(Topic ID: 227260)

My Homebrew- Quidditch!

By ryan1234

5 years ago


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  • 123 posts
  • 38 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by ryan1234
  • Topic is favorited by 22 Pinsiders

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There are 123 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 3.
#1 5 years ago

I have been in the hobby for a while and I am starting to attempt to build my own...
This will be a EM style pinball with modern controls. Simple pinball for starting in to homebrew. No displays, no sound (only chimes)
I have started a white wood, and am getting ready to start ordering controls.
Would love some input from the guys who have done this already!

Here are some concerns-
1. Thinking of going with P-Roc and a Raspberry-Pi. (Not set in stone and would like to hear opinions on this)

2. Would like to go with single color white LEDs. There are no products that fit this as they all are RGB leds. Anyone have a solution for this? The RGB will look terrible in a EM style pin- IMO

3. The current “donor” pin has 24volt coils. Can the P-Roc handle this?
Any thoughts would be very appreciated! Thanks
Here is the start of my white wood.

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#2 5 years ago

PROC can handle 24v, yes. You only need to worry about the maximum current, and 24 will be lower, so.

I just hooked some plain Leds up to some shift registers and drove them fine. You could also just always use the rgb as white and it'd look okay if not quite as good.

#3 5 years ago

Team Pinball uses a Raspberry Pi in the Mafia game, I believe. It's not like you need a great deal of horsepower and a simple plug-and-play option should work best.

#4 5 years ago

Whatever you are planning for a timeframe, triple that estimate and you'll be in the ball park.

#5 5 years ago

Pure white isn't a 'natural' looking light colour for an EM. If you want to keep the period feel, I suggest using RGB LEDs and setting the colour to a slight yellow/orange tint to give more of a warm incandescent light effect.

#7 5 years ago

Very cool, Ryan. We'll all be excited to see your progress. Let us know if you need anything during your build.

Some responses inline:

Quoted from ryan1234:

1. Thinking of going with P-Roc and a Raspberry-Pi. (Not set in stone and would like to hear opinions on this)

With no displays and no large sound file, the R-Pi will be more than powerful enough. The P-ROC offloads all of the low level processing; so all that's left for the CPU is the O/S and the game rules, and it doesn't take much processing power to run pinball game rules/logic.

Quoted from ryan1234:

2. Would like to go with single color white LEDs. There are no products that fit this as they all are RGB leds. Anyone have a solution for this? The RGB will look terrible in a EM style pin- IMO

Technically RGB is a super-set of white (you can make RGBs look white by turning on all 3 channels and possibly tuning each channel value in software to deal with unbalanced LEDs), but finding white ones would save you a bunch of control channels.

Quoted from ryan1234:

3. The current “donor” pin has 24volt coils. Can the P-Roc handle this?

Our PD-16 boards are the ones that control power to the high current devices (eg. coils, magnets, motors). PD-16s can gate any DC power from 5V to 80V without issue.

- Gerry
https://www.multimorphic.com

#8 5 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

PROC can handle 24v, yes. You only need to worry about the maximum current, and 24 will be lower, so.

Thanks- I was afraid that the lower voltage would cause higher amperage.

Quoted from Eric_S:

Whatever you are planning for a timeframe, triple that estimate and you'll be in the ball park.

Hopefully be complete for TPF 2020! Maybe...

Quoted from EalaDubhSidhe:

Pure white isn't a 'natural' looking light colour for an EM. If you want to keep the period feel, I suggest using RGB LEDs and setting the colour to a slight yellow/orange tint to give more of a warm incandescent light effect.

This is a good idea!

Jwillson- your project has been a huge inspiration to me. Mine will hopefully be half as good as yours.

#9 5 years ago
Quoted from gstellenberg:

Very cool, Ryan. We'll all be excited to see your progress. Let us know if you need anything during your build.
Some responses inline:

With no displays and no large sound file, the R-Pi will be more than powerful enough. The P-ROC offloads all of the low level processing; so all that's left for the CPU is the O/S and the game rules, and it doesn't take much processing power to run pinball game rules/logic.

Technically RGB is a super-set of white (you can make RGBs look white by turning on all 3 channels and possibly tuning each channel value in software to deal with unbalanced LEDs), but finding white ones would save you a bunch of control channels.

Our PD-16 boards are the ones that control power to the high current devices (eg. coils, magnets, motors). PD-16s can gate any DC power from 5V to 80V without issue.
- Gerry
https://www.multimorphic.com

About to pull the trigger on a large order to you. Thanks Gerry

#10 5 years ago
Quoted from ryan1234:

Thanks- I was afraid that the lower voltage would cause higher amperage.

If you wanted the same power then that sort of comparison would hold, but with the resistance of the coils held constant halving the voltage will just lower the amperage (and power). Make sure you buy mechs/coils designed for 24v systems (and not 50v) so your mechs have the right power still.

#11 5 years ago

Looks like you got some good answers here, the only thing I would add is that computer wise use whatever you are comfortable with while you are building (in my case windows on an old htpc I had lying around), the software can be moved to other systems relatively easily later when you have it all working.

What are you going with software/framework wise? skeletongame and mpf are the 2 big players as this point

I look forward to following along.

#12 5 years ago
Quoted from BorgDog:

What are you going with software/framework wise? skeletongame and mpf are the 2 big players as this point
I look forward to following along.

I have know idea....
Any thoughts one way or another?
Which is easier?
I have programed many PLCs... this is all new to me- I got alot to learn.

