(Topic ID: 212100)
Linked Games
Twilight Zone
Bally, 1993
Topic Gallery
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider High_End_Pins.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Matthews, NC
I need to go no further right now than to start prepping the new cabinet for refinishing.
When a cabinet is this stained inside and rough on the outside a replacement is the best solution.
Spots like these can be fixed easily enough but they won’t be as good as new structurally.
The front is loose etc. Nothing wrong with fixing the cabinet on a budget or such but definitely not ideal.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgNew isn’t actually easier it is just better overall for the end result.
It will still require filling surface perfecting and refinishing just like the old one but the drilling,fitting and lack of all the old parts locations makes it a bit like dealing with a playfield that is not drilled or dimpled but regardless I prefer the blank canvas approach.
First I meticulously inspect and feel every inch of the cabinet and head looking for imperfections in the wood or voids
I mark them in pencil.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgThe head is tackled first in this step it is the more time consuming item.
Face and nail holes are wiped with filler.
Filler sets quickly this time of the year and getting sloppy with it will only make more work so while it doesn’t look like it is wiped smooth it is actually wiped very precisely so that only the face itself is being filled and areas of concern.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgMy preference for the final finish sanding of the face filler is a nice straight section of 1/4 round wrap tightly in sandpaper.
It fits in corners tight but the rounded sections helps eliminate the possibility of trenching adjacent areas in a a way a true square block would and it provides a nice straight edge that is the same size as the face surface.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgHead is done and ready to prime.
When sanding I am looking to get to a point where I am close to the grain once again but not quite.
This tells me I have filled the areas and smoothed them but have not simply mounded filler in there.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from Arcade:How do you still have fingerprints with that much hand sanding and no protection?
Clearly these hands have never done a days hard work 
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgReady to prime the cabinet.
This is the material bill for just the filler primer and tape.
Easy to spend over $200 just priming the Cabinet even with favorable pricing not even thinking about sand paper,razor blades,electricity,equipment etc.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from pintechev:You work so efficiently. You must have a great staff that helps you be so efficient
I have the best staff money can buy. None
Although I will say anyone that makes a product or provides a service as part of this process is a silent contributor.
With just a quick light pass over the lower cabinet side I can help highlight the benefits and importance of the guidecoat.
If the primer were just in its natural state I would be sanding blind in essence.
The contrast of The guidecoat makes the highs and lows of the surface easily identifiable and will be my guide to properly sanding the cabinet nice and straight. Hence the term guidecoat.
Nice new wood still is not straight it has ripples and grain.
Few would spot either easily but if you know what you are looking at or for it is bothersome.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from TheFamilyArcade:Congrats on the anniversary and HEP restore!
I mentioned this to my wife today. Today’s our 23rd. She’s been a supportive pinball wife but when I suggested HEP to celebrate our 25th she said ‘I don’t think that’s happening”.
Happy anniversary anyway
Now I have the future cabinet in order and curing I can focus on the playfield.
The existing playfield looks ok at a glance I could work with it
Definitely have seen and done worse.
The highlights would be the typical stuff. Ground in dirt,ball drop damage, insert bordering a little vertical cracking here and there.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgIt has been drilled for a third magnet and there is some cracking around the original magnet below that.
The most troubling thing without full teardown at a glance is the mini playfield.
That is cracked to a point that it really is not worth salvaging because the inserts themselves are affected as well.
When they plank like this and then the dirt gets ground in it really equals the following process
Level surface then close to total repaint.
The circles,the lettering the gradients in the pyramid could easily burn many hours of time and material and the end result would still not be true perfection.
That is a process I don’t mind doing when there are no other alternatives but I save it for those situations as well.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage.jpgWhat I will do in this case since the game is already been upgraded to the third magnet including the ball guides is utilize a true factory third magnet playfield.
I have done many TZs over the years many different ways but knowing how special this game and process is to the owner I feel comfortable gifting a more appropriate spare set to the cause.
It will need a level of restoration on par with the original in the game but it is more ideal for several reasons which I will highlight.
On a true factory third magnet game we have the following.
A natural wood border that is purposely offset.
image (resized).jpg
A true pocket for the magnet assembly
image (resized).jpg
Green color on the insert surrounds leading to the main ramp.
image (resized).jpg
A more gradient heavy grayer door panel. image (resized).jpg
Green lock insert.
image (resized).jpg
Sticker on the spiral although I will eliminate that during the rework because not all highlights are good just technical.
image (resized).jpg
One other advantage besides building a more technically and historically correct game is it will allow the playfield restoration process to be done independently of the teardown and parts reconditioning which means I can more thoroughly address both without impact.
Playfield set is cleaned with two separate cleaners.
One is water based and removes any organic or natural occurring dirts or contaminants that are water based.
The other is solvent based and removes what the eater based cleaner cannot which would be oil and solvent based contamination’s. C073F395-9B6E-4059-9B87-E904577A0340 (resized).jpeg
Playfield is as clean as it can get from this method so other methods will be used to take care of anything remaining.
image (resized).jpg
Now I will clean the holes and do an initial sanding on the backside
When things like wax are running down into the holes it is ugly sure but it also creates a potential for adhesion failure. image (resized).jpg
I will run through each hole with a steel round brush chucked up in a drill.
image (resized).jpg
I am going to scuff and base all this trim in a TZ appropriate blackend pearl base that is reminiscent of the red/burgundy burst behind the lettering
It looks close to black but when in the proper light it shows the effect.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from Yelobird:I will go on record and say this custom project and transaction has been the Smoothest and easiest I have Ever done in pinball. Working with HEP from start to finish has been flawless. Professional communication, spot on detail, and a Truly great guy to seal the deal. I have always been apprehensive with transactions like this as I often get the short end of the stick but working with Chris is impressive beyond words honestly. He clearly Knows what to do but he is so outgoing to please and consider your needs. Calls/texts me with progress and updates but is always considerate of our not so artistic recommendations. We are So impressed not only by what he does but the heart he puts into his creation. Yes its a business but it is supported by his love of the art which is really impressive and very evident. This really was a scary decision to make but HEP has made this the most comfortable decision we have ever made without question. We will be Honored to display this piece as our anniversary milestone and love of pinball. Already have a tape outline in the dining room (wife approved) for her arrival home. This will be our Picasso on display for anyone to view. Thanks again for what you do!
Thank you. It is hard not to connect with the passion some people have for these games and try my hardest to realize the vision they have.
Quoted from AUKraut:Oh good grief.......just that cabinet is a work of art!! Great job Chris!!!!
