(Topic ID: 227260)

My Homebrew


By ryan1234

1 year ago



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  • 26 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 days ago by Mbecker
  • Topic is favorited by 10 Pinsiders

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    #1 1 year ago

    I have been it the hobby for a while and I am starting to attempt to build my own...
    This will be a EM style pinball with modern controls. Simple pinball for starting in to homebrew. No displays, no sound (only chimes)
    I have started a white wood, and am getting ready to start ordering controls.
    Would love some input from the guys who have done this already!

    Here are some concerns-
    1. Thinking of going with P-Roc and a Raspberry-Pi. (Not set in stone and would like to hear opinions on this)

    2. Would like to go with single color white LEDs. There are no products that fit this as they all are RGB leds. Anyone have a solution for this? The RGB will look terrible in a EM style pin- IMO

    3. The current “donor” pin has 24volt coils. Can the P-Roc handle this?
    Any thoughts would be very appreciated! Thanks
    Here is the start of my white wood.

    17C7D841-B723-4E30-AE2D-AB6D63CDB28A (resized).jpeg

    #2 1 year ago

    PROC can handle 24v, yes. You only need to worry about the maximum current, and 24 will be lower, so.

    I just hooked some plain Leds up to some shift registers and drove them fine. You could also just always use the rgb as white and it'd look okay if not quite as good.

    #3 1 year ago

    Team Pinball uses a Raspberry Pi in the Mafia game, I believe. It's not like you need a great deal of horsepower and a simple plug-and-play option should work best.

    #4 1 year ago

    Whatever you are planning for a timeframe, triple that estimate and you'll be in the ball park.

    #5 1 year ago

    Pure white isn't a 'natural' looking light colour for an EM. If you want to keep the period feel, I suggest using RGB LEDs and setting the colour to a slight yellow/orange tint to give more of a warm incandescent light effect.

    #7 1 year ago

    Very cool, Ryan. We'll all be excited to see your progress. Let us know if you need anything during your build.

    Some responses inline:

    Quoted from ryan1234:

    1. Thinking of going with P-Roc and a Raspberry-Pi. (Not set in stone and would like to hear opinions on this)

    With no displays and no large sound file, the R-Pi will be more than powerful enough. The P-ROC offloads all of the low level processing; so all that's left for the CPU is the O/S and the game rules, and it doesn't take much processing power to run pinball game rules/logic.

    Quoted from ryan1234:

    2. Would like to go with single color white LEDs. There are no products that fit this as they all are RGB leds. Anyone have a solution for this? The RGB will look terrible in a EM style pin- IMO

    Technically RGB is a super-set of white (you can make RGBs look white by turning on all 3 channels and possibly tuning each channel value in software to deal with unbalanced LEDs), but finding white ones would save you a bunch of control channels.

    Quoted from ryan1234:

    3. The current “donor” pin has 24volt coils. Can the P-Roc handle this?

    Our PD-16 boards are the ones that control power to the high current devices (eg. coils, magnets, motors). PD-16s can gate any DC power from 5V to 80V without issue.

    - Gerry
    https://www.multimorphic.com

    #8 1 year ago
    Quoted from zacaj:

    PROC can handle 24v, yes. You only need to worry about the maximum current, and 24 will be lower, so.

    Thanks- I was afraid that the lower voltage would cause higher amperage.

    Quoted from Eric_S:

    Whatever you are planning for a timeframe, triple that estimate and you'll be in the ball park.

    Hopefully be complete for TPF 2020! Maybe...

    Quoted from EalaDubhSidhe:

    Pure white isn't a 'natural' looking light colour for an EM. If you want to keep the period feel, I suggest using RGB LEDs and setting the colour to a slight yellow/orange tint to give more of a warm incandescent light effect.

    This is a good idea!

    Jwillson- your project has been a huge inspiration to me. Mine will hopefully be half as good as yours.

    #9 1 year ago
    Quoted from gstellenberg:

    Very cool, Ryan. We'll all be excited to see your progress. Let us know if you need anything during your build.
    Some responses inline:

    With no displays and no large sound file, the R-Pi will be more than powerful enough. The P-ROC offloads all of the low level processing; so all that's left for the CPU is the O/S and the game rules, and it doesn't take much processing power to run pinball game rules/logic.