#13 5 years ago

Pinball makers site has a pretty good overview http://pinballmakers.com/wiki/index.php/Programming

I'm using MPF for mine, because it seemed to be easier for me not being a programmer. If you know python and are comfortable using it skeletongame/pyprocgame might be a better choice, some choices may come down to what hardware you are all using (see chart on page linked above), but from the sounds of it you could do either. Either way there are good communities of support.

#14 5 years ago

+1 for MPF. It's what I am using in Spaceballs and Rick & Morty.

#15 5 years ago

Hi Ryan,

I personally would recommend you to use a more powerful PC during development. RPi will work for your finished game but it will be a pita during development. See: http://docs.missionpinball.org/en/dev/hardware/computer/index.html.

Jan

#16 5 years ago

Thanks for all the tips so far!
Here it is- getting further along.
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#17 5 years ago

Do you have a layout design you can show us?

#18 5 years ago

What are people using for power supplies?
I think I need to get the following-

5volt DC- for the P-ROC, LED driver boards(2), Coil driver boards(2), and the Raspberry Pi.

12volt DC- for the swich boards(2)

48volt DC- for 18 coils.

Does this sound right? Any thoughts?

#19 5 years ago

As a further response to the lighting issue, check out the SlingSpot thread and consider utilising a few of those.

#20 5 years ago
Quoted from ryan1234:

What are people using for power supplies?
I think I need to get the following-
5volt DC- for the P-ROC, LED driver boards(2), Coil driver boards(2), and the Raspberry Pi.
12volt DC- for the swich boards(2)
48volt DC- for 18 coils.
Does this sound right? Any thoughts?

Most are now using an ATX 5/12v computer supply or an arcade 5/12v supply for logic and switches (5 and 12 volts) and a 500 or 600W Meanwell 48v supply for coil/magnet power.

- Gerry
https://www.multimorphic.com

1 week later
#22 5 years ago

Getting further....

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#23 5 years ago

Here is a pic of the playfeild wires I did this weekend.

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#24 5 years ago

Mounted score reels.
Bonus- I blew my first fuse on this project today!

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#25 5 years ago

Playfield back in-
Need to get programming soon.

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11 months later
#26 4 years ago

How’s this going?

2 months later
#27 4 years ago

Update time.
My original layout was not very fun, so I made a new playfield. As this is a EM style pin it was easy to make another

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#28 4 years ago

Got busy programming using MPF.
I am not a great programmer, but I have stumbled through it. I also have been working on the cabinet.
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#29 4 years ago

Here is some pics of the painting. Learning a lot about stencils.

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#30 4 years ago

This project has been for my family and here is my daughter helping paint.

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#31 4 years ago

And my wife working on the stencils

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#32 4 years ago

Here is the coin door modified-
Any guesses on the theme?

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#33 4 years ago

Nice: the first Harry Potter pinball

#34 4 years ago

Seems Quidditch-related, in particular!

#35 4 years ago

Yes- it is Quidditch

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#36 4 years ago

Here is the cabinet art...

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#37 4 years ago

cool, following

12
#38 4 years ago

I got the playfield back from the printer today- very excited!!

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#39 4 years ago

Impressive! The art style choices go very well with the theme.

#40 4 years ago

The idea with this pin is it would be a pin you would find at Hogwarts student lounge.

#41 4 years ago
Quoted from ryan1234:

The idea with this pin is it would be a pin you would find at Hogwarts student lounge.

Should've gone with Viktor Krum's Pro Quiddich. The students would love that!

#42 4 years ago

Hey Ryan
Sweet pin. Bravo Zulu.
Wally

#43 4 years ago
Quoted from ryan1234:

The idea with this pin is it would be a pin you would find at Hogwarts student lounge.

Keep in mind that the dense magic in the air at Hogwarts causes a lot of electrical interference that causes most devices to malfunction. If you plan on routing the game in the wizarding world, you're going to need better grounding.

If it's still not working correctly after that, have a word with Flitwick and see if there's an appropriate variant of a Shield Charm to keep the interference away from your electronics.

#44 4 years ago
Quoted from Pahuffman:

Should've gone with Viktor Krum's Pro Quiddich. The students would love that!

Quoted from Gornkleschnitzer:

Keep in mind that the dense magic in the air at Hogwarts causes a lot of electrical interference that causes most devices to malfunction. If you plan on routing the game in the wizarding world, you're going to need better grounding.
If it's still not working correctly after that, have a word with Flitwick and see if there's an appropriate variant of a Shield Charm to keep the interference away from your electronics.

My family is loving these magical words of wisdom and great ideas. They are also calling me a muggle since I have to have most if these things explained to me.

#45 4 years ago

Put some of coats of Varathane on today.
The tough part is going to be the couple of weeks of waiting for full cure...

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#46 4 years ago

Pop bumper caps- done!

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#47 4 years ago

Getting alot done as we wait for the Playfield clear to cure.
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#48 4 years ago

Plastics back from the printer- made two sets as I tend to screw stuff up...

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#49 4 years ago

Got any more pics of that whitewood playfield assembled? Hope you can get this thing to TPF!

#50 4 years ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

Got any more pics of that whitewood playfield assembled? Hope you can get this thing to TPF!

I don’t think I will be ready for TPF...
Here is one pick of the Whitewood.
I took a lot of pics before disassemble, just none that show the whole field... I wish I would have.

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