Question: Do you use any adhesive promoter on the cabinet before applying the artwork decals?? You see so many others redecaled cabinets where wrinkling occurs when the legs are installed, so I wonder what you do to prevent that.
I found through much experience that there is an ideal window of time to apply the decals.
If done within a day or two of painting they tend to really bond well to the surface. That is because as the paint draws in and continues to cure the decal joins it. Much of this is based on individual products and processes so results can vary but that is what works best for me.
As far as wrinkling goes there are numerous protections put in place to guard against it and that is really important.
It isn’t that decals are flawed it is more that it will naturally be the weakest link between a metal and wood sandwich so you have take precautions during the process to not only avoid any pitfalls during the build but to bulletproof long after knowing future owners might not be as careful during the set up or moving process.
Future cabinet can sit to the side now and teardown of the game as well as reconditioning of the parts can start. image (resized).jpg
I will start in the head.
image (resized).jpg
Translite looks to be new.
image (resized).jpg
Lamp panel is interesting.
image (resized).jpg
Speaker magnet did a good job of keeping the hook bracket from going too far image (resized).jpg
Boards dirty,wiring all over the place etc.Has LED OCD already installed along with colordmdimage (resized).jpg
Panel plastic is washed.
92776D89-EE98-43B0-B2E5-B83556861C71 (resized).jpeg
Wooden panel is cleaned and repainted front and back in gloss black so the grills will look nice
C1CD8CAB-9F2D-4C2F-9982-BE8F44F6034E (resized).jpeg
8B4D9276-14C9-4D8E-8E26-3DDE7A74544F (resized).jpeg
The H channel is also refinished in gloss black. B35720E4-A034-4FF0-ADAC-354D0E4B9D30 (resized).jpeg
While the paint dries I polish the plastic panel. BF109E3A-B300-4F88-BE1A-90A85F8EE37B (resized).jpeg
3DC3D7B2-028B-47B6-B84E-EFEC9757FBEE (resized).jpeg
Now I can reassemble the panel.
I use a peice of wax paper to keep from printing or marking anything after the painting and polishing. 8C453F65-2EBF-470F-8E8B-FEFAC251F5CE (resized).jpeg
Carpet tape is used to reattach the plastic panel. It is very sticky but paper thin so it is perfect for the task.
The panel is placed and it polished up nicely.
FD276116-E80F-4DEC-90F8-51E86671EC17 (resized).jpeg
A80463A8-B7F3-4FC4-9A46-17B963D14319 (resized).jpeg
242E5E42-5DFD-4489-AEED-753E7CC70DB4 (resized).jpeg
The hooks will be swapped out for nickel plated version image (resized).jpg
All screws are replaced or polished. image (resized).jpg
The portion of this type of speaker system wiring that runs down to the subwoofer has been placed on a plug so the panel can easily be placed or removed in the future without opening the game all the way up and disconnecting it at the sub image (resized).jpg
The wiring is run through aclosed loom so it cannot be easily strained. image (resized).jpg
Panel is finished.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgRebuilding with new labels
The blinker sockets have been previously swapped but I am going to swap them back because while I understand and have made the change many times from the original 545 to 455s these days with LEDs primarily used I prefer to carry one bulb style on the panel when possible.
That meaning all sockets will be and remain the 555 style sockets
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from FlippyD:Did the client ask for PinSound? Would seem like a no brainer to add that to a game of this prestige. With a PinSound board you can use the original uncompressed DCS audio instead of the scratchy sounding factory audio.
No but I tend to shy away from component board changes because I like the ability to easily diagnose and satellite service the games.
When new things like that are put into the mix regardless of how cool they are it can create issues I am unfamiliar with and limit my ability to easily support the game into the future.
Quoted from zr11990:Could I get this done to mine for about $3000 ?
Definitely not here.
With a new cabinet etc doubtful even if you did it yourself.
Panel rebuilt
All wiring is new.
I couldn’t take the mix of the old stained wire and the new.
The harness pigtail is extended now as well. They can run tight sometimes. No longer a concern.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgPulling the boards next.
I try not to clean them by washing unless absolutely necessary and I am pretty sure these will fall into that category.
Some will be just exchanged into inventory and swapped with previously serviced units and those that are exchanged will be serviced and put back into inventory to replace them.
image (resized).jpgBoards removed image (resized).jpg
CPU has the typical battery corrosion.
image (resized).jpg
Some previous repairs as well. image (resized).jpg
Dot controller has the expected HV burn.
image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
Driver has some previous repairs
Big cap
image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
Lots of jumpers in the GI possibly bypassing the fuses is my guess at a glance.
image (resized).jpg
Quoted from Nepi23:It means "balls" and "flipperkugeln" = "pinballs" Have a look e.g. here - http://www.pinball.center/de/shop/flipperteile/flipper-kugeln/1660/flipperkugel-27mm-standard
What does this mean?
image (resized).jpgPanel is then watersanded and considered good enough given its location,purpose and what will actually show once reassembled.
I could turn it into a mirror but I prefer to use my time a little more wisely by using that spared time on things that are more important to the restoration.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgWorking towards harvesting all the parts from the game that I will need to build up the new cabinet.
There are lots of mods and creative wiring
As bad as it looks I will be able to easily clean it up tomorrow n terms of mod wiring
It needs various 12 volt taps and I will build those into the harnesses where needed and eliminate much of this.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgOn TZ the buy in button wiring really runs short so I will address that too just noting it as I pull the cabinet wiring.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgPaint work today
The playfield is ready to sand and repair/repaint. image (resized).jpg
I am also going to dial the trim color in a bit more.
A black with blue sparkle was requested and tried but something just doesn’t mesh there when placed.
EE815289-CFB7-451B-B821-5F8E6B0775C3 (resized).jpeg
I think the real issue is that both the replacement and original cabinet are are burgundy based and as a result I need to move towards that image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Still will look black at face value but in the light it will be a more appropriate match.
B31E5CE8-4A24-4F6A-9CF1-34D22056464A (resized).jpeg
7EA5DC3E-586D-4FAC-93D3-305C0A2EE9AE (resized).jpeg
Will do a door for the game this time around also.
The game has a replacement entropy door but I prefer the glossier happ door on TZ builds.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgPlayfield sanded. Catching some minor chips here and there
Most just minor chip outs from the removal of the jet bumper nails.
Common occurrence even if well versed on TZ playfields.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgPlayfield is cleaned and ready to repaint as needed.