    Technically RGB is a super-set of white (you can make RGBs look white by turning on all 3 channels and possibly tuning each channel value in software to deal with unbalanced LEDs), but finding white ones would save you a bunch of control channels.

    Our PD-16 boards are the ones that control power to the high current devices (eg. coils, magnets, motors). PD-16s can gate any DC power from 5V to 80V without issue.
    - Gerry
    https://www.multimorphic.com

    About to pull the trigger on a large order to you. Thanks Gerry

    #10 1 year ago
    Quoted from ryan1234:

    Thanks- I was afraid that the lower voltage would cause higher amperage.

    If you wanted the same power then that sort of comparison would hold, but with the resistance of the coils held constant halving the voltage will just lower the amperage (and power). Make sure you buy mechs/coils designed for 24v systems (and not 50v) so your mechs have the right power still.

    #11 1 year ago

    Looks like you got some good answers here, the only thing I would add is that computer wise use whatever you are comfortable with while you are building (in my case windows on an old htpc I had lying around), the software can be moved to other systems relatively easily later when you have it all working.

    What are you going with software/framework wise? skeletongame and mpf are the 2 big players as this point

    I look forward to following along.

    #12 1 year ago
    Quoted from BorgDog:

    What are you going with software/framework wise? skeletongame and mpf are the 2 big players as this point
    I look forward to following along.

    I have know idea....
    Any thoughts one way or another?
    Which is easier?
    I have programed many PLCs... this is all new to me- I got alot to learn.

    #13 1 year ago

    Pinball makers site has a pretty good overview http://pinballmakers.com/wiki/index.php/Programming

    I'm using MPF for mine, because it seemed to be easier for me not being a programmer. If you know python and are comfortable using it skeletongame/pyprocgame might be a better choice, some choices may come down to what hardware you are all using (see chart on page linked above), but from the sounds of it you could do either. Either way there are good communities of support.

    #14 1 year ago

    +1 for MPF. It's what I am using in Spaceballs and Rick & Morty.

    #15 12 months ago

    Hi Ryan,

    I personally would recommend you to use a more powerful PC during development. RPi will work for your finished game but it will be a pita during development. See: http://docs.missionpinball.org/en/dev/hardware/computer/index.html.

    Jan

    #16 12 months ago

    Thanks for all the tips so far!
    Here it is- getting further along.
    5531388F-4147-4C5D-A41C-C26524CA13EF (resized).jpeg

    #17 12 months ago

    Do you have a layout design you can show us?

    #18 12 months ago

    What are people using for power supplies?
    I think I need to get the following-

    5volt DC- for the P-ROC, LED driver boards(2), Coil driver boards(2), and the Raspberry Pi.

    12volt DC- for the swich boards(2)

    48volt DC- for 18 coils.

    Does this sound right? Any thoughts?

    #19 12 months ago

    As a further response to the lighting issue, check out the SlingSpot thread and consider utilising a few of those.

    #20 12 months ago
    Quoted from ryan1234:

    What are people using for power supplies?
    I think I need to get the following-
    5volt DC- for the P-ROC, LED driver boards(2), Coil driver boards(2), and the Raspberry Pi.
    12volt DC- for the swich boards(2)
    48volt DC- for 18 coils.
    Does this sound right? Any thoughts?

    Most are now using an ATX 5/12v computer supply or an arcade 5/12v supply for logic and switches (5 and 12 volts) and a 500 or 600W Meanwell 48v supply for coil/magnet power.

    - Gerry
    https://www.multimorphic.com

    1 week later
    #22 11 months ago

    Getting further....

    83214F7F-4286-4579-83B0-C6EFD62B007C (resized).jpeg
    #23 11 months ago

    Here is a pic of the playfeild wires I did this weekend.

    5BC85468-F333-4C8D-9A20-73ABB7746C03 (resized).jpeg
    #24 11 months ago

    Mounted score reels.
    Bonus- I blew my first fuse on this project today!

    6C98766B-AA69-48CE-AB0F-A67879A414B6 (resized).jpeg

    #25 11 months ago

    Playfield back in-
    Need to get programming soon.

    F62D011E-A17E-4C83-8690-17B73347B186 (resized).jpeg
    11 months later
    #26 8 days ago

    How’s this going?

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