(Topic ID: 125634)

Stern Shaker - Design Update

By waldo34

9 years ago


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  • 15 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by waldo34
  • Topic is favorited by 12 Pinsiders

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    #1 9 years ago

    Design update - Using 4 in. Flat Blank Square Electrical Box Cover (.50 each at HD) and plex for the box. Pics below.

    Using Pinsider RacerRik shaker design I decided to build one for my Star Trek. First up was shopping for the motor, eBay was the place. I bought 3 for a discount (13 each with shipping). Next up was the motor holder, I used 3 Hillman 3-in x 1/4-in Metal Slotted Square Plate from Lowes ($3 each = $9). The design was pretty simple using my vice I bent over each side to form a base that I could bolt the sides to. After that I drilled a couple of holes for the motor to rest in. Finally, I used 2 bolts to tighten the top of the motor mount to ensure the motor didn’t move.

    For the wire harness I purchased 2 and 3 pin connectors from Vetco ($10 with shipping).

    For the counter weights I purchased a 12 inch Steel bar from Amazon. Enough for 3 shakers ($5 with shipping) Using a Sawzall I cut 2 inch pieces. ¼ inch drill blade and my drill press for the shaft holes and the off center taps.

    The control board, I cheated and purchased it from Pinball Life. ($30)

    Finally, my favorite part the safety case a 4x6 index card holder. $.50

    Total cost per shaker = $70

    Next up I hoping install a shaker in my Congo. Anyone know if the flasher might be able to power the shaker using the Pinball Life board?
    __________________________________
    Hot Rolled Steel Square Bar A36 3/4" x Length 12" =15 with shipping (enough for 3 shakers -= $5 each)
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0066ENB32/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

    $13 12 VOLT ELECTRIC MOTOR HC970 DOUBLE 1/4IN SHAFTS – ebay

    2 pin connectors and 3 pin = $10 with Shipping
    http://www.vetco.net/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=6854&keywords=2 Pin Molex .093 Male
    http://www.vetco.net/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=9621&gclid=CNjCw8azxsQCFUkV7Aodl2AAlQ

    The Hillman Group 3-in x 1/4-in Metal Slotted Square Plate $3 * 3 = $9 (per shaker)
    http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10151&catalogId=10051&productId=3478201&cId=detail

    Shaker Board from Pinball like ($30)
    Screws, washers, and nuts ($2.50)
    Index 4x6 index card holder ($.50)

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    #2 9 years ago

    Nice...!!!...............Joey

    #3 9 years ago

    Nicely done, kudos!

    #4 9 years ago

    Good job! How does it feel in your Star Trek?

    I ended up shorting across the 1 ohm resistor on mine to get a bit more shake. So now my control board just consists of one diode and one fuse. Played quite a few games with the resistor shorted and have had no problems.

    I just loaded the v1.61 game code on my Star Trek yesterday. Wow - what a difference! It is like a whole new game now.

    I can give you some tips on putting a shaker in your Congo. Using a flasher output is not the way to go. I would suggest using an ELK-924 relay board. Then you can tie into any signal you want to trigger the shaker.

    #5 9 years ago

    Love the shaker in Star Trek. I have had one in it before but i moved it to my Luci. Have not updated to the latest code, that's up next.

    Thanks for the tip on the ELK-924 relay board. Found a post on using it, looks like it's time for me to do some research as my quick look at the post kind of confused me.

    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/installing-a-stern-shaker-motor-in-a-williams-bally-game-dr-who

    1 week later
    #6 9 years ago

    New pics with a much better design. With the new design the shaker matches the Stern factory shaker.

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    #7 9 years ago

    Looking good, I'll be doing the same shortly to add to my Baywatch. Instead of plexi, I am going to use 4" PVC drain pipe caps to cover the weights. you can't see them when you're playing anyways. Designed the bracket in SolidWorks, going to get it made at a local fabrication shop.
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    #8 9 years ago
    Quoted from PTHermes:

    Looking good, I'll be doing the same shortly to add to my Baywatch. Instead of plexi, I am going to use 4" PVC drain pipe caps to cover the weights. you can't see them when you're playing anyways. Designed the bracket in SolidWorks, going to get it made at a local fabrication shop.
    2015-05-07_124432.jpg

    Thanks, I'm interested in the Baywatch project, one of my favorites. I saw a Baywatch listed on Pinside with a factory shaker but the seller said it was imported. Have you been able to identify a standard hookup or will you trigger the shaker a different way?

    Waldo

    #9 9 years ago

    I talked with another pinsider and was told there is an unused solenoid that works as the trigger through the standard DE/Sega/Stern pcb board with the latest roms. It will be a few weeks before I get a chance to finish it up.

    #10 9 years ago
    Quoted from waldo34:

    Next up I hoping install a shaker in my Congo. Anyone know if the flasher might be able to power the shaker using the Pinball Life board?

    The flasher doesn't power the shaker at all. Instead it's transistor grounds the flasher and the shaker. You hook the brown wire to the transistor that handles that flasher or the ground flasher wire. I'm not sure if the flashing using this method is going to be enough to get satisfying shaking. Flashers may be too fast.

    #11 9 years ago

    Its pretty awesome to see you guys build your own. I was going to do it too, but then when I saw the Cointaker Red Tremor at the Allentown show for $99, how could I resist
    For those of you thinking of picking one up, I would call Cointaker and ask if they will be selling them at the New England Pin Fest in July. That price is a show special.

    1 week later
    #12 9 years ago
    Quoted from markmon:

    The flasher doesn't power the shaker at all. Instead it's transistor grounds the flasher and the shaker. You hook the brown wire to the transistor that handles that flasher or the ground flasher wire. I'm not sure if the flashing using this method is going to be enough to get satisfying shaking. Flashers may be too fast.

    Thanks for the feedback. Almost done shopping a No Fear I picked up, Congo shaker and custom topper after that?

    #13 9 years ago
    Quoted from Jasontaps:

    Its pretty awesome to see you guys build your own. I was going to do it too, but then when I saw the Cointaker Red Tremor at the Allentown show for $99, how could I resist
    For those of you thinking of picking one up, I would call Cointaker and ask if they will be selling them at the New England Pin Fest in July. That price is a show special.

    Got my Coin Taker Red also but not at that super price you did!! Still not bad at 149.00 from their site.
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    Quoted from waldo34:

    Love the shaker in Star Trek. I have had one in it before but i moved it to my Luci. Have not updated to the latest code, that's up next.
    Thanks for the tip on the ELK-924 relay board. Found a post on using it, looks like it's time for me to do some research as my quick look at the post kind of confused me.
    https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/installing-a-stern-shaker-motor-in-a-williams-bally-game-dr-who

    Sorry Waldo34 if I confused you on my shaker motor integration using the ELK relay. I tend to get over technical sometimes...cant help it

    1 week later
    #14 9 years ago

    New shaker motor mount completed, now I'm just waiting for the connector to show up. I'm calling it the Princess Leia since the PVC end caps look like huge ear muffs, even though it looks giant, the foot print is the same as my Data East plastic cover.
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    #15 9 years ago
    Quoted from PTHermes:

    New shaker motor mount completed, now I'm just waiting for the connector to show up. I'm calling it the Princess Leia since the PVC end caps look like huge ear muffs, even though it looks giant, the foot print is the same as my Data East plastic cover.
    20150525_155553.jpg (Click image to enlarge)20150525_161815.jpg (Click image to enlarge)

    Cool, love the Princess Leia look.

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