with subscription based versions always worry me because at some point they start yanking features (or the software completely like solidworks did to draftsight last year). If you don't care about that and just want the experience of learning parametric modeling in general it doesn't matter, but don't expect it to be free forever. Nice thing about freecad is it's open source so it should technically stay free forever.

    #124 3 years ago

    Just signed up for onshape. The interface itself just seems like a huge improvement over freecad. Will try to start learning it tomorrow. Good excuse to keep procrastinating from making my second wireform.

    #125 3 years ago

    Yeah, I'd definitely prefer a bit better eula, but for now I'm fine with that.. The interface is very similar to solid works which I think is the best. Fusion 360 had a free version too, but I never used it since I don't like the interface. Lucked out since now they've started removing a ton of features from the free version, just like you said. I've been using on shape for three years now and nothing yet. Performance isn't as good, being on a browser and all, but for modeling simple parts for 3d printing it's fine. I'd love a good actually affordable tool I could buy or subscribe to but nothing seems to exist

    #126 3 years ago
    Quoted from zacaj:

    I'd love a good actually affordable tool I could buy or subscribe to but nothing seems to exist

    Haven't tried this (I paid for the full version of solidworks 4 years ago), but I got this tip from a 3d printing facebook group. If you become a member of experimental aircraft association for $45 a year, you get a student version of solidworks for free:
    http://eaa.org/eaa/eaa-membership/eaa-member-benefits/solidworks-resource-center

    #127 3 years ago
    Quoted from toyotaboy:

    Haven't tried this (I paid for the full version of solidworks 4 years ago), but I got this tip from a 3d printing facebook group. If you become a member of experimental aircraft association for $45 a year, you get a student version of solidworks for free:
    http://eaa.org/eaa/eaa-membership/eaa-member-benefits/solidworks-resource-center

    Cool I'll have to try that out. I used solidworks a bit in college and it was great. I'd happily pay hundreds of dollars a year for it, to be honest, but they only seem to have enterprise level pricing unless you're a student (or apparently, member of a random organization like this)

    One other thing to be wary of, op: you can't really migrate parts between cad tools. Everyone uses their own formats for everything. Learned that the hard way when my solidworks trial ran out after I'd spent a month working in it. You can get the 'solid' shapes of the parts you've made into other tools fine, but you can't edit the parameters or anything after that. I now focus a lot of making lots of smaller, simpler parts vs massive assemblies so that if I need to switch tools, hopefully many parts don't need modification again, or can be simply recreated

    #128 3 years ago
    Quoted from zacaj:

    Cool I'll have to try that out. I used solidworks a bit in college and it was great. I'd happily pay hundreds of dollars a year for it, to be honest, but they only seem to have enterprise level pricing unless you're a student (or apparently, member of a random organization like this)
    One other thing to be wary of, op: you can't really migrate parts between cad tools. Everyone uses their own formats for everything. Learned that the hard way when my solidworks trial ran out after I'd spent a month working in it. You can get the 'solid' shapes of the parts you've made into other tools fine, but you can't edit the parameters or anything after that. I now focus a lot of making lots of smaller, simpler parts vs massive assemblies so that if I need to switch tools, hopefully many parts don't need modification again, or can be simply recreated

    Yea fusion360 used to let you import solidworks like a year ago, then they killed that off (assuming a lot of people paying for solidworks were just downloading fusion for free and pulling in their library). Besides not being able to switch between programs (unless like you say you export as solid shapes, or as we like to call them "dummy models"), every single time you upgrade to the latest solidworks (and you re-save your model), you can't load that model from an earlier version.

    Solidworks tends to be the standard however. Just look at the 3d models on pinballmakers:
    https://pinballmakers.com/wiki/index.php?title=Files_Section

    For sure Stern has moved over to solidworks for a while now.

    #129 3 years ago

    Woo hoo!

    Thanks, zacaj ! Onshape to the rescue! Much, much, much easier to use.

    Slingshot2 (resized).JPGSlingshot2 (resized).JPG

    Slingshot3 (resized).JPGSlingshot3 (resized).JPG

    Slingshot4 (resized).JPGSlingshot4 (resized).JPG

    #130 3 years ago

    Nice, you're already way ahead of the curve. When you do get your printer I would think about downloading some of the files from pinballmakers.com, solidworks should import into onshape. While in there you can export out to STL (you can do the scaling in your slicer).

    #131 3 years ago

    VUK bracket for my little solenoid.