First I will freshen the natural wood up.
This step will disguise the ground in dirt and bulb burn as well as address the repairs that were needed in those areas.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgWood tones are sprayed.
Natural look of the grain is still there but it becomes a bit more muted as the areas are all blended together.
Shooter lanes still look natural but the ground in dirt and knot issues are better mask but not entirely covered by design.
Unmasked.
The tones are more heavily applied in the areas that were badly burned because I know they will be covered by plastics but I still want to have a nice consistent looking playfield overall and a little heavier wood shade looks better than burns.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from spfxted:I don't know what you're doing, but I'm surely enjoying the magic....
Me either but it looks promising 
Quoted from No_Skill:Would you mind sharing which adhesion promoter you use? I'd like to find something comparable locally.
Thank you for taking the time to update us with the progress on these rebuilds. It's really cool to be able to follow along.
I like Cromax 222s for everyday substrates but if doing plastic you will need a different process.
I highlighted that in a different thread though.
Quoted from Yelobird:Yes and Thankfully he works with his pants on! lol
I have probably done a couple things around here late at night in my underwear.
Usually not the painting or soldering though 
Back to teardown. It gets to a point where one game starts occupying two spots so my next goal is to shrink the footprint.
image (resized).jpg
Tearing down the topside is what will enable me to pull the playfield out of the cabinet easiest but there are just so many extra wires and mods that it means I need to undo those things first.
As removed the are going to be separated from the factory parts.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpgDave reports various tech issues with the game one being lamp shorts.
While tearing down I see some potential causes. Just a small drop of solder here or there can turn into vary hard problem to find.
Not to say it is this specifically but it is a good example of what can be lurking within the game.
image (resized).jpgHarnesses have been removed and separated for cleaning.
The amount of rewiring and reconditioning on this particular game is going to be above and beyond the norm even for here.
As a result much is just cut free knowing that several extra hours of soldering will be needed anyway so the jet bumper switches,sling switches,fixed subway switches will be clipped for better cleaning etc.
1C960C33-BD34-46F2-8F4A-3F2CFBDF09F9 (resized).jpeg446979A6-52AC-40B6-8D18-049A57B943D2 (resized).jpegD7F46D05-B587-465D-AA57-D804E34882A1 (resized).jpegF5C967D6-398F-4EB6-B290-3485D8BF8FC6 (resized).jpegimage (resized).jpgThe harnesses separated and thoroughly cleaned one at a time.
A7EBF0AE-15B8-447E-BDA1-2B0299AC3594 (resized).jpeg42F755E3-1D8B-41A3-A81F-5C05C6512955 (resized).jpeg6834960E-656E-4D62-93C8-19362D286BE8 (resized).jpeg832890C2-E601-4BF1-943F-E89852540BBD (resized).jpeg
It is little things at times that dictate parts replacement
This targets for example are all rusted so replacing will be the best way to deal with that.
It will add a bit of labor and the cost of the targets themselves so it is another case where new everything isn’t so much easier it is just better at times.
94B52D21-3556-418D-976A-854DCAA7FBF3 (resized).jpeg
As I remove parts it helps highlight condition further.
Rust corrosion,incorrect parts and such are a consistent problem on this one head to toe.
The large black spacer and screw have been used to replace a metal standoff
The old style facet post is in place of a different style stand off. Pretty much every screw or nut that comes off goes in the trash. No tumbling or polishing can fix them when they get to that point.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from xeneize:high_end_pins Those drawers full of nickel plated brackets/housings are RIDICULOUS (and awesome)!
Comet loves my LED drawer.
Hopefully they get some bulk blue 44 flexes in soon. Getting low.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgI don’t like to wash coils unless it is a must.
They can take a long time to fully dry
What I really want to do is clean the plastic portion so I submerge that part only in a cleaning solution after desoldering the tabs open.
21CB2C0B-F68F-4690-B021-D9B4735FD432 (resized).jpeg876EDFFB-2B08-4361-9457-1B41CB655ED8 (resized).jpeg932B8003-F89C-4163-AC0E-D31E0B83FBC9 (resized).jpegWhile they soak the metal hardware that will be reused is cleaned in the ultrasonic.
1819F179-6023-4BC8-8334-D9750519CE11 (resized).jpeg
After it comes out it is placed in acetone because it dries and evaporates much quicker than water and catches any solvent based dirt the ultrasonic might have missed.
F7EC5E27-36EF-425A-9A92-89C452D98525 (resized).jpegOnce the coil is labeled I figure out which assembly it will be.
430DC118-8150-4DA0-9A04-FFEE9DE5A54D (resized).jpeg
In this case it will be the lower jet bumper.
According to the manual it’s common wire is Violet/orange and drive wire is Brown/yellow.
2A2AC2F3-62A5-4CE3-9FF2-2DA9119B1F41 (resized).jpeg
06DB1675-0707-4938-A0FD-12854D127776 (resized).jpeg
I then pull those that combination from my wire stock
65B6FB7D-88B7-48E0-9443-EE9B17423C37 (resized).jpegBE8D1CF3-F33E-4B2D-9355-6318B3FE69B7 (resized).jpeg
Then build the assembly and wire it accordingly and place it on a plug for easy servicing throughout the rest of the games life.
07275EBD-E1F9-446D-B357-2F4BA091BE63 (resized).jpeg
35C2B4E3-C239-4E5E-90F0-E9D328E02B7D (resized).jpeg
This will be the process for all coil assemblies and in the end each one will not only look nice but will be easily identified and easy to remove if needed in the future.
Playfield is almost stripped completely underneath.
I unearthed this little discovery.
Can’t remember off hand if these are available or not. If not will fix it up as well as possible. Still functional no doubt but ugly and melted.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from Yelobird:At the end of this project I Fear #HEP will hate us for taking on this project.... I understand this game by most standards was not worthy of Chris's talent or time but he accepted our personal history of this machine and respectfully overlooks the irrationality of this restoration and owner to capture a small memory of someone we loved and lost. We will forever remember this journey and the return home unveil/unbox will be celebrated with the son he left behind to soon in life. Yes, my uncle was Extremely frugal and MacGyver with his repairs as he did the best with what he had/found to keep us playing.... This restoration for us will finalize what he always wished this game could be even if the only original part left is the slot machine we hand made. The only justification for this restoration is a memory of someone special to me and #HEP was the only one I thought could respect that goofy wish. Sorry again a thousand times for the extreme challenge and thank you for excepting it for us!
