Rather than make a thread for every thing I need to ask, I assume it would be preferred to keep it in one. If not, I'm happy to break into multiple threads.

A friend of mine picked up a James Bond 007 machine, and asked me to get it working so that she could give it to her husband as a birthday present. It's in pretty rough shape cosmetically (back glass is super crazed, playfield paint is cracked and some missing), but so far the actual workings don't seem terrible. My job is to make it function, not to make it look pretty, so no problem.

I've been reading the System 80 tutorials and following a lot of the advice there. So far I've swapped out the orange cap for a 10000uF 25V of slightly younger vintage, and plan to upgrade to a known new one in the near future. The AC ripple dropped from 400+ mV to 200mV, so it's definitely better. I've also added the additional grounds that connect the CPU, driver, and power supply boards to each other and the main ground bus.

It has been powered up and tested, and I think the majority of what needs fixed is adjustments to switch contacts and fixing flaky light bulb sockets. There are a few things I've come across that have raised questions though.

1. The 2A slow-blow fuse that powers the 3 banks of drop targets consistently pops. I've narrowed it down to the bigger solenoid that resets the 5 target bank, as the fuse survives the solenoid test with this one disconnected. The diode on the coil tests out fine, and the coil itself measures a little over 3 ohms, which is in spec. If I run the solenoid test with this one connected, I see it start to move before the fuse blows, and if I drive the coil with a power supply, the solenoid works. Any idea what is causing it to draw too much current?

2. The speaker in the bottom of the cabinet isn't hooked up to anything, and I don't see loose wires that should be connected to it. Does this just get wired in parallel with the one in the top of the cabinet? I have the schematic, but it isn't entirely clear on that.

3. One of the score VFDs isn't working. I can see an extremely faint, almost imperceptible outline of the 000000 shown when the machine powers on, and very occasionally a few segments will flicker on for a split second, but that's it. I've tried it in a different position, and the problem follows the board regardless of which connector it is plugged into. The other 4 work fine, though one is slightly dimmer than the others. I've re-soldered the connections on the back of the bad board, and the contacts look pretty good. What should I try next before giving up and getting a replacement?

4. When I run the chip test diagnostic (#20), I get a 5101 in the P1 score area, but after a few seconds it clears and I get a 99 in the status window. Is this due to a bad battery, or should I replace the 5101? The battery is not the original, but it is an older 3.6V NiCd cell. I plan to replace it next and see if this error clears entirely, but I remember reading that the machine should work without a battery, it just won't retain scores.

5. I haven't added the extra ground and power wires to the CPU/Driver harness because I don't think the pins are available anymore. Is there a modern replacement that will work?

I'm sure I'll have more questions soon enough as I dig in deeper. The deadline for fixing everything is mid-June, and I'm trying to get it done sooner so I have a few weeks to play with... I mean test it, before delivering. It's been a fun project so far!

Thanks in advance for the help!

Those are the ones used in all the single sided connectors, right?

I wasn't aware they fit the double sided one, thanks!

I was going to try that today, but now I think it's actually something else going on. When I powered it on this morning, 3 of the digits lit up as bright as any of the other displays, then they went back out after 20-30 seconds. I power cycled a few times and it happened again the same way. Nothing since then.

After watching a video of this game in action I also realized that my sound board is not quite right. I'll add that to the list

I investigated the sound board a bit today, and I think it has the wrong PROM in it. However, I have no idea which game it's from!
Did any games other than these use that sound board?

Spiderman #653, 1/80
Panthera #652, 5/80
Circus #654, 6/80
Counterforce #656, 8/80
Star Race #657, 10/80
James Bond #658, 10/80
Time Line #659, 11/80
Force II #661, 1/81
Pink Panther #664, 3/81

i listened to demo videos of each, and none of them sound like what I'm hearing on my machine.

Here's what I have. I didn't see anything resembling a game number.

soundPROM (resized).jpg

That's it!

Would that also explain why the test button works regardless of what positions the 2 dip switches are in (it's supposed to only do something if the switches are opposing)?

Here you go. Oddly enough, the same serial number sticker is on the power board.

I think I found the sound rom file, and this looks like a cross of all the compatible chips:

Signetics MMI TI Harris Raytheon AMD National Intel
------------ ------- -------- --------- -------- ------- -------- -----
TS 82S137 (60ns) 6353-1 TBP24S41 HM7643-5 29641 27S33 74S573 3625

I'm going to see if any are still available, and if my universal programmer supports them.

Sound (resized).jpg

That would be awesome, thanks. Shoot me a PM and we can work out the details.

I also posted about the machine having a second speaker in the base with no wires going to it. Was this supposed to be wired in parallel to the one in the top?

Thanks a lot, everyone (extra thanks to MarAlb for assistance with parts).

Since I hate threads where the OP solves issues and doesn't say what they are, I figured I'd post a brief update

1. My 2A fuse on the drop targets problem - While watching videos to try and identify the sound chip in my game, I saw someone give the advice to check the 6 screws holding the large transistors onto the solenoid board. Sure enough, all of mine were incredibly loose, and after tightening them I am no longer blowing this fuse. The other 2 drop target banks are also much stronger.