    VUK Bracket 1 (resized).JPGVUK Bracket 1 (resized).JPG
    VUK Bracket 2 (resized).JPGVUK Bracket 2 (resized).JPG

    1 week later
    #132 3 years ago

    Set up my 3D printer this weekend and have been trying to print my mini slingshot. Turns out 7th times the charm thanks to some spot on advice from toyotaboy

    CD9FC0E2-EACD-4741-879D-5B1F136931C5 (resized).jpegCD9FC0E2-EACD-4741-879D-5B1F136931C5 (resized).jpeg

    #133 3 years ago

    This weekend, I adjusted everything -- the size of my lanes, a bit of the geometry, etc. I also added the stationary slingshots. Overall, it shoots better with fewer cheap drains down the sides. I still think my flipper gap is too large, but we'll save that for down the road.

    IMG_1720 (resized).JPGIMG_1720 (resized).JPG

    I needed to adjust the curve of my return rail from the right ramp. I 3D printed some tools using the theory that they would keep the rails separated evenly while I twisted and perhaps not dislodge the cross pieces. Unfortunately, I did in fact dislodge a cross piece so that will have to be fixed down the road when I work on these again.

    IMG_1721 (resized).JPGIMG_1721 (resized).JPG

    I also 3D printed the coil bracket for my VUK. This one took many attempts to get right.

    IMG_1722 (resized).JPGIMG_1722 (resized).JPG
    IMG_1723 (resized).JPGIMG_1723 (resized).JPG

    Even now, it is only 90%, but that is probably good enough. I continue to get a few layers that don't bond together perfectly. You can see that in this picture towards the top.

    IMG_1724 (resized).JPGIMG_1724 (resized).JPG

    I really think it has to be my slicer settings rather than something wrong with my Ender mechanically. I printed the dog model that came pre-loaded on the SD card that came with the Ender, and it printed perfectly. That was pre-sliced.

    I've tried upping the extruder temperature, lowering the fan, lowering print speed, etc. What worked the best was increasing the number of layers for my walls, but even then, I still get these lines. Perhaps I need to increase that even further. I'm still getting used to 3D printing, but this one thing has me the most frustrated. I just haven't been able to nail the setting that is causing this. I tried making a small test model -- just a small, vertical wall -- that I could print and try multiple settings until it works. That way I would have results in an hour instead of waiting the 5 hours it takes me to print the bracket. However, just my luck, the test "wall" printed perfectly the first time on settings that don't seem to work for the bracket, despite it being the same thickness. I'm going to try a few other things and then try to post in some online forums for help.

    #134 3 years ago

    The 3d printer REALLY has advanced this project a lot. As for the layers, I wonder if you got some bad filament. Some filament is just crap, some filament absorbs too much moisture (sometimes you can save it if you dry it out). I know you probably don't have a lot of spools yet, but I have a lot to store so I have a rubber sealed plastic storage bin (pick it up at almost any store like walmart), and then buy one of these to absorb the moisture:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H0XFCS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

    It's simply a container of silica gel that changes color when it gets too moist. When it does, you plug it in the wall for 6-8 hours (has built in heater), and it's good to go again.

    #135 3 years ago
    Quoted from toyotaboy:

    The 3d printer REALLY has advanced this project a lot. As for the layers, I wonder if you got some bad filament. Some filament is just crap, some filament absorbs too much moisture (sometimes you can save it if you dry it out). I know you probably don't have a lot of spools yet, but I have a lot to store so I have a rubber sealed plastic storage bin (pick it up at almost any store like walmart), and then buy one of these to absorb the moisture:
    amazon.com link »
    It's simply a container of silica gel that changes color when it gets too moist. When it does, you plug it in the wall for 6-8 hours (has built in heater), and it's good to go again.

    It's a good thought. I was wondering about the filament. It's Ender branded filament.

    I did buy a second spool of grey Sunlu PLA, as I heard that was a good brand, so I can try that when I get a chance.

    If the filament is bad, however, I wonder why the pre-sliced dog model that came with the SD card printed so perfectly?