The Mod Couple
FYI, Now you made me feel like a total dink. lol I was the one that ordered the last 200 blue flex bulbs for Houdini mods from Comet. My bad.....
No concerns on my end.
This game is exactly what I am here for and I have seen and done worse. Love the backstory on it.
Much of what I run into is the same stuff I have seen on countless other creatively maintained games.
This is a great opportunity to take something in below average condition and turn it into something spectacular.
Now for final evaluation before I move my old reference point out to double check.
The only difference at this point is that the old cabinet is a later run repurposed IJ cab and the new cabinet is built off the the true TZ cabinet platform / sample.
image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
That difference is simple that the power switch cut out is in the correct spot for a stand up power box
image (resized).jpgthe old one being IJ based is built to accommodate
either the stand up or lay down version.
I will add the stand off later during the build
image (resized).jpg
Flippers are torndown and evaluated.
573DCA13-A415-41ED-A6E8-FCB5E5E23538 (resized).jpeg
Mixed bag there. Mostly junk including a couple brackets.
0E12EE77-0D3F-4A41-AF99-4D83C04AC926 (resized).jpeg
3989E52D-3924-48F0-8CAA-9CAF979A8E45 (resized).jpeg
Broken down. Trash separated. C425C4CC-672F-4254-8F60-AFB569BC9C70 (resized).jpeg16A7C9AF-6729-43AB-91B9-55CD8B606965 (resized).jpeg
Then I turn my attention for few minutes to the backboard.
It has an older decal on there which is not really bad but has faded and has some dirt trapped below the surface
85BB3331-E379-470B-B249-6466118EC5C7 (resized).jpeg
06F28513-1AF3-4966-8FFB-3BFDA3B1E7F5 (resized).jpeg
Removal may not be the best way to approach it because it could take wood grain up with it and honestly it will make for a nice base to install the new decal on.
The decal is watersanded. This helps prep and levels the surface. 73793F2E-6BA5-4A83-8846-51448D775B91 (resized).jpeg
Then it is cleaned with alcohol to remove oils and reactivate the surface.
EE2CDCA3-BFA4-4380-8EC4-E66066D8C471 (resized).jpeg
Ready to decal.
C52517A1-4D26-4683-9F87-F69411323A53 (resized).jpeg
New decal applied. After it sets a bit I will finish the edges. 4F203AAE-F032-42AD-8E7F-1E82FAA5FDF8 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from pintechev:You’re basically almost done.
Not quite
Still have lots of parts to work through but some of the major things are now in place or good order.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgReady to deal with the magnets now.
We will start at the magnet drawer.
image (resized).jpg
The existing magnets,cores and brackets are serviceable with the exception of the previously added magnet and bracket. That won’t work as well as the factory set up on an original 3 magnet playfield. image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpgCore turned with course paper.
image (resized).jpg
Looks factory machined.
Next turn on finer paper.
image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
Then turn on red scotch brite. image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
Looks great but will rust eventually unless so it gets turned once more in metal polish/protectant.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Breaking down the brackets in a vice they can be very stubborn
image (resized).jpg
Opposing tension to break the bind. image (resized).jpg
It is the thread locking sealer that both helps keep the core from walking in use but also makes it tough to turn without damaging at teardown.
Once exposed and chipped off things get easier. image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
Quoted from scottslash:This is truly amazing work, and I love the skill involved. Wow!
I can't help but be reminded of a "joke" my dad told me when I was young.
Take from it what you will....
He was holding an axe and said:
"THIS is the axe that George Washington used to cut down the cherry tree. Really! Well, the head's been replaced twice and the handle 4 times, but this is the axe!"
No, it's not the same as this restoration. It's more of a remembrance of my dad -- who made me think about things.
That machine is gonna be a beautiful piece of history and truly a work of art! Thanks for sharing the process.
Lol!
I get that.
Speaking of which.
What about a George Washington axe or teeth mod for TZ?
About the only one not done yet.
Going through some other odds and ends.
Sling switches are a common cause of shorts because they are tightly cramped between the mechs by design.
90A3C369-B8AF-4444-B0A7-1E73DBF679DF (resized).jpeg
The also have flimsy blades that easily bend and touch each other.
image (resized).jpg
If the wires run tight that can further stress those flimsy blades.
The wires can also easily break the tabs of the blades and is thin
5C98FBEB-609D-4B74-823B-9561278FC05A (resized).jpegF18E3B2E-5A3B-47A5-ABBF-57C1BFDD0152 (resized).jpeg
The first thing I like to do is use a thicker wire to join the pair. 309404F7-9165-4022-BA00-54FFCCF6BCB4 (resized).jpeg1A136BFD-3913-496D-9594-EC8A1D8439FD (resized).jpeg
Next clear tubing is placed on one leg to insure that they cannot touch each other and make a false connection(a short)
D5EA9871-F638-4BF4-992B-0C24D5D576AD (resized).jpeg
Now I want to make these switches location specific.
The manual shows the left to be switch 34 and the right to be 354F5BD234-7B3A-459F-867E-68F7A7DBF477 (resized).jpeg
These will be the color call outs
3 means column 3 which equals Green/orange EF645115-204D-4989-88DE-51C9144652EE (resized).jpeg
4 means row 4 which is White/yellow
FD8330BA-8383-4797-B72A-2938176E5249 (resized).jpeg
When they intersect that creates switch 34 the left slingshot
This will be the wiring combo needed to make this sling spare left side specific. 4063592D-5BBF-4BC0-91D4-6C17E16C070C (resized).jpeg
F4F2EE03-E75A-40E7-B0FE-21F0F3000DBF (resized).jpegThe sling switches are then wired into sub assemblies that are color correct for the locations with protections in place and on plugs for easy isolation or removal if ever needed. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
The arms are also rebuilt with new parts where needed.
407931CD-495E-4BA6-84EB-203025E7F25B (resized).jpeg3DBC42E8-ACEB-44A9-9BEF-189868F83A88 (resized).jpeg3829E9BB-3FB8-43B0-B4EB-322E19CAAC30 (resized).jpegD9F5429D-77F9-4C65-90F4-B42E8B9CAC8E (resized).jpeg
Trim was shot and cleared with the final stage of color.
image (resized).jpg
The stages had to be separated a few times to finally get the very subtle effect I was after.
Finally got it. In order to pull that off there will be right and left specific legs because the front of the cabinet lends itself more to the blue side while the sides a bit more towards a burgundy
That being the case only opposing sides of the legs were finished of with the red pearls.