***2. The speaker in the bottom of the cabinet - I still haven't solved this, any advice?***

3. One of the score VFDs isn't working - I broke out the scope and it appears the UDN6118A chip that drives the digit selection is bad. I see signals coming in, but none going out. Looking for a replacment chip now to confirm this.

4. 5101 mem error that also produces a 99 on the status display - I will be replacing the 5101 and see if this is resolved. Still unsure as to why the display shows 99 at the end of the test if the 5101 is bad.

5. Extra ground and power wires to the CPU/Driver harness - I have some options now, thanks.

Thanks.

It looks like the schematic shows something similar, though it lists a A7P/J8 connector between the two speakers. This connector does exist in the head of the game, but I don't see any disconnected wires coming off of it for the lower speaker. I'm just going to run new ones and not worry about it.

The sound is a bit crackly though. I'm going to hit the volume pot with deoxit, but if that doesn't help is there another typical problem area to look at?

Another question:
Are all the lamps in this machine the same "44" style? The top of the backbox has a half dozen with spherical globes on them and I'm wondering if that was intended to be different.

Well, I've decided to go down the rabbit hole and restore the play field too.

I stripped everything off of the play field aside from the elevated guide rails and lamps/switches that protrude from below.
I then gave it a good cleaning, went over it with magic eraser, went over it again with Novus 2, then buffed everything.

Next, I'm going to level the handful of inserts that aren't sitting flush, then wipe the whole thing down with naptha and give it a light clearcoat.

After that, it's touch up paint, a few more layers of clear coat, and put it all back together. The back glass is another matter. Someone tried to mask the crazing with sloppy spray paint and I'm not sure much can be done to improve it. The play field should look great though! Here's a few shots of the work so far.

More or less intact after a simple wipe down
Plastics off
Partly cleaned
Current status

It's hard to tell from these shots, but the ME got a lot of the dirt out of the cracks in the old clearcoat, and helped to brighten some of the formerly white areas. I don't plan to go crazy with the paint restoration, but should be able to repair the most obvious damage and then clear coat the whole thing to protect it.

I have a friend helping with some of this, and he previously flattened most of the plastics, as they were wavy gravy. A few still need some work, and they all need to be polished with Novus. He also threaded all the mounting posts so we could use new 6-32 cap nuts instead of the garbage ones that were on there.

Thanks, but I think I'll be ok. The one dead one just needs a new driver chip. The Player 1 display could also stand to be brightened. Other than that they seem to be working ok.

I'm back from vacation and hoping to chase out the last of the electrical gremlins, mostly on the driver board.

Diagnostic mode step 16 is the Lamp Test, which supposedly pulses the relays and coin lockout coil, then "all controlled lamps are turned on in sequence".

I hear the relays each click on and off twice, but nothing happens for the coin lockout (it may actually be bad, haven't investigated yet), and the lamps just behave like they would in normal operation while the machine is waiting for credits. I see no sort of sequencing.

L12-L23 are listed as drop targets, and while there are no lamps for the drop targets, they do have little coils on each one that allow the CPU to individually drop each target. I can test these in game, other than the purple middle one, but nothing happens during the lamp test.

Finally, this game has 2 or 3 "spare" light circuits with nothing hooked up to them. Is there any reason why I shouldn't steal a transistor from one of these to fix a dead one on a used light circuit?

Thanks, I passed that on to see if they're interested. Shipping would likely be as much as the glass.

I'll post some updates soon, but things are progressing nicely. Here's a shot of the machine before I started working on it:
IMG950399 (resized).jpg

The back glass has been spray painted (very badly) from behind by a PO. A friend is attempting to re-create the graphics as a vector file, and we may try and make a new glass using a printed wrap.

I got a bit more history on it too. Apparently someone got it and then let it sit in their basement for ~15 years without doing anything to it. Their moron son wanted to strip out the wires and sell the copper for beer money when my friend's dad stepped in and bought it and another machine in even worse condition to save them both.

Hey All, sorry I've been quiet on this for a while. I've been busy working on the machine, and will (soon) post a big update with lots of photos. It is just about done, with the last bit being the backglass. One of my friends spent a lot of time converting the original image into a vector, and just finished it this week. Another friend works at a print shop and is going to run the job on Lexan for us today. I'd like to do it on tempered glass, but we would have missed our deadline, and I'll leave that up to the owner if they want to upgrade it.

Here's the finished artwork:
JamesBond007_vector (resized).png

One thing I haven't figured out yet is why it seems to award a replay at 280,000 pts. The apron says a replay happens at 420,000 pts and there's no dip switch setting I know of that changes this. Not a big deal, more of a curiosity.

Could you expand on this please?

Is this via the book keeping system/test switch or only with a test ROM?

Is that what the "first, second, third high score" refers to here?

Bookkeeping_test (resized).png

Resurrecting this thread because js613uy had PM'd me about the backglass, and ages later, I actually saw the PM.

When I was restoring this, my friend took the original art and put a lot of effort in to do a vector trace of it. Here's the file he created in case anyone else would like to use it to get a new backglass printed.

I forget the exact details of what I did, but I think I had it printed on clear plastic and used white contact paper on the backside to get the original look. It turned out pretty awesome.

Here's the file:
http://hillridge.net/bond/James_Bond_final.eps

20170623_085647 (resized).jpg