    #136 3 years ago

    what sort of layer thickness are you trying? I usually get slight errors when using 0.2mm, but 0.15 or 0.1 work okay. My 3d printer has also had a few weird minor issues like this that I've been trying to figure out (the biggest remaining being that sometimes the very outermost layer of wall doesn't quite adhere to the rest) but usually they aren't issues that effect the functionality much

    #137 3 years ago
    Quoted from zacaj:

    what sort of layer thickness are you trying? I usually get slight errors when using 0.2mm, but 0.15 or 0.1 work okay. My 3d printer has also had a few weird minor issues like this that I've been trying to figure out (the biggest remaining being that sometimes the very outermost layer of wall doesn't quite adhere to the rest) but usually they aren't issues that effect the functionality much

    I'm using 0.2 mm for my layer thickness. I did at one point go down to 0.16 mm, and that seemed to do a bit better. However, when I made my test wall, I went back to 0.2 to start testing from there, and that printed so perfectly, that I assumed the layer thickness wasn't the issue. But, perhaps I should go back to playing around with that.

    Separately, when you guys build your prototype playfields with cardboard ramps, what do you use to keep the ramps in place on the playfield itself? I think I mentioned, I've been using poster tack because I can easily get things in place and then later move things around. However, it doesn't stick great to everything, and some things get pushed out of place by the ball. I don't want to hot glue them directly to the playfield, as I then can't adjust things. Is there something better to use?

    #138 3 years ago
    Quoted from Nokoro:

    I'm using 0.2 mm for my layer thickness. I did at one point go down to 0.16 mm, and that seemed to do a bit better. However, when I made my test wall, I went back to 0.2 to start testing from there, and that printed so perfectly, that I assumed the layer thickness wasn't the issue. But, perhaps I should go back to playing around with that.

    it's not layer thickness, I print .25mm when I need something quick.

    Quoted from Nokoro:

    Separately, when you guys build your prototype playfields with cardboard ramps, what do you use to keep the ramps in place on the playfield itself? I think I mentioned, I've been using poster tack because I can easily get things in place and then later move things around. However, it doesn't stick great to everything, and some things get pushed out of place by the ball. I don't want to hot glue them directly to the playfield, as I then can't adjust things. Is there something better to use?

    I've put blue tape on my playfield in that area, THEN hot glued. It tends to peel off easier, and if it does rip up the tape that's easier to replace than the whole playfield.

    #139 3 years ago
    Quoted from toyotaboy:

    I've put blue tape on my playfield in that area, THEN hot glued. It tends to peel off easier, and if it does rip up the tape that's easier to replace than the whole playfield.

    Great idea. Thanks.

    #140 3 years ago

    Found this video about moisture and filament. It pretty much summarizes what’s been happening with my prints, down to the fact of being able to snap some prints in half. Though, it does seem that this guy has it worse. I guess I’ll be switching my filament out for the Sunlu brand and hope that solves things.

    #141 3 years ago

    I really love the idea of a mini pinball. There was a mini pinball on the Ben Heck show. He said, with the smaller scale, it feels very different than a fullsize pinball.
    What is your experience with the smaller form factor?

    #142 3 years ago

    also your wireramps look beautiful. When i read how you would do it, i tried to solder my brass rods as well, and it did work. Sometimes not so gread but it is doable.

    #143 3 years ago
    Quoted from stefanmader:

    I really love the idea of a mini pinball. There was a mini pinball on the Ben Heck show. He said, with the smaller scale, it feels very different than a fullsize pinball.
    What is your experience with the smaller form factor?

    Hard to say so far because I’m still optimizing things and playing on a rough prototype. It’s fast, and there seems to be less room for error. Also, so much of pinball is about nudging, and I’m not sure that will be possible with the smaller size. I mean, it will be possible, but a little slap would likely go a lot further.

    #144 3 years ago

    I reprinted my mini sling shots with new filament. Both came out nearly perfect with no layer separation. I do think my original filament was bad, so hopefully that’s now solved. I’ll try to reprint my solenoid bracket tomorrow as a final test. I also kind of like the grey color even though I haven’t settled on a final color scheme yet.

    66BE8965-F675-46D3-9854-B7B3EDAAE197 (resized).jpeg66BE8965-F675-46D3-9854-B7B3EDAAE197 (resized).jpeg

    Unfortunately, when I moved things around last weekend to optimize my lane geometry, I made one fatal flaw:

    AFDB8056-54F6-4943-B571-B137C18095CB (resized).jpegAFDB8056-54F6-4943-B571-B137C18095CB (resized).jpeg

    That wall along the back orbit can’t be flat like that. The ball sometimes gets caught up. So, today I was back at it moving stuff around. I think I have a geometry that works, but I’m sick of cardboard, poster board, and sticky tack. I’m thinking about 3D printing the lane guides and getting a more solid, permanent structure in there. I think my game is small enough that printing those guides will work. I was originally thinking of making them out of metal, but I have no welding skills. So, this seems like a decent solution. Can anyone think of any issues with doing that?