The other is the candied blue over the previous dark cherry pearl finish.
Using one leg as an example.
This side of the leg is the blue based that will work most ideal on the front or back of the cabinet where it is simply black.
image (resized).jpg
This side will work best on the sides of the cabinet where it is more red based.
The difference is the inclusion of the red pearls as they are transparently sprayed over the previous bases.
image (resized).jpg
It is a lot of work for an effect that won’t jump right out at you but you know it is there when it catches your eyes right.
The biggest challenge was getting it dark enough that it still looks black at a glance and not glittery.
image (resized).jpg
Now for the apron.
Has a decal to remove on the top. Hopefully it isn’t masking anything like scratches or a hole although that would show from underneath just giving an idea of what I have seen under stickers before. 89AF5D05-D65B-46C3-875E-07FFEED58505 (resized).jpegE97377EF-67B3-4315-99B7-F41DDF1CD54B (resized).jpeg
Auto fire cover is a bit rough in terms of wiring and cosmetics. B8D94EFA-647A-4B90-A51C-7A741815884D (resized).jpeg
Parts are removed along with decals. No real surprises so that is nice. 074028E7-80B9-4356-8FEB-802F880A7BEB (resized).jpeg
There are some nicks and rust bubbles in a few spots.
46D4DCCB-78A6-4191-93FF-BC044B3A8945 (resized).jpeg4D07AF79-387E-4E54-A931-014A8F47ADFE (resized).jpeg8AEEF820-D816-4BA3-889D-31D76AF051B2 (resized).jpegC3BAA128-53DF-4575-8EC6-6D049C57BAC4 (resized).jpegF8921B1F-4A80-46A5-A06D-CD979598B078 (resized).jpegApron is cleaned.
Then watersanded and prepped for refinishing. 0E260160-A9EC-40BE-90A6-F4D0DF727BB2 (resized).jpeg49A6D98A-6A9D-4C17-8082-24CB86D46A76 (resized).jpeg54F498D4-FF6C-4578-8E8D-7243414C3FC1 (resized).jpeg5D1A883E-A5B5-49DF-8849-01C9E2DA0232 (resized).jpegA6EE2CEE-C0BD-47B1-ADCE-F5FFAC800D8A (resized).jpegD030F070-8E5B-42C9-B0CA-E11488B60EAB (resized).jpeg55E3A32B-7278-4836-9337-99BF4C541952 (resized).jpeg
After that I for an added touch to bring it in colorwise with the lockbar that will rest above it I gave it s light spray of the final over thinned pearl blue used on the final pass of the trim. 2E3C4D65-AC4E-435F-A9CB-2AB262F147E1 (resized).jpeg13377557-B573-4F94-8652-55236A3C75A0 (resized).jpeg1760DC64-0B29-4BBD-91E3-D5864F96147C (resized).jpeg5779DF59-994B-4BE9-899E-55EBFB033A88 (resized).jpegA03DD54C-3C3C-4E98-82B7-AA73EA962E3C (resized).jpegA8A848B7-7AE4-46C0-B854-F10CB46287F9 (resized).jpeg
5D7ED3E4-0876-4245-8FA4-2FF3505D7030 (resized).jpegThen I went over the mini once more to tie it in a little more.
This was done with the same effect but a little different because the playfield Black is a truer black than the apron so it needs to be darker so it won’t look “milky”.
Sanded
B7A20729-B59B-4033-9E16-7EECFA2A82DE (resized).jpeg
Masked based and unmasked.
AFA75EF4-74D7-4CD5-A78A-6401192A9061 (resized).jpegD3AD5B37-B90C-431F-9223-250AA9BC2724 (resized).jpeg
The mini is then cleared again.
Flash is used to show the difference in lighting effect
It is subtle but should look nice without being over the top when built and installed. . E12ABB6B-AF21-4E27-8FA9-42FC527F14A0 (resized).jpeg585B73C5-5F32-47A1-B09B-C735B30F4D82 (resized).jpeg0CEC6EAF-59CE-4486-B0C5-0439316000D4 (resized).jpeg44DCF58E-F12D-4E0E-98D0-36FAF9971A89 (resized).jpeg
Working through the remaining parts so reassembly will go quickly and easily.
Need to make some buttons up.
The start button is easy white and black but the buy in is a little tougher to match up on TZ plus the harness runs short.
3781114F-46ED-44DE-8839-BE343A98A1A9 (resized).jpeg
I paint a button insert to match the surrounding art then use a clear lens.
F6399FCF-E0DE-41D5-A0D5-4D73185379A8 (resized).jpeg
A color correct extended harness is then built up for it on a new switch/lamp assembly.
D2D41F12-DBF9-4394-B70B-8062484108EE (resized).jpeg88D1D0AA-FC6F-4362-A415-CA4C0FF922C9 (resized).jpegAA8B2E5C-D7F8-4F77-98A5-063539EAE538 (resized).jpeg
Now for that melted subway
74FE0962-3D28-4030-90E3-5DD89D96CAAC (resized).jpeg
2D50FEF1-F040-44C0-8670-D36A6ADE686F (resized).jpeg
I cut away the warped sections because the future repair must be flat and easily passed over by the ball.
C5F3FFCB-42A2-4B9A-8EFA-4A8C9210B9E5 (resized).jpeg8F79CDB5-DF5F-49D9-9975-5713E804C929 (resized).jpeg
I then find something that fills the space well and lines up with what I want to do. Has to look natural to pinball.
I pick an old ramp entrance guide set and prep the fit to be sandwich riveted 77786285-FD8A-4691-88C4-A2E333B0A527 (resized).jpegB7EB9D40-F5C1-4F7B-9163-E4CC5EEEC3FE (resized).jpeg
Once the prep is done it is washed
B7AC9C25-268C-4678-91E1-6085A6B7B98C (resized).jpegNext I double check my rivet placement. I need the ball to clear it.
Would probably be fine even if the ball hits the rivets in this underside location but most ideal is that it doesn’t.
By design the center of the ball can ride the edges without touching the rivets.
CD1915A1-2566-4A7A-B5B6-6132A10CB5C4 (resized).jpeg
Next I wire each switch up independently color correct of course. 31B2DCBD-DF43-4369-AB00-A95D803D6492 (resized).jpeg
Flame polished and ready to go. This will most likely not be seen at all once installed but an effort was made to make it as nice as possible. 09699F84-8569-4F81-B438-272783B695A6 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from pintechev:Chris: why not replace the ramp?
Unavailable and honestly that is fine for this situation being that the ramp wasn’t actually broken,will function perfectly as repaired and remain hidden.
If it were as simple as just buying a new one though that would normally be the path taken.
Quoted from pintechev:Got it - wasn’t a judgment but more of an insight into when you chose to refurbish vs replace. Availability is certainly an important criteria
Marc
Cool. I probably should have noted the unavailability anyway.
Had no idea myself these were not available but never needed one before and I have done a lot of TZs so maybe just not commonly an issue. . Such a popular game though seems strange the trough ramp can’t be found easily
Thank you. I searched there before and it said out of stock but it showed the entire assembly.
That looks like just the bare plastic and it would be fine too.
Might grab it as a back up but no longer a must have in this case though unless it times out well. Sometimes it can take a good bit of time for parts to land here from Australia.
Working through the plastics. I will highlight the worst one for TZ and leave it at that for the plastic set in terms of how they are and will be done.
The worst one to do on TZ IMO is the gumball flasher stack.
It houses the flasher dome receptacles a GI bulb socket and is hardwired throughout 13FECEB3-A389-4D4B-AB20-647367696BFE (resized).jpeg9758D9DB-349C-402E-BB88-4D8242CE75AE (resized).jpeg
New plastic set in hand
Compared to the old yellowed plastics. BF49FB10-31F9-4BC1-94F9-9E78BE1D1A55 (resized).jpeg946AF5B0-1733-43DC-8D94-9393F2D074DF (resized).jpeg
Plastics are built one at a time with new sockets and wiring.
D75862EA-F29A-49BA-A939-3A0F83185180 (resized).jpeg
The assembly is complete and has a much longer and more versatile harness
A GI tap was added to easily access the GI for future mods0CAFCD77-07D6-4A98-A368-FD7BD1CE52BF (resized).jpeg0AD08062-3DEF-4B33-B6CF-14BE745354FB (resized).jpeg
02575E52-5A05-40F3-A23B-F68FE10CD5D7 (resized).jpegNow the ball guides
TZ has many and some are not easy to get into with tools so they must be done manually.
A87EF270-54DC-47A7-8ADD-3462043A474D (resized).jpeg91BF0BFC-DD55-47F4-ACF7-5C98E65FED8C (resized).jpeg97008A4D-BDF7-4661-A36B-56F2BB026EAA (resized).jpeg
Done
Something I just ran into while cleaning the boards that is a surprise was the clock motor board is incorrect.
E720E309-8F28-4A41-AE94-C4509A18A395 (resized).jpeg
FD4C6219-2608-4E0E-AF96-51AC212CE414 (resized).jpeg
When tearing it down I felt the board looked familiar but a bit shorter than what I am used to seeing on TZ.
The board normally is a bit longer and more rectangular.
7B8DAE93-731F-4A66-8AFC-62691256B7C5 (resized).jpeg
My initial thought was it is probably fine ,one of those situations perhaps where it provides the same function but looks a bit different. Suitable replacement type thing.
After some thought and verification I realized it was and IJ bridge board
71258816-7A59-4BFC-A3BE-EBFCE4996FC3 (resized).jpeg
Whether it is truly useable as a clock motor controller doesn’t really matter to me so I have ordered the correct board.
When noting the various issues with the game,locked on transistor things like that it is best just to put everything back correctly and work from there if needed.
Now for the gumball machine
DD69DF42-1C9D-408A-B77C-21E3CE55110E (resized).jpeg
It has some strained wires,dirty that sort of thing
27908094-B720-4D7A-87A7-B913B0E57D72 (resized).jpeg7E021645-ED7F-4476-AB22-390D0815D555 (resized).jpeg
Torndown and parts are washed
E3BB964A-1742-4418-B162-0AA34682EB29 (resized).jpegC98C1D0F-1262-4690-A977-84C0F548D27D (resized).jpeg
Will be rebuilt with a little nicer version of the gumballs and gumball lighting mod. 2A431F25-4D74-46EA-8A36-8BD3BEC76EAA (resized).jpeg
Rewired with extended wiring that gave strain and short protections in place. D546991F-06F7-4144-887C-8D9B4D459E3D (resized).jpegC829B03D-806A-471A-8D2D-251053C6177F (resized).jpegF1BD0EE7-1645-4782-BAFD-CCA03228A670 (resized).jpegBA74326D-89A4-4E5C-AAB3-4E475CA086BC (resized).jpeg
Clock torn down. 71699379-55A1-43EE-BA44-BC32EE1C0BBC (resized).jpegD0A0738D-36C9-4B1B-8E17-830796CDD5B1 (resized).jpeg
There are some rusty sockets and screws. 32E3EF2F-A205-43AF-9CD5-5AAE416A657E (resized).jpegF20C5D2A-9BB5-4DBA-A3F6-ACF5BC317673 (resized).jpeg618749D6-8068-40E6-92D6-95FAB8737956 (resized).jpeg
The game came in with the piano mod.
I am ok with that but it is not really a mod that can be done nicely as delivered.
You are just supposed to shove the bulb sockets in the holes and hope they stay put or don’t touch.
It also makes it harder to remove and install the clock itself.
What I do in this case is rivet new three leg 44 sockets in place and run the diodes really tight BA1AA948-BB29-4ECB-8B1C-985037760484 (resized).jpeg1E755C89-BD78-4046-A018-A799C10B10C9 (resized).jpeg
It is a cleaner more durable mod now and I will touch the rivets up with a similar paint to hide them if needed although I am not sure they will even be visible once placed. 4C9E9CB9-64B3-4CB2-982F-582FE7BE6058 (resized).jpeg8FF0D819-6096-43AC-8F28-D176EC205728 (resized).jpeg
Now to sand and polish everything so I can start the final assembly of the game.
Starting with the hinges and rails as an example I want to eliminate or minimize any minor specs of dust in the final finish.
This is where and why I prefer basecoat clearcoat as a final finish over powdercoat.
It can be fine tuned a bit more but the powder is needed for the best possible surface to start with.
I am looking to make the surface uniform as well.