    #145 3 years ago

    I found a model for the Radish Spirit from Spirited Away and printed it. This guy’s definitely going near the VUK. ED178E71-7DDD-4BA2-8B22-7D28921645DD (resized).jpegED178E71-7DDD-4BA2-8B22-7D28921645DD (resized).jpeg

    #146 3 years ago

    you can make them out of metal without any welding; lots of different ways. for a while i 3d printed little clips that would hold a strip of metal (you slide the clips on the strip from the end). Or you can do like bally did with their shooter arches, which was take a thick metal rod, and then use a two piece plastic post with a 'lip' on each side to grasp the rod without touching the ball. For my current homebrew I made the guides all out of metal, but just using a drill and some small screws. I bent L brackets out of aluminum strips, then drilled holes in them and in a strip of stainless at the same height, and just screwed them together.

    3d printing them isn't a bad idea either though, I did that for my inlane guides and other smaller stuff where the profile was more important. The only issue is, if you want to adjust it, you'll need to print a new one. An hour or two turn around to every single guide on your playfield might limit your ability to play with the layout. with the metal to some extent you can bend it to tweak to how you like it.

    #147 3 years ago
    Quoted from zacaj:

    you can make them out of metal without any welding; lots of different ways. for a while i 3d printed little clips that would hold a strip of metal (you slide the clips on the strip from the end). Or you can do like bally did with their shooter arches, which was take a thick metal rod, and then use a two piece plastic post with a 'lip' on each side to grasp the rod without touching the ball. For my current homebrew I made the guides all out of metal, but just using a drill and some small screws. I bent L brackets out of aluminum strips, then drilled holes in them and in a strip of stainless at the same height, and just screwed them together.
    3d printing them isn't a bad idea either though, I did that for my inlane guides and other smaller stuff where the profile was more important. The only issue is, if you want to adjust it, you'll need to print a new one. An hour or two turn around to every single guide on your playfield might limit your ability to play with the layout. with the metal to some extent you can bend it to tweak to how you like it.

    Really good point about the ability to make small adjustments. I like the idea of trying to print some clips that can hold a metal strip in place. I may try that, and then once I get the dimensions, do something more permanent. Either way, I’m ready to move on from disposable materials. I need something solid that stays in place before I do more on the ramps and wire forms. Right now, every time I move something, I mess a bunch of stuff up.

    #148 3 years ago

    Anyone have decent experience with servo motors? Here’s my idea for the middle orbit. I’ll have two motors at each entrance which control arms that will either block a set of three targets, block the orbit itself, or stay open, all depending upon what’s going on. For instance, my idea is that they initially block the orbit. You then open the orbit by hitting all three targets. I could even just close one end of the orbit to make a ball lock.

    My question is whether the force of the ball will move the servo motor itself and thus move the arms? Is this just a matter of getting the right motors? Also, if it does move the arms, will that create short bursts of electrical current that could damage stuff?

    I could probably block the movement of the arms physically in at least one direction, but harder to do both directions.

    8D3B38E9-CBDE-40C1-A850-E0473F7506DF (resized).jpeg8D3B38E9-CBDE-40C1-A850-E0473F7506DF (resized).jpeg

    #149 3 years ago

    Because of the gearing inside servos, they're pretty decent at holding position. As for controlling them, it's not going to be simple. They are based on data defining the rotation. Normally you would use an arduino to set positions (using a potentiometer to figure out what the values need to be), but I did find this handy simplistic device normally used for cosplay where you can dial in the position of each switch position:

    That one is only 2 position, but he sells a 3 position (use the dropdown menu)
    https://www.freewebstore.org/heyok-performance/Servo_Positioner/p1742582_18227999.aspx

    #150 3 years ago
    Quoted from toyotaboy:

    Because of the gearing inside servos, they're pretty decent at holding position. As for controlling them, it's not going to be simple. They are based on data defining the rotation. Normally you would use an arduino to set positions (using a potentiometer to figure out what the values need to be), but I did find this handy simplistic device normally used for cosplay where you can dial in the position of each switch position:
    That one is only 2 position.. there has to be a 3 position version.

    Thanks. I’ll be using an arduino. If I remembered correctly, there’s a great library to control servo motors. You basically just set the angle you want, and that’s it. I’m fairly confident on the programming part. I wasn’t so sure on the stability of a motor that repeatedly takes a force.

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