Minor specs are pointed out. B82E6BF6-60F3-4E94-969E-E54BAE8F85BE (resized).jpeg3D1FFE85-5D5E-4584-AAF0-E22521FB8356 (resized).jpeg
The surfaces are sanded to eliminate them. 20FA9E08-0E5D-42B2-BED7-1B01941A3768 (resized).jpegBD85BAF9-3C9B-4F18-B6CC-C016CA20139C (resized).jpeg
This is done on all trim and then it is carefully fastened down on a perfectly clean surface so I won’t pick up any in the buffing pad that would scratch the surface when polishing. 6EFCBB93-A097-48D2-AAF5-219CB1933E5F (resized).jpeg
The mini is also added into the mix for efficiency. Buffing is buffing
15300F9A-DDC2-4040-9289-E2ADC4A3EDBB (resized).jpegCAA07FE6-E1D3-46C3-806D-3B5634FFCD3A (resized).jpeg
The parts are then carefully polished.
It is a group of parts to polish and it has to be done in certain directions and patterns so they don’t fly across the room or get caught by the buffer and bend.
Hopefully within these pictures you can get a sense of the results.
15572489-D55A-4C03-90BD-4DC42182AF50 (resized).jpeg302E67D5-094F-41B5-91AC-7FBB8CA066BD (resized).jpeg3520012B-7B3F-4C49-A673-63D227E08C9F (resized).jpeg5C1153FD-82AE-4AEB-AFCC-892F124E299D (resized).jpeg7AC52B1A-F6AF-4045-B078-E5CE3689ABA2 (resized).jpeg8E5D99FC-2FDC-4960-BC04-C90C4DBDE300 (resized).jpeg99B4451F-A91F-44BA-8215-93E3C087977B (resized).jpegB90F984D-3260-4E7F-A8D6-EB6777ABC280 (resized).jpegFA80F1EB-F7A4-4382-B807-22542D6A4DD3 (resized).jpegHad lots of errands to run today.
Started out with court at 9 am for guardianship of our youngest son who is disabled and recently turned 18
Then supplies and finally a call from the platers that our latest batch of parts were ready for pick up.
Yaaa!
These are the remaining ones needed for final assembly of the TZ
It is a nice standard nickel finish nothing too flashy.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgReady to build up the mini.
Old assembly. 4A301280-F2AB-4BC3-B409-48E13023BB04 (resized).jpeg
Torndown. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
I like the street lamp but think I can make it fit in a bit better with what has been done with some tweaks.
Main thing I like is the laser cut script.
Dislikes are the pop rivets. 127A541E-BCF5-4196-9303-7D8FD7AFF2B0 (resized).jpeg6350FDBB-C42F-4B7E-AFD0-8ACC03010112 (resized).jpeg2792A2D5-7175-40C0-ADBA-60D1A7CF0FC8 (resized).jpeg3D404FB2-91D6-4730-9F7E-0F45ABB12D14 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from Arcade:Nice.
Local shop or do you send them to someone like pinball plating?
Local shop.
I really try to minimize transferring valuable parts around and down time so it works well.
If I need something really showy or Pinball specific then I absolutely use Chris at Hot Rod Arcade
Quoted from LTG:Curious on the nickle plated brackets and stuff. Down the road if a pop bumper ring, pop bumper coil bracket, or common item should break. Can one of your clients buy a new one from you to keep the HEP look ?
LTG : )
Good question.
Anything generic like that I would just give them as long as I have it on hand.
If it gets into something real game specific or strange I would still help locate and have it plated again.
Luckily this has not come up but if so that is how I would handle it.
Mini is rebuilt with a few subtle touches.
Small holes are drilled and the wiring passed through in the all too commonly smashed wire locations. B90FA04D-1F57-46E5-818C-D90E756DF99F (resized).jpeg0E409B0E-B1FE-4D81-AAAE-5837235BA985 (resized).jpeg
The street lamp is rebuilt using a sparkling decals for the letter cut outs.
38743109-9F2E-406D-A3A8-FF61165051B4 (resized).jpegE8B519EF-20D6-40BD-8CF2-C262D3A9DB0E (resized).jpegEBD58D9D-0470-4537-A1CC-21060326CF5D (resized).jpegD87F3653-16BF-45A9-833F-5B043193EB51 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from tonycip:Looking great as always. but I'm surprised your not using the Twilight Zone Mini-Playfield Switch Kit TZ-MPS-KIT.
to eliminate the ugly gray rubbers that stick up and spoil the view.
I have used that set up a few times as well but unless it is specifically requested I stick with the factory covers
I think the only source for that coverless kit is GLM and not sure if they are reliably filling orders.
Quoted from PtownPin:Love the sparkle affect curious where u got the decals?
Thanks. Got it out of this drawer. Went in to get some other color filter for it and thought why not that.
I think the larger sheet is Safecracker drop target decal stock which is not what I used.
Have no idea where I got that smaller sheet from which is what I did use.
Easy peels off and can be changed if it doesn’t work once in place on the game.
image (resized).jpgHarness is roughed in place. image (resized).jpg
I will start at the end which is the jet bumper area the old rust parts will come out as the new ones go in image (resized).jpg
From there the harness will be soldered and secured as it flows towards the bottom end and exit of the playfield.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgThe quality of the soldering work is important for not only a solid connection but a nice appearance so that is a big focus during this stage of the rebuild.
New target soldered in. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Compared to old with the emphasis that they both could be made to look the same or similar up top but at this level it is just as important to have it be on par underneath. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
Now I can address the jet bumper switches.
Like the sling switches they are a common cause of shorts due to the need to squeeze the diodes,wires and blades all together in a small space.
Pictured is what happens often less the wires.
That is the blades are easily touched together and or diode smashed against the switch stack and inadvertently touches blades together that should not be.
It takes very little for this to happen. image (resized).jpg
First the spoon will be swapped for a new one that is fully enclose on the end of the circle. It is also not as brittle as the aged original. 2ACCF628-EDA2-4644-90FD-E65F100150E8 (resized).jpeg
Now the wires are pulled and re threaded through the harness so all wires required for this switch are nice and even as well as exiting the harness in the same location not randomly or sloppy.
Here is an example of how they might exit in a less than ideal way. B139B0C8-96C8-4ACC-8F76-CC626776F944 (resized).jpeg
In order to clean that up the downstream wire is removed and will be replaced with a new color correct section that will give more real estate to neatly run. CFD7B8B5-060F-404E-A0BB-D6B2BF909F08 (resized).jpeg2A9C185A-FA67-4D43-B6F7-FC3C3417720E (resized).jpeg
Jet bumper switches are then polished
3040C928-7DE4-4840-94D7-DDCB8E8875E9 (resized).jpeg
The contacts are lightly cleaned. 8CEC9139-327A-4CB8-92CC-DC3C253A44BD (resized).jpeg
The blades are gapped for maximum sensitivity without false closures.
2B903F17-EE9D-44DA-B0E0-F1C16B6129C4 (resized).jpeg
3319C032-1BCD-429D-8712-43E86046DEDC (resized).jpeg
These are all set now.
image (resized).jpgSwitch harness and subways are in place along with several coils.
Built in this order to insure that wires clear moving parts or see how to best route them.
Color coded wire in place of generics where needed.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
The best way to go about this for me is to replace all the GI sockets instead of recycling the old ones. image (resized).jpg
I do not like to color wash the games so I offer two choices of lighting schemes.
Factory looking warm or futuristic looking cool.
The Mod Couple would like the futuristic look so that means the GI will be populated with cool frosted bulbs.
This process would not be possible without a huge amount of color correct wire of course but it is truly important to go that route if the work of replacing the sockets is needed anyway.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgSo using this section as an example this would be the normal or factory configuration image (resized).jpg
This would be the violet / white and violet GI strand.
image (resized).jpg
The problem with it is there is a potential for smashed wires and once you get outside of the junction it no longer becomes obvious which leg of the socket is which is the violet the upper leg or the lower?
Is this still part of the strand or has it changed somewhere you can’t see once everything is covering it?
This is what I will be changing that will help easily answer those questions at just a glance.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgSo this is where the violet strand enters the playfield
image (resized).jpg
It then touches the sockets and loops back into the harness and feeds to this connector.
Knowing that will allow me to pretty much run that section anyway I like and just make sure my run accomplished the same thing that being tie those sockets together and terminate at the connector.
image (resized).jpgThis style socket seems to have a more common failure point than the other styles used in the era
image (resized).jpg
What happens is the socket portion just spins freely and often that is a good indicator that the socket will be troublesome or outright no good.
Unfortunately this style is not easily found new that I know of but it is easily replaced with this style. image (resized).jpg
The flex bulb is an important part of that switch to make it work well. image (resized).jpg
Feature lamp sockets now replaced in the shown section and wired color correct
image (resized).jpg
Quoted from lordloss:Pin gizmo?
Old school mod already in place also the originators of the third magnet kit.
2002-2004 I think.
Getting pretty close to done with the underside.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgThe biggest thing now left as far as the underside goes will be neatly implementing the mods.
That means no alligator clips or super long wire runs that have to go from the playfield to areas like the coin door board. image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
I will search out the correct voltages under the playfield and make correct connectors there.
Working on building and wiring up the cabinet today.
I want the wiring of the cabinet to be just as neat and thought out as the playfield wiring I tackled earlier.
The game has a lot of mods and parts in place. Some I would prefer newer or different versions of but considering there is nothing actually wrong with them I will just put a little effort in to cleaning them up in terms of wiring or appearance.
First though I cannot run wires without boards do those are swapped for serviced units.
Serviced dot controller 43615622-C644-45E6-B3E7-9DBB568B67A3 (resized).jpeg
Serviced Driver77A6A2D2-8AE9-4AD6-B6F4-A82F0D6FC9D2 (resized).jpeg
Serviced Fliptronic 2 A5FBD2E3-D5C7-4277-AFC8-D5A5B1D8E4A3 (resized).jpeg
Now we have the Aux driver
This game obviously had a couple locked on flashers and things so when looking at this board it is suspect because it drives some of these features and there have been repairs. Even though I am changing the driver I might still have locked on coils or flashers/clock issues etc if I use it as it is. If you look closely you can see the repairs. Not terrible looking but no telling if the problems were truly solved
DFB66F03-E13A-4617-8530-AF7D1AE8CB7D (resized).jpeg
4B25F592-1694-4BB9-BD70-B9A5B94334DF (resized).jpeg
I will swap this with a serviced original as well F6479571-8783-42B9-8DF8-5499C1D9DE40 (resized).jpeg
5512CC97-AA3D-4E48-B3C4-BBFFBAC04EEA (resized).jpeg
Boards are now placed AF4AC54D-A214-420D-AF13-F4CF943E2EFD (resized).jpeg
Now the speaker.
Game had a speaker upgrade but yellow is just not the ideal color for me because I like things to look good and match when and where possible.
There is nothing wrong with it though so I will break it down and dress it up a little better for this build. 0706E9D1-6557-422F-8573-78478BE1B1A5 (resized).jpeg
Remove crossover and the decals one is on top of another. 5AFD16BB-1206-457C-B745-F967F111CB7F (resized).jpeg
Scuff and mask
C890984A-8902-438E-9E3F-159ECB037177 (resized).jpeg
Etched in black. Nothing too fancy. 03811144-D76F-4C29-A488-C91D73832251 (resized).jpeg
Reassembled Cut out a coin door decal to dress it up a little bit.
00B469D5-8E01-437D-B880-F4C672E17482 (resized).jpeg
Next are the flipper buttons.
It seems simple but the game has lighted buttons and they are orange when lit.
Instead of just tossing them it makes for an interesting challenge.
How can I make them work and why toss them only to order more?
I do some initial checks and settle on a translucent red ring with a black center to best match the cabinet.
It just looks like a black button when off. 4CF733D0-8F10-4DA8-B2C3-85C0028542F3 (resized).jpeg
When powered the orange shooter was as red and it looks nice,fits the scheme and saves the mod. D5C6FAF0-3698-4B78-AD54-D9594E42A8EA (resized).jpeg
Now that I know the lighted button mod is usable I will better implement it into the build it starts out a mess. All this wire is meant to simple tap 12volts all the way in the head. Not needed but I can appreciate the plug and play aspect of it for the hobbyist.
8088D34A-6E34-4702-A41A-D667443506C4 (resized).jpeg
The button mod needs 12 volts so I will grad that as close a possible to the buttons off the coin door board. 97443A5D-0690-4BDD-8579-E86020C4F18D (resized).jpeg
The mod has a controller that I want to make easily accessible. So I use two sided tape to mount it in an easy to reach spot. 5DA7316E-4CD6-49CC-B760-7509E3B51BC4 (resized).jpeg
The board is all set now with the tap and controller neatly installed. 3B0A03B5-62C1-4B39-9495-40CC0749A417 (resized).jpeg
Now for the buttons.
I want to hide the wiring as well as possible and also protect it from tugging or shorts. DCC1F926-DD13-4E8C-920E-82E772A825FF (resized).jpeg
This is done with shrink tube and a tight fitting closed loom.
54A51ADE-5DCC-4749-973B-53F98B55CCD1 (resized).jpegPromoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider High_End_Pins.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Reply
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!
Donate to PinsideGreat